Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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The assumption the carb bowls have not boiled out dry is a bad one to make, even in frigid climates. Winter gas will prove extrememly volatile and can 'boil out' same as in the desert southwest if you have an unseasonably warm day (say it gets up to 30 when normally it's -10 outside and fourmulations take this into account).
My 71-Carbed 260Z will take extended cranking to refill the bowls with CA premium if I have a hot shutdown and leave it sit overnight. UNLESS I flick my little e-pump switch and prime the bowls. I use a facet pump inline up in the engine bay. I also use this pump when the car has been sitting at the airport for over a month.
If I prime the bowls and engage the starter system on the carbs (unless you got flat tops, it's NOT a 'choke'!) the car will fire off immediately. If not primed, much cranking is required to reprime the bowls.
As for Gear Reduction, the primary reason for installation on the ZX's was to keep system voltage higher so they didn't fry the ECU during cranking. If the battery drops to below 9V, some of the early ECUs would poof! Putting them on earlier cars won't do much for you (and in some instances they are actually HEAVIER than the starters they replace!!! So much for blanket statements...) other than stabilize system voltage during extended cranking.
If your float bowls are dry, a priming pump (like OEM installed on later cars, and had from the factory since day ONE in some markets for the 240) is the way to go. With a primed bowl and the starter system engaged, it should fire off pretty quickly. Running a transistor pump for 20 seconds is FAR less taxing on the battery than turning ANY starter to fill a float bowl by turning the engine over and running the mechanical pump.
The little ticking Facet pump will blow fuel right through the stock (or replacment) mechanical pump, and fill those bowls no problem, then simply stop pushing fuel once it's pressure limit is reached (around 3psi...)
Determine the cause, then go after it. Throwing parts will be expensive and may not solve your issue. But I put that primer pump on my car, and it's saved me with a nearly dead battery at the airport more than once! During the summer if it sits, that fuel goes away, period. The only way to fill it is cranking, or an e-pump.
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They only become a "hazzard" if you drive to the extremes.
Like driving on the freeway at 50 mph on a straight level roadway with no ruts? Being driven to a concours... Which was about all the driving it got.
That was the condition the show-winning 'all original' 260Z was running when it's left rear wheel catastrophically failed and took out the quarter panel. Less than 15K on the tires. They had to still be good. Tires are tires, they only gots 15K on them....
Old tires are dangerous. How many times a year do you go to vegas determines how old you will permit them to be and still drive on them...
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Check your CHT or CTS---if the engine temperature sensor is loose or off altogether, it will do this.
Any return line on a 260 or later will work fine with the ZXT fuel pump. Only the 240Z with it's 3/16" line will prove to be a problem at idle due to insufficient flow capability.
My bet is your engine temperature sensor is loose...
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That's a cut down stocker if I ever saw one!
What's it weigh, about 15#?
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mmmm ginger fish sauce.....gaaaaarrrrrgh!
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1 hand holding camera? Shouldn't both hands be on the wheel goin that fast??
At 173.325+ mph at Bonneville, the Land Speed Z is a "one-handed-ride"
We do not have the 'hood vents' discussed, nor do we have an Air Dam...
El Mirage, with talcum-powder dirt exposed between hardpack is more demanding... you can check those runs out on You-Tube: "9500 RPM Shiftpoints" or "Bad Day at El Mirage"
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I have an old Nomograph on a Bosch Dyno Sheet from when I was in Japan and dynoed my bone-stock L20A powered Fairlady Z (97PS)... They actually read KW, and then converted to PS.
I was going to dig it up, but someone beat me to it!
And the 600PS Blue S30 was from SSS (Speed Shop Sinohara) most likely, and it is the original "Devil Z" of the Wangan Midnight Series.
Yes, it can be. I've seen the car in person. Well, it was... don't know if it still 'is'...
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Ooooh! That's more than price competitive/comparable with Mr. Pollard up in Goleta...
