Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I don't have 'em, it's discussions and seeing them in someone elses' collections.
I got some stuff, but it's mostly still on dead trees, and will be for some time to come.
I mean, there are people who have given me the 'put up or shut up' more than once on 9 second full bodied ZX's in 1989. Like if the evidence doesn't exist on the net, it can in no way ever have happened. I simply reference the 1989 L-Engine Shootout Issue (August or October I belive Of the Japanese Magazine "Carboy")---if they want the verification they can scoop it up, I don't have the time to go and scan it...though some time I probably will and next time they say it post a link. Maybe. If it becomes a priority. I doubt it will. In the 80's Carboy had a regular (annual) L-Engine issue with all SORTS of cool stuff, and I think I have three or four of them in my racks out back in the shed. Cover to cover L-Engine stuff with a big drag shootout at Fuji Raceway with articles covering the various builds in the winners.
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Yeah, the good old carbon ring...
Like I said 'there are better ways to go about it today'!
The big ticket in the old days was the interchangability of the Corvair E-Flow turbines into these Rajay housings. The thing to do in the day was to put the early 150HP Turbines with the later Rajay E-Flow Compressors (now, remember guys, 'hybrid turbos' are a new thing!
) so you got boost at a much lower rpm than the original setup.Problem was, now you could seriously overboost the system, as the boost was controlled through inlet restriction and exhaust restrictions. A leaking exhaust could detonate your engine to death...and in places like the Rust Belt with everybody wrapping their mild steel exhaust pipes with foil and asbestos, that wonderful salt spray would get in there and bake...and work on your exhaust system YEAR ROUND (woo hoo!) so some time in the summer you hit a bump, at WOT, your muffler falls off, and your boost goes from 10psi to 21+psi as you are wondering "why did the car get louder, and what is that racket from the engine?" So you lift...
Get out, realize you lost your muffler... walk back a couple hundred yards to go and kick it back to the car where you wrap it in a sweater and stick it in the trunk... and start thinking "hey, man, this thing was REALLY scooting with no muffler on there, but what was that racket?"
Soon thereafter you are replacing split jugs, installing case saver stud inserts to hold the heads on better, and waiting forever for shipments from the far away land called "California" where it seems anybody who's anybody in the Car Business has a mail order shop and can ship you something for a price... And such cool things they had there...
After 24 years, I gave up mail order, I just moved there to save me the shipping charges. Now gas is astronomical so short of actually taking up residence at MSA or Turbo City I guess shipping is back to being the cheaper alternative.... Maybe I should move back to Michigan and just have it all shipped again!
:burnout:Draw-Throughs have some stealth advantages which I still like. I think the advent of Megasquirt and SU Throttle Bodies will allow something that is period correct in look, and relatively reliable. With an internally wastegated turbo these kind of period systems can look the part and return decent performance.
Then again, this is 70's technology. For a later S30 (77,78 on...)Greddy was there in the JDM and HKS had blowthrough plenums that make these early systems jsut pale by comparison.)
Really, this is a holdover from 60's designs, and they really only existed from early 70's to mid 70's, after that Hobbs Switches on EFI systems and Turbo Group Fuelers rapidly took over the Z-Turbo Performance scene.
Oh yeah, and the Cartech Box of Pops... But there were JDM solutions that were much better. The Cartech had a decent compressor Bypass Valve, Exhaust Manifold, and Turbo...but the plenum...yeech!
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I would add that it's more 'Theoretical' that the SR is better. In theory it's better since the polar moments are better, it's lighter, etc...
BUT...
I have noticed no difference from the N/A that was in there, other than understeering more into a turn because I have more power, and am going faster in the same space. So this means I adjust the handling accordingly.
Build to your horsepower level, a stock L28ET is well within the power limitations of the chassis you are considering. IMO, anything up to about 350HP should work with an S30. Over that power level, it's more about straighline performance from what I've seen. My fat tired S30 Shark Car was tossable at 275-300HP like a go-kart, and I was happy with it. Would it have been 'better' with an SR20? I don't know, but I didn't feel there was a penalty in handling retaining the L6 in there.
