Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I've got the small primary one, it's the boring of the secondary that will take some doing.
Though having a spare would make the initial experimentation less daunting...
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A 60's Coleman Aircraft Tug had it...
Separate tiller for rear and front. We would set the rears at 45 and the fronts at 45 and crab down the taxiways...
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Er...yeah, I don't see 'project z' in the quote.
Poor form... nice command to 'never post in any of my threads again'
Time to grow up, really. If someone posts something like that complaining about people not offering what he wants... well, maybe they deserve a little slamming.
If you want money, put it on e-bay with a reserve, and deal with that mess. Or even better: post it with no reserve and find out how much its worth that day...
Compared to another day when it may sell for 28X that much.
I know someone here who just bought a HKS Plenum for a paltry sum, and even with shipping to the USA was about HALF what most people were buying them for!
It's worth what it's worth the day it sells. That may be more or less than any other time. Neither the buyer, nor the seller knows what it's 'worth' until the deal is concluded.
Any other view is masturbation.
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World finals going on at the salt now, Got these images off landracing and SCTA site. only info I have is Victory motorsports, made a run so far at 161.95 mph. maybe someone here knows the car.
Gary Cole DCWATERJET Z
Wow, those guys can claim my dollar!
I wonder if they are out of Wisconsin. The year I missed, Andy gave our distributor shaft to some guys with a 'red 240Z' that needed one. We made our records that year, we didn't need it till next year anyway...
As for the comment on the cap being nothing special...argh! Thank you JC... I was about to scream.
"Not Available in Stores" is one way to put it.
"More Exclusive than the 'I climbed Mount Everest' Club"
More people have climbed Everest, than have acquired that hat. One task gets easier as the years progresses due to technology, the other becomes more difficult to get due to technology...you should be able to figure out which is which...(I hope!)
(Hint: If Everest grew porportionally taller each year as climbing technology progressed, you would have a rough approximation of what it takes to get the 'Red Hat'...)
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I was going to invoke 'Third Dungeon Necroposter' nomenclature till I got to the bottom to see who dredged it up from the bottom of the heap!
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148957
The options are to vent it properly between the AFM and the Intake Valves as you are metering air that you are dumping overboard for the ricer rush sound, without that air in the intake, (as like the stock setup that pushes it past the throttle plate into #4 intake runner keeping everything from going rich) you have more fuel from the computer based on the AFM being wide open, and the RPMs being higher... You just can't dump it. Many will argue on stock turbos, there is absolutely no good reason to waste money on the aftermarket crap---especially if you haven't gotten added piping volume to relieve. Even then, I've seen multiple stock BOV's added to intakes to take care of that, and the engine is silent on shifts! No attention getting ricer "poofta" noise!
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Yeah, Tyler... The BOV is not the emergency relief valve.
The BOV in stock form is in the #4 intake runner, and uses the vacuum on the manifold present on drop-throttle to accomplish evacuation of the J-Pipe through a FAR smaller orifice than you would need dumping the same pressure and volume to atmospheric pressure.
BOV's operate (all valves in fact...) on the principle of differential pressure across the valve. Venting to the manifold has 10psig air in the J pipe venting to near 25" HG "Vacuum" in the manifold. That is 2.2 psia. So you are venting 24.7psia (10psig) in the J pipe through a 1/2" orifice to a 2.2 psia area meaning that 1/2" orifice has a 22.5 psi delta pressure. Using standard engineering calculations you can determine flow through that orifice. If you use a 'standard' BOV dumping to Atmosphere you are dumping that same 24.7psia to a 14.7psia area---a delta pressure of only 10psi!
You can see just from that example that a BOV, to function as well as a STOCK BOV positioned in #4 Runner will have to have at least 2X orifice size to give comparable results. That means maybe a 25mm BOV, but it all depends on the flow coefficient across the valve. With a lot of the crap out there, you will need a significantly larger valve size.
It is possible that a .5 orifice with almost a 23psi delta will be flowing far more than a 1 or even 1.25 orifice with only 10psi across it.
"This has all been discussed before"
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Post em if you want, saves me the trouble! LOL
Some of them are out of focus...I don't like my new 'mini camera' as much as the previous model I had. Small lenses suck.
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Garett is making integral dual turbos with unitized castings more for flow required at boost. They also have twin compressors on single turbine drives that have CR of over 3:1 meaning 45psi. The deal is flow, you need a compressor of X size to flow X CFM and there is no way around it. Unless you run tandem compressors from the same turbine...