Now if I hadn't just bought that Hillborn Setup...
Well, time to milk some more overtime I guess!
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"Also, I doubt anyone here would pull a head to replace a gasket on a car with 92k/192k (take your pick) and not have it surfaced , at least I would not. "
I think me an Blue Destiny are two that won'tresurface a head unless there is a REASON to do it. Channeling, warpage, something.
I pulled my head at 243,000 miles because I was SURE the 3/4 cylinder fire rings had blown and either the head or the block had channelled (by compression test alone 150, 150, 100, 100, 150, 150)...
Pulled head, NO channelling, nothing. Lapped the valves, and found they were not well seated. Drove the car 18,000 miles in the next three weeks (from SoCal to Kingston Ontario Canada, Boston, around most of the PNW, and the Great Lakes Circly Route)---no resurface of the head whatsoever.
Matter of fact, LAST WEEK I finally pulled the intake-exhaust gasket (FelPro Rectangular Gasket on a Roundport N47 head with the Rectangular Port Stock Exhaust Manifold on it) now 10+ years later after no issues whatsoever. Pulled it because the MSA collector flanges caught on something, jerked the exhaust, and broke the manifold...
Now it has a round port header which I will never use on anything else once that E88 gets here from Mr. Shewbrook.......
But I digress. Because it's off does NOT mean it needs surfacing! Doing maintenance for maintenance's sake just wastes your time and your money. Like BD and Braap mention, there ARE instances were it may be called for, and then it's due more than just a simple decking on one side....likely you are better finding another example in that case.
The heads surfaced start getting less and less serviceable. Shims only go so far. Eventually you end up with a head that can't be shaved at all any further.
The economics of just letting it run and replacing it are hard to beat compared to 'interim' repairs.
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Er... yeah! Some people are hard headed and don't get the hint... and it takes them longer to realize they should leave...(cough!)
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Er.... No difference other than the size of the door side impact beam you mean... right?
Everything else is minor (mirror mounting on GL's with electric mirrors---big holes that need to be filled on the skin, etc...)
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Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Now I have to make an inquiry before restoring the four-spoke Cragar SS's I have...
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RON is RON, but the pump rating may be RON, MON, or R+M/2 as in most of the USA.
The standard in USA is R+M/2.
Outside the USA depending on where you are, it could be any of the above combinations. MON is really the most important as it's a physical check of the fuel in an actual knock engine. Honda used a fuel in F1 during the turbo years that met the MON standard of 104 or whatever it was at the time, but it's RON was close to 70! Exotic blend, but it ran great as long as charge temperature was above 140F...so it would atomize. It wouldn't run your street car... but in the USA if sold for motor fuel it would have had a rating of 104+70/2 = 86 or basically 'regular'... It's actual performance was equivalent to 104 when run in the engine as the engine was designed around the fuel...
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Good Point on Circuit Breaker Sizing and Availability.
When I sited my place, I asked for the largest Residential Service I could get (250Amps to the Meter) and they about choked. "Your's is not to question why Mr. Contractor, yours is to give me what the hell I want!"
Down the road, with 50 amps to the house doing fine, a 30 and 50Amp circuit to my sheds behind the house... I still have plenty of power to play with... The CyberTig is multi-voltage and is a 100Amp draw. Too much for my dryer circuit, to be sure! (Which would make the house draw 100Amps total on the circuit.)
As you stated actually USING 240V appliances make the E-Bill go up quickly. Which is my impetus for keeping in Pete's good graces and my bid firmly in for his Kholer Powered Bobcat. I felt his Kaiser Jeep powered Lincoln Trailblazer was just a bit much...
