Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I tend to favor third world environments where lack of governmental strictures allows me the Col. Kurtz opportunities...
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One thing to realize is that 'what size the gasket is, will not necessarily be what size the HEAD PORT will be' --- this is the fallacy of 'gasket patching. Because you have a gasket oversized to permit casting-shifted dissimilar components on a production run does not mean that is the size the ports need to be. We are looking at a gasket which is slightly larger than the head port. We have a gasket which is considerably larger than the intake manifold. But in reality is really only what---1mm different? While the ports looks small compared to the gasket, in reality compared to the head they are quite close.
Now, to Paul's question---the F1 engines inject above the intake barrels. Longer turbulent mixing helps with fuel homogenization, and this means a more even burn and more power.
Where the step comes in is like an 'anti-reversionary' header---the slight difference in the manifold (being slightly smaller---0.020 to 0.040" radially <I may have mistyped that in the PM.> equally around the circumfrence of the port) will aid in the intake air remaining flowing towards the back of the valve during time of long overlap, or lower speeds when reversion can dilute the intake mixture.
This goes for ITB style injector placement, or placement at the head. It's the airflow dynamic that is in play here, and keeping the air flowing to the head and not reversing in any substantial way. It acts like a 'dynamic check valve' to flow into the head during the sub optimal flow times...
Make better sense?
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The Author of 'How to Hotrod' a nom de plume 'Bob Warr' was a gentleman who recently passed.
"Bob Warr"---Barbed Wire in Texaspeak... Get it? Hyuk hyuk hyuk...
Got a description of the cover art? A 510 in a downhill righthander? If so, that's the one...
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That's a valid point Tony and it's a good transition into a deeper discussion, but when talking max lift (as the PO was) stock rocker ratio is 1.48.
I would debate that simply on the simple geometry involved. Maximum lift will have the most advantageous rocker ratio (closest to the pivot point, slightly over 1.5 as he has found in his calculations), while valve opening will have the ratio closer to 1.48
This is easily graphed using a blueprint of the valvetrain and measuring distances from pivot to actual contact point on the wiping pad. Closer to the pivot you are, the higher effective ratio you will have.
This is how some commercially available, and similarly configured 1.4 (designed) ratio rockers are useable in our engines somewhat interchangably with the Nissan Parts---they have a fixed pivot point of contact, and therefore will return similar performance despite having 'less' ratio---less, but constant. It gives similar performance to a variable ratio which goes from 1.48 to 1.56 (or more, depending on how agressively you wipe off the end of the pad...)
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6 Day work week in Japan at 12 hours a day?
How do I get those kushy hours????????????
My Japanese Hosts never seem to have much time for anything but work, and that schedule sounds like a breeze compared to some of the last trips I've taken there. I think in 3 months on the ground I've had 5 total days off, four of those were over Thanksgiving when they insisted I be in-country on standby because the customer required me there.... and in fact I could have easily gone home to family for the holiday and been back undetected. And one day where there was nothing to do...so I rented a car on a 20 year old SOFA license and went driving for the day.
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The rocker ratio is actually variable, not fixed. It changes as the cam nose wipes across the rocker contact pad from tip to rocker pivot end. For 0.001" of lobe movement on the tip end you generate FAR less lift at the valve than for 0.001" of lobe movement on the pivot end of the pad. It's this variable ratio that requires the assymetric grind profile to get proper valve acceleration on opening/closing events.
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You mean beside the one already resident in the car already? The one that vents excess pressure on drop-throttle into the #4 intake runner (and which helps prevent an untoward rise in manifold vacuum that sucks down oil and generates exces HC emissions?)
What was that again I heard on the wind? Ssssssss Ssssssss Sssssssss and the branches "Earch" in the wind...
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Now, as for Tony...just where exactly can I find a Fairlady for $1500. I'd REALLY like to know.
