Tony D

Didn't they have their sleeve/block top extender for the RB315 on display? I would think a kit that bunmps the RB26DETT to 3,138cc's would be of more current interest to the clintelle here than a whiz-bang edition to an SOHC design that has proven it's worth to well over 700HP... I mean, where's the 1200HP OS Giken Engine Dyno Slip? We all know the Electramotive Car was running around with 800-1000HP depending on boost levels back in the early 80's running primitive turbo and EFI/Spark control... OS seems to have stayed in it for development, they have to show me the worth of the modification, becasue the headwork to get an L Series to that kind of power level is well shy of a small precentage of the cost of that TC24B1 head alone...

Says the man with the LN2 Dewar at work...

Try to go someplace that sells it in 'pellet form' it's a lot easier to spread, and gives a much more uniform dispersion than a block of it broken up by hand. They look like little fish-food pellets, up to the size of packing styrofoam pellets. The smaller the better. Broadcast it on and let it go for a while. Just do it with the garage door open, it will displace oxygen, and you will start breathing really fast if it's deficient... you will just pass out if the O2 displaced in the cavity was less than about 15%. (Meaning, don't throw it on the floorboards then close the doors with the windows up, coming back to that and opening the door can cause you to pass out with one full breath and fall onto the floor in the car...making things much bleaker for your survival!) Ventilate well.

Hey, what's not to love? M5 making 345HP, with the ability to twist to 7200 rpms? Engine, Controls, and Six Speed Manual Transmission for under 2500 Euros? Considering what someone in Europe would pay for "Exotic Japanese Speed Parts" I'm thinking, yeah, that's WAY cheaper! I think Frank mentioned he got his for 1500 Euros. They're everywhere there. Hell, the guy is driving around in an Armored 5 Series Wagon they're so cheap! ARMORED! And from what I hear, on the Autobahn, that 2-Tonne Panzerwagen will WALK a Eurospec 350Z at 160kph and never need to look back!

Probably gas weld over the RHD VIN and surface condition it... it will look like it was never there unless they x-ray it.

Look around for photos of the San Antonio Convention in...2004? I took it there loaded with three Rubbermaid tubs. Went 18,000 miles in 3 weeks with that thing behind me. I got the idea from all the SCCA guys here in SoCal that had a truck tool box on the front half, and their racing slicks chained to the back of the trailer with no decking on it, works great like that. When I built mine, it has all sorts of options to take the deck off, or screw things down to the deck. I can hold a 48Qt Cooler on a boxed frame I put on the tongue, and I carry two spare wheels underneath the deck, as well as some hardened chain and watersealed locks... when I get to a hotel, I chain it to a lamp post through the spoked wheels and it ain't going nowhere with the tongue lock on it! Way too much effort. Hell, I spent more for the aluminum diamond plating on the deck and weight-capable tie downs than I did on the damn trailer! I got some photos, but nothing online that I know of... I got a nice one of it in front of the Mackinac Bridge (yeah, you wouldn't think it was on the way back to SoCal from San Antonio, but neither was the Smoky Mountian Parkway, either (see how that 18K rolled up?) It's a great tower behind an S30. My only caveat would be to not run an R180 with a 3.90 gear and take it through the southwestern desert at 85mph for 14 hours+ at a stretch...unless you got a diffy cooler. If you plan on towing in an S30, do it with an R200.

Re: Post #13 Roosty, it looks like you are about to make a very vulgar tongue gesture in that photo... blawalalawalalalawal!

"I want torque but still be able to pull it to 6000rpm on steep hills in low range." Ain't Happenin'... Might I suggest a BMW M-5 V8 better suits your needs. Discuss with Frank Poll in Utrecht, he knows the tricks mounting that powertrain where an L28 once sat... Cheaper than the stroker from what I understand as well...

Magnetic Chuck in Surface Grinder makes short work of the lash pads...

