Tony D

I think I would give the I.T. guys back at corporate a hemmorage if I used something non-listed on the company laptop. And out of respect for the mess they likely would have to clean up eventually, I don't press the issue and stick with non-squiggily IE... 'Cause that's the kind of guy I am. (Like the Tie-In with the earlier pontification?)

Atari! That was the decision we had to make, Atari or Amiga (Commodore...) We had a 'friend' who sold Ataris but I never trusted anything he said, so I went with the Amiga. Batted 1000 on that decision, BOTH never went anywhere in the end. But my graphics and video editing were a hoot back in the days of the Video Toaster...

There was a commedian (Daymon Wayans) who performed a hilarious sketch on "In Living Color" of a "Nation of Islam" inmate who continually used words improperly. That was hilarious, because it was a comedy act lampooing people in the real world who do it. They use the words improperly (or grossly out of the proper context) and end up showing their true ignorance. "The Baginification of the, wait. Let me reconsummate. The ***inafication of the moment is overwhelmed by the viliscimitude of the cortex in which it is being eaten!" A mind is a terrible thing to waste. "A Muck" is right up there with "Baginification"... In it's right context it hilarious. Outside of it..."not so much."

highly unlikely, I have seen severely bent valves just tear up the seats. Bent valves don't drop seats, improper installation (or cracking) does. I have VW's and Corvairs, I know about loose valve seats dropping!

Diary of one's daily posts. I think that was an Ozzy Album from the early 80's...

I have an Amiga 1000 sitting in a closet, right next to its replacement, the AT Shelled Amiga 2000 and ITS replacement, the Amiga 3000. For years I used the 18mhz Amiga as my browser because it was faster than IBM Based stuff. To this day I still miss being able to grab text from one application and transfer it (formatting intact including images) directly into my Desktop Publisher. I could do that in 1991 with Pagestream (came on Diskettes)... still can't do it with any Microbloat software... Down in the bottom of the same closet I think I have the old 'strap the receiver to it' modem as well as a cassette tape drive...

What is the projected cost for the airdam? I have run the damn G-Nose (more appropriately my 18 year old son...) up onto a parking stop and trashed the lower section. This would make for an easier repair than me glassing the pieces of my lower section back together. PM ME. I'm in Tokyo till the end of the month, and have ONE bag, 29KG in size. My allowance is THREE bags, 32KG in size... Maybe we can work something out (like a non-cut airdam coming back as a piece of luggage intact!) I'm supposed to be here every three months, BTW. Though I was last here in May. I guess if I got gumption, I could get Okamura-San to take me out and get one of these while I'm here... Hmmmm. You have scratched my brain...

You have a SERIOUSLY misadjusted carburettor! The PICT 34 will take ONE stomp on the gas pedal and start like CLOCKWORK when it's -42F outside. A rebuild kit for it is $6, take it all apart and then readjust it like the Robert Bentley Manual Suggests and you should have rock solid cold start reliability on that Beetle. Sounds to me like you have an issue with the volume adjustment circuit, and likely the mixture adjustment as well. The PICT34's are adjusted with a closed throttle and use a very small mixture screw, with the larger screw acting as a bypass around the throttle plate. When they have poor drivability it's usually because someone screwed up the mixture by instead turning out the volume screw---making it lean as hell. The Choke Circuit is too simple: Turn the electric element when the carb is stone cold and make sure the fast idle screw is engaged like it's supposed to be. Personally I disable the choke entirely above 40F, but when it gets colder than that I succumb now and let it auto-choke for a little of the warmup time. Two mandatory pieces of equipment when you are a noob aircooled VW Owner: John Muir's "Idiots Manual" (Vintage Spiral-Bound editions still available used on Amazon.com!) The Robert Bentley Official VW Service Manual for the vehicle. With those two items, there won't be ANYTHING you won't at least be able to look up and see how it's supposed to be done. And with VW's, that's usually a very narrow path!