Now, if you were talking about a B110, or a 510... then the duke-out would be SR -vs- KA wouldn't it? In the JDM, many of the '10-Series' Sedans had two models, one with a longer nose, and one with a shorter nose. Same wheelbase, but one had a four cylinder (short nose) and one had the L20A Six in there (long nose). In those I would say likely the longer nosed versions may benefit from the 4 cylinder platform since it appears the longer nosed versions were simply the four cylinder cars with added sheetmetal on inner and outer fender sheetmetal. Meaning in my mind that they were designed around a four cylinder. The old Box Skylines seemed a bit nose-heavy for my tastes when in six cylinder format compared to the G-20 powered short-nosed versions.
But I prattle, rattle, and digress...
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Frankly, it's easier to replace the SU and put a Holley on it, that's what I did on the second Corsa 180 I bought. The jetting of the drawthrough systems is far easier on a Holley than on an SU due to restricted jet area.
I didn't say draw throughs were crap, I commented on someone talking BS and misleading someone looking for pertinent information. Yes, I read the whole post, and on the whole it was something that probably shouldn't have been posted in the first place, it's devoid of factual substance and used 'heard of' examples...
Saying a Rajay Turbo and SU Drawthrough setup is 'realy easy to tune' obviously has had, nor done, either.
And that was the real point of the opening paragraphs of my first post. I read the whole post, and again, found it misleading to the O.P. Zex, you're new at this and have an attitude about people with years of experience doing this kind of stuff to this specific engine, be open to the possiblity we may know what we are talking about and don't want to blow smoke (of blown headgaskets) up this guy's butt! Where he lives, L-Engine parts are neither cheap, nor plentiful, and if he goes 'boom' from some misguided advice, it will likely be the end of the project for some time.
Anything the opening paragraphs was trying to relate my un-sugar coated personal experiences of tuning one of these setups on four different models of cars: Corvair Corsa Turbo, VW Bus, Datsun Z series, and Datsun 510. In EVERY CASE the SU was a PITA to get to work without some sort of ADDITIONAL boost control to limit the boost, or massive additional antidetonant added to the mix (if you were running over the original designed 7psi of boost). (My e-mail addy 'turbotony' was hung on me well before AOL was even a gleam in someone's eye, and before civilians got access to the net that was available then... Hung on me before 'War Games' and before Ted Nugent sung the praises of the BiTurbo in 'Wango Tango'... I lived through these when they were new, and tolerated 'state of the art' then...and gladly discard it now because the 'good old days' really weren't!)
The restriction device shown in the photos of the OP limits flow, and therefore HORSEPOWER. Sure, it makes tuning of the fuel curve a bit easier, as you are limited to 7psi of boost...
But who want's that? Barely worth the effort, may as well keep the Dellortos and do without crappy boost threshold, terrible lag (truly lag, and you know my penchant for terminology on that point!), and generally a poor alternative to what is out there now.
I am probably one of the few remaining people who will defend the choice of a draw-through setup on an L-Series, because I know you can make them work, and work damn well. Of course there will be all sorts of internet experts who read this or read that, and will come right up with the deriguer examples of 'puddling', or 'fuel drop out', or 'cold running problems'---to some extent they may be true. In most cases they're not, and they're simply repeating something to look knowledgable when they havent' any firsthand experiences. The latest iteration of this is guys following diesels and other new technology applications who note blade erosion due to MASSIVE injection of supplements. Not atomized fuel, or even partially atomized fuel from a carburettor, but direct spray of relatively large micronic sized droplets up to and including a steady stream. Sure, I can show you where oil injection nozzles have cut lines in gears... But this is NOT what is happening in these kits. These kits work for tens of thousands of miles with absolutely no blade errosion at all. You are seeing an apple and saying it's an orange. Simply not knowing what application one thing came from and applying what you see towards something you think is similar. Like watching a pushrod engine break a pushrod in an SBC because of a binding rocker arm and then repeating on an OHC Datsun board 'watch out you have your rocker arms clearanced right with that high-lift cam or you will break something!'
