Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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As it is with people who swap from EFI to carbs becuase they are familiar with them, I make the same suggestion:
LEARN about the system, it only takes a couple of hours of reading.
Spend time reading and learning and less griping about it on the internet, and by that time you WILL understand the setup and will have fixed the problem.
Like guys who blame the EFI when they got the car, becuause it was the thing they understood the least, I get the funny sinking feeling you are blaming the carbs for the issues because you don't know what you are looking at.
You have given us nothing of substance to go on regarding troubleshooting---because you don't know what to give us. Learn the basics, then you will give us something we can go from.
If the car starts and runs, the carbs are working. That it 'doesn't accelerate' doesn't mean NECESSARILY the carbs are the fault. Is the car warmed up? How old is the gas? What oil is in the dampers? Blah Blah Blah...
You can't get nothing from nothing, and that is what is going on here now. Educate, do not regirgutitae. When you have a basic knowledge, maybe you can give us something more to go on---frankly you haven't given us anything from an EFI perspective that would solve anything either. It's a crap post. Make it better or give it up and delete it.
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no, i never said that.
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VIN and engine numbers don't match from the factory, so how could they tell?
Depending on what market you are in, yes they do! In the USA the only plate that didn't have an engine physical serial number and displacement signifier on it was the 77/78 280Z which simply said 'L28' all the cars up to that point had a matched VIN/SN correlation as recorded on the engine room VIN plate.
This is also true in other countries outside North America, but it's hit-or-miss...
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the suction domes move independent of throttle plate angle depending on manifold vacuum present biased against damper oil weight, weight of the piston, spring weight on the piston and any sliding friction present.
the differential between the opening of the throttle plate and the opening of the suction dome exposes manifold vacuum to the CV (constant velocity) section of the cabe where the needle and jet is exposed to the airstream, and pulls gas from the jet and atmoizes it. The size of the needle at any given station determines cross sectional area of the jet exposed to the air and ultimately dictates total fuel flow possible under any condition.
Have you read the SU FAQ yet?
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Oh, but wait... No government likes cars. They.................................<snip>.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................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And THAT is my governmental meddling about cars rant! (self enforced rules-compliance snippage)
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To add to what Ray says, don't confuse a turbos hot side a/r with getting 'more power up top' in MOST cases all it does is delay boost onset making for LESS power under the curve. If you have an A/R that is too big or you have messed up sizing it and your slip ratio is off wastegate sizing may be more important...but that's a band-aid to an application problem.
If JeffP could run a T3/4 hybrid to 500HP and 7000rpms with zero intake/exhaust delta-p and only use a 0.63A/R housing you might want to reconsider your 'need' for a 0.82 hot side. And that was on an INTERNAL wastegate!
All a 0.82 will do is move your boost threshold from 3000 to 3500 or higher (depending on compressor-side mapping) and put the flapper into a less flow conducive angle.
You may want to review the progression of Jeff's turbos, as he was making an honest 450RWHP on a stock housing ported to work with a different T3 turbine wheel, and a TO4 Compressor housing.
That thing would give him 30psi at 3000rpms and pull well to 7000.
And again, that was with the INTERNAL wastegate. If you are worried about too much compressor and want to blow off excess exhaust that is another way to go, but the staging of the wastegate is much tricker. I don't think it's needed. Frankly anything to 400 would likely not need an external at all if you do your sizing right. I think Jeff had some creep problems at the stock 8psi setting, but after that it was fine.
Another thing you want to pay attention to at Jeff's site is the actual flowing of the Tial 38mm WG, it's not as great as it should be and their smaller unit actually flows more. It's all on his extreme280ZXT site at anglefire. I think you're going big in the wrong places, and adding complexity you don't really need at that power level.
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I believe they are the same. I can't see the bearing number, but these parts are interchangable on US models telling me they were a 'universal application'... things like bearings and seals are RARELY market-dependent.
I hate to admit this, but my 74 260Z has a partially collapsed steering column, and those parts are just hanging there most of the time. It hasn't affected driving of the car for over 150,000 miles, including countless autocrosses.
I can see where a bearing that was sticking could cause a problem, but it's a support item for the end of the shaft, it's along for the ride mostly...
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What is all that stuff?
You mean you get to stop driving your car for 6 months and just WORK on it? No WONDER you guys back east have such nice looking cars. Man, all we can do here in SoCal is drive drive drive drive. You gotta have like four cars before you can take one out of circulation to work on it. Then you have to decide which drive to skip, which car show to skip, which race to skip to make the time to work on it!
Man it's brutal! You guys look like you got a great deal, that white stuff comes and lets you turn off the sprinklers so nobody complains about not having a green lawn, you don't have to mow it every week, and it's nice an white. I bet you can shoot Kodachrome 25 outside with all that reflectivity! (But they've taken my Kodachrome away...)
