Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Hylomar is your friend...
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Personally, with what a glass place charges to install a windshield, I let them do it!
Gittin'r out is as Steve says: the special tool and there is a trim removal tool as well. If it's a rock chip or whatever and you're replacing the windshield, I'd seriously recommend just taking it to the glass place!
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Finns do everything on birchbark and ice. With Vodka.
My honorary Finnish Name is 'Buska Paa' whether I spell it right or not, it's what everybody there seems to call me!
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The irony of this getting bumped up next to someone's first thread on the site asking if anybody else has ever used ITB's on a turbo is priceless.
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In before the shed...
Have you even LOOKED at the stickies on this site?
I would say the most interesting part of Todd's build (The Z, not his rotary 510) was his Real Carbon-Fiber G-Job Plenum and use of Adel Wiggins Clamps throughout. But hey, 'most interesting' is like 'best' right?
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where is Darius or someone else with DEEP pockets that would finally put this beast to work and NOT blow up...
Putting the hood on their own build in preparation for a move to Reno NV. And it won't blow up.
Now that one? Who knows?
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The broken record skipped?
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Or the ship went through freezing weather and you were inadequately mixed on the anti-freeze!
Or it could be MG Craftsmanship...
I too sell cars into Europe. Appreciation of a rust free chassis is there, and so is a true love of marque and expendable income. I would feel better selling a beloved car into an enthusiasts hands there or Japan simply because they have a committment to preservation and usually the means to achieve it. Here, it's just fodder...
But make no mistake, the financial incentives exist there to run around in an old car. Usually they are exempt from taxation...a BIG incentive for a second car! Coming from America where everybody seems to have a car, you don't really appreciate how much of a luxury it is in most of the rest of the world! It can be VERY expensive to own cars outside the USA. People complain about what they pay here, but they have no idea what it's like in places like Japan, Singapore, or even some of the 'more enlightened and socially concious' portions of Europe!
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The FPR placed after the rail puts the pumps FULL CAPACITY available to the injectors, and regulates pressure on a 'backpressure basis'... If you place it before the rail, you use the FPR to restrict the flow and dump excess fuel before it ever has a chance to feed the injectors. If there is something untoward that happens the FPR is a potential bottleneck to the pumps flow to the injectors.
Also, putting it as a backpressure regulator lets the pump operate at an amperage which can potentially be lower.
This was discussed in the past. In detail. If you look at the stock systems, the FPR is almost always after the injectors at the end of the fuel rail. It aids in bleeding air, and helps in Vapor Suppression.
My concern is 'what tank' are you planning on using, and where is the surge/swirl pot to ensure a flooded pump inlet at all times?
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See what you get when you go through 'alternative channels'?
Call it a Chevy and it's $5.00
Call it a VW and it's $5.50
Call it a Nissan, and it's $500!
Remember the advice given here in the past: Call it a Chevy, pay the $50 'custom charge' and then specify ring sizes, pin height, and dome thickness....and get a wholesale cost of about $40 a piston.
Call it a Nissan, and the wholesale cost goes up over double that!
Damn, and you have two extra pistons when you order the Chevy part... Bummer. Nobody ever breaks a piston skirt or holes just one piston. You always need a whole set of six...
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Do I read this right that you have already removed the head?
I have a lifting chain with quick-links on the end. The quick links attach to two 1/4 thick, 1X3 pieces of strap steel (you can get the strap steel at Home Depot, etc) with two holes drilled in them---one around 3/8" the other slightly larger. The quick link attaches through the 3/8" hole. The other hole can be bolted to just about anything on the head (EGR VALVE STUD, intake manifold bolt...) If the head is removed, you can take a standard bolt and screw it into an open head-bolt hole and use this to lift the engine.
Using the chain links is not wise, the bolts can be stressed, they don't clamp straight, and can break. A small piece of strap attached with quick links will let you bolt to just about anything.
Using quick links allows me to swap to a flat 'hook' that will also hook into the stock lifting sling points if they are on there. Or use one hook on an existing sling point, and a flat one to bolt to the EGR, intake bolt, etc...
It's a very versatile bit of equipment to have in the tool box.
