Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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BPR(X)ES for the street or anything with electronics in it. That resistor plug is good for damping noise in the radio (especially AM) and keeps unshielded wires from picking up interference. Some systems (aftermarket) will pick up pulses on their TPS line making the engine think it's going WOT and screws the fueling all up.
On sandblasting not being a 'viable long term alternative' --- why not? When leaded fuels fouled spark plugs and tune ups were every 3K miles, people didn't think anything of cleaning regapping and reinstalling the same plugs. I still don't.
If the plug is working, it's working. If it's made of superior metals, and the edges stay sharp for good jumping off (no ground or center electrode errosion) why NOT re-use them.
If you got a miss, chances are much higher there is a wire breaking down than a plug that has been rendered unuseable. Though fouling says you got some other serious issues to deal with like overfueling. You can run a hotter plug to keep them burned off, but the real solution is to make the fueling proper.
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Ex.....cellent our plan is coming to fruition.
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This may sound bizzare, but make the plan, and stick to it.
You'll find you don't change parts hardly at all once the plan is made.
And consistency of the goal means you don't have to worry about 'upgrades' later on.
My MS1 car does everything my goals for the project require. Wants versus Needs. You simply and rationally need to put those down and confirm each part as to it's suitability to the build. A 'Pro and Con' column if you will. If the part being considered has too many cons, or can't rationally be justified then it's a 'Want' and not a 'need' for the build. Truthfully, EDIS on a N/A engine not turning above 7500 rpms is more of a 'want' than a 'need' from where I sit on the pro and con ledger.
If you change your mind, it's not constancy of purpose. As some would say 'your water runs troubled'---get some piece of mind and settle your mind to think clearer about the goals you set for the car. If you can't you will be in a constant state of flux, confusion, and angst. Who needs that?
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Profiling the intake and exhaust ports of a professionally ported engine would make a nice CNC program to have for a racer in case he needed to duplicate a build for consistency.
CMM tracing is likely what he did to the head ports. I had access to one of those machines, then they closed the division and I wasn't allowed to bid on any of it...
>:^(
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Actually, it was a corner that was too fast to take flatfooted on-boost in 2nd because there was no traction from the 265's out back, and if you took it at the same speed in third you were below boost threshold lugging all the way through exiting. (Thanks for that gearspread, Nissan!)
With the tail on it you could take it, under boost through the corner solidly planted and on the verge of pushing. Actually if you entered correctly, you could stay on it almost like a chicane, and the front would push to the outside with just enough track to spare. Actually accelerating through in 2nd. If it wasn't a mountianside course, and there was a longer runup to it I would probably stay in third, but...downshifting into second matched entrance and exit speed. You were in secone on boost hard before entering the turn. Before the tail, it was upshift to third to drop out of boost (or at least curtail the power) because you just couldn't keep standing on it or you would loose traction. Modulation in second really kept the engine at peak torque making it a bit slippery. Man, it's been a while thinking about that curve. I hvae to go watch some video to see what I was doing now. It was on boost second gear when I was done. Maybe it was on boost third gear... And second was too low. I know modulating just sucked because you couldn't do anythning after the turn. But with the tail, you could keep your foot in it. It was relatively a slow turn.
In the higher gear, your exit speed just dropped so fast it wasn't funny. Speed through the corner before tail was maybe 45. After tail I could accelerate through it passing redline in second and shift into third for the straightaway just after the corner full on boost and pulling hard. It must have been secondand third, because top of third would have been 100, and this corner was half that speed.
I suppose I could put 175# of ballast in the back to plant it, but I'm sure it would have affected me elsewhere. The whaletail was rated at 370# at 100 mph. Seemed that if it was linear, I had half that at 50-70 and allowed me to stick through that one. Actually 'higher speeds' and 100mph are not really someting to say these days. In most states you are doing 80% of that speed on the average interstate highway. The little Datsun Kick Tail was not helping it at all, I needed more, and got it with the wing.
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So manually cutting a shim 0.005" thick out of stainless steel shim stock to make up that difference is impossible I guess?
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Ever see it done to a school bus? I have seen guys do that to a surplus school bus and use the chassis for everything from hauling scrap, to making a camper/car hauler combination out of it!
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Emmitt Otters Jug-Band Christmas.
Found a DVD copy and bought it immediately.
My wife thinks I'm crazy, but I kind of like 'The Riverbottom Gang'... And their singing fish. (American Dad tie-in with Hantz?)
I sent a link to my wife, I always forward "Chicken Humor" and the 'bok bok bok' at the beginning will remind her I am thinking of her nagging me, all these thousands of miles from home... (I always make chicken noises when she starts in... I know really mature and adult way of interpersonal communication.)
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Ohhh... No, that's not who I'm discussing it with, but the lead proves intriguing.
Having one of the completed engines to dissect would be most enlightening, if for no other reason than to see what went on, and then to ask 'why' on this or that...
There have been impromptu conversations with DD, though.
You know how it works, rats in the cellar feeding on a common bit of bread striking up conversations...finding common ground, sharing the cheese they squirreled away last evening. Typical shop talk and milking in the way least likely to make you look like you're not trying to grovel for even more, being the unworthy rat you are...
