Tony D

"Can cams be repaired? If so, who do you guys recommend?" Paeco in Birmingham Alabama markets a hardfacing compound welded on journals and cam lobes (price of repair is based per lobe/journal) The issue is whether or not you can get the orginal grind replicated! Racer Brown used assymetric lobe profiles and once welded over, if not shadow-profiled (Isky can do this...) and then properly programmed into the grinding machine will be lost forever. It may simply be cheaper to map the specs as best you can, and then talk to Isky or Sunbelt about what grind they have available to approximate it. They are the only two that I know of that are currently grinding assymetric cam profiles for the L-Engine.

"Within 4g a set" is what I would tolerate if I was a proponent (not merely an amused voter for) California's Proposition 19... I agree, there are plenty of accurate drug scales out there (hey, c'mon, who ELES buys something that weighs fractions of a gram for gawd's sake!) that 0.5G tolerance is easily attainable. 4g / Set is some sort of raw produciton tolerance definately not what I'd 'slap in and run'... As for Teflon Buttons, recall elsewhere I stated our Bonny engine walked the PRESSED IN pins, and that as a result of that little experience, we installed teflon buttons in the ends of our PRESSED IN pins! As for the forged/cast pistons and floaters...The VW stuff formerly was ALL forged stuff, and recently they started selling cast pistons (crap) for them, which retain the floating pin design. Same for several other setups I am familiar with... what got me to state it was the "They are stock L28 length, and require floating pin. So you need to run forged pistons with these." Made it sound like you had to have forged pistons to run floaters, and since the rods are set up to run floaters, then you have to run forged to use the floaters... Obviously if you are running light rods, you don't want cast pistons because you will be twisting the engine somewhat tightly and cast won't cut it. Forged is fun...