Sounds normal to me. I have seen 240's start cutting out on lefthanders with 1/4 tank. We rarely used more than 11 gallons from the tank while running LeMons before getting feed issues, and we KNOW we had a good tank (NOS Sticker was still on the tank, and internal inspection confirmed the 'new' condition! They just don't handle well when the fuel is below 1/4 tank when you put any kind of serious G Force to it.

It's 'running amok' it's an Indonesian term when you get wild eyed and have no control. Indonesians in colonial times were known to 'run amok' and hack their Ducth Opressors to death with large cane knives and other items of farming. You can see it today in the lower provinces during the water buffalo races where they run for the whole day over a long course from town to town and province to province. The riders wildly flailing a stick with a spike in the end to urge the buffaloes along faster. They have special racing buffalo, devoid of hair and almost pink! They will be streaming blood from the flailing, and there are people on bamboo platforms who jump onto and knock off the drivers at the finish line. They are all wild-eyed and it takes a few minutes in some cases before they realize the race is over and they aren't on the back of the buffalo any more! RUN AMOK Sorry, it's up there with "Freeze Plug", "Irregardless", "Suposably",and "Mute Point" ... I digress...

JeffP's engine has a bit more poop than yours and even boiling the tires in first, second, or breaking them to a boil in third at 75mph the rev limiter catches it EVERY TIME. The only way to mechanically over-rev an engine is to put it (manual) in a lower gear and physically DRIVE it past the rev limit. Like down a 6% grade, or forcing a 2nd gear downshift engagement and dumping the clutch while you're still at 80mph... THAT will cause overrev and valve float/bending if not total catastrophic engine failure. If you 'over revved it' then something is wrong with your rev limiter, or you're using cheap electronics. The speed of light is a bit faster than an L-Gata accelerating a couple thousand rpms... As for the 'flat line' it's entirely possible you have stonewalled the turbo, or simply met the physical flow limitations through the turbine or some point in the intake tract. Jeff P is making about 200 HP more than you are, on a GT35R, and will not get a flat line if he runs 15psi and runs all the way to 8500+. Bump the boost to 22 or something like that, and it makes incrementally more power, but flatlines at 7000 with the same sloped ramp that it did at 15 to 17 psi. That, IMO is the turbo running out of flow capacity at that pressure. But what do I know about turbocompressors...

"How do I enable that, I get no red squigglies."

Yes!

Define 'popular application' Racer Brown cut cams not only for Datsuns but American Iron as well. So many cam manufacturers copy someting done by someone else, they really never DEVELOP the stuff on their own. Talk with Ron Iskendarian and you find their first offering (when Racer Brown was offering Assymetric Cams) was basically a BMW Profile. And to this day many of the 'other' Datsun profiles are out there that retain that original BMW profile! It works, but not as well as what they did in the mid-late 80's after shadow profiling and reverse-engineering the cam! Ron actually kind of laughs when he says "you can profile them today, it's an exact copy of what we offered originally just to be in the marketplace!" Very few innovators, many (too many) immitators. Who is John Galt?

How many different languages do I know to say this in an alternate fashion? Hai Si Ja Ya Yes Yep Yerp Yah, eh? Affirmative This is a good indication for what I said in the Forum Ettiquette Thread. Explicit answers are what people need, there is no effort to read and get the context it has to be pedantically written out three times at least before most people will get it.

Yes I did, the summation of the thread was "509 HP at 36psi". Then something about a TH400... "That's a lot of boost for the horsepower", probably 10 to 16psi higher than I would have expected. What's your point?

No son...that's... SQUEAL LIKE A PIG!

Yes, that modification will not pass integrity testing. It vents the filler neck to the ground. So if you fill up, the gas simply overflows on the ground by your right rear tire. Wonderful! No thanks, for the 15 or 20 minutes of putting some adapters on there, and running smaller fuel lines I'll retain my evap system so it doesn't dump raw, $3.00 a gallon gas on the ground after a fillup on a cool morning while the car stays parked in the lot outside work. Get hit from the rear in that car, PRAY! It's a Pseudo-Pinto waiting to happen! As I said, 'just because someone does something doesn't mean it should be done!'