But telling someone that this system is 'realy easy' to tune is just wrong. Plain wrong.
IF the carb is properly jetted with a proper needle and fuel delivery (*BIG IF*) then it will work, and work somewhat decently to the limit of hte boost restrictor. If you are (as I said) looking for something period correct for a showpiece that won't be seriously campaigned, or don't have ANY intention of raising the boost beyond what the STOCK KIT SETUP IS, then this kit may bolt on and run decently well. The impingment of the fuel droplets on the turbine wheel helps keep charge temperatures down, and can actually let you run relatively lean for what you would expect. The kit can get decent fuel mileage teamed with a 3.36 and a 5 speed at highway speeds. If you put water injection (or methanol...) you can run really lean using the anti-detonant and get phenomenal gas mileage, in the low to mid 30's with the four speed, and likely slightly higher with an early five speed.
But if you want something that will go beyond 10psi of boost...forget it, this kit ain't it!
Addressing the Single Dellorto Draw Through, this is possible on a VW, but on a 2.4 or larger engine, the jetting is hard to get right and the jet area will run short---there is only so much you can flow through a single 45DHLA. Again, having run this route years ago, the single 45DHLA is a good street combo, and if you put on an ITB with a couple of 750CC injectors....WOAH! But really it becomes easier for that effort to simply put a Holley four barrel on it and suck through it thataway. The cooling effect of the fuel going and changing state really lets you run boost levels you would never expect you could run without an intercooler! The more boost you use, the more power you will make, and consequently the more fuel you will need to dump in there, meaning additional cooling for the additional pressure you are running. It's one of the stealth attributes of a Draw-Through. You can run 17-20psi of boost without an intercooler. Now, if you have a properly cammed and ported head that 17-20psi is close to 460-500HP... Without an intercooler showing... Follow me here? That's why the Holley's get the nod from me, the SU's or even a 50mm Weber (55mm for that matter) won't flow the fuel to handle that kind of HP. Under 250HP you can likely do it on a modified jet SU, or with sufficient work on a 45 or 50Weber/DHLA Dell...
But the Holley will run to whatever you want. And when people look at it, it's a Holley Draw Through with no intercooler. And everybody who's anybody that has read the bible according to Corky will tell you: "You can't make any big power without an intercooler."
Let's try to keep it in the real world here, and not fantasyland. This kit can work within it's limitations, but don't expect much.
Frankly, this one would make a nice addition to my 'oddities of the past' shelf in the shed. The biggest drawback of the kit is it's biggest selling point: the boost limiter keeps you from exceeding normal fuel flow from the carb. But you will never make big power with the restrictor in there. It keeps you from blowing, but keeps you from making serious power as well. Catch 22 Yossarian!
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Read Japanese? Most of the stuff on the S20 is in Japanese Articles that followed the domestic racing series in Japan at the time. As time passes, and the engines are no longer 'competitevly raced' the knowledge comes out in trickles as the people who worked on them die.
A good source is Alan Thomas (HS30-H) in the UK, he has done extensive research in the area, and is an absolute wealth of knowledge on the domestic racing programs in Japan, as well as the international scene.
I mean, 240's with ITB's and EFI.... in 1972!
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Tuning is realy easy so don't let it bother you. Obviously the parts need a rebuild.....
No offense, dude, but this is NOT your setup, and 'tuning' this is a BEAR! It's nothing as simple as on a Holley when you simply change jets. This setup will require micrometers, hand filing on parts, and HOURS of runs to get a fuel curve somewhat proper.