As for moving the CyberTig, it was a bit more than 500#, and I used a 1-ton gantry I have at the house to lift it off since my forklift didn't have long enough forks. It's movement was restricted originally to a 10X14 pad of concrete I had between my sheds. Now with more concrete I can move it about more and more on it's roller cart (which holds two tanks, and the coolant pump as well as cooling fluid for the torch head.) Most of this stuff can be moved in a pickup truck, getting it off and placed can be an issue but a 4 hour rental of equipment may be needed to do it easily. Once it's down, likely it won't be moved for another 20 years...
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Questions back before guessing:
1) why is a 'head gasket change in your future'?
2) what is the current compression and leakdown per cylinder?
3) why do you assume the head needs resurfacing?
Without those being answered, anything is a guess and may not be remotely applicable to your situation. All tools needed to properly diagnose these items are less than $100 at Harbor Freight.
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A good Zklyon B treatment should give the interior a nice scent of Almonds as well...
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I bought a Hobart CyberTig that was bought new in 1975 when the shop opened. I bought it from the shop owner when he retired and closed his shop.
IMO, the older stuff is bulletproof, and if you are concerned about functionality I would lay money it will last you the rest of your life if it's currently running and being used (or recently retired).
The newer generations of welders use more electronics and this allows them to be much smaller (my cybertig is 5' tall on the cooling cart, and the bottle stands as tall as I am... but 300Amps at 100% Duty Cycle is more than I will ever need!).
But smaller IMO means heat. The old machines were sinks of copper to make the power and can stand a lot of use.
Hell, for what I bought mine for, I could probably get scrap copper pricing and recover all my money!
FWIW when this guy bought a new portable he got a Miller Bobcat. When he finally lets go of it, I hope to be there and snag it as well because I was there when that one was new, I know how he treats his stuff, and this was his baby! He was really happy with it, and got all the gadgets for it... Any of these name brands (Miller, Hobart, Marquette, ESAB, Etc...) will be a good machine. Big old machines may be old, and they will take up more space, but from what I've seen they last forever and anything in them that is a 'consumable' or 'possible problem' is very robust and usually simple enough to get replacement parts for even today. I had to replace a rheostat on mine because he said it was 'giving him problems' (you had to wiggle the thing at some positions of the rheostat)---no it wasn't available from Hobart for a decent price...but I could read the OEM supplier information off the rheostat and bought one for less than $5. I simply transferred the dials from the old unit to the new one (couple of set screws!)
Sure, it's not a new dial and scale...but it retains the 'patina' of the rest of the machine. Very important. Wouldn't want a shiny new dial on my dull old warbeast of a welder! Old Pete was amazed I fixed that issue so cheap and so quick /Old Immigrant German Dude Accent/ "I should have had you by the shop more often, I was fiddling with that damn knob now for 15 years! If it was only $5 to fix it, I would have fixed it, but it was only once and a while...but it wasn't right and it always bugged me. But not $85 worth of bugging me! But yah, $5 worth of bugging me for sure!" LOL
I wouldn't worry too much, that's a good unit. Probably more than you will ever use. Jsut make sure the low-amperage settings have decent resolution to do thin work. They usually do, but if it came from a heavy welding shop (say shipyard or heavy pipeline fabrication) sometimes those are special built 'strippers' and won't have fine controls on the lower amperage settings. My cybertig has a setting where the max is something like 5 or 10A, and my footpedal regulates that from zero... I think I could repair soda cans on that setting! If I was good enough. I'm still in the 'burn through dammnit!' stage when it gets that thin!
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This goes to the spot boiling tendency. What you get with Evans NPG is the same equivalent decrease in spot boiling tendency as you would get were you to run a 30 or 45psi radiator cap.
What you end up with is the thermal reserve of the radiator is reduced 20% due to the decreased heat transfer possibilities of the coolant.
Were you to run the same system with water and the higher pressure cap, you would not experience any reserve reduction. The reason you don't see any increase in the coolant temperature is that you have a radiator capable of rejecting the heat at the load point you are monitoring.
Run the engine at 100% power on a dyno for an hour, with each coolant...then tell me what your temperatures are.
