Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
free engines you say...
-
crap, my GPS is up in the room.
As I was riding the bus from Kawagoe to Narita last month, I was popping in marks on my GPS for the junkyard industrial areas on the main highway through Chiba. It's hard to see the JY's over the fences the way the road surface is sunken compared to the banks of the roadway. But in the top tier of a tourist bus, you see into the yards OVER the fences! It helps to use Google Earth, everyplace I noted, you could see on Google Earth later.
Missing you by a week or two, heading back there in February...
Outside Kuala Lumpur now...
-
I'm out of town till 2nd week of February, any interest in scanned versions of 1988 vintage phosot showing a TC24B1 Headed, 3.3L with three HKS Twin-Power CDI's and 50mm Mikuinis? I took several rides in it at the time... does that count?
-
Weber has no provision for cooling bodies, Mikuini, being an OEM fittment in hot climates, has them.
Advantage Mikuini.
I don't think a dead-headed fuel pressure feed scenario can properly be regulated without a Pulsewidth Modulated Variable Speed Fuel Pump---correct me if I'm wrong but somewhere in the system is a check valve, regardless of the e-cheaps dial a regulator installed. When the engine is shut off, fuel gets hot, expands, and sinks the floats off the inlet jet making for a high float bowl level (and possible hot restart issues).
With a return line and proper bypass FPR, this can never happen if components are working.
With a returnless fuel system, it happens every time the car is shut off.
Backpressure regulation of the fuel rail to tripples is the most efficient and precise way to meter fuel equally to all carb inlets. With a restrictor style 'regulator' all you do is overwork your fuel pump and run the chance that the last carb in the line is the first to run lean (nice for #5/6 which run hottest anyway...)
If you have Webers, you have to insulate against heat, there is no way to run a cooling body. Wayne Calder had Mikuinis on his 3.2, and would percolate like crazy in the summer heat in SoCal. The addition of cooling bodies made it like night and day, afterwards the car ran in hot stop and go traffic like an EFI vehicle. No more stumbles, gas smell, bucking surging, etc...
If it gets hot, Mikuinis are the only way to go, if you're stuck on carbs. Most of the area north of AZ,NM, and SoCal have enough aerosols in the atmosphere to really cut the UV radiation to the tarmac, and consequently the air going through the radiator and into the engine bay is likely very close to ambient. In the perviously mentioned states, on an 85 degree F day, the thermal layer into the engine bay, BEFORE passing through the radiator is close to 130F. For all those who pooh-pooh a 160F thermostat, keep in mind that air coming off the radiator will likely be within +10F of your thermostat rating. Nothing I like more than blowing 200F air onto the carbs and components in the engine bay...
It's a system, people put bliners on and look at one thing at a time, have the best components imaginable, and can't run worth a hill of beans when it gets hot because they didn't look at the package as a whole.
-
In short, Daeron made the same mistake 1FastZ did when making the statement 'the cap gives you pressure in the system, the pump only makes flow'...
As Oz mentioned, there is 10posi in the block at idle BEFORE any blanket pressure adds to the NPSH at the inlet to the pump. The pump imparts flow, to be sure, but the flow against the RESTRICTION of the thermostat or orifice or block internals causes that flow to diffuse into PRESSURE. Block pressure will be close to 40+ psi at speed. This is cold. Blanket pressure will add to this directly.
It is THIS pressure that combats the spot boilling phenomenon. Our heads are particularly prone to this in some way, as even with STOCK engines it's not unheard of to get runaway overheating in SoCal on even moderately temperate days with only a bad radiator pressure cap.
There is a reason Electromotive ran 3 bar + blanket in their big horsepower car, it fought that phenomenon quite effectively. The pump will add even more pressure to that. It's the differentiation between static pressure (the cap) and dynamic pressure (that imparted by the flow of the pump meeting restrictions.
Understand Electromotive increased the flow capability of the engine some 300%, and ran a 3 bar pressure cap. It's like the discussion on boost. Sure, you can boost to stratospheric levels and make 300hp at 15psi. Or you can port your head and increase flow to get 300hp at 8psi. If you have adequate blanket, and a properly flowing block and head, the electric pump may be all you need. But short of that static blanket, you will need the mechanical pump to force the flow and MAKE dynamic pressure where it's needed (in the block and head) to combat spot boiling and the results shortly thereafter.