Like Oz mentioned a radical adjustment by 'accident' of one tooth slipped on the big cam gear (what is that, something like 9 degrees) really changed the engine's manners. It had a bunch of torque in the lower rpm ranges, but was absolutely flat at 5500 rpms. As in you really didn't want to even run it past that point as it felt as if you were actually slowing down (like a governed go-kart doing downhill!) But from the stoplights and around town it was a really torquey change, and that was a stock cam. The Racer Brown articles go over what does what on a camshaft, it's not duration you are looking for, but altered timing events and if anything more lift. Stock cams generate pretty good down low torque, but by altereing the valve events earlier you may pick up some more low end at the obviousl sacrifice of higher rpm performance. In a Patrol, likely that is acceptable. Probably in a 280ZX as well... ;^P

Truthfully, I have a smaller "Harbor Freight" trailer, the 1/2 sheet size one... Diamond plate over a double 3/4" plywood deck and an 1100# capacity. It easily tows behind the Z, and I've taken it across country at illegal speeds (12" wheel version!) I put tie downs on it, and I can fit two engines (L28) on it, and strap them down tightly. It's actually pretty darned handy when I got to go to work and don't feel like burning 10 gallons of gas to get there and back just to stop by the yard and pick up the odd engine or tranny. Keeps it out of the back of the Z and I get 4X the fuel economy! But it won't load up for the 'big half-price day weekend parts buying extravaganza" like the old Moby the Molester Van did!

That was kind of my point... "If we are going to use Darwin Participants as the basis for deciding what parts hauler to buy, maybe they shouldn't be installing their own parts!"

Nice Smelt!

Goldfish said it fine---why narrow your powerband when you don't have to? The ability to take the car through a corner in the same gear over the most rpm range possible will return the fastes time because the car is known to be 'driveable', gear selection becomes less important, you can run more gear out back for better economy or higher top speed, etc... It's why big V8's are so happy in our little Dattos: they run to 4500 in stock form, but offer scorching performance because of torque. Boost threshold means wider torque plateau. Aside from that... You are making the assumption that the turbine side is his problem---it's not,vit's the compressor side's ability to flow more air! (or less air at a given point.) While a .82 housing might slow down the compressor wheel and 'solve' the surge because it's operating with less flow... you also don't make boost, and STILL run out of compressor wheel at the same point.

I know I got my dually for dirt cheap. Whoodathunkit that I would have put 5000 miles on it this first year alone!?!?!?! I was figuring half that, IF that! And I've only spent 20 days in my office this year!

Is it just me, or does anybody else see that with an "MFP" badge on it, and want to start screaming at the top of their lungs like a lunatic: "LAST OF THE V-8's MAX!" Too bad it's a 76, too much hassle for me to bother with for a daily driver... I'll just put the 350 into the Opel GT I got...

in deference to all this sushi and sake talk, it's 2138 in Kawagoe Japan, so I think I will go have some warm sake and cold sushi myself around the corner from the hotel... Suffer in the traffic!

Stonewall is not as bad as surge. Surge is much worse. I would not make the generalization you made about boost pressure stopping. Stonewall would be more likely to be seen as pressure coming to WG pressure, and as the engine speeds up and sucks more air, you see the boost start dropping off no matter what you do, or you can't make more boost when turning up the WG dialaboost thingamajig. If you are using less flow than the turbo produces, you will be able to boost more, until you surge. If you are flowing well, the turbo should technically be able to flow more as it speeds up, as it has a non-linear production rate...but if it can't keep up then you are into stonewall. Most manufacturers give a PPH or Horsepower rating for their compressors. When you are near the HP maximum, or beyond it...chances are you are nearing a stonewall point. On a GT35R with a restrictive head, you might start surging at 25psi, and see the dyno do one thing, well below 600 HP (Minimum Flow Surging for the pressure being attempted.) With a good flowing head/cam like JeffP's, you will see the engine make say 658hp at 21psi, but nothing more at 25... Matter of fact, the power peaks at a slightly lower rpm, then plateaus almost flat as the RPMS cross 7000 onwards (whereas at 21psi the plateau didn't start till 7400 rpms)... This is the compressor not being able to flow any more. Not a flow restriction issue, a compressor delivery issue.

A Pickup can have an unsecured engine come through the back window just as easily as an unsecured engine can roll around in a van. At leas the engine will hit the base of your seats, instead of being valuted to the back of your head. Seriously, if we're using Darwin Award Contestants as our models of propriety for parts hauling, then they shouldn't buy anything and leave the car work to prefessionals. Most Cargo Vans are sold these days with heavy steel or mesh partitions for 'work vehicles'---more of them I see than trucks with a protective covering over that 'whack da back o my haid winder'... Besides, you can fit more in the van, I had close to 13 feet of laydown room in the back. Ain't gettin' that in no pickem up truck! Plus, when you're in the junkyard, nobody can see whats inside... Having had $10,000 of tools ripped off makes you cognisant that something without windows and a steel partition preventing ingress from the passenger's compartment just might be a good thing... Anybody here had stuff go missing from your truck bed while parked at the junkyard? (Raises Hand)