I will take this in the order presented, and suggest 'What is Surge' sticky elsewhere... or maybe I should assume you read that already and is where you drew your conclusions? Anyway, here goes: Load created Compressor Surge = When the engine is requesting more air than the compressor is actually able to give, correct? No, the situation you describe is 'Stonewall' and is to the lower right portion of the curve moving vertically paralell to the bottom horizontal axis, away from the surge line. The compressor will not surge in this situation, but will merely not produce boost. Air demand is not 'load', load on a compressor is ALWAYS flow+pressure. The more pressure, the lower the flow tolerated, the lower the pressure, the more flow will be generated till you hit Stonewall. This is why if your compressor is too large for your application at lower RPM if you full throttle it your compressor isn't up to speed yet and you hit the surge limit. The engine is suddenly drawing more air than the turbo has to give, now you have flow separation.No, what is happening in that situation is the engine is INCAPABLE OF ACCEPTING the flow generated from the huge compressor, and as a result the pressure is too high for the stable minimum flow requirements, and the compressor surges. This would occur in the lower left of the compressor map rising vertically paralell to the vertical axis. In this instance, keeping the wastegate closed to speed up the compressor, and opening the BOV to induce more flow through the compressor would stabilize the flow and move the load point to the right away from surge. Pressure is vertical, flow is horizontal. Low flow moves you left, high flow right. Low pressure moves you down, high pressure moves you up. The speed intersecting curves throw these lines to a curve, but if you speed it up the compressor is capable of more pressure and more flow, so if you then VENT through the BOV overboard at that speed you don't move VERTICALLY on the axis and risk hitting the surge line, you move HORIZONTALLY to the right AWAY from the surge line. All commercial compressors will always VENT AIR when close to surge---inducing flow will ALWAYS move you out of a surge condition as it usually instantly moves the load point on the graph to the right, and usually down. Throttle change Compressor Surge = When the throttle is rapidly shut under boost conditions, causing air to reverse and force air back to the compressor, causing the compressor to be pushing against an "unmovable object" if you're thinking about it in fluid dynamics (I think)Again, the mechanics of what happens when the throttle is suddenly closed is that 1) pressure rises -- movement vertically UP on the graph, & 2) flow drops or stops -- movement horizontally on the graph to the LEFT. You see that the combination of UP/LEFT puts you into the surge line quite quickly. In EVERY surge situation it's ALWAYS a movement UP/LEFT that will put you into surge. Some cases it's simply that the pressure the compressor is operating at is simply too high for the flow it generates (lower left corner of the map). When you rapidly shut the throttles your BOV should open to induce flow and keep the pressure from rising (move it straight to the right away from surge line) With the controlled BOV you would only open the BOV enough to add flow, but KEEP PRESSURE---a true horizontal right movement. Most BOV's now when they lift over-vent and as a result move to the right, as well as down vertically as the pressure drops. In either case, you move away from surge. Now, I'm understanding (I think) why you don't need a second BOV. I believe this is because your BOV won't suddenly "close" or "open" just because you closed the throttle. On a conventional BOV It WILL. A proper BOV would open at the SLIGHTEST change of throttle position to allow the load point to move along a 'flat line' to the right, keeping a constant pressure (vertical orientation) and keeping the turbo away from surge. For a PID controlled BOV when the throttle was quickly closed, the BOV will OPEN and move the load point right. When the throttle is suddenly OPENED you would see the load point move vertically down, but the BOV at that point would either already be closed, or SLOSE in phase to move the load point up (maintaining pressure) and depending on where you are on the map, may stay open to keep the load point away from surge by venting air and inducing flow (movement right along the horizontal axis). But if you're at a peak PSI for a given RPM and you slam the throttle shut, the PSI will increase as your RPM's are dropping, and this will throw your BOV into an area of the map that it'll open anyways... correct? This is only possible with the PID controlled BOV---and is why I mentioned it. A conventional BOV will open under those conditions because it's ported to the manifold and when the manifold goes under vacuum it will overide the spring and open as it's signalling the BOV that the throttle is closed. During normal movements of the throttle the BOV if it is a simple spring type, and not ported to the manifold would do nothing and is totally pressure based. That is why it would surge in the first example you gave---it only knows 25psi, and won't lift until then. And for surge line following.... I'm thinking that in order to prevent surge, accord to how it's programmed, you'd be OPENING the BOV to let air IN if you're in surge terretory. IE: You're at 1000rpm in 5th gear and you opened the throttle to WOT. This would allow air into the engine bypassing the turbo acting as a restriction at this point, and then using that exhausted air to spool the turbo. Nope, now you are talking 'compressor bypass valve' and a different function altogether. That would be for N/A operation. A BOV is PURELY a venting device, and not a bypass around the compressor. A PROPER conventional BOV would act like this if ported to the manifold---and ducted to the intake tract between the air filter and turbo inlet. Most aren't like that. In that case, before boost threshold, the compressor bypass valve is open to remove load on the turbine wheel to let it speed up quicker. Once any boost is present the Compressor Bypass Valve (which is really what they should have...) will CLOSE, and if ANY change in throttle position is affected, will open to either vent pressure and bypass the turbo. The old Cartech Systems have VERY GOOD BOV/Compressor Bypass Valves. If there was one thing Corky Bell did right was make a damned good BOV/Bypass Valve. They DO NOT sound like BOV's today---they are 'sigh' valves. If you hear the old original Wangan Midnight S30, you can hear the Bypass Valve sighing all the time. Lifting to keep ANY pressure rise from happening in the intake tract on even the slightest lift-throttle situation. Once the turbo is into non-surge area it will be creating PSI and the BOV will close to follow your requested PSI/RPM data.As explained above that is proper Compressor Bypass/BOV operation. That is NOT how 99% of them on the market today operate. They just dump pressure on drop throttle. They do not perform the bypass function. And that was the direction I was going, you have to give up the bypass function with a PID controlled BOV/Wastegate secenario. But this is not bad, since the paradigm for control is totally different. The bypass valve is predicated on parasitic loss reduction and bypassing the turbo to let it spool. That is because the wastegate is open in this situation and the turbine speed is slowing. When the wastegate is controlled to STAY CLOSED and ONLY open upon reaching an optimum speed, then ALL control can be done off venting! You would use a smaller hot-side A/R than on a conventional wastegate setup as you look to generate speed at the LOWEST possible rpm, and then control air on it's own. You can always bypass more exhaust gas if your A/R is too small, but it's impossible to generate full boost at off-idle conditions when you conventioanlly size the hot side A/R to handle peak RPM flow through the exhaust turbine. Look at Big Phils GT35R, he went with a .82 hotside to stop a low rpm surge issue when he had the .63 A/R hotside. The also lost boost response down low. With the PID controller, you don't loose it down low! You keep insanely low boost threshold (say 1500 rpms) and still can use a turbo that flows big air for top end feeding of the engine. If you need more exhaust area, open the wastegate(s)! You did read 'what is surge' right? A lot of this sounds familiar to me... Looking back at the dyno you posted in the other thread, I believe they could have had full PSI much sooner, but they've tapered it the way they have in order to make the power more usable and come on smoother. Yes, it's for drivability, absolutely! And you can then see this is not really a 'new' idea, just one not widely applied because of the tuning complexity. I ran a T3/4Hybrid on my car with a 0.48 A/R. I could generate 20psi at 1700rpms. I also had 265's out back... And to keep this compressor working when stabbing and lifting at 2000-3000rpms I had to have VERY responsive BOV. This would be an 'abberant' sizing for the A/R, but my compressor was not THAT oversized. It would natural surge at 25psi, so 20 was my limit. But now with this kind of control, I could run that SAME 0.48 A/R on the hot side, coupled to a GT35R wheel to produce 25psi at 1500rpms (ball bearings baby, gotta love em!) and simply vent all that extra flow overboard to keep from low-flow surging below the point where the engine demands could take stable flow off the turbine wheel. This was Phils issue, surge in the midrange, but not on the top end. By having a BOV vent during this period, you would MAINTAIN the 25psi for power production (the turbo can make the air, the reason it's surging is because you are too far LEFT on the curve for your vertical point) and not do what the 'fuzzy logic' controllers do (boost per rpm)---they would drop your psi at that point to move you vertically away from the surge line, then raise it afterwards. This gives a power dip, whereas by simply venting excess air and stabilizing flow you maintain the power curve from 25psi! Turbochargers are odd in that you have variable speed wheels and various rise to surge points. By limiting wheel speed to an optimum point, control becomes easier as the points you have to worry about decrease. Natural surge point is the pressure at which the compressor won't produce any more pressure---that is for a given speed. Same as low-flow surge, for a given speed there is only so little flow the wheel will tolerate, it can be looked at as 'natural surge' in that respect, because at that point it can't make any more pressure. What the control system must do is always make sure the compressor can flow enough air across it to keep stable flow. I digress...