And that kind of blows the twin turbo argument in the water...because when those super-high flow turbos show up on the aftermarket you will have a LOT less packaging headaches.
Twins on S30's were deriguer in the 80's simply because compressor and turbine wheel technology were not up to the requirements. You needed twins to have any sort of spool on a 600+ HP car. By the mid 90's they had passed into the history books simply because of the advances in 5 axis machining. The ability to lower boost threshold to lower rpms is materials and bearing related. BB Turbos are running 500 rpms lower thresholds than the older sleeve bearing designs, ceramic and titanium lower inertia and are stronger, 5Axis milling means thinner blades so more air flows through at the same speeds as before... I could get 17psi running a .43 housing at 1700rpms (1982 Technology), and it was all in by 5500, but really the stock cam worked in conjunction with that as well. I would be really interested with a larger wastegate hole (or external gate) and the new compressor wheels what I could do with that same setup today... I suspect 6500 rpm power peak, and that same boost available from 1200rpms with far more HP potential.
The surge curves of the new wheels allow things never before DREAMED of even in the late 80's when the the word came from on high from Moses Bell out of Texas. Well, the bush was burning when I sat agog at the Garrett (Nee Honeywell/Allied Signal) R&D Facility in Lomita and it said unto me: Worship not at the altar of Bell, and learn well the lessons of Turbocharger Research and Development, for it will lead you to a land of smoking and burnouts...
I digress... how did this turn into a Rotary Thread? LOL
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Now... about increasing that secondary bore size to 48-50mm with that dinky primary...
All the parts exist, but is the body capable of taking that bore. That is what we all REALLY want: that dinky primary body for 85% of our driving. Do you guys realize how big a cam you could run and still get a decent MAP signal because of the small incremental changes from that primary barrel? Tuning would be a snap and the fuel economy would be FAR better than the same setup with a 60 or 65mm throttlebody, simply due to the resolution you get at partial throttle.
It's why I've eyed these for some time. I want the smallest primary body, with the largest secondary possible. For a turbo car this would really be ideal! For a heavily cammed car it would be even better...
Anybody remember the Dodge Thermoquads with the miniscule primary bores and then twin 2"+ secondaries? I put that intake and carb on a Dart with a 318 and got BETTER gas mileage than with the original 2bbl (which had FAR larger primary barrels!) Same forces are work... You want resolution for 85% of the driving you do. The rest of the time you want least restriction to flow possible. These dinky primaries do it...we just need a bigger secondary for when the WOT urge arises.
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Panzer, e-mail on the way to you through the ether...
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Sounds Good John,
I'm running to an emergency job in Garyville LA at Marathon Oil, so it will be a day or so before I can load up the photos.
So much for having two or three weeks in the office before going on furlough.
Seems the only time I'm getting off this year is when I'm not getting paid for it!
DAMN!
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The photos are 16MB, if gmail accepts that much, I can send them from my work e-mail to you ace.
Otherwise I will cut the message in half and send two.
I got to rush to the house to cut up a tree laying on my cars, and hten pack for Louisiana and an emergency job at Marathon Refinery in Garyville.
I'll check in when I get the time and forward as appropriate.
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Like John mentions, multiple structure ties are the key to keeping a rigid roof bar from punching through the floor. Each sanctioning body has requirements for this criteria, and what goes in one place may not be enough in another.
I was at an FIA/KNAF Registered Roll Cage Engineereing Works the last weekend in September and took some snaps of their tie-ins on a 240. It was interesting how they worked the floor through and rocker panel into an integrated structure to accept the roll structure.
I can post them on the site (the photos are on my laptop) or post them in another thread titled roll bar. I thought the 240 specific photos might be helpful later on when I was doing my cage...
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Mileage for 17 mpg in commuter service was from about 26,000 miles in one year filling up the tank while driving to and from work in Brea, while living in Corona and tracking it as usual.
Track numbers were taken after filling up trackside, running laps, measuring miles driven, then refilling and going "Oh, I guess the gas gauge gremlin is NOT rearing it's head and I CAN suck down 12 gallons in less than 70 miles!" (around 58 miles, in fact...)
Depending on the temperature outside, I would have to be light-footed at 17psi, so what yerbetten says about 15psi is probably true. I don't run the best gas, either. At 12psi I was running Arco 87 octane at that advance level!
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The 'power jet' may be a bit overated.
VW's for years here in the USA used converted Dellortos with the spindle seals and special emulsion tubes that enrichened under boost.