As for drawthroughs being hard on the compressor side due to impingement, quit repeating articles! The Rayjay is a WET TURBO, it was DESIGNED as a drawthrough setup, as almost EVERY system at the time was, they will work about 75,000 miles if you are lucky, and at that time you will be out of bearing and need a bearing replacement. I have put probably three bearing kits in my Rajay over the years, and the wheel is still in balance and looks perfect. And that is after probably 50,000 miles of not only having fuel impinging on the impeller, but large water and water/methanol being sprayed directly into the turbo inlet via a Spearco Water Injection kit. Repeating myths and legends doesn't help anybody, please refrain from it. This system is so far afield from what your setup is, outside of the fact that they both employ turbochargers, so as to be unrelated. Experience in one really has nothing to do with the other, they are that different an animal!
The ONLY thing that makes it passable is the thing he's asking about, which is a BOOST RESTRICTION DEVICE (I want to call it an Impco Boost Controller, but I forget the exact name they used back then...) This is what they used in the dark days before watesgates in addition to inlet and exhaust restriction. The Rajay will make 17-22 psi if the exhaust is leaking or low restriction (the muffler plays a part on this system), and the device in question will limit the boost available to the manifold by moving the internal shuttle to restrict flow. If you're muffler or headpipe should rust and fall off, this device will have you going SLAM SLAM SLAM on a compressor surge all the way up to redline once you get into the top of second, or around 3500rpms in third gear under WOT. This is why Rajay replacement center cartridges were doing such brisk business.
Without this device, which is the ONLY thing that makes running that small SU workable on this engine. It limits the boost, and thereby the fuel requirements. If this was the original Crown Style kit, you would play hell with a too small main jet and have to blunt-cut the needle in the SU to get enough fuel flow into the engine---and even then you will run short aroudn 15psi, and need anti-detonant to keep the engine together as the boost climbs (unrestricted, remember no wastegate on those AT ALL!) to around 22psi.
I can't tell if you have a Z SU, or one from a Jag (2" or larger). The Jag's have a 1.25" main jet which makes fuel delivery less of a problem, but if it's the 0.100" jet from the stock Z SU, you will have issues getting enough fuel through it, even with a variable delivery fuel system that will raise the fuel in the float bowl.
My suggestion would be to keep your Dellortos, rework the turbo adapter to put the Rayjay down lower, and get a pressure plenum for them instead. The drivability (especially cold) will be far better. You will find the response of the system will e LOADS better if you rework the turbo adapter to incorporate a wastegate (easily available from E-Bay these days) and run a proper wastegate to limit the RayJay's terminal boost, and then remove that damnable restrictor and put a Crown-Style adapater, or simply make an adapter to blow into where the restrictor formerly was.
The RayJay is oversized for the engine, and the boost response is not all that great. It is not uncommon even on WOT that the engine won't make any boost at all in first gear, and you might get some at the top of second gear. By third you will start getting decent boost, and in fourth I will make boost at highway speeds fairly easily. The compressor map on this turbo is pretty horrendous, and ultimately it's really only designed to support between 180 and 200 HP, but then it's at pretty high flows. The technology that had those wheels made was based on stuff done in the 1960's, and there are really much better alternatives.
If you are putting together a 'period correct' accessory car, something with all the goodies from some time period like it was frozen in time...this is something to install. It's a nice curio, but there are FAR better ways to accomplish turbocharging a car these days. There is a reason this system was removed from whatever it was installed...
Man, I haven't seen one of those damnable boost-restrictor things for 25+ years! It was a horrendous and terrible way to accomplish the goal of boost control. Seriously, unless you are willing to spend some money to get some proper technology to make that system work properly, I'd put it on a shelf and say 'hey look at this cool stuff I got!' That's where most of my Crown and Rajay Stuff is these days. (Shudder) I lived through that stuff when it was NEW, I can't imagine what it will be like trying to get it all working again now that it's got thousands of miles of roadwear on it!
