[These stock wheels i love so much.. i was wondering if anyone here has seen...]

The stock ZG flares were designed with 14X10" wheels in mind. Backspacking for a 10" is no problem.

 

Go a little wider, use a bigger flare.

 

My rears when I bought my car were 295/575R-14 Dunlops on 14X13's and 265's on 14X10's up front...

Went wider out back later on.

[SHAVING THE FLYWHEEL]

I have run (an in the JDM it's common) to run the stock flywheel at 15#.

These are not for 8000+rpm engines, but for cast piston engines running in more or less the stock rpm range.

If you have a sound stock flywheel, lightening it in a competent manner (as done universally in the 80's in Japan...to around 15#/6.5-7Kg) doesn't affect anything. Basically you remove the inertia ring at the outermost edges and remove stress risers everywhere else.

In that regard, one could argue that a lightened flywheel is SAFER than a stocker with the intertia ring intact! All those stress risers, big moment away from rotational centerline...

 

The photographs are NOT of a 'lightened stock flywheel'--you can't do that to one, it has to be a forged or stamped steel unit, the cast material doesn't have the strength to support that cross-sectional area.

 

The BIGGEST difference I saw between USA and JDM machine work on the flywheels was that the Japanese units didn't mess with anything behind the frictional surface other than taking enough off to remove casting irregularities (stress risers) while most of the US-Lightened units thinned that area out, as well as the cross-sectional area where the hub mounts to the crank snout.

 

The Japanese worked the intertia ring and ring gear extensively, but left everything inside the frictional surface pretty much alone. This results in drastic changes in performance response compared to the stocker. Very startling change, my 15# iron flywheel runs like an 11# Tilton.

 

If I was having one lightened, that is what I would pay attention to when at the shop.

 

<EDIT>on the 4.2Kg, yeah they are that light. I have some. They are real and have been around for years. THe ring gear is integral, not a separate piece. It's a one-piece forging.

As for 'lightest'--well there are plenty of multiple piece units that, INCLUDING CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE weigh under 15# TOTAL! And they have significantly reduced Moment of Inertia, the perormance is brutal.

[First Mexican Car]

Mexican car?

What, it comes here without official importation or Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin, then breeds, and displaces native born vehicles with governmental subsidies...

 

Top Gear got nothing on those who live in the border zone...

[To lean or not to lean, that is the question]

Check some of the old Chrysler technical documentation on EGR injection rates on their lean-burn engines...

 

Ford had tip-in stumble issues with their EGR, but Chrysler was pumping it in like crazy!

[running a little rich]

'I've had pretty good luck with tweaking the AFM it's simple more tension leaner, less tension richer. the 02 reads at an idle .9V and at half throttle it's reading 1.73V or so. '

 

OH, good luck with that then, you have a very special set of readings there.

 

[To lean or not to lean, that is the question]

it was more of a comment regarding blanket removal of 'emissions parts'---the reason for EGR was to lower CC temps dropping NOx. Same thing happens where you retard ign timing. keeping egr, you can run more spark advance.

 

with the diesels out there having "egr coolers" itvirtually eliminates the 'bad' side effects of injecting HOT EGR into the intake manifold. Really, flat tops got most the bad rap for the heat of the egr. Eliminate the heat, and keep the benefits. it's a thought, it won't be the easiest route, but you should see some gains.

[Build advice needed - fast road L26]

"There can also be such a thing as too big."

 

Not from what I've seen. At least on the exhaust side. Extractors, maybe, exhaust pipe? Bigger=better. This is covered extensively elsewhere, but a 3" exhaust on a 2.4 is not 'too big'...in fact, it's just about right. Going slightly smaller won't hurt all that much if packaging is an issue...but if you got the space, may as well do it once.

[What do you guys haul your racecar with?]

Yeah, my enclosed trailer is a behemoth compared to the flexible flyers made today. EMPTY it weighs in at 6600#!

 

The thing is so stiff I can jack it up from one corner and all the doors open and close. Definately not like todays trailers. The difference between 1978 and modern day, for sure.

[Fuel Injection is coming to NASCAR!]

My gawd! What's next crossbreeding with Australian V8 Supercars????

[Japanese N/A L6 400hp, how they do it, pictures I've found, etc. Not 56k safe]

Slovers is getting 218CFM on a stock intake valve...

I forget the exhaust number, but 165 seems to come to mind, and that was either on a stock or small oversized valve there.