Which may be the 'power valve' they are referring to... I haven't seen a 'power valve' or see where they would even put it in the body.
Send me the diagram of the 45M with the valve, I'd be interested in what it looks like and how it was fitted.
The drivability problems I'm convinced are a byproduct of sh*tty plenum design. My mikuinis were flawless (er... as carbs can be...) with one plenum design. When I made the plenum smaller, drivability problems resulted.
The VW's I worked with using Dells were always very drivable, same as my original Mikuini Build. I even got a set of DHLA's when I found them, so I could replicate my VW experiences on a Z. That never happened, EFI came along, and made it a non-starter (er...excuse the pun!)
sharkie73z AT yahoo DOT com
You will get the HKS photos this evening when I get home from the office, if the lighting holds out!
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I know that detonation causes the destruction of pistons not boost. The point i was trying to make was why go with a weaker part if you can get a stronger part.
Because the difference in the 'stregnth' is not worth mentioning. It's immaterial.
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I guess nobody evere had a mandrel made to do this expediently.
You might try Power Brother's Machine in Paramount CA, they may still have the drawing for my mandrel. Line-to-Line fit (within 0.001") on the towers...stick 'em on, bolt em' down, and run it!
From my 'centrifugal rotating equipment' knowledge database...
Looks tight, though as stated running it will let you know what you need to do to make it turn easier.
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Read the application instructions on the RTV. Most of this stuff really needs to have clean and DRY surfaces. Some of the new oil resistant stuff will bond through a thin film of oil, but generally cleaning everywhere INCLUDING THE BOLT HOLES with a light quick evaporating solvent will make for a superior bond between metal gasket and dressing compound.
People don't clean the holes out, and install the gasket forcing oil in the threads to exude out under pressure, creating a capillary where other oil can follow later.
I think the 'wait 24 hours' camp is more of a get it up there wet, and semi-clamped, then install fully in the morning. This lets your bond get good, the RTV sets, and then when you tighten fully it compresses instead of gooing out in beads.
Really, if you have excessive beads, you are using too much! Most directions will now tell you to let it 'skin' somewhat. But again the directions tell you what to do.
Using chlorinated solvents, or good old brake cleaner, IPA, take your choice of residue free cleaners...and installing per the gasket maker's instructions has been foolproof for me for many years.
I have to use RTV in gearbox installations for metal-metal fits and EVERYBODY overapplies the stuff. If you have more than a 1/8" bead that exudes out the joint you have used too much (generally speaking). Big gobs of this stuff breaking free and floating around the oil can make for bad things.
Everything has a place, but read those directions and use sparingly and you will be amazed how well things seal up! You usually need a lot less than you think to accomplish the sealing once you are CLEAN AND DRY!
Make sure the RTV is the newer generation oil resistant types. Older 732 and 736 style stuff can get softened over time and exposure to some oils.
Really, with a thin gasket made of manila folder and some RTV you can seal the rail pretty effectively. Thick gaskets are for surface irregularities. Uniform torque allows them to semi compress in some areas and fully compress in others. If you have flat surfaces, the new generation of RTV's can seal without a gasket being in place. Done that as well.
Preparation is the key, and proper application of the gasket/sealant system.
Also, letting things cure properly for the requisite timefram helps immesaurably. On our oil tanks (containing Synthetic Oil in the 160F+ range, and aroudn 220 gallons on average) the SUBMERGED sections of inspection doors are sealed with ONLY RTV. Red 736 at that... This is a door that is approximately 36"x18", and has not only 20" of oil hydrostatic pressure on the joint, but 2-3PSI from a blanketing gas applied to the top of it. Straight RTV over a flat joint having less than 1" width around the perimiter of the door will seal it EVERY time, but if you have residual oil, oil in the bolt holes, oil on the door, or don't wait AT LEAST 2 hours before refilling the tank there is a very good chance you will get a 'seep' at first that starts attracting dust. Within a year you will have a mess at the door, and within 2 it will be a maintenance issue because of puddling on the floor beneath the joint. Considering they don't want to shut the thing down but once every 5 years, this is unacceptable.
Flat-Dry-Follow Cure Time and Instructions for Application to the Letter-Do Not Overapply. Do that, and you should be good. Skip a step...things may get bleak!
Good Luck!
