Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
"Never ascribe to malicious intent that which otherwise can be attributed to simple ignorance."
Tony D's Law
I never torched anybody who didn't flash-flash-torch me first.
I would only flick my highbeams at the occasional high-beam on driver. But now that you mention it, on the same stretches of road (even though it's now 4 lanes + a full shoulder instead of two with no shoulder) there does seem to be a lot of people just barrelling along oblivious to the Highbeam Indicator on their dashboard...
-
I guess for that price the Ztherapy Carbs do make sense but seeing as these carbs have lasted this long on her, i would like to stick with the original equipment and see if i can bring them back to spec. Throwing out relatively good carbs seems like a waste.
Did you even look into the suggestion he gave you before you came up with that dismissive comment?
There is nothing you will do to 'rebuild' the SU carb running rich that costs $625.
I'd go into it, but you need to go to the Z-Therapy site and read on what their service entails. When these carbs run out of life, they run LEAN under partial load, and you richen the hell out of them to keep them running properly at partial throttle.
I do not know "Tony at LA Carb" and before I went to him, I'd consider Tony at AltZ in Huntington Beach, or any of the guys at Vincent Foreign Car Service...hell even Art at Sunrize Z Service....all of them are Z-Specialists and know about your car, your carbs, and hell they may even give you a 'free diagnosis' that comes with a pricetag that will send their kids to college too. But I doubt it, they will at least explain to you what is going on rather than throw you a line...
Oh, and the way you 'bring them back to spec' is you replace the bodies with new ones, because they wear out the bushing area in the body. Short of NEW NISSAN SU's (at the last I saw, over $2200 a set, if you could find them!) the practical alternative is Z Therapy and their bearing/rebushing service.
As a guy who doesn't know about carbs, I might suggest you don't argue the finer points in what it will take to 'restore yours to spec' with guys who DO know carbs...
-
I have to say the explanations in the FSM for the 1994 Camaro were very informative. It really opened my eyes to how sophisticated the OEM's had become in response to the OBDII requirements.
It is this architecture that the next generation of 'self tuning' aftermarket ECUs is based. They use that short term and long term fuel trim logic to reprogram the flash memory or put it in NVRAM on the chip so that the more you drive the car, the closer you get to a 'perfect' tune for that specific engine---then when a sensor fails you drive on a FAR better curve 'limp home' than the factory could EVER put together in a generic form.
The OEM gets you close, the fuel trim and it's learning routines tailor the ECU to your specific engine.
The key is the sensor failure though---you end up not toasting a cat like on the old systems because the new ECU's give a far more complete map and don't necessarily go 'rich safe' any longer.
For us, the exciting thing is the aftermarket applications. After reading the GM FSM on the Camaro in preparation for using Tunercat on my buds 94 into 74 Camaro engine swap, I decided if I had a GM I'd keep the factory ECU and simply use a utility like Tunercat to tailor the GM ECU to what I needed it to do.
The focus on 'switching' though is the key. It's a digital signal that can be interpreted (though I understand the WBO2's may be considered analog due to the 1-5VDV output) using a NBO2 you had a switched signal which is very hard to correct for with a PID loop---you tailor it to watch for the switch and then set your gain, etc to compensate and keep the fuel control out of Hysterisis. With a 1-5VDC signal porportional offset from time integral is easier to gauge as you have a larger scale, more resolution. The more resolution you have to go to your set target point, the easier it is to set up the gain and resets to precisely track quick transients.
But this is more than I want to talk about when dealing with mixture control. I just spent four days on a system with no capacitance and a machine 4X as large as it needs to be with only a 30% turndown possiblity...and was tuning it's PID lopops to respond to demand swings AND keep it under a given MW/Day power consumption figure.
I kinda fell short. The loops could not be tuned fast enough given the hardware. Back to the drawing board. REV3 coming up... And I'll be on the plane again...
-
one with 'classic car insurance'...
That is what the law says, it's not what the insurance company says, it's what insurance you have on the car.
-
How about this possibility:
You only ran the car for a little while during it's down time. You loaded up the exhaust system with condensation that now will only burn off after you make a long hard run down the highway for an exended period and get the whole exhaust system up to operating temperature. No engine repairs necessary at all.
That, or as mentioned, the modulator loaded up the intake with ATF and it has to burn off...
Either way, a long hard drive on the freeway will tell.
Remember in cold weather (which we don't get a lot of in CA) condensation will be visible in an idling car, and much worse when first started than once up to full operating temperature. This is normal...this does not mean anything is wrong or needs to be fixed.
I'm always amazed when this is not mentioned first...
