Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Don't think that grinding down a 50mm journal to a small diameter doesn't weaken the crankshaft. This is done in VW engines all the time, and we all recognize that on some of the stroker cranks we are taking the life of the crankshaft in our own hands decreasing cross sectional width! Will it matter in THIS application? Maybe not, but there is no way a 43, or even 48mm Rod Journal diameter is as strong as a 50mm one...it's basic mechanics.
But one thing people miss is that by using that smaller diameter rod diameter, it's not a STRAIGHT cut from 50 to 48, but an OFFSET cut---this increases the stroke of the crankshaft without requiring welding.
Chevy guys do it all the time in little steps. Taking a VO7 and then offset grinding it, or even welding the journals and offset grinding it can make for a couple of MM increase of stroke.
But your rod ratio may go south...LOL
Ozconnection...I see you found my 'secret identity'! Sometimes I actually do, DO things! LOL
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Argh, let me make it not so 'subtle':
The FLAT TOPS have a separate idle circuit in them, allowing their needles to have a more agressive off-idle power taper.
When you put them in a Typical SU you will get the same thing you already have: right up top, too rich down low.
Without the custom cut needles and LOTS of time to achieve proper mix at all stations on the needle, it's not going to change.
Seriously, HIF6's are preferred in Europe on a lot of cars simply because you don't have to make the 'Rich down low, just right up top' compromise. You simply adjust the idle like a conventional carb, and use the SU like you normally do...save the needle/jet relationship is accomplished with a screw as well, no more reaching under the car to adjust it blind or by feel.
Again I mock: "Flat tops are instruments of the Devil!"
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Really? I have NEVER done that before.
Woah, Holy Terrible Test Batman! That is Auto 101, compression checks can be argued over cold or operational temperature, but anything but a WOT is never in question.
Normally you will get good compression on the first few cylinders taken due to air in the plenum. If you are quick, then the numbers start to go down and by the last cylinder are crap giving terribly misleading results to the test.
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Oh, this is a Ferenghi Rules of Acquisition Profit Motive thing, huh?
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No news is good news?
I think I touched on something like Randy mentioned in another thread earlier in the month.
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Er, the evacuation of the 45 