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The header blanket MSA sells is very effective containing the heat given off by the headers. There is more than enough in the kit for a total blanket of the headers, with plenty left over for auxilliary application to other components like a heat shield for the brakes, switches and lines, etc...
I was really suprised by how well it actually worked, easily put right against the head so everything is covered.
As for the box, TWM was making one out of FRP. There are aluminum hand-fabbed pieces, the mind is the only limit.
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New rule for the forum:"Please do not be offended if people offering replies to your poorly constructed post expend as much time on their reply as you did composing it."
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"Found a broken bolt cutter tossed in the bushes next to my trailer and only a tiny little nick on one chain link."
A nice Harbor Freight 'replacable jaws special' no doubt!
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That was on Mikuinis and their available cooling bodies really help alleviate the situation. Weber doesn't have this, so they stay hot, and off gas.
The real issue is vapor recovery (EVAPorative emissions control) for the carbs. All carburettors suffer this, try driving a 1978 Impala Station Wagon with the HD Suspension (4.11 gears out back) with a 350 CID Engine with a Quadrajet...hold your foot to the floor in D and don't let up until just after the secondaries kick in (about 65mph) --- the difference in gasoline smell in the cabin with and without the air cleaner and snorkel on is amazing!
Same goes for a hot shutdown. The quadrajet, thermoquad, holley---anything sitting on top of a hot intake manifold will off-gas like crazy after shutdown. Thing is the individual float bowl volume contributes to how much EVAP you will get. Thermoquads are the worst in terms of 'volume' but best in that they have a phenolic construction making heat transfer less an issue. But the others, with die cast bowls... Triple Webers/Mikuinis/Delortos/SK/OER's have far more volume in them than most domestic single four barrel manifolds so naturally they have a big EVAP possibility.
The 74 SU's had VERY LITTLE captive volume in the float bowl compared to the 73's and therefore were less prone to the smells. The earlier carbs with the metal overboard dumps smelled even with an air cleaner---but the US Models vented the carbs to the air cleaner, and with a thermostatic element that all would have a closed damper on the front of it, now wouldn't it? All barriers to the nose detecting off-gassing.
You will find the EFI car simply won't smell compared to the Weber'd car. Same as if you were running TWM ITB's, they wouldn't stink either...no off gassing after shutdown, only the tau layer on the inlet manifold to dry up and that's almost instantaneous after shutdown!
The source is hot gas in the float bowls. The answer is either eliminate the hot gas, or recover the EVAPorative emissions to prevent the smells. Either will work.
Personally, I'd go EFI... Gut those babies, make them vintage looking throttle bodies, and run an injector rail on your triple manifold. Bye Bye gas smell after shutdown. Hello 30mpg at highway light cruise! Double payback when going ITB EFI over Webers!
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Yep...
Just came back from Korea as a matter of fact. More time in China recently than any place else.
Well, going to Korea now you get a much better than average chance of standing on alert more often than not. Lots of sabre rattling up north. I got to go to Anshan China in late January...wonderful! North Korean Border not that far away... I get to learn about the Frozen Chosun firsthand!
Spent my time there, 3 weeks short of actually getting a short (remote) tour ribbon out of it. They cancelled my last TDY there so I could go go NCO Leadership School. Told 'em: I'm not re-enlisting, I don't NEED NCO leadership school! I would like to have the cool remote tour ribbon on my blouse though...In the service's way of logical progression I was then pulled from NCO Leadership School AND didn't go on the TDY.
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Oh, that does make quite a bit of a difference. With an L....
Hayden, Be Cool, and other manufacturers have electronic solid state thermal controls that have adjustable cut in points.
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Mine are secured with MAC's tie downs exclusively.
I've actually (inadvertently) lifted an entire 240Z to an almost vertical orientation with Mac's Combo Bridle which is meant simply as a way to get a central point on the front of the vehicle to winch it onto a trailer (like dragging a car with flat tires...or no tires, onto a flatbed 2X4's are easier to carry and faster than changing rollers for a quick pickup!)
Macs has a lot of good information at their site regarding proper tow practices, take a while and look around the site. I changed the way I tied down cars after reading their information. Cargo Loading C5 Pallets is not the same, I found out...