-
"but sometimes people get blasted for questions only extensive searching would answer. "
Excuse me, but I need some clarification, who is 'getting blasted' in this thread? Someone asked a question, others answered it, there was clarification, and then further discussion and education on what is actually going on.
Where is the 'blasting' in the responses?
And god forbid someone 'search extensively'...
As to this comment:
"I've been a member of this forum for quite a while, and have noticed that people with "knowledge" get away with a lot more "tone" than people without "knowledge". I agree that this thread has valuable information about vehicle emissions, but really struggle with the way that it is passed down. "
If you want information, learn to be humble when asking for it, and when you get it THANK PEOPLE FOR IT! Putting on an attitude is NOT grattitude. Nobody HAS to answer anybody else's dumbarsed questions. If they do, consider yourself lucky. Some of us are easily happy without the internet and can get along just fine without ever 'sharing' what we know with someone who doesn't like the way information is presented to them FREE OF CHARGE AND ANY PAIN OR FINANCIAL OUTLAY. <edit> "Who is John Galt?"<edit>
Christ, if I was this picky about it when I was a kid, I would have gotten lugnuts and sparkplugs thrown at me and been scolded for not thinking before I asked "zuch a sthupid qvestion!"
Oh waitaminit, that DID happen to me when I asked questions where I didn't think about it first. Excuse me... did someone throw spark plugs or lugnuts at you in any of the responses?
I didn't think so...
-
Keep the HachiRokku. Give me the license plate...
You are looking at 10 years more wear, 10 years more neglect, and a totally different parts set.
Don't make it an either-or question. They are different cars, and perform different functions.
I was in Japan in the 80's when that car was new, and at that time it was a battle with the S30 for the Togue, the S30's being the dominant 'standard setter' at the time. Proven reliable and plenty of R&D to back them up in the aftermarket.
I'd not exchange one for the other.
-
I've always wanted to mount headlights pointing backwards just so I could return the compliment to those people when they're behind me.
Since my 62 VW Bus didnt have reverse lights, and in a dark bowling alley parking lot I krinked the rear corner on a Dodge tank on league night... when my original tranny took a dump and I refit the 67 box with a reverse switch, I decided 'hey, I can put real back-up lights on this thing' so on the bumper I clamped one 55W H3 driving light with a pencil beam, and one 55W H3 fog light. Worked through a relay anyway, so I figured 'if I need a light to dig myself out of a snowbank I may as well put this on a switch while I'm at it...'
Viola, exactly the same result. I would get guys with their high-beams on by backside and FOOF FOOF FOOF! Suddenly there were either low beams or they backed off far enough that it didn't bother me any more!
Vengance is mine!
That was about the time I had the Marchal 9" Super-Oscars on the front bumper with the big-watt Hellas for headlights. Back then, people would flash me because the lights were bright, but not aimed wrong or anything. Usually a flash...flash....constant high-beam at me oncoming.
When that high-beam came on full-time, I would romp on the foot switch with a vengance and feel the car slow down from the generator load of 2 130 Watt Hella High-Beams and 2 100W Marchal Super Oscars with a reflective range of something like 2 miles all coming on at once.
There was instantaneous compliance with oncoming low-beams after that little display...
Only once was it a Michigan State Police cruiser!
He was not amused... -
Bad idea to just see the world...depending on which branch you join, the only overseas you'll see is Afghanistan & the stopovers on the way to/from there...It isn't like it used to be. It took me 10 years of trying in the AF before I got to go overseas...
That was not my experience, I put all Northern Tier SAC installations on my Dream Sheet and the CBPO guys said "you want to go here? Oh, you're GOING to go to one of these!"
I got orders to Japan.
The rest is history.
<EDIT> the only guy in our two tech school classes that put an overseas assignment on his dream sheet got it: Hickam Hawaii. He sucked. If I knew I was going over anyway, I would have chosen, but all I knew was if I put 'open overseas' I was going to Inclric Turkey. I knew it. Positively! LOL
-
I must admit, my H-4 Lights.com supplied Narva bulbs went out on low beam after 15 years of driving, so being the cheapskate I am I put duct tape over the highbeam reflector region of the Autopal Reflector lens and drove on unabated until I had a chance to get him face to face and complain about his cheap bulbs. I mean really, 15 years? C'mon! These replacements should be WARRANTY!
Seriously, I duct taped the headlights when the second low-beam went out within a week of the first.
Of course that week of driving took 3 months given the time the car was parked at the LAX Parking Structure...
-
I also call to note that Nissan started different cooling systems on 'high specific output' engines in the L line consistent with 300HP for racing. This is right where Ricky is, and where Zya got his Bob Sharp parts (which block the internal water bypass to the pump suction, and put vent lines into the system...)