 

Rebello was making similar numbers on stock valves. JeffP was kind of stupefied that he improved the numbers to what he has in his bigger-valved head on stock valves.

 

As Burton Brown in the #7770 Bonneville Car shows, the Rebello will make enough HP to punch a stock-bodied Z through the air to a point where the aerodynamic forces undisputably prove the 400 HP Claim. (That was the Red 240 on the salt I posted earlier in this thread.) And that doesn't take into account it's happening at 4400 ft elevation!!!

 

Proprietary stuff is the man's bread and butter. I know for a fact one engine builder in particular is really interested in what JeffP has on his head now.

 

When you can punch 400HP out on an Engine Dyno (say at 5500 rpms held for 5 minutes to check cooling performance)and have consistent oil temperatures, and consistent water temperatures, with no front to back difference on the temperature probes you start to realize, it's not making the power that is the key, you can do that with a turbo easily.

 

It's keeping the engine cool and consistently cool during the whole time of high-specific output. You keep it cool, it doesn't detonate.

[Tool Review...]

I'm with John C on his #6. I buy them for the Indexes, and as they burn up, I replace them with 'good' drills that I hide from the wife and son. There a plenty of HF Drills floating around my place...but hidden in a locked cabinet is the nice high-end American Made Drill set which is almost complete now, after two decades of burning up cheap drills and charging them on my expense reports!

 

I bought a Butterfly 3/8" Drive Air Impact from Harbor Freight in 1985. I abused it forever, and sometime around 2005 it stopped turning after I spent several weeks using it at NAS Coronado on and air system that literally had water flowing out the exhaust port when I used it. No, I didn't lubricate it. I didn't fill it with WD40, and then at the end of the job I just threw it in the tool box and it probably rusted solid. I've been meaning to take it apart and see if the vanes are able to be freed up. It's a principle thing, I bought it for $9.99 and had FREE SHIPPING to my APO. It's probably the best buy I ever made in a tool. I would NEVER have thought I would use it as much as I did (in an industrial setting daily from 1989 to 2005) and it never missed a beat. I rarely oiled it, and when I did, it was with whatever was available. Never did any of the stuff you were supposed to do. I am really amazed it lasted and performed like a new tool right to the end. Bought the replacement at HF on sale for the same $9.99, but it isn't finished as nicely as this one which was "Made in Japan".

[240Z Stainless Steel Exhaust]

Yeah, I'm close to Burns, so when I go to Porterfield, I stop by Burns and pick up the stuff I need.

I'm with the guy above in the regard of 'stainles steel that rusts'---I had a set of 400-Series headers, and damned if they didn't rust. If I'm going to make it stainless then I'll buck up the $$$ for the 304 after the turbo or header.

 

You CAN polish series stainless and it will look great. I just don't know what you can do to keep it from getting the specks of rust all over it. You can polish it again and they go away. But how often do you want to polish your exhaust? I did my headers once. Once.

 

Aluminized and coated would be a liftime exhaust. Frankly the JDM Trust system I got from the late 70s is still going strong with just some high temp paint on it. If it was coated, I guess it would still look like new except where I curbed it a few times!

 

All a matter of personal preference I guess. To use 400 Series to say you have 'stainless exhaust' is one way to look at it, but most guys who want stainless don't want the rust. If you aren't running it enough to get the rust, probably making a straight mild steel exhaust (not even aluminized) and having it total coated would likely give the same results...without the damned rust.

 

Did I mention I hate rust?

[260z? Yes or no?]

Just to be a bit anal: In the US, saying it's a 260 and a 74 is redundant.

 

And just to be clear, the "good bumpers" isn't defined by the 74 model year -- it's an early vs late production in that model year. Also, the 1973 240Z's and the 260Z's both had the flat-top carbs, which gained a bad reputation. Those with more carb knowledge than I can tell you if this reputation is well-deserved or not.

 

There is one reason to pick a 260Z over a 280Z: Exemption from bi-annual smog tests in CA. (I know, it's not applicable for you, but it was a factor for me.)

 

Better go back and check the facts:

 

1) I have the 1975 Datsun Dealership Brochure, showing the 1975 260Z. Initially both were offered because EPA, DOT, and FMVSS regulations didn't conicide. Any vehicle made after 9/74 is FEDERALLY a 1975 Model. 260Z's were produced till 12/74...