After having some 'cheaper stuff' get buckle failures, or otherwise not work well as my normal stolen government property 'surplus' straps, I had to buy something better, and Mac's was it! I won't shop anywhere else for this stuff now. For the price, it's not worth it.
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Yeah, they overcook it a bit. Any White-Superior, Nordberg, Cooper-Bessemer, Buda.... They are some real ground-pounders but are not normally 'moveable'... though in some cases I have seen Enterprise Engines in Big Tractors in the mines.
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I would check with building codes and enforcement. Alteration of commercial parking structures can get into some fines. I worked at a place where they built beautiful offices in an open area similar to what you have---very robust over-code construction but wasn't permit-paid. Ended up tearing it all out.
I think in the long run, a Chain Link with privacy curtian to block any eyes seeing through the fence is the best. Behind that you can do what you want once obscured. Don't think drywall is secure by a longshot. A quick kick and you're into the inside and pushing things out through the hole! With fence, you got to bring something to cut it with! No reason you can't go floor-to-ceiling with fence, either! (Code Permitting)
Really it's sad you couldn't slide a container in there. A 45' high-cube would be obviously 45 feet long on one side, and 9'6" tall, so you would only need a short 'stub wall' up top to seal to the roof. The container would provide ample secure storage for the tools and even a car or two without cramping much floor space since it's only 8' 6" wide. You could stick it in through the door (if it's large enough) and move it on 1 or 2" diameter 10' sections of pipe for rollers till it was in position, then drop it on some 4X4's using a 6 ton floor jack. It would doubt it would be more than $3000 delivered. Don't know how that compares with other methods of 'walling it off' but it does provide an 'office space' so if you wanted a 'heated' work area, that could be it with the garage proper being for car storage and etc...
Likely it wouldn't come under any codes that way, either. I'd really look into codes and what they will allow. The last thing you need is a code guy walking through or looking in an open doorway and saying "Hey, who pulled the permit for that, and when?
Good Luck!
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215 / 60 Split Moreno Valley-Riverside
Did my time on the wash racks at Ft Irwin changing filters in water up to my waist... I had the compressed air service contract out there for a couple of years. Fun Fun Fun... But a better commute than going into freakin' OC on the 91 during rush hour!
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The stock linkage for the mikuinis went to a pivot that mounted to the jet cover/float cover of the #3 carb. There was a short transfer linkage that connected these togehter to the crossbar.
This is why I went throttle cable.
Actually, it's not, i tried to braze the stock throttle linkage into the hole on the Mikuini piece, at which point I realized they had also made it from chrome plated brass. I discovered this as I poked the brazing rod into the 'red hot' linkage bit and promptly collapsed the arm of the damn thing.
At THAT point I decided to use a quadrant I had and convert to a throttle cable.
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I have called them, then put the car up on stumps and stripped the undercarrige. They weren't happy about that, but my spraypainting 'PYP CALLED FOR PICKUP 12/12/08' on both sides of the car kinda forced their hand. Left my wife with $40 and said "just play dumb and say 'it was complete when we pushed that damn thing out there last night! Kids in the neighborhood probably stripped it, it had nice aluminum wheels on it!' when they come to pick it up."
It worked, they took it and didn't charge me. But I didn't get the $40 they said they would give me either!
That thing weighed huge, I had filled in the interior of the car with old compressor elements (6 of them at 322# each!)and all sort of stuff from around the yard. My wife said they had problems getting it up on the back of the truck with their winch. They got a lot of scrap out of that one. Not many saleable parts, but LOTS of scrap---they can't complain!
Project 240Z Turbo ITB Install
in Nissan L6 Forum
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I didn't point you to this one... I pointed you to the Monzster thread which explains the dynamics of the setup!
It's not noob-hating, btw. You did that one yourself, I merely pointed out the error of your ways. Like a dog in obedience school with that choke collar, how can you be expected to learn if never corrected?
I'm not big on the dog chain wearing requirement for noobs, though I concede it would make them more well mannered at some sites I frequent.
Then again, so would a shock collar.