Ricky next time the head if off, plug the water bypass on the inside of the block---tap the hole and put a flushseal plug in there. You will see added benefit, and if you have a bypassed thermostat with those hoses, you have plenty of flow capacity to prevent pump cavitation during warmup...
-
...UNLESS....
The overall efficiency of the system has improved due to reduced steam pockets and surface effects. This was Tony's point all along.
I get giddy when someone actually reads the posts and gets the root benefit out of it.
The temperature you read at the THERMOSTAT is considerably LOWER than what is present at the back of the engine. Spot boiling at the back of the engine affects the WHOLE engine and can lead to 'overheating'...
One thing to note is that on Jeff's engine we have done CONSIDERABLY MORE than what you can see externally to get it to the point that 170 at the thermostat housing is the same as 170 at the 4/5/6 CHT position.
If you have not done our 'internal mods' likely you will have higher temperatures at the CHT reading point (KTM mentioned this in the post earlier.) You may not notice it during regular driving or even 10 laps (KTM says the mods to the head reduced the temperature, but this wasn't held at 450HP for 5 minutes straight, either...)
There are other things to do to the engine to improve coolant flow through the block and head that reward you with consistent temperatures, which happen to be lower. I would say with the modifications Jeff and I have done I could now run a 190 degree thermostat without reservation for added thermal benefits...
But without these modifications, unless you are running a stratospheric pressure radiator cap to suppress boiling at the back of the head, running a 190 thermostat is asking for problems with heat...
-
Go.
End of discussion.
-
" It seems to me like 40-50 extra HP would go a long ways with a 2900 lbs car toward making the car more fun, less sluggish around town and on the freeway"
So will a 3.90 with an early five speed and an 11# flywheel.
It will be a different car with those two mods alone. No engine changes required at all.
Sluggish comes from three things:
1) Gear ratio in the back set up for 'fuel economy' and not 'performance'---the world got 3.70 with a four speed, and 3.9 or 4.11 with a 5 speed (in the JDM you get a 4.38 with a 2/2 and five speed...)
2) Heavy stock flywheel that masks response to throttle inputs.
3) People who don't freakin' know how to drive and think the L28 is a Small Block Chevy and expect performance below 3500 rpms when they floor it. Do us all a favor, drive the car in the proper gear for speed, if you are not going 60mph, you shouldn't be in fifth...hell, fourth is a stretch for 60, actually. Normally that is 3rd gear territory if I'm accelerating down an onramp for commuting. (and it would be the top of 2nd with my 3.70 if I was in my turbo car...)
Consider well these facts.
-
IMO, "terrible question"...
Bolt-Ons are not what you need to look to, I will repeat this again for the sake of your edification.
I got a 76 S30 with triple Webers, Header, and exhaust. Car felt hot... I mean my butt dyno said this thing was a screamer.
Of course the Dyno-Jet said it made 87 or so HP.
Off came the Webers, and sold were they.
Off came the header, and given away it was.
I installed the stock 176,000 mile EFI system we took off our Bonneville car that was sitting in a box. I installed a proper N42 Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold with an MSA Downpipe to mate to the 2.5" crush-bent exhaust that was already in the car (to which I added a BIG Glasspack---one of those 36" mothers that fits under the tranny!)
Then, with attention to detail the timing was set, valves adjusted, blah blah blah...
Car spun the same dynojet to 147HP.
You want 50HP? How about almost 70...from basic maintenance and proper performance tuning.
Quit looking for the 'Magic Bullet'---optimize what you have, and until you are making AT LEAST 147HP on your stock system, consider the fact that 'something ain't right' and you need to fix THAT before looking for some 'magic bullet' to give you more horsepower.
Putting bolt-ons to a sub-optimal car is not the way to do it.
Your question was 'how do I get 200HP from an N/A S30 L28' and that thread already exists.
Sure, I got the answer: bolt on the complete Slovers head with Isky cam, and a set of 44PHH Mikuinis and spend some $$$ on dyno time with a five gas analyzer...
-
While the vertical axis appears to have incorrect scaling, that horizontal axis on the L24 run looks like someone's dyno sheet I know...
-
Oh, you mean like 'which cam is BEST for an L28ET engine'?
-
I find in cold weather, that is about the desired placement for a cat on a vehicle. It seems like a universal fitment.
-
That was the point from the beginning for the testing. Curiosity is good...if you got the money to satiate it!
-
I was very happy with my L20ET turbocharger and exhaust manifold on my N/A L28 conversion...
-
The chassis I ship to Europe are bought with a specific criteria: If at all possible get cars that have not been worked on or restored.