For our gearbox splitlines that have been set up using RTV, I will have to take grease and put it into a threaded hole on the splitline, then put a special 'o-ringed bolt' into the hole. This will allow me to screw a bolt in a hole, hydraulically compress the grease, and let it exude out under tremendous pressure to force it's way through the splitline joint and break the bond the RTV has on the two metal halves. I may have to do this in several spots before an overhead crane is capable of lifting the gearbox cover up and away from the lower half. When it's clean, dry, and properly applied ain't NOTHING short of a couple thousand PSI gonna work it's way through a metal to metal joint with cured RTV in it. Frankly, the use of a gasket in there is a potential weakpoint. If you have flat rails, and backup strips around the perimiter getting the pan OFF next time you need to do a bottom end will be more of a problem than leaks from the pan EVER will be!
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who says you can't text while driving?
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Brakes? Huh? What BRAKES?
Please Substitute "Brakes" in the appropriate place in the following video clip:
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My point is with well over 40K miles on a set of used N42 N/A pistons which have seen their fair share of detonation over the years, I'm still running with virtually the same compression and about 5% more leakdown than I had when I started.
Actually, on #5, due to some stuck rings from extended storage before I installed the engine, I am up 10psi and down 20% on leakdown from when I originally started the engine the first time and took basealine readings.
The N42 N/A piston is very durable. Nissan narrowed the rings to give 300,000 mile durability on an engine which was known for this kind of mileage lingevity by the time the turbo came out. It was an engineering decision to not compromise any longevity AT ALL when adding a turbo that may see constant borderline detonation for thousands of miles due to poor maintenance...and still hold up.
We are not talking about that situation here. We are talking about seriously increasing the specific output of the engine well above the 200HP Nissan Designed around (yes, 200, not 180---the pistons in Euro Turbo Cars are the same P/N as North American Models...and they are 20HP more!) Under that assumption is that we will be running considerably more cylinder pressure, and if the fueling goes off the resultant detonation will be FAR more severe than what Nissan Designed the pistons for in EITHER case.
If you ever heard Japanese LPG powered Bluebird Taxis and how they were lugged by the drivers, you would realize that the N/A pistons were designed around some SERIOUS parameters in regards to detonation.
Make a stronger ring land, break the piston ring. Make a stronger piston ring, break the head gasket. Make a stronger head gasket, break the piston. Go forged pistons with even THICKER lands, THICKER rings, and O-Ring the block: BULLETPROOF?
Detonate: Still break the piston.
Detonation WILL break things, period. The difference between the turbo pistons and N/A pistons in service to 350HP to the rear wheels has been indecipherable to me to this point. If you are going higher than that, maybe turbo pistons are a good thing because of ring loading on the lands due to higher sustained cylinder pressures. But realistically do you see yourself running that build even 100,000 miles before expecting to overhaul or freshen it up? If not...
But in either case, both machines will blow the ringlands when you detonate.
I remind you JeffP ran lean at 8psi on two successive dyno pulls. TWO PULLS. Never heard it detonate or anything. Sunk 5 of six pistons rings and lands out of those expensive forged pistons. If it had a weaker head gasket, it would have blown. Maybe the rings would have held, maybe they would have gone... who knows, but if you make everything else airtight and 'bulletproof' you detonate and you will kill either piston: N/A-Cast, Turbo-Cast, Superdooper Unobtanium-Forged-Custom 6 Month Leadtime from Cosworth Racing-Forged.
"You canna fight the laws of physics, Jim --- it's gonna blow!"
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A collar that is too long can be compensated for by adjusting the slave rod approximately 1/4" shorter.
A collar that is to short may run out of rod length, or throw in the bellhousing opening to adequately release the clutch at some point.
As your girlfriend once said: "Longer is Better"
I made the mistake of a too-long collar and simply was too lazy to take the tranny back down...that's when I found out the 91 240SX Slave Rod is considerably shorter than the one I had in the 280Z...and since I had already cut down my old 280 rod...they looked identical, so there are two options.
Adjustable rod makes this one a no-brainer, go long, adjust shorter if you have to. Likely 5mm (1/4") will get the clutch engaged so you can move the car.
Too long collar results in a clutch that will not engage, and the car will not move.
Too short a collar results in an inability to get into gear, or start the car in gear. (Clutch disc always partially clamped by pressure plate, even with pedal all the way to the floor.)
Hope that clears the logic behind what you have in front of you. Good Luck!
head/piston clarification
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Actually, the notched pistons tell you someone put notched pistons in it...
I have a set of those, NOS, never been in the car, they were a non-us offering and were marketed through the nissan motorsports offices in the USA as a 'performance option' piston.
There are more than one E88 as well...