"but I can't think of another vehicle I've owned that had an expansion tank" I can't think of one post-67 vehicle in the USA that doesn't have one(obviously my 62 VW Bus, 60 Corvair, 66 Corvair, and 66 VW Bus don't have any, they predate the legislation!) Pretty much most cars since 67 were mandated to control and make captive evaporative emissions. The Charcoal Cannister in any 75-on vehicle performs this function. Before that point in time, there were several allowable EVAP containment scenarios allowed. The 69-73 Datsuns many times used 'phase separation' (the tank) and 'Crankcase Accumulation' if you had any other Datsun 67-73 you had a car with a tank. Almost any car after 74 had a Carbon cannister for both expansion and evap control. The purpose of the tank is to allow for some place for the fuel to go with an absolutely full tank (supposedly it's 10% of total volume, I don't know maybe they count the 15mm hose volumes in that as well...) so that ONLY vapors go to the diverter valve on the left inner fender, and on into the crankcase for accumulation. That someone does something doesn't mean they did it right. I'll have to check out the thread. This may be interesting!

I don't think turbo cam technology has changed at all. Read the Racer Brown articles from 1972 and be amazed at how many people come up with a 'new idea' straight out of those technical papers...published nearly 40 years ago! Physics doesn't change. And engineered cams were always taking physics into account in the design phase!

Adjusting the bellcrank angles, or any number of things. But that will compromise the geometry that is set up and works. Learn to modulate your foot, it will take less effort, you won't have to change it back later once you figure out how to drive it, and disciplining your foot will pay dividends in ANY car you drive from this point forward. If the clutch is metallic ('aftermarket' doesn't tell us much) there is really no way to get rid of a harsh engagement save for running more pucks. An 8 puck will be more smooth than a four. And a Four puck will be more smooth than a three. If you put a two puck ferro-metallic clutch in there, you better be running Paddla-Traks on the dunes someplace because it will literally be an on-off switch that will break your seatback when the thing gets traction! I had a 3 puck in a car some time ago, and it was 'race only' the only slippage I got was from the tires on wet grass! That was the only time the car moved smoothly too!

I'm in Tokyo, it's in SoCal. Not for a week at least... And then only if I have the time to dig it out!

Curious you should mention that: 7 hours ago it was 5PM here, so what's your excuse again? Second, perusing the November "L-Engine Special" Magazine here outside Tokyo I found something interesting in one of the hard parts ads: ISKY CAMS! Yes, that's right, ISKY RACING CAMS advertized in a Japanese Hard Parts Ad by a local speed shop. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm what was that I was saying about engineering excellence in that other thread? EFI idles with the throttles CLOSED. This maximizes vacuum signals if you are running a MAP based system, and allows for FAR more precise air metering to the cylinders via a single 'idle bypass screw' with individual hoses to each runner (or a log like balance tube linking the runners). Using a Hillborn setup, I'd put the injectors in the air horns, and use the mechanical injector ports for the idle air bypass and balance tube connection... First thing you learn on EFI: Don't open the throttle plates to set your idle! Ask Frank 280ZX about it!

A hammer drill, 18" long bit, and a driver is all it takes to access a proper ground rod in the garage floor. It's easier than you would think. And if you put it in the right place, it comes in handy for all sorts of grounded crap. I actually have a properly grounded anti-static workbench (thanks JeffP) for about 20 minutes of work. Driving the rod is the biggest pain as I have to drive into Decomposed Granite at about 4 feet... the first 4 are lit butter. That last two feet takes a while!

Where does the expansion of liquid go on a cold morning fillup to 'full' without an expansion tank---overboard? Or is the crankcase diverter valve left in place and it just dumps into the oil in the crankcase? Or after elminating it, do you just not 'fill full'?