You indeed, live in a land of what looks like Milk, at least! All that time to work on the cars. Lucky bastards!
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Have to agree with Randy on that one. The cost for purchase and shipping is less than repairing a rusted out eastern Z. Economically for a serious long-term keeper it makes much more sense.
I have had people in Europe tell me 1978 chassis I have supplied out of the desert had less rust on them than 3 and 4 year old BMW's which were driving in Europe and brought in for chassis prep!
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Yeah, there is a heavy pull for me to emigrate...
Youtubes like that don't help, man!
First thing I said to Cesar was 'They make a 7K with EFI now you know?'
Drinks too much gas. Ahhh well. Yeah, an SR20 powered Jeep would be my choice. And a VW Tricycle...
Something I could FIT in!
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Page 13 should explain it... On the following, "80" should be noted. It does not look like it was from crown down, and does not include the rings, so a combination source should be considered. Anybody wonder why running pig rich (note crown/ring area) is bad? I think you were wall-washing.
I like the GRAPHICS on this one slightly better...
Plus I have always liked TRW/Koblenschmidt! Nice Ubermenchen with the cape as well...
Between these two OEM Piston Damage Books, you should see the common patterns that emerge.
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Putting a cat on a car with EFI and putting a cat on one with SU's is apples and oranges.
I have to appreciate the high level of technical expertise here, and adherence to scientific methodology when doing these sort of swaps.
Please keep in mind, because someone discusses the technical aspects of a subject does not mean they are 'stuck in theory'---I am a firsthand proponent of field testing to prove or disprove theory.
But don't be stupid about it! Ignoring proper application warnings is just that: stupid.
So take your ball and run, don't share the success story, don't give us before and after emissions readings. That really helps everyond on the board. Thanks for that, man!
I guess the next guy will simply have to do it on his own and report the results...if he chooses to do so after being INFORMED of the things to be wary of when setting up the project.
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Every Eurospec Turbo has the oil cooler. Only some in the USA got them. I would say retain the cooler.
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More wiring is better than less. There are actually only a few wires that are connected inside the right fender off the fusible link box that are necessary for the EFI/ECCS, but having it all will wipe out the possibility that you will miss them. Fishing them from the inner fender is a PITA, and usually people cut them, remove them, then splice them back together afterwards. If you are good with the brittle plastic connectors in the fusible link box, you might get them out unharmed and can plug them straight back in---I have accomplished that feat exactly ONCE.
That being said...if the car is running and you can confirm it runs well you may be money and time ahead discarding the stock harness altogether, and doing the Megasquirt upgrade straight off the bat. It's no harder than swapping in the stock stuff, and it's inevitable once you get the car running and crave more power. IMO from the driveability standpoint alone, the swap to MS on any running ECCS 280ZX or S30 conversion is well worth it.
All said and done, I think the MS conversion is actually easier than the stock setup. It seems there's less bulky wiring 'along for the ride' if you use the $65 harness!
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That is their design function. It keeps the fuel in the Accelerator pump below it from percolating out and making a TERRIBLE lean flat spot on quick throttle application. Heat boils the fuel in the accel pump and it discharges up therough the pump nozzles, leaving them dry when the time comes to quickly hit the throttle and inject the accel squirt. Running a volatile light solvent (gas) over the top of the accel pump (and under the float bowl) sucks out heat from both areas and keeps the bowls and accel pump full of liquid gasoline.
These are an OEM part for some JDM cars with hot non-crossflow engine compartments!
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Put them all on the dyno and find out which works best for you.
That, despite all experts opinions, is the correct answer!
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"Vintage Hillborn" Just like "Vintage" HKS ITB's on a HKS Type 2 Surge Box and Lucky Strikes!
And like I said: "N/A, No Problem!"
"Vintage" Rally Z Engine (Photo taken: 1972!!!), Crossflow Head, Bosch 1st Generation Electronics (courtesy of JECS of course!) That big pipe to the can on the firewall, THAT my friends is the MAP sensor, and calibration on those was NOT my cup of tea!
And of course, "Vintage Hillborn" (Taken from the E-Bay ad I got them from---if I lost the auction, I sure as hell didn't want to loose the photos of what they looked like!)
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Bring "Back"? Until September 2009, the Hillborn unit I have was in competition and winning races! There's no "back" when you never left!
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Yeah, I think with the L24 Rod (133mm) you are 1.5mm down bore for a turbo, and with the L14 rod (136.5mm) you are either flush or down bore. And with the L28 rods (130mm) you are down some more again compared with the L24.... All very old stuff and all from recollection. Some of this may be applicable with the LD28 stroker maybe that's where the L28 rods come in if you want a shorter combination. It's been what...30 years?