Yeah, it's pretty straightforward, a line in and out...some guys 't' on a remote filter setup, or use an oil cooler sandwich plate to get full-port dumpage of the oil. When oil pressure drops below what the precharge pressure is set at, the accusump sumps. I use it because I trashed a turbo... But a prelube is another idea it's popular for, especially when you have a high compression engine which really puts a load on the rod bearings at startup till oil pressure builds. There was some portions in the book regarding oil passage blending in the oil pump...taking out the sharp edges, making the ports match. I think it was in the oil pump section actually. Been a while. Basically the same stuff you do on any engine Chevy, Ford, Toyota...it's not rocket science, all standard prepping a blueprinting stuff. The deburring of sharp drilled holes will really help flow into and out of the pump. The real increase comes from an external pickup line -10 in size to the adapter for the pump, plugging the internal galleries, and then feeding by another large AN nose from the pump to the center of the oil filter---removes all the dinky passeges in the block that restrict pickup and feed in the engine. Makes adding that accusump easy, too!

Floating piston pins are not always forged. This is not a criteria for running floating rods/pins.

THIS IS AN ABOMINATION!

We're helping everybody here... I have a contractor friend who swore by Dewalt. He still has a lot of their stuff. But when I asked him about buying it for myself (battery powered stuff) he said "To be honest the stuff I buy now is from Harbor Freight" and gave the exact same reason BJ just mentioned. The batteries take a crap, and if you buy IN BULK when they go on deep discount sale---you pick up the 'extended two year replacment warranty' for a discount and usually cheaper than the price of the tool alone. When you end up getting is a free replacement when you wear it out using it daily in construction for a year, and then still likely have coverage on the replacement for that second unit as well! I bought the HF Hammer Drill when I did my driveway... abused the hell out of it. It survived. Now, 4 years later I'm still using it to sink anchors and the occasional stuff around the house. This past summer my kid put the chipping hammer on it and dug an access tunnel under our house through the Decomposed Granite our foundation is put on... Well beyond what it was supposed to be used for...but for what I paid on sale ($37) compared to a lookalike "B" brand at $347... hell, why not! Consider them disposable, and buy for the job. Include the cost of hte tool in the jobs budget and if it survives, you're money ahead! In a lot of cases, buying a HF electric tool is cheaper than even RENTING a brand name for the duration of the project!