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The stock idle bypass screw from the later ZX's unplug just fine, and with a small torch or heat gun the hot melt glue holding in the large 12mm hoses lets go---allowing you to tap that same valve for a 1/4" barbed fitting, and rig a simple idle speed bypass circuit just like stock. This is the same setup on Euro Turbo cars, they did not use the AAC, just an idle bypass screw with a totally closed throttle plate.
With a 1/4" line you can adjust any idle speed from 300 to 2200rpm on most L28's. The larger lines are not needed, you likely could get by with even smaller tubing but I used 1/4" EFI hose so it's good for the boost pressures I'm running. It works just as well on N/A applications. Looks stock, as well! JeffP comments that "I suck" for making it look stocker than his needle valve bypass setup...
I might add that using this type of idle bypass circuit allows you to install a simple solenoid into the circuit for initiation of a high idle feature---a direct porting of the 1/4" line with a small restrictor jet in the alternate line will allow 1500 or whatever you desire for fast idle. A magnet valve off a turbo will perform that function, and remain looking stock...
Sometimes, I shake my head and leave the SMOG station grinning broadly at what I get by sometimes...All clean and green, yet naughty at the same time!
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It was my impression talking with some parts people that the cannisters are the same, save for the pressure valve you mention. Basically they add that check valve.
The way the cannister functions is when there is pressure in the manifold, you will block it coming to the cannister body and thereby blowing EVAP out the bottom. If you were to operate under boost forever, eventually your gas tank would loose enough fuel to cause a vacuum in the tank, and at this point the EVAP that was in the cannister would then be redirected through the two-way valve to the port back to the tank, allowing makeup air into the tank.
As long as ONLY the manifold fitting has the one-way valve in it, you should still function as designed. The turbos have a dual-check valve in the manifold section of the cap, same as on the tank manifold cap.
The tank can cause pressure, as fuel expands, and it needs to go to the cannister for charcoal adsorption. When the car starts, normally the cannister is evacuated of these fumes, and then the tank check valve closes, to stop the manifold from drawing a vacuum on the fuel tank. Once tank vacuum develops, that valve will move allowing the make up air while at the same time not permitting a vacuum leak into the manifold line.
This is far easier to explain with a piece of paper and a drawing...
Yeah, basically you add a simple check valve on the manifold line from the cannister to the manifold, so it allows manifold vacuum to suck on the cannister, and prevents pressure from boost going to the cannister, and it should work just fine.
Breakdown of cannister valving and cannister action:
Tank Connections
1)allow EVAP to the cannister when fuel is hot (Flow to cannister from tank)
2)allow fresh air to the tank when required (flow from cannister -through it's filter on the bottom from ambient air- to the tank)
Manifold Connections
1) allow EVAP from the cannister when engine starts (Flow from cannister to manifold)
2) prevent pressurization of cannister (Check Valve action from manifold to cannister)
3) prevent manifold vacuum from sucking a vacuum on fuel tank (check valve action from cannister to manifold)
You can see some of the actions contradict each other, which is why there are two valve flappers usually. And that is usually all this stuff is, rubber diaphragms and some very light springs to give a residual pressure limit.
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I would also state that unclear statements will cloud this issue even more...
For instance, for woldson's comments, if you read it all, it appears he is talking about a 240mm setup.
But if someone misses that point, and reads his later comments about using a '240 flywheel' it can easily be misconstrued as 240Z and not 240mm.
Since most talk about the 240(Z) flywheel is lighter, and desirable for performacne applications, one could question what is being said, or take the wrong impression away.
Semantics? Sure... But you can send people off in the wrong direction by simple omissions like this.
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HKS and SK (Sangyo-Kiki) made these back in the 80's and earlier. I have one that mounts a Mitsubishi Turbo for the S30.
Mine does not have the wastegate provision, as the Mistu Turbo had an internal wastegate. Normally HKS stuff has their markings on it, but that would be my guess, they used non-wastegated turbos on a lot of their early kits.
As for the stock turbo manifold 'not flowing well' I would ask for a more precise definition: are you talking theoretical numbers or vague results that theoretically mean the thing won't make horsepower? Or stating it restricts horsepower to some set number?