The 'hole' you are thinking of is the addition of blanket pressure. Go look at some high dollar people running electric pumps in CONSTANT SERVICE (roadracing, not drags or short sprints) and you will find very high pressure radiator caps on their cars. They have the flow, and in this case the cap pressure is their insurance against spot boiling. If you run a standard cap, likely there is the possibility that you can run into problems with the lower flow of the electric pumps.
Wasn't GM using an electric pump on one of their V6's? If they have optimized the cores for flow, and were attentive to casting surface finish, this may be possible to do---when the OEM's start doing it, the technology has come of age for durability and warranty consideration. Till then, it's limited usage on lower output mills.
-
NASA has just announced the cutting of the price for the surplus Shuttles after they decommission the fleet soon. Due to maintenance required, they are dropping the price of the shuttle (some assembly required) from $42mil to $28mil.
Anybody who knows me, knows I'm a sucker for a fixer-upper, and at this price it's almost too good to let pass by. Besides, it will really P.O. Branson if I get one and he can't have it!
Whaddya guys think, sell off the shark car and go for H2 Green-Burning Rocket Power?
You think I can swap a Chevy in there to cut fuel costs?
-
HIF 6's, gaaaarrrrgggghhhh!
-
What, yours doesn't go 160+?
Mine does 173.325mph, and I shift at 9500...
-
"A hybrid of the two is just a CF IMO. With all the effort need to install an EFI pump, surge tank, larger return line, etc. etc. to run EFI, you might as well just go all out EFI. Or stick with carbs."
Totally agree! Hell, strip out the venturis, turn the carbs into ITB's---that's the plan for my crate of 40PHH's out in the shed anyway. Screw some injector bungs from MSD in there, and run a 12X12 megasquirt. Carbs...er... 'blow'!
-
Is the rubber portion of the dipstick in the right place.
Over the years, they can get loose, especially if the owner is really brutal in pushing the dipstick back in for some repressed phallic reason.
In these instances, the rubber seal stopper on the stick moves, and you can have the wrong 'false high' reading on the dipstick. Compare it to another one. I'm 8500 miles from mine or I'd give you a tip-to-sealing shoulder dimension.
Someone with access to their dipstick can measure it. Just hold your dipstick in your hand and whip out the measuring tape. We can compare dipstick measurements later, when I return...
-
Dune Buggy dot com is usually a good site, that the totally neglected the modulator ring as the primary enrichment device for blowthrough carbs is amazing to me.
Basically an orifice plate roughly equivalent to the diameter of your main venturi. Under N/A and low boost situations, you get no enrichment. As flow increases, the vented pressurized air to the flow bowl increases at a marginally faster rate than that in the main venturi, causing the fuel level to rise and the main circuit to go rich, in porportion to the ammount of differenital. Very effective. You go 'rich overboost' which is the safe way to go.
I guess 'TimSystems' wants to sell his controller more than providing full disclosure on the subject he's talking about. Such is life when you sell things for a living I guess: "My way is better, since I sell it!" Sad.
If you think this setup is 'uncommon' in a Z, you just aren't looking in the right places, and are probably 24 years too late to see them all over like they were in the 80's in the JDM...
-
Not at a power level consistently to tax the system to require them if all is up to snuff... but if he starts making 5 minute full boost blasts in 5th gear down the interstate...
"I realy like my turbo setup but it eats fuel on boost."
My personal best with triple blowthroughs was 4.5mpg....daily driving it in commuter duty I was getting 17.5, which was better than the worn-out SU's I had on there to get it to pass smog!
"XNKE I measured that cam while at Delta cams with my dial indicator. It does measure .480 lift."
If you saw 0.480" lift on the cam, that equates to a 0.720" lift on the valve. Normally gross lift on an L Cam is limited to below 0.434" to fit through the cam towers. If you meant valve lift, that is a normal enough number. If the ramps are assymetric you can have a steep ramp on one side. If you have a symmetric cam, the ramps and total time at lift is far less. L's like assymetric cams.
-
Not sure what helicoils cost in the states, but the kits are expensive up here... wouldn't it be cheaper to buy new (or used) lug nuts?
BINGO!
NEW Lug Nuts new are under a $ at AZ, for the time taken to do this, and the cost of the inserts...you would be well ahead to just buy new.
Not to mention the insanity of using a helicoil on a NUT.
I mean, deep open-ended hex titanium or aluminum racing lugnuts, sure you want a strong thread of stainless steel and not AL or TI for the repetitions you will put on them changing tires.