Yeah, I would tend to agree that 'bait and switch' is something that can get them nailed. There are usually 'substitution clauses' in most online adverts that make it very hard to pursue that line. But I agree, it's the same as driving in 100 miles to the car dealer for the $6000 Chevette, and them saying "well we don't have any of those available now, how about this Pinto for $7200, it's only a little more but you get so much more car!" Truthfully, you still see the bait and switch car ads, low prices for brand name stuff...all they do now is put in the fine print "one available at this price VIN xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" If you don't see that part, you still drive 100 miles and get the SAME tactic pulled...only now it's totally legal. I'm almost betting this is the case with the wrench in question.

Negotiations for pickup are pending.

What? Was it on e-bay or something? I haven't been crusing... <EDIT> One thing I was going to mention, and it goes hand-in-hand with the 'throttle sensitivity' thread elsewhere is that Hillborns RARELY have a 'throttle return spring' as most people know it. Generally they rely totally on overcentered linkages which HEAVILY bias the throttle to the closed position so if a throttle linkage breaks, the ITBs return to idle. In addition, the springs used in their setups when cable actuated are almost always COMPRESSION SPRINGS. Like the old VW's used---the combination of a compression spring on the cable will PUSH the linkages towards the CLOSED position should the cable break, and the linkages being designed to not go over-center so they want to close naturally is the safest method for setting up the system for failsafe operation. Generally you won't find tension springs on the ITB section of any Hillborn or mechanical injection setup. It's all compression springs on linkages, maybe the occasional torsional spring on the throttle body itself... but tension springs (unless doubled up and inside each other) are just not used all that much. That was a uniquely American OEM kind of thing and even then most linkages were 'poorly' designed on the centers to close (the Corvair being a notable exception---NO SPRINGS! All linkage weight and angularity to close the throttles!) Keep that in mind when putting these things in, mechanical is always preferable to 'spring assisted' to move to a given point. If the spring breaks, that is where the ITB's will stay--and that may not be very good with an engine in "N" or with a broken driveshaft. It's the reason most of these systems also employ Toe-Loops so you can pull the pedal back up physically if something goes wrong. With a strong linkage and no slop, a toe loop is a lifesaver---LITERALLY!

Mine is 'old'! No O-rings just a nice line bore and a straight shaft with center pull (right where you usually hook up the bell crank for the metering block on the mechanical injection.)

Baffled pan and an Accusump. I have the small accusump in the passenger's floorboard/footwell area on my turbo 73---loose one turbo from oil starvation and you figure out Canton's Price is cheap insurance (cheaper than the baffled oil pan anyway!) in the end, I got a baffled pan as well!

Cool! Thanks, it's a Lisle, I can get them discounted through my wholesale discount at the NAPA store, now that I have a part number. I would never think of Amazon selling car tools. Amasing these internets! Again, thanks!

I have to agree with BJ on the Name Brand stuff. There is SOME stuff that I buy brand name because I like the way it feels, or it honestly does the job better than something cheaper (Snap-On Box Ends will fit where others won't...) But I stopped the Snap-On Worship when I paid $105 for their die grinder (it's part number at the time ended with "105") It got dropped on the floor and the air chuck broke off. No warranty there. Out of curiosity I bought a Harbor Freight Die Grinder that looked identical. Other than having 'Central Pneumatic' on it it seemed identical. Then I noticed the stamped 'japan' in the body. Damn it looked similar. Could it be...nah, never! I mean that one was $105, and this HF one was only $19... So I did what anybody would do: took them apart. Damn if the bearings werent the same NTN bearings, the rotor assembly had the same number stamped on the end... For all I could see the internal rotating parts of the air motor were IDENTICAL between the $19 HF model and the $105 Snap On model. Colletts seemed identical, and BOTH seemed to burn out in our plant usage in about 6 months. (Vane Packet gone...) Sooooooo, that was the last time I bought a Snap-On Pneumatic Die Grinder! Or most any other air tool from the brand name. Same went for the Blue Point Grinders. I found they were nothing more than Rebranded Black and Decker Professional Series pieces in different boxes (with less accessories) and for 2 to 3X the cost. I'll buy from the manufacturer, thankyouverymuch. That pass-through private branding BS is some MBA in Kenosha milking product name recognition and inflating the prices paid for no other reason than to generate false profits from nothing material being produced. When their pass-throughs get discovered they get upset, but so then do their newly-enlightened customers. Great way to foster brand loyalty: screw the customer by marking up something 300%, and then not offering the same warranty the OEM does! But we digress...