Then again, which turbo manifold? The euro unit has internal passages larger than the SFP Tubular replacement!
A lot of this stuff is rooted in theoretical discussions---it's like stating the ONLY way to do a brake job 'right' is to mindlessly REPLACE the calipers, hardware, rotors, pads, hoses, etc... In reality it's ONE way to do it, but not necessarily 'right' any more than competent inspection and replacement of components indicating a need to be replaced.
There was a thread recently showing short unequal length headers in F1, and concurrent designs of other brands using equal length headers. Each was making comparable horsepower.
I think this is the case with the 'U Bend' discussion after a relatively well designed exhaust manifold. I think the turns AFTER the turbo have a FAR greater effect than what it's doing under high pressure.
For instance, wouldn't this turbo have a turbine exit which is relatively straight out the back of the car past the transmission? Which do you think is better, the stock setup with that 90 sharp bend right out of the turbine exit...or this?
Which do you think affects turbo breathing more?
I suspect it's on the outlet of the turbo FAR more than on the inlet side!
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That's a LOT of hp on a rough tune.
JeffP's non-crossflow head on a bone stock L28ET bottom end made 465Hp at 20psi last I checked.
While the DOHC has all this allure, the non-crossflow is good to over 1000 hp in endurance trim. I mean, really, how much HP do you want?
You can port a non-crossflow head to accomodate that kind of horsepower for around $3000 complete.
Let's not get stupid here getting all impressed with 'gee wiz it's DOHC'...There is not a practical advantage, really, when the costs are factored in other than the "Gee Wiz" factor!
N/A S20's were running 345+HP when Nissan ceased development, I only wish they had about 500 produced in one year instead of 416 total... that would make it legal for G/PRO at Bonneville, and it would kick some butt on that damn Cosworth Vega!
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I have watched the 'specialty construction' get snapped up in HOURS in the past couple of years. All the guys with cobras and FF5 cars snatch those up every year.
Long story short: I had an L24 that predated US introduction. I had all the documents showing the engine was put into a 1973 vehicle pre may 1984 which would allow it to be legally predated so the car would smog as a 1970.
But BECAUSE it was a NON USA MOTOR it had to be put into compliance with CA specifications coinciding with the year of manufacture of the motor.
You got a JDM motor, they will make you comply with the US Spec. If it was not offered in the USA, you're SOL.
CA SMOG is not about cleaning the air any more, it's about controlling the vehcile population to only vehicles produced within the past 5 to 10 years.
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Get one from a Geo Metro, EVAP capacity is roughly equivalent, but it's DINKY!
And fits nicely behind the right wheel in the fender well (or under the light bucket on the same side)...
Don't need that cannister in the engine bay to have it functional!
There are check valves available, take a look how the L28ET vents the charcoal cannister and you will know all you need to know. The FSM is online for free!
BTW, you really want the tank to have a couple of inches water column when low on gas (and consequently hot as hell from recirculation)---this blanke t gas pressure keeps the fuel pump primed with sufficent NPSH to prevent cavitation in the pump inlet due to the terrible vapor pressure characteristics of today's fuels!
Sorry, I'm a geek, I think about this kind of stuff way too much!
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Perhaps my commentary on the questions proved too inflammatory?
I should go check...
I see that dissention on tacitly approving someone running motorized things around the street with a .29 BAC is not tolerated at the postcard site. As I figured. "We's men, men's drink! Yeeeehawwww!"
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yep...
yep...
yep...
Do they still use the term 'ate-up maggot'?
LOL
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for some reason, this didn't post last evening:
"Ours was built in a shed in Claremont"
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You do know the 'WOT' contacts on the switch are active at 35% throttle opening, right?
Probably a better idea is to use a latching relay and an RPM sensitive switch from an MSD or someting. (Aux Relay driver off a MS box...)