2) Again, the bumpers are an abberation due to the same kind of preparation for the same DOT and FMVSS rule changes. The non-North American 260's basically have 72 style bumpers till the end of 1978 when the ZX was introduced overseas. The EARLY 74 Bumpers comply with an interim standard that is more stringent than the 1973 standard (mainly the requirement that the bumper return to it's original position within a set time after an X mph impact), The 73's don't do that, the early 74's do. The LATE 74's had a 5mph complinance requirement stacked on top of the prior impact standard, so they put a BIGGER pbumper on the same strut assembly that was present to comply with the 'interim standard' in place from 12/73 to 6/74. Welcome to the Government not making up their minds...

3) I've never smogged my 75 280Z, and just to be a bit anal about it, it isn't "Exempt" from compliance, it just doesn't have to be physically tested at a smog station every two years like 76-Later cars. Get tagged on a roadside test, get turned in by a 1-800-CUT-SMOG do-gooder, or get pulled over by a CHP for a roadside smog device check, and you're trooping down to the Test-Only or Referee Station for that sniffer and visual compliance test. If you blow gross-polluter, guess what? You go back into the program....forever... Actually in this regard, I'd PREFER the later EFI cars as with the proper steps being taken in California.

) The Flat Tops from 73 and 74 are very different animals. My preference is the 73 carbs as they have bigger float bowls and can sustain a longer pull with a marginal fuel pump... but really the issue was said to be the 'carbs' when in reality pumping hot exhaust gasses through the intake manifold really was more of the issue. Hot start was an issue, but so it was on ALL 1973 and cars...including 350 Powered Chevy Impalas. The word on the street in the day was "don't buy a 73 because the starters bake with all the emissions crap on the car, and the vapor lock is terrible." Same quadrajet that was there before.... Hmmmmmmmm....

[Does anyone recognize this front spoiler?]

Use "Fill Flash" and get on the ground to take the photos. It's too dark for me to tell, but it looks like an older Kameari Urethane unit apparently screwed over the lower valence for a 280Z with sheetmetal screws.

[running a little rich]

I have never seen a Narrow Band give more than .9V, if you are reading a WBO2 maybe... I'd start looking at your electrics for stuff fouled up.

 

The rest of the post is so abbreviated I can't make heads or tails of it. If you have .9V on acceleration that is where it 'should' be, but using a narrow band is guessing. It should be switching between .5 .7 light and cruise. Closer to .9 if it even reads at idle (unheated single wire...) A three wire heated O2 will work at idle, but that's a step to nowhere. The AFM bypass will tweak the idle mix, but jump two paragraphs below to see you need more than a single wire O2 sensor to set it!

 

Get rid of the hodgepodge mickey-mouse Bosch Licensed stock EFI crap and put proper fuel control on it and these 'compromises' will not be necessary. You will tailor the fuel to where it needs to be.

 

But not with the O2 sensor you have in there, you need WBO2 at least, or a five gas analysis on the dyno even better. If you want to screw with the AFM, you will need at LEAST a CO meter to properly set the idle air bypass. If you're happy with partial throttle and it's only idle with the 'rich' problem now, this would be the way to do it. It's on the side of the AFM, and everybody I know of who tweaked it without having a CO Meter hooked up was sorry they did. You can try, but don't say you weren't warned!

 

The problem is not with the mechanical part of the engine, it's the substandard hodgepodge of electrics you are tweaking and freaking to try and make it do something it wasn't meant to do. Get rid of that, and you will get rid of the fueling problems.

 

Good Luck on the AFM tweak.

[Build advice needed - fast road L26]

Scott Burkhardt's 240Z ran at MSA's dyno event last year at 192RWHP. That was an 040 L28, running a worked head, Isky Cam, and basically a stock flat-top bottom end. Oh, and SU's.

 

That's rear wheel, so that is right in your realm of stated desires if you were talking 'crankshaft' horsepower.

 

It's a daily driver, not ill mannered at all. Very tractable. Frankly I'd call it 'sedate' compared to what I'd tolerate for my daily driver. But then again, I'm a bit off...

 

But some of this commentary??? "Stock Exhaust"? Dream on. Extractors and a 3" do a STOCK engine good, on one that's hotted-up, it's mandatory. Unless you want to get intimate with a die grinder and that stock 40+ year old cast steel behemoth you got underneath the induction system now!

 

The head is where the power will be found. Gas Flow it, cam it correctly, and your HP Goals are within reach as stated with an untouched bottom end. And yes, on an L26.