JeffP was running pure Ethelyene Glycol, and did not go 'runaway' with his engine, but found the equilibrium point one day climbing a mountian grade at a constant boost situation. Because of the coolant used, no overboil was experienced, but it got hot. In the same situation, Evans would go about 10% longer due to better heat transfer than EG.
The radiator ultimate rejection will determine equilibrium point. It is set at X BTU's an hour. If you can transfer heat FROM the engine TO the radiator at 100%, and your heat input is below that rejection point, you will have stable low temperatures.
If you inject MORE heat than it's capable of rejecting, your heat will rise in the system to whatever equilibrium is obtainable.
Under boost, effective transfer is the FIRST problem. Evans helps with this in that it won't spot boil and insulate (but water can do the same thing with enough head blanket pressure.)
After effective heat transfer from the block to the fluid is obtained, rejection is the next step. That means radiator and flow through the respective circuits...
In all their testing, Electramotive never had a DNF due to cooling at power levels between 700 and 1000 HP.
They ran (as most racers are required to do) straight water and a high pressure cap, and some astounding flows through the engine due to coolant passage modification. They used a standard L-Series water pump (may have been LD pump...) and nothing supplemental to boost flow externally.
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The band aid approach is just that... The AFM will only affect the ratios below 3500 rpms, after that it goes to a preprogrammed fueling curve and you are throwing 50% more fuel (to use KTM's example) starting at that point.
The AFM will only alter the delivered flow so much (say 30-35%) from the preprogrammed curve---so if your injectors are 50% oversized the most any tweaking would give you would be 35%, leaving you 20% overfueled.
Similarly with O2 correction... it is limited in most cases to 10%, after that the ECU defaults to a programmed 'limp home' curve which is pig rich to begin with... so you tweak your AFM to get the O2 to take you within 10%....then drop the fuel pressure so your fueling is correct....and you end up with the proper fuel curve for the engine without any breathing mods. Seems like a lot of work compared to just leaving it alone.
If you DO modify the engine, then the tweaks become even more detailed, or can involve grabbing parts from other vehicles, rewiring, etc etc etc...
FWIW Megasquirt is $400 assembled and shipped to your door. With that, a couple of keystrokes and you're set. With an ability to precisely tailor the engine AFR over 144 load points. Not three operating 'ranges' which are vague and not programmable.
That's the LONG answer. The SHORT answer to your original question is: "NO"!
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"Need"? I don't need no stinkin' "Need"!
Like George Carlin said: "I wanna!"
I believe that is a sin. It's written someplace: "Though shalt not wanna!"
Seriously though, the thought came directly to the Hillborn having screw in EFI Bungs available for the conversion. Thought "oh, man..."
Plus having the injectors, barrel valve, and everything means I could theoretically take a step back in time up at ElMirage and run an old-school Methanol Powered car for some 'F' (fuel) records. There's enough pumps and other crap circulating out there from circle track guys it wouldn't be all that much to make a complete system and then just buy some pills to set mixture.
(And those guys at the 'other site' would chomp their teeth at the thought of me 'going backward in time' to run MFI!)
I think the head will go someplace useful sooner rather than later...
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Oh, I guess you found out! LOL (RE: Other Post!)
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But didn't you know? He was selling parts again. I just bought his Hillborn setup...
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I'll have to talk to you about that plenum adapter setup...
Then again, the EFI conversion (injector) part will be easy for me, Hillborn makes a retrofit kit for their setups. And I now got the Hillborn setup! But that still leaves the one like yours that I will have to convert. How are you mounting the injectors, in bungs near the plenum (like you said, before the plates)? I don't want to modify the manifold at all.
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Sorry (on behalf of JeffP) for those who wanted that ARE Dry Sump Pan as well...
Power Rating Question... Converting PS to HP?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Built early/mid 80's. I saw it in 1988 or 89. I've got it in some Carboys of that period I believe.