The real deal was getting the pistons cheap. They won't be so cheap now, I was looking recently and found those Weiscos at the cost I quoted.
And yeah, finding an L13 or L14 anywhere nowadays is like combing the sand in the barnyard for Hen's Teeth!
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He's got to be mad thinking someone's is going to pay 25k for 24 Datsuns. Shipping them, storing them... I don't expect he'll get many offers.
There was this guy in Pomona with 100 Corvairs. He was asking $110,000 for the lot of them, including spares. He wasn't getting many offers as it was an 'all or nothing' and while there were many individual cars well worth the money, he just wanted them all gone as it wasn't working out for continued storage where he was. It sounds like madness, but when the city came and broke into his yard, and CONFISCATED his cars, arbitrarily impounding them... well he had this lawyer that was a fierce property rights advocate and he HAD complied with manu varied and sundry local ordinances (even I almost missed his place were it not for a small hole that glinted distinctive chrome bits discernable to my eye at 55mph in the far lane...) that got her active in the case Pro-Bono.
Sure, it took a little while. But the cars that were taken were stored (at municipal expense) and then were repatriated to his new location bought with flush funds from some unknown source, from some unknown settlement which he was (smiling ear-to-ear) not at liberty to discuss.
So in his case, municipal blundering gave him the adequate wherewithal to finally do his envisioned retirement: take a car or three a year, work fulltime doing restoration work, and then sell them off. Just keeping himself busy in his golden years.
When I heard his plan, I thought it not that insane. Therefore a guy with only 24 cars...considering I have more than that in my back yard! Insane, mad? No, not by a longshot!
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I also have to comment that the RHD thing must be recent (well, since Marcos left...)
We would ship containerloads of RHD cars cut in half from Okinawa to Manila where my two partners had relatives who welded them back together and sold them as used cars!
At least that's what they told me they were doing. It may have been discount auto parts shipment, which is very profitable in P.I.
Or for that matter, salvaging the drivelines to put into Jeeps constructed locally. My friend Cesar down in Lucena has a "1991 Toyota Jeep"...yeah, I'll look for that one in the Toyota Brochure...NOT! It was a looooong time since I've seen a 4K in ANYTHING, but there it was 4K heaven!
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I'll be back in Cavite in two weeks if the controls gurus get the software debugged. It's on the main road you take to the San Miguel Facility like you were coming from Alabang. Pass this near the intersection of the Truck Service Center, the Junk Shop and the place where they make the tricycles. On to the NP Checkpoint, turn left, and the San Miguel place is right there. Continue on a little further, turn right at the "T" intersection and you go downhill over the river and up into Cavite proper where I recommend the new Inasal that recently opened!
Bak Bak Mmmmmmaserap! and UNLIMITED RICE!
The Chad, PM me and I'll call you on my Globe Number if it's still active. Don't want to give it out as I recently got notice it was close to deactivation. I did not get their OFW package, just a normal SIM so it's only good up to 90 days without top up or other activity. No biggie, I jsut get another SIM when I get there and I have a local phone.
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I patiently waited THREE YEARS for the guy who sniped the HKS ITB's from me on E-Bay (for $400) to call saying he was ready to sell.
Then I paid $2000 for them.
REMEMBER THIS: THE HKS SURGE BOX IS PERIOD CORRECT WITH ITB'S!
Frankly, Nissan made their own ITB's very similar to HKS and SK back in 1971 for RAC Rally Competition. They used a first generation BOSCH ECU similar in configuration to the units used in the Type 3 VW's in 1968.
Triple-Style ITB's on a Weber/Mikuini Style Manifold ARE a 'period correct' vintage modification all the way back to 1971 AT LEAST! (And that is for an N/A application!)
"Nostalgia" is the strange and mundane---not what everybody remembers! A vintage ITB setup (perhaps Hillborn Injection) There's a reason I bought that Hillborn. I may want to put methanol in a street car some day... Or convert it. I don't know. But what is more vintage correct than a Hillborn Injected setup?
Flash rust on the head gasket surface
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Tony D
WD 40 is a WATER DISPLACEMENT COMPOUND and is NOT a preservative oil. It's that simple. Anybody using WD40 as a 'preservative' is guilty of 'not reading the directions'...
It will get water off, but it's a light aromatic that evaporates. As water displacement oils should. Do not preserve items with WD40. Use a good motor oil, preservative oil, or for longer storage cosmoline or other wax-based preparation to keep a dry surface from exposure to oxygen or other corossive or active elements.
WD40 'does not' attract water. That phrase should be edited out of the prior post. Where does stuff like that come from?