 

Easy Peasy Lemon Squeasy, all it takes is dinero!

[To lean or not to lean, that is the question]

Nope, depending on loading and use of EGR, you can go as far as 22:1.

Typically 18:1 is a generally accepted as a benchmark. Old lean-burn carburetted Chryslers were at that level, and as lean as 22:1.

 

If you have EGR, it allows you to introduce it, lower combustion chamber temperatures and run a bit more advance.

 

But it's an Emissions Thing, so take it off...

[So, what is odd about this R32?]

I'm delayed a couple of days in Thailand.

But not to worry, I will be gracing Gen. Trias Cavite with my presence....just a couple days after Valentine's day I guess

[Superbowl Rant (Why the NFL and MBA's suck]

Football puts me to sleep, I'd rather watch some rugby. Those guys are real men, not a bunch of idiots that shoot themselves at night clubs.

To be honest, that is where I've turned to watch the sport I once loved.

[L series cams]

Many online references people think are 'complete and comprehensive' either through inference or someone outright stating it....usually aren't

[Reverse Cooling]

Why are you mounting it where the alternator is? It will end up going in the 'out' of the thermostat, and come out the center of the old water pump opening. A simple plate where the old water pump was, along with the thermostat housing and thermostat is what will be there...

Going "in" will be on the A/C pump side of the block, and radiator would most easily be a crossflow or downflow with inlet and outlet ends reversed. A high point burp tank like from a roadster would help to bleed the system.

 

And again, for best distribution, reading the No5 Cooling thread for the manifolded distribution of water to the head instead of from the head may be advisable.

 

Trust me, you're not the first one to think along these lines...

[Triple Mikuni, CAM option help]

Well maybe. Which L28? According to the much refered to Atlantic Z cam sheet, the L24 and the L28 used the same cam (A) all the way to 8/81. After that date they changed the L28 cam. The L26 of course had a different cam.

 

So then what exactly is the issue with what I posted? Or is yours an attempt at clarification. Most L28's will be out of poop well before 5500rpms. I of course never mention the L20A Dual Carb Spec cam as most people don't have access to them any longer.

 

Would common sense dictate if "A" was in "all" L28's 'to 8/81' that it may not be the "L24" cam referred to? What of "B"and "C" and of course 'others' which may or may not be on an all popularly read sheet? What would your reference be in an 'L28' cam in that instance (those produced after 8/81?

 

"If it came in an L28, you don't want it for performance N/A applications, it restricts the useable RPM range of the engine."---doesn't matter 'which' L28.....'ANY' L28 sux.

 

Clearer now?

[240Z Stainless Steel Exhaust]

I thouoght 321 Stainless was the 'preferred' exhaust material---but that may have been in reference to headers and not the entire exhaust. Going to something cheaper may be prudent.

[Do my eyes decieve me or is this a Datsun based replica?]

Nobody ever said the people on the TV knew WTF they were talking about. This is just another example.

[Superbowl Rant (Why the NFL and MBA's suck]

Gotta love the NFL restricting any sort of TV access on the web to only USA.

I rarely watch their overhyped, BS games anyway, and when I found that my team The Packers somehow landed in a birth for the big game it was a suprise.

 

So not that I'm in the USA where I can watch it, or in any large city like shanghai where I can go to a bar at 6AM to catch the game. I'm in someplace that JUST HAPPENS to not have one of the TWO asian cable channels carrying the game.

 

No problem, it's a FREE TV EVENT RIGHT? I'll just pick up a stream on the INTERNET...

 

WRONG, two days ago all the low bandwidth sites are seized. Ad if the fu*king government has nothing better to do than shut down superbowl streaming sites.

 

So now, I go to the NFL.COM site, which I have been able to watch games from before only to find they RESTRICT ACCESS to ONLY WITHIN THE USA.

 

This has about put the final nail in the coffin for these greedy bastards. I'm sick of the way rule changes have corrupted an already corrupted game, and now the pernicious forces of greed and 'not leaving money on the table' have effectively restricted the content to ONLY where they want it to be. Congratulations you arsewipes---you have taken a book straight out of Microsoft's playbook. Great idea keep the game from people who WANT to see it.

 

The NFL makes me puke. And the people running the league make me wretch even more. Lambeau and Rooney would roll over in their graves to see their traditions and their teams associated with such a fu.ked group of individuals. This latest revelation, abomination... disgusting.