Yep, that's how you do it, cut out the center two barrels to make it fit on the L4. Same for the L28E manifolds. Though I don't know why someone would want them, the L20B(E) manifolds and L18E (SSS) had far larger runners than the L-6 manifolds did. They just didn't offer those engines here, we got the LZ18 Doesn't look like the manifold is cut. Getting new tubes shouldn't be a problem. Very interesting placement of the injectors on that manifold, my Hillborn has the injectors on the bottom and MUCH nearer the throttle plates.

5/8" = 15mm 0.625" = 0.6122" This explains the 'close fit needing to be sanded down a bit'! If you have a lathe you can make it niiiiice!

Primed the carbs with the electric fuel pump, drained the accumulated rainwater from the spare tire well that accumulated, and fired it off after 2 months standing on the rooftop parking of 'The Parking Spot Century' at LAX. Paid $783 ransom to extricate it from the parking hell it was in, and drove it home at high speeds on a sunny Saturday afternoon. Came across the valve caps yesterday while unpacking, so I guess they will go on next.

Competition cars will have issues on turns, where the oil sloshes away from the pickup. Jeff P did some oil pump testing and found when the oil pump was HOT (as in operating temperature) the clearances changed considerably, so checking them even on a new pump is worthwhile. Follow the recommendations in the How To Modify book on oil flow and smoothing of oil ports. That is one area where 'match porting' will pay in increased flow to the engine. To me it looks like F.O. went through the pump, I'd not reuse it when new are still available. I'd put it away for an 'emergency spare' maybe, but not put it back in the engine for competition use.

The hinges where they bolt to the body have up, down, fore, and aft adjustment. They are damned tight from the factory, but someone playing with the doors may solve that tightness, and the alignment goes away with road bumps or in my case simple storage on stands and the chassis sags. Who really knows? I didn't attend to it really closely, I put the doors on and they weren't really close, but I bolted them down as it was 'just for storage'...that ended up being from 1991 to 2009... It's gotten much worse the past ten years. Originally they were only misaligned and overlapping by a decimal. Now it's closer to 1/8" or more. But the door closed and that was all I cared about to keep the mice and crap out!

Do not drink and post!

Yeah, I have to physically lift it. The doors were removed a long time ago, (FRP) and when I bolted on the replacements I wasn't too close on alignment. Seems they went worse as time went by. I'm sure I have to realign the hinges. When it gets up on priority list. Right now, none of that happening.

I didn't see "Banning" in your sig till later. I had mine repaired at El Tapatio Tire in Moreno Valley. They are off Sunnymead Blvd behind/next to the U Haul Storage place, across from Grand Buffet, and directly behind the Sunnymead Drive-In Restaurant. They aren't the place that repairs them, but they have a place that did my stock alloys. Probably closer for you than going all the way into Anaheim. Wheel City in Corona may also be able to give you a place to go.

It looks like a Hilborn system, not the Eggers and Vickers, plus it looks longer. Definately it's a carburetted intake bolt pattern.

Well, you know what they say about assumptions...

That doesn't have anything to do with the door alignment, it's a pin to help transfer the spring tension to stop the door swing. The "pins that hold the pieces together" are what hold up the door. Grab the door frame with the door at a 45 degree angle open and lift/push down hard. You will see where your movement is---many times there isn't any. My 71 had "sagged" so that the upper rearmost portion of the door window frame is actually hitting the quarter window. It's a hinge alignment loosening issue in that case. Or from sitting on jackstands wrong... In any case, you can see how much 'sag' you have lifting on it and seeing where the pin is loose. Then replace the hinge. If it simply drops down when you open it, it may be misaligned hinges and nothing more.