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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

    Before and after dyno results

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Follow the Megamanual!

    They step by step you.

    Turn off ALL enrichments.

    Get car to operating temperature however necessary.

    Begin conservative on fuel and spark.

    Trim fuel by AFR and Dyno Results.

    Trim Spark by Dyno Results and Knock Detector.

    Go back to Fuel.

    Go back to Spark.

    Usually three times is all it takes to get WOT Pulls dialed in "Rich Safe"

    Pull Fuel after Tourque Peak once spark is determined...

     

    After that hold load points one cell at a time playing with fuel from rich to lean...spark from retarded to advanced.

     

    Go back and work on enrichments one at a time to work on transients and got restarts.

    What are you using as a tow vehicle?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    " Still undecided overall, but right now I've been glancing at 2004 Land Rover Discoveries...7k towing capacity, not all that expensive, and somewhat tolerable for a daily."

     

    Oh, excuse me...Land Rover Discoveries were moved from "Truck" category WHEN again?

     

    FYAH...

    Refrigerant Cooled Intercooler Concept?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    Remove the efficiency losses of the water in The system.

    Run R134 directly in a proper exchanger off the turbo.

    Use a large Accumulator for the transients in btu loading on/off boost.

    Insulate everything and use a minute hole on the bottom of the piping to weep the condensate produced.

     

    Some engineering students at CalState Dominguez Hills did this setup on a Saab Turbo with proof of concept documentation.

     

    With proper engineering on the system more than enough horsepower is achieved compared to non-intercooled to compensate for the added weight. I think their weight / horsepower goal was 7lbs/hp and they achieved that while maintaining a consistent 5C inlet charge temperature on a 35C Ambient day.

     

    The top of the manifold plenum makes for a nice contact cooler for fuel supply and fuel return piping to homogenize the fuel temperature as well.

     

    If it helps, the car was black, and coined a phrase "we proved window tint makes horsepower!"

    What are you using as a tow vehicle?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    My dually was sold with the trailer for $3,500 last time the gas prices spiked.... Would not separate.

    For that price, it can sit around a bit. What I can haul in the Dually saves trips 2:1 on my 2008 F250, and likely 4:1 on the F150 I have now!

    There is a bitchen van conversion owned by PLN now up for sale...fits a Z perfectly... I would love to snag it, for a dedicated Z-Hauler it's perfect.

    I was sorry when I sold my Moby Van (1990 Chevy G30) no speed limiter like the E250 that replaced it, and rock solid reliable, towed a Z on a tow bar fast enough...

    Vacuum routing with MSA TB ('82 N/A)

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    The Black Smoke was caused by high vacuum sucking raw gas into the intake! That was probably gas dripping, it can get up there with a malfunctioning diverter diaphragm or vacuum sucking hard enough to pull liquid up the line. Depending on which line it is, if you fill your tank full enough, you can have liquid fuel AT the canister or very near it, and sucking hard vacuum will siphon that right up into the intake.

    You won't puff black out the back on an LSeries uncatalysed until into the low 10:1 or high 9:1 AFR's... Catalyzed and lit closer to high to mid 9's but getting hot and meltin' the cat!

    Carburetor on L28ET...?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Your buddy isn't doing you any favors with his ignorant misinformation. Please educate him now...

    7.4 CR simply means you can run crap gas on your carburetors, nothing more. VW's ran 7.0 CR for decades on carburetors. In fact most builders  on the air cooled stuff recommend only 7.5 as a maximum CR to keep the head temperatures down as the bump in power you get per 0.1 bump in CR is minimal. You really won't notice much of a difference between a 7.4 CR and 8.0 CR setup.

    I'm not sure "exactly what you are looking for" since you don't quantify it, but if it's the question 'will carburetors run on a turbo engine as an N/A?' then absolutely positively 100% yes, with no issues whatsoever.

    Improving E31 flow

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Go stick it on a flow bench and quantify flow at given valve lifts at 28" 

    If you are anywhere near 190-200 CFM on the intake, and around 60-75% of that on the exhaust you're likely maxed out and nothing much more will be done. 

    Find out where you are to know where you want to go.

    L28 4bbl EFI build - help/input wanted!

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    The cover was missing on the optics?

     

    I've seen a few CAS units that someone took that cover off, never knew why they didn't put it back. I retrofitted Opticals into cars that now have well over 110,00 miles on them without covers but they aren't as fine-sized as the Nissan Stuff.

     

    Some VW & Suzuki Distributors (and my high boost turbo) have a cap venting system that draws in filtered air from the air cleaner, to the cap, and then into the intake vacuum source. Keeps filtered, fresh air in the distributor flowing...meaning under boost there is a lot less chance of ionization in the cap and jumping spark somewhere other than where it's supposed to go.

    280z Emissions Woes

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    Most adjustments on the AFM render it useless.

    Have you checked your TPS to make sure you're rich at idle?

     

    If you run lean, your number go haywire from misfires.

     

    The cat is rarely at fault, and that fixing it would point to gross errors in the upstream systems. As stated above federal cars without cats easily should make 2.0%, and the Nissan upstream diagnostic limit is 3%. In other words a fail on your car big time! Truthfully, at idle the cat is cold and shouldn't really be doing anything at all... CO on a properly running system is generally at around 1.5~1.7% without a catalyst

     

    What is your vacuum at idle? Start there. If it's not 17-19" minimum, get your valve adjustment, timing and idle speed right. Generally idling higher is good as they tend to load up and misfire. If they have an upper limit on idle speed (in CA at one time it was 1,100 rpms, so you would set idle at 900, 950, or 1,000 to get best vacuum, and then go from there.

     

    Did you get the right injectors? Sure you didn't get Turbo Units instead? That would over fuel your car but not puf black out the back...

     

    That compression is 15-20# higher than mine and I pass fine.

     

    You mention EGR, which again should be off at idle and only slightly active at 2500. Normally that shows as a NOx high fail on a dyno test. Low compression would naturally lower NOx though! If you have a vacuum leak through the pintile on the EGR, from corroded EGR passages, leaking diaphragm...that could affect manifold vacuum to raise fuel pressure and run rich.

     

    The system is VERY dependent on having 17-19" Hg Vacuum in the manifold at idle to drop the fuel pressure 8.5~10 psi. If you got vacuum leaks...that will do it as well through a combination of lean misfire or rich condition from the FPR bias being off.

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