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The first rule of any project is to have clear goals in mind and stick to them.
If you have changed things several times, it's because you failed in the most basic stage of planning of the project: Clear Goals.
Don't blame a product for not fullfilling every possible whim you may have down the line. If that is the case, I can call SDS a poor system because there is one sitting in my shed that is fuel only. I didn't buy it, it came in a box of other stuff. And there is sits until I figure out what it's good for, but for me... why bother with it? Does it make the SDS somehow bad? I don't think so. Just misapplied.
And when something is misapplied, it's the engineer in charge of the product upgrade who's to blame, not what they chose. I get to ask that question, and point that finger a lot in my job...usually the project engineer comes back to the what the customer 'thought' he wanted. But you can't blame the customer.
Yes, yes you can!
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No, the wiring exits identically LHD or RHD, but the stuff under the dash in in another location (connectors on the RH side, with instruments on the RH side on an RHD Dash, while the LHD has the longer pigtails for instruments and starter all the way over to the other side of the dash from the under kick panel connection points)
EFI harness still in same location, ECU in same location (and a royal beyotch if you have factory air in some of the Fairlady Models with the condenser on that side!!!)
The biggest difference is the dash wiring and where the instruments are... depending on year you may have an internal reg alternator earlier than US models, flash-to-pass options in the harness for the headlights, etc... Fuse Box in the same place...
Meh, nothing as difficult as say....swapping a firewall!
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I was dumping them in the metal scrap bin behind work for a while, till the Shop Manager called the police and we had CostaMesa PD with most of a Z laid out on the macadam behind the shop one morning.
He thought a chop shop was using our metal dumpster to dispose of stolen cars.
"Sorry Mr. Riggs, without the VIN, we really have no way of knowing what this car was, or who it belonged to..."
Whew (he he he he!) Imagine that, no VIN on any of the parts in the dumpster. Amazing.
When he found out it was me, he was apologizing. He never figured out that the metal always arrived the NIGHT before a metal pickup, and always JUST filled the bin so there was never any extra haulage or transfer fees involved. You think a chop shop would have been that considerate?
"Yeah, I guess I should have figured. I just coudn't figure out what car it was from, if I figured it was a Z, I would have thought of you first, and not a chop shop."
Who says I'm not a chop shop Monty?
We both laughed at that one!
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Yep, 'anything they wanted' was what we have been told as well.
The people we are talking to are interested in our approach as we are not looking for 'specific power secrets' but the ancillary endurance modifications they did to make the power last. Both parties recognize that what specific number you make is irrelevant if it blows up before the checkered flag drops. If you make it last, power is the least of your worries. We want longevity, we can make whatever horspower we need, as long as ancillary systems are capable.
The biggest thing they kept stressing was cooling systems. They are very proud that they never had a DNF due to the cooling system, regardless of power level being used at the time.
The point I was making is the untapped (or unknown previously tapped) potential of the L-Engine in SOHC Non-Crossflow form is FAR more than what has been proven to be available from many of the aftermarket dongle and gadget people. Note earlier where OSG will basically build the engine for their head as a condition of selling it... hmmmm wonder why? They want the quality control of the things that make it last perhaps?
If you start looking at photos, you see things. Sorry to be nebulous, but it's as far as I can go till we get this stuff all sorted and proven in our own minds and on the dyno.
I do know there will be another SoCal engine dyno with an L-Engine adapter setup soon... Retreading ground, what can I say, it's the price of step-by-step engine redevelopment!
Paying dearly for one of those E-Motive engines would have made a lot of things evident. The guy that regreshes them is still active and just moved his shop. He was doing an F1 engine for vintage racing last visit. Cool stuff, cool guy!
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This is a big project so I made an informed summary (since I've done 2 before). You do give up reliability when going MS/EDIS and that's also an important item when one is relying on a car as a daily driver. Good reliable information is not a downer in my book.
Neither is overblowing difficulties. If you will note, I simply stated that EDIS was probably way overkill, and that MS-n-Se is all he really needs, and with that he can choose between fuel only, or fuel and spark at a later date.
MS1 platform is pretty well debugged, there are not a lot of surprises. The EDIS and all this MS2 stuff is like a DOHC head for a Z: kids getting infatuated with technology because it's AVAILABLE. Because it's AVAILABLE doesn't immdeiately make it APPLICABLE.
The 280ZXT worked FINE with a SINGLE coil, and conventional spark distribution.
There are MS's out there now which have been daily driven without issue for YEARS. Some have gone through SEVERAL CA Smog Cycles as well without being detected, and compared to the OEM systems they REPLACED they are LESS TROBULESOME.
Straight information is one thing, couching it in a negative manner is another.
He doesn't NEED EDIS, he WANTS it. It's probably more constructive to educate him why it's not applicable (especially in his circumstance) than it is to make a mountian out of a molehill once he has the original unit's learning curve under his belt.
MS was a SIMPLE SYSTEM, and it has strayed. Because they could. It doesn't change the original philosophy: Simple Straightforward Cheap.