I can think of no less than three driver Fairlday Z's that sold for that or less in the western region of the USA this past year. There was also a rustbucket back east for $400 as a parts car, and one in a junkyard outside mount home idaho which was bought piece-by-piece on 99 cent e-bay auctions last spring. Sadly, the guy at the junkyard would NOT answer e-mails about larger pieces of the car, thinking he was going to make a killing on the pieces. I got the dash for 99 cents plus shipping. I got the entire wiring harness for under 20$. The steering column complete with switches for 99 cents. The heater box for similar. I spent more in SHIPPING than I did for buying every part needed on this list above! I think the total was under $200 for everything.
I had offered the guy $1000 for the rights to dismantle the entire car including panels I would take from the site, but he never responded. I made the same offer of $400 for selected panels from any hulk he may have had left over after his stripping operations, but nothing was ever responded to in that regard, either.
They are out there, if you are looking. Or know where to look. I have seen cars for sale at MSA for $1500 just to move them which nobody gave a second look at, but the week after the event it goes on e-bay for $3500 and the guy flys down and drives it off! Talk about a conflicted seller...nobody wanted it for $1500, but at $3500 it goes on a buy it now in 24 hours!
As Matt suggests, do more than WANT it.... have the cash RESERVED and IN HAND as when the opportunity arises cash talks and makes the deal. This is a rule which can not be transgressed...
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It's not hard, unless people who haven't done it weigh in with B.S. and clud the issue.
The EVAP line already exists on the left fender well. This is all out there, if that kind of direction sounds 'hard' you may want to consider not doing the conversion until you learn a bit more about your car.
An EFI conversion is very straightforward, the EFI is very simple. As long as you understand it, this is very simple and straightforward. If you don't then things can look insurmountable. Reading is your friend, this conversion is well documented in FAQ/Stickies take the time to read them. This answer is in there as well.
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Well that was a neat something I didn't know I could do Pete, thanks for that. I was shooting more for a 'why' than a 'how' but CamH kinda did that number from firsthand experience in a way better than I could hope for!
If you haven't done it, and only read about it, don't post it! Especially when someone (now several) who have done it inform you it's wrong. Hopefully someone reading the thread will read to the end to get the right information on what line size to use. It's sad when correction requests are ignored, it doesn't help the new guys actually seraching for good information.
Thanks Pete, CamH!
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I was going for more #2...
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In either case, you need to drill the stock return barb on the 240Z tank and replace it with 5/16" barb.
Pete, might you elaborate for the doubting Thomas exactly why you need to drill the stock return barb on the 240 Tank to 5/16"?
(I have always moved the return to the 1/4" vent line at the top of the tank personally.)
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My statement 'more often than not' refers to when it starts blubbering from bing pig rich---some it won't run AT ALL because it's so rich, others it won't idle below 1500 (sometimes fast idle, sometimes foot on the throttle) before it wetfouls the engine. Blub blub blub puffing smoke out the back of the tailpipe.
I make this statement because every one I've ever done has done this. I've only READ of people who claim to be able to run it beloww 2000 rpms if it runs at all. The 240's fuel line is too small for a pump with proper capacity to run the car at idle AT ALL.
I haven't seen one YET that idles with proper mixture with the 240 return line.
Now, as someone admittedly who has never tried it, and only read about it... might I suggest you entertain the thought that you're wrong on this and giving out hearsay and poor information? It's exceedingly easy to try: go stick a 0.1875" restrictor in the line of a working EFI L-Engined car [at idle and watch what happens to the AFR's.
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"Because I don't have titles, I'm selling them as is"---now there is the hallmark of a forward-thinking guy with "plans on restoring them sometime in the future"...
Can you say 'sketchy'?
Offer half that---it will be more generous than what PYP will give him, and without titles in the condition they are in...they're not worth much more than that, IF that! At public lein sale, some of those would be $75-$100 (no motor, no tranny: SCRAP VALUE)
It's not a low-ball offer, it's a fact of life in L.A.