But on stock lug nuts?
-
I'd consider the Apache before the ZX. Mainly because of the price.
Maybe Frank 280ZX...
-
Maybe pass out flyers at the Group Z Meeting, second Thursday of every month at Fuddruckers in Buena Park (same place for longer than I can recall, and that's 1991...)
-
Look under the valve cover on the link I gave.
Look closely...
Muahahahahaha!
-
I am getting wood over the vintage engine. Oooooh so badly it is desired...
The Moser is neat, but not in the same way the second one is!
My preference runs to Schubeck's DOHC Efforts. If you see it, you will see why.
(Secret)
-
I gave mine 1/2 turn preload as I recall.
The biggest thing, as you noticed, was the quadrant angle not being correct.
Should be very soft to the touch, especially with the S30 pivot setup.
Make sure the linkages are the same, the arms are at the same angle, and that the throttles are all balanced---no difference in flow front barrel to back. if you have a twisted shaft the one will stick all the time. To compensate you end up having to open them all slightly, and that puts your idle speed all to hell! Best to idle them closed and use a bypass circuit for idle.
-
Cotter-Pinned Hammered-On lug nuts beats me, hands down.
I stand dumbfounded! LOL
-
How about a "Daeron Mulligan" regarding the L20, L20A, and L20B.
You see, FIRST there was the L20. Theromstat housing was on the other side, and valve cover was way different (More Mercedes-Like with hold down bolts in the center).
THEN came the L20A...
THEN, well later in 4 cylinder L Engine development came the L20B, and even later the LZ20.
I figured I wasn't going to parse the semantics when he called it an L20, which was NEVER offered in any S30 Platform. It was started with the offering of the L20A.
At least nobody claimed a 'four cylinder Z' they say they personally saw way back when in some guys barn that 'came from the factory that way, all original' (substitute 'Corvair' and the same urban myth exists...)
Semantics? Semantics anyone? And L20 is not an L20A. And I'm sure Alan T. has some photos to prove that one. I know he does! LOL
-
I tried posting this yesterday but my fat fingers deleted it....
Got to taking a car apart this past weekend, and found the lugnuts 'mushy' to come off...
Figure it was a past cross thread, dirt in the threads, whatever. But it never gets any better. All the way off thing kinda is hard to remove.
Get it off, lug stud is O.K., lug nut? What? That....
That....
That looks like a Helicoil!
:shock::shock:Sure enough, I peel it out and it's a thread insert. Someone helicoiled a STOCK lug nut. Meh, says I, and over the fence it goes to the neighbors never-mowed back 40. I don't want that anywhere around.
Now, not to be outdone in a Cheap of Cheap, it went quickly to not simply cheap, but ignorant, then to fullblown stupidity.
Long story short 13 of 16 lug nuts were helicoiled. 2 of the remaining three were thread-pulled and ONE COUNT'EM ONE was a perfectly good stock conical seat lugnut.
I got three words to describe that experience, acronymed as follows:
"W.T.F."?
-
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh...MUST... AVOID... POLITICAL... RANT!
Megadittos....
-
That Weber 45 is a colossal fail. They tried it on Corvairs and honestly had better luck reaming Jag 2" SU jets oversize and using hand tapered brazing rod needles to supply the fuel.
A single 45DCOE no matter WHAT jets you run and WHAT venturis you run will not be able to supply enough fuel for ANY serious amount of power.
Honestly a Rochester 2G would be as good....
come to look at it closer, that's a Crown Kit, with a Corvair E-Flow on it, using hte Clarks or Otto Parts adapter. I can attest that setup is sh*t!
Your only hope on it would be to run a TWM ITB with some 1100cc injectors. THEN the frame of a 45DCOE could supply enough fuel for some power....
Yeeeech!
Am I reading that right? $1500 asking price for a Non-Windshielded Z? MAN my inventory just went up in value by a factor in that case!!!
-
Make sure the engine doesn't have the 8qt Nissan Competition Sump on it...
But even then, using the dipstick on level ground still works. Fill till full, run engine and check for leaks, stop engine, check and top off to operating level.
:shock:
400hp N/A 3.2L How is this happening?!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
It's old news in Japan...
As they say "expand your mind...and your rpm peak"
Apparently they haven't heard of the 7500 rpm limit on strokers due to that explodo-harmonic issue.
Must only happen on export-bound engines...