An MS1 with 8X8 tables runs the car in daily driver mode JUST FINE, you don't NEED anything more! It will outperform the stock box that is in there now.
Add complexity, add problems. Keep it simple, and your troubles are FAR less.
I'll add that in some cases you can actually have the entire system installed in the car and 'burning in' taking datalogs for quite some time before doing the conversion swapover (yes, with CARBS TOO! Patton Machine Adapters go in quite quickly...)
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What different turbo road, this is all old hat stuff, there really isn't anything new here...it's all pretty much been done, it's just a matter of reinventing the wheel every 10 years or so.
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Glue?
Jet adjustment is internal on the 73 carbs as well as 74... what is the glue you speak of?
If it runs rich, make surethe power vavle is working correctly.
Your attitude no doubt affects how the car runs, revise it and likely things will get better (Reference material: Buddy Hackett in Herbie the Love Bug series...)
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That's where I was heading, TimZ! That's where I was heading...
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Heat soak was not an issue with the standard issue Mikuini Cooling Bodies...even without an intercooler and 10psi.
When the gas formulations changed, though, it got bad... nothing to do but to go EFI. I gave up at that point.
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The guy that built them says differently. 780 was only one trim. The GTU engine was making 680, and that was >2.5l
Yes, we have been busy networking and gleaning knowledge. Those guys give up information....but you got to draw it out. It's a process. Learning a lot as it goes further and further down the road!
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Anyone who says they can't rev and be reliable just needs to listen to some of our vids, lol.
Rob
No, they need to STOP watching vids, and actually build an L Engine first! I swear to jeebus most of the guys with that palaver have never so much as cracked the bottom end on a stock setup much less dealt with a built stroker!
It's what I call 'parrot syndrome'---repeating endlessly mindless drivel which has no basis in the real world!
Makes me cra-z!
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Its kinda fun though when the first cut is right down the middle of the car and it falls into two longitudinal sections. I stopped and thought for about 10 minutes about what I could do with 1/2 a Z...
No Brainer: Stick it on the wall up high out of the way and wait for visitors to comment on how freakin' cool it is. Paint it nicely, and you can sell it to some car-themed diner when you get tired of it...
There was an office in LA with a complete skeletonized 240Z, inverted and suspended from the roof!
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"Electronics should be black and white, either it works or you did something wrong, so why are there people where it sometimes doesn't work damnit?! "
Don't ever take a job in the Technical Services, or Engineering Field Service Department anywhere, you will string yourself up and they will find you like David Carradine in Bangkok!
Just a suggestion: KISS
Run basic megasquirt, using someone's proven setup and tables. THEN get fancy. MS-n-Se on a MS 1 works FINE. The rest of the stuff is for people who WANt to play around with crap. Let them. Learn the basics and get comfortable with it first. MS is not the only system out there, likely you will find systems costing 4X as much with many of the same issues...
99.9999% of any of the problems is due to initial installation (same almost with anything)... If you get it right on the install, it's downright boring because it just starts and runs. My 260ZT with MS sits for 3+ months at a stretch and it fires up bettern the stock EFI I got on the other car sitting for half that long!
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Don't laugh, if the guy knew a thing about how that blower worked, he could easily modify the axial tip clearance and make that baby capable of producing close to 15psi!
Toro Leaf Blower Impellers (the replacement ones...) are made of magnesium, and when the tolerances are closed up to normal axial clearances for that size impeller, they work admirably well as either powered, or belt-driven superchargers on engines up to 3.0L in displacement. More than that, and you need two. Keep the boost below 7psi, and they last forever (the bearing packs I'm talking about...)
Don't bother, I'm not willing to tell how I know this, I just do...
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Many of the offroaders and Moab Rockcrawlers swear by EFI because of it's ability to perform in obtuse angles while offroading. I would not have a carb on a car now unless I had to, the fuel in the USA is not conducive to it's proper operation unless you are shelling out bucks for specially formulated stuff, the pump crap is just that...and meant specifically for EFI'd cars now...
CWC CAM Question (shape of billet)
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
CWC Cam Inquiry for those that have them:
There is a 'holding' area on the cam, on the stock Nissan (JAPAN) cores, this is two knobs protruding from the stick.
Is the CWC the same two 'knobs'? Or is it another shape?
The reason I'm asking is that I was lead to believe that CWC (the largest OEM supplier) was the ONLY place to get cam blanks, short of turning your own. I was told the original supplier in Japan had finished their run, and no more JAPAN cores were available.
Well, now I'm in Japan. I'm seeing cams which are OBVIOUSLY not ground on a stock core...their 'holding lugs' are HEXAGONAL.
Curiously these blanks have JAPAN on them, but they are NOT OEM Nissan Cams as they have 'the two knobs'...
These cams do not have CWC on them, either.
Maybe it's just me who is interested in this development, but if cams are available with the original process... I'm in for a gross! LOL
So, CWC cam guys, what's your 'holding lug' configuration? Confirm my suspicions that, HUZZAH, us L-Guys have a possibility of TWO aftermarket cam blank supplies...