Take it from a guy with a few in his back yard, that price is way high!
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Forged forged wheels? Or Forged forged wheels that are in reality pressure-cast?
Looks can be decieving.
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I make no contention that I have any way to properly transcribe what it sounds like.
Look up "Shite Head" and then tell my how it's spelled in Finnish...
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never done it, but read the stock 240 return line will work as a return line for a stock efi pump. It would be worth a try.
Remove this post, it's not speaking from experience and is repeating bad, inaccurate information. The stock L28ET pump running to a stock L28ET and trying to run bypass through the 3/16" stock 240Z return line will moreoften than not chug pig rich at any speed near idle. This goes the same for an EFI N/A conversion as well. There just is not enough flow capacity in the line to accomodate the FPR bypass under those conditions. This is out there COUNTLESS times.
The preferred workaround is to use the EVAP line from the crankcase accumulation and use it as your FPR return line. You can even run the line off the manifold straight to the line on the left innerfenderwell. You will need to vent the tank another way, but this is all covered in the archives.
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1) I didn't say anything about an "L20A Turbo Cam"---I said early L20A Dual Carb Cam. And to be pedantic, that other cam would be an L20ET cam, not 'L20A Turbo'... The performance is gotten with the extra 500 rpms of revvability that comes with the N/A cam...and the L20A dual Carb Cam is even more aggressive than the early L24 Dual Carb setup.
2) Chances are good if you have an early cam, you likely had the opportunity to take the towers, rockers and lash pads with you. I have never let the 'internal/external' oiling limit me as to what cam I installed. Changing the towers is a snap. And given the way the heads are savaged in SoCal JY's I'm figuring Pablo del Mecchanico con Yonke y mujeres figures that's the easy way to do the swap without every making the terrible mistake of swapping one for the other and seizing something up in short order.
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For $1500, you can buy a Fairlady Z, why cut up a car when you can get one already done properly and not have the worries of a hack.
Pedal Cluster. Pedals bend the other way on the RHD cars. LHD pedal clusters in an RHD Z look like the cluster "?" they really are!
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Was an "A" cam mentioned, or was it merely a question of is it worth trying a "C"?
Don't make this question into something it's not. IMO the Dual Carb L20A cam is better than any of them with more lift and duration, but he didn't ask that question, and I'm not going to befuddle the matter and stall him by suggesting he wait for some mythical 'hot ticket' camshaft.
Any of the early grinds from the 240 will work better in the L28ET to impart a sporting character to a rather sluglike engine performance curve.
Plus he can then confirm and independently testify that the engine DOES run like an L24, only with more power (waaay more power in the case of a turbo...) to put to rest the myth that the L28 'revs slow because of it's stroke'...
I digress...
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-35 makes a nice working climate. If you slip and bust your hand open, it only oozes and clots/freezes pretty quickly so as long as you stay outside you won't loose a lot of blood...
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Concertina wire up top, if you have the bar at the bottom, they will merely crawl over.
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Why not? That's the hot N/A cam and will move the power peak to a more sporting 6300 or so, with a big torque bump midrange. Really should wake up the characteristics of the stodgy turbo grind which is wheeze-o-matic above 5300...
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"They got the stuff to do it right, do it all the time, and if it breaks....they got insurance!"
jdm 280zx emblems (repro)
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
The irony here: Those are new stock parts. I.E. 'they are still available from Nissan' which begs me to repeat my question "has anybody gotten the part numbers and tried simply ordering them?"
Second Irony: Riverside Infinity...bwahahahahaha! That's like 10 minutes from my house!
If they are selling them for $38 online, you can damn well be sure the costs are less than half that, so having a decent discount at your local Nissan Dealer (I get 20-25% under list without much effort...) means you likely can order these 'Rare 280Z Fairlady' emblems for cheaper than you can have them reproduced.
Which is usually the case...