Or a Hobbs Pressure Switch in conjunction with a dual-stage boost controller. Set the Hobbs to activate at 7psi, and open the dump, and use a boost controller with 5 and 28psi as your two normal driving modes. During low boost, the cutout is not activated, but once you switch to 'high boost' the hobbs will open at 7psi giving you a straightpipe for the rest of the time on boost. Maybe a slight timer delay on reclosing, and that would take care of lifting for shifts.
Then again, I was always happy with a T-Handle next to the seat on the trany tunnel...
New electric ones are nice, as you can use a small switch instead.
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Yeah....
"Dighera, I always new there was something about you..."
TSgt Smith, 18EMS Orderly Room
There was an E5 Giveaway? I was one of two who made the cut out of 400 in PACAF. At that point, I was redlined for 'quality force' reasons. I guess being competent and meeting all fitness requirements other than being 'overweight' (with <7% BodyFat via Immersion Nomogram) was enough to disqualify you for service in 1989.
My Shop Chief was livid 'Oh, we're going to fight this!'
Chief, the only reason you give a crap about me is because you want to go to AWACS AGE and brag your troop was one of two in PACAF to make the Staff Cut in the career field (and I was #1, blew away the cut on first testing cycle I was eligible with minimum time in grade, and APR's that went 9,9,7,9... Not a great thing for WAPS) Some times I have to laugh at the rules they made back then.
I hear it's worse now for some things. Nothing like entrenching bureaucrats bent on standards of inanity unparallelled in most Civilian Circles.
It's not 'only in the Air Force'---it's more like "Only in the Gubbmint" it's like a disease!
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154641
Links to the real useful synchroniser tools in the thread above.
It's like going Italian: Once you've done it that way, you will never go back to the old way!
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BTW: If a Sra was actually doing this, and not in on it he's a goober...you should know better by then.
I do not have the confidence in the WAPS that would have me making that same statement!
As a SrA I got E-5's on the Nuke Spark Plugs thing since I was relatively 'fresh out of tech school' I convinced them it was real. Somewhere on this site, there is a reference to the same scam... It can still fly today! When I tested for E5, the E-4 Buck Sgt that was my 'supervisor' at the time scored 37 SKT, 48 PFE...
I was 98SKT, 98PFE, and the questions I missed I changed... But he was my 'supervisor'... I got him on a lot of stuff as well. It was always fun to use the T.O.'s like weapons. Especially when you can quote them by number section, and page as to why you're doing something. They always left you alone to go 'check it out' and usually left you alone the rest of the day trying to figure out 'how does he know that?' Er, maybe because I can read?
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The movie evokes an emotional response.
I have not made it to ONE meet at ElMirage this year. I am now outfitted with the portable DVD Player, Stereo, and Projector to be able to project movies outside on my trailer side.
I'm betting the perennial favorite at the Lake will be "World's Fastest Indian"...
Kind of like Rocky Horror Picture Show for Gasolineheads! LOL
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"Dighera I need you to go down and bring me back 12 yards of Flightline from the Fab Shop"
Nonchalantly went to the tool crib and checked out some large chains and the keys to one of the AGE Tugs. TSGT that sent me on the trip was looking quizzically at me from some distance as I hear my supervisor go ask him why I was getting chain...
"I don't know, I sent him to the fab shop to get 12 yards of flightline (chortle chortle)"
My supervisor FREAKS raspy wispers in a panic: "Man you don't screw with Dighera man, dat muffu**a's crazy, he's gonna go hook those damn chains up AND REALLY BRING YOU BACK SOME DAMN FLIGHT LINE!"
Then they all tried to dissuade me for some time from going and tearing up the tarmac because I was ordered to do so...
These guys with the detection device are the guys that go to the Avionics Shop to pick up an A-S-H Receiver, or spend time trying to activate the Kick Start or Voice Command NF2 Light Cart... the same guys who went hook and sinker for the Nuke Plugs in Packette Engines... Oh, the list goes on...
Airman, Stand Down.
Nothing has changed in 25 years...
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Get the SK or Weber tool, 1000% better, and cheaper than what they want for the unisyn nowadays.
There was a thread on this not too long ago with some photos and JC Whitney references to the part numbers.
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Not at Bonneville they haven't. Or any of the other SCTA sanctioned events.
Going 200mph is easy, buy a Veryon and go 200 mph.
Now do it with people watching, in a set distance, over a two-way average with strict compliance scruitineering as to engine displacement, etc and it gets more select. There have been F1 Drivers who have come to the salt and gone away not only with no hat, they didn't even come close to the record they thought they would easily set despite the trailers of support engineers and technological help they received.
I've gone faster in my street car that we have at El Mirage. Then again, it doesn't meet the specs for my class. Which is why I salute those guys going 161 in the stock body Z. That is SOME accomplishment!
Going over 200 is not really the point, it's doing it under the conditions required, compared to others competing in the same class of displacement.
Every year each and every one of the other places it could possibly occur, it gets easier due to technology.
At the salt, every year, for the exact same reason it gets easier everywhere else, there it gets HARDER.
It's not just going 200mph. It's breaking a record that is 200mph or more in the class. If you break a record and it's over 200mph, that does not mean you automatically get your cap. There are rules for the 200mph club that set more stringent speed requirements that are usually higher than the standing record. It's not simply going 200 that gets it for you.
You have to go faster than someone else's record that is over 200 mph. And every year everybody is going faster, so the bar is continually moved higher. For the same displacement. For the same induction style. For the same body class.
It's not like NHRA where you can run unlimited displacement and the guy with the big engine goes the fastest. There are people with 2 liter cars with the Red Hat. Bit more work there than using a 8 liter to go the same speed, don't you think? And the particular conditions that exist at Bonneville add challenges that are unique in the motorsports world.
And that was the contention. Those other people you contend have gone over 200mph---all they need to do is take their car to Bonneville and run there to get that cap. But again, it's not merely going to that set bar speed, it's going faster than someone else in the same class as your car... or performing to the boards expectation of the vehicles capabilities above 200mph to the level they set.
The statement wasn't inclusive of motorsport drivers, it was limited to those competing to the set of rules extant at the salt. Same as it ever was... It's a bit different than buying a Veryon and making the run out of AbuDahabi to the Airport saying "I went 200+mph!"
Nobody stands in awe of The Stig and his feats of speed. But read the list of the 200MPH Club at Bonneville. There are names there that are like a who's who of motorsports history.
Throw out bearing/collar question
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Yeah, the problematic issue... That's why I kept it to the theory behind the parts. If you can understand this, you can figure it out---or at least get a direction on which way you need to go to fix it.
One of the issues is people using different terminology across platforms (S30/S130) where one kind uses 240mm flywheels and one kind uses 225mm flywheels.
I have NEVER liked people using '2+2 Clutch Assembly' for that reason. Really you need to know 240mm or 225, and 'early or late' within those parameters. Is the 240mm coupe a different cover and bearing assembly from a 2+2 240mm assembly?
See where that is going?
S30 2+2's run 240mm? Or do they run 225mm with heavier clutch covers?
It's all confusing when you start using terminology that can be misinterpreted. The problem really comes down to the CLUTCH COVER USED and then the DIAMETER.
Once you narrow down those two things, you find the selection of parts is narrowed considerably.
Me? I stick 1978 280Z 225mm Components from a 'five speed' in everything, and vary clutch cover weights and clutch facing composition. I haven't really found a need for 240mm components yet, but I've limited RWHP (turbocharged) to no more than 350 in 240 Coupes. Maybe the 260Z 2+2 at 2600# will need more, but I've still got clamping force and clutch facing in reserve...
That decision has kept me out of this mess for quite a while.
And gives my kid plenty of 240Z clutch components for his L20B 510 Wagon. For which he likely is now set for life with my take-offs!