A GT35R on a 3.5 Liter and a GT35R on a 3.0 Liter are two different things. JeffP's making 658+ to the wheels on a GT35R at 7500rpms... "Choking the hell out of it" might be an opinion, but I wouldn't state it as fact... Most of the time cars fall flat on their face at 5500-6000rpms is because they are using some permutation of stock cam timing. If you are throwing boost at it, you will make hellacious numbers with hellacious boost, but not above that point. All you do with a larger A/R on the exhaust housing in narrow the powerband. A .63 A/R on an L28 will kick in at a boost threshold of 3400 like clockwork and make full boost. And pull to 7500+ if you have the cam and headwork to accompany it (till you stonewall the compressor section). But run that same car with a stock cam, and you still come on at 3400, and run to 5500-6000. Now, put a .82 on there. First example now starts with a boost threshold of 4500 rpms, and will pull till the compressor stonewalls at the same point, around 600-700 HP at 7500-8000 rpms. Result: Narrower Powerband. Second example, boost threshold is now 4500, and pulls to a peak at 5500-6000. Result: Narrower Powerband. With the numbers being reached, airflow through the compressor is nearing maximum. It's not a bigger A/R on the turbine side he needs for more power, its more flow from the compressor side of the equation. Though admittedly the flow at only around 380 HP should not be anywhere near stonewall. Nearer to 700hp, you're stonewalling, the compressor will physically not flow any more air thorough it, you need a bigger compressor.

Moby Van: White Chevrolet G30 Cargo Van, no windows. Amazing what they can carry, 2 L28ETs, 5 FS5C71B Tranny's, Two People, and a complete array od test and diagnostic equipment for Atlas Copco Dry Screw Compressors... Not only can you haul parts, you can cavort around preschools and highschools looking for victims in total anonomyity... Kinda like this, but less obvious:

Curiously, I'm wondering what you're going to do about the VIN, since the RHD firewall has one on the right side, and the LHD one is on the left side... This just now occurred to me...since the RHD Dash doesn't have one at all...

I use the piece from a 280Z, and simply cut the piece that goes into the socket that fits on the firewall if needed. It allows you to use the same piece whether you are using DCOEs or SU's. It's a two piece design, which telescopes. You can make it fit almost anything!

Spraying onto the port wall builds a puddle, the aim of the EMS is to keep this puddle consistent so as to have proper fueling during transient activities. When you rapidly open the throttle valve this 'tau' layer of fuel will evaporate rapidly and then afterwards create a transient lean spot. The 'accel pump' feature of many ems compensates by using rate of throttle position travel to preload this wet layer for the ride through of rich-lean-injector lag time... When you have a wet puddle there, it has to be there or you will have a heluva time getting the mixes right. As long as the puddle remains constant in size, AFR's will remain stable. The trick is at lower openings is when the changes of throttle angle are the most severe and the flow differences effecting the puddle can be drastic. This is where sequential shines. As long as the puddle on the runnner remains CONSTANT, it will not affect you---it's like it wasnt' there. You will be able to run and tune around it...it will make cold starting easier, but hot restarts slightly more difficult (depending on time after shutdown of the hot restart). I read a nice article by a guy from GMI about this puddle effect and how it works, it really made a lot of sense from the standpoint of understanding why the aftermarket EFI stuff does what it does. Basically his statement was you make the puddle, then you maintain it. The closer you are to keeping the puddle the same size all the time, the better the car will run and drivability will not be affected. Really, these cars won't smoke black out the tailpipe till low 10's in the AFR... visual clues of smell and smoke are llong since gone for real tuners, you need instrumentation. Sealing of the injector tips is a cheap check: the seals are $3 at Autozone, buy a set find out and post the results. The Stock stuff goes around the pintile higher up than you think. I have taken standard o-rings and slipped them on the pintile cap and had them seal just fine. It's pretty forgiving, like BRAAP said, they float, all you need to do is apply a little pressure and they seal. For $3, for the whole set of 12, even if you are throwing the big body units away----why not try and put it to rest for certian?

Altering the timing events has a drastic effect on lower end torque. An adjustable cam gear and some dyno time will maximize your power using a stock cam and some tweaking to get the torque curve down lower in the RPM range. BTW, what is that on your bonnet? It...loooooks like....a Lincoln...Continental......hoood ornamentation..... Hmmmm, and L28 Powered Truck... This could come in Handy in the USA. I will make a note of it, and put it on the list with the DOHC Opel Engine to put in the container...