They just don't want surprises when they come out of the acid dip. Many times the body work put into these cars, being 'cheap jap crap' just wasn't up to par, and for someone competition prepping the bodies, it all ends up usually needing to be done over. I have gotten cars that looked like the front half was run over by a semi because they wanted spares for some of the stuff they previously prepped and was involved in shunts at the track.
When you buy a 'desert car' like in the photo, where you can see the body is all original, the paint having simply erroded off over time and exposure... You have all the ills revealed. There should be no surprises. You know what you got and it's an acid dip away from starting prep for paint.
Now you got one all shiny and painted up...you NEVER KNOW what is under there. It may LOOK great...
I remember a Box Skyline I worked on in Japan. The ENTIRE rear of the car had bondo on it---from the paint job on it you could never tell. Nice job, but instead of clipping the car or putting new quarters on it, they simply banged it all out close and skim coated everything with polyfill. Some places like the "Godzilla Arch" were almost entirely constructed out of bondo---close to 10mm thick!
Car LOOKED GREAT. Buyer paid a premium over other cars that were 'tired looking' with faded paint and good interiors because car buyers are like crows: "They like shiny things"
Me, I'm no crow. I'm more like a racoon, I'll take my catch down to the river and wash it before I get too involved with it! Maybe bring a bag of tools and a tasty beverage with me and make a day of it!
-
Chris' setup goes like the Trust Exhaust from Japan, as well as the stock Z432 Setup---those pipes should utilize the 'double bumps' inthe diffy x member to tuck up tighter, and then exit on either side of the diffy.
That MSA ran them under I guess makes sense for someone doing a 280 witout the cutouts. But I like Chris' exhaust much better. I gotta check that out further!
-
Im not flaming by any means but it's been my experience that people GROSSLY overbuild turbo motors for the HP they expect. Like forged pistons on a 300HP L28. Foolish waste of money IMO. Same for balancing the bottom end, it's a turbo and won't exceed stock rpm limits so with parts simply weight matched, stock balance will be intact.
Frankly IMO for 200HP on an L20A, you could keep everything longblock stock, and slap the RB25 turbo on there with an IC and some fuel control. That would do it. A gas flowed head would make more power at lower boost, but if it's cheap you want, and you have a decently performing N/A L20...don't screw up the mix!
My L28 came from a corporate Cedric, and I boosted it with uncracked head gasket to 350HP and have run well over 40K miles yet with nary a complaint. And I'm not running the best petrol either, I keep waiting for it to die in some unexpected manner, but it just keeps going and going and going like the energizer bunny.
My opinion on building the L is that most people shortcut components and end up with less of an engine than before the y started! Yeah, doing it 'right' is expensive, but for 200HP on an L20A, stock bottom end is more than adequate.
-
"I figure weight is the biggest performance booster and plan on going with fiberglass fenders, bumpers and hood."
You figured wrong, take the L28, turbo it to 300HP, and leave your expensive fiberglass parts at their vendor. The performance 'increase' you will see compared to the crash integrity, and simple creature comforts you dispense with will make for a miserable car to drive compared to the Mustang GT.
My 73 240Z ran well enough with 350HP at the rear wheels, with a full interior and a tuck-n-roll headliner to boot.
You can turbo the L26 as well, but you got the L28 why not use it nobody will know the difference.
He was not amused...
Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?
in L-Series
Posted · Edited by Tony D
Rossman: "yes" If there is a single small external bypass for pre thermostat opening curculation within the block, that passage can be blocked. Most of the guys here are running a turbocharger which has water cooling---a 10mm line which is more than large enough. The previous arrangement was two 8mm's usually...
NewZed: "The closest I recall was a report of producing equal, sharp, "sudden onset" detonation across all cylinders."
That would be opposed to the consistent detonation across the hottest rear cylinders previously. Or the runaway temperatures at the rear of the engine, as opposed to a consistent temperature at hte Thermostat Housing compared to the CHT monitoring point. Stock the CHT reads 20F or so higher...and that's 'indicated'---you can't go by Thermostat outlet temperatures, that was one of the first things mentioned in the thread. The monitor point for tne engiine water temperature should be CHT, and when you concentrate on decreasing CHT, you result in even temperatures across the whole engine, without the disparity present in the stock engine.
Throughout the thread it was mentioned that it wasn't audible detonation that killed you, it was the stuff you didn't hear. By getting a consistent temperature, the tendency to detonate in 4/5/6 first (inaudibly) is greatly reduced. Some may see it as you characterize it above if they push it beyond the point where mixture/combustion chamber design/octane will support smooth combustion. It was happening there before but only in the hottest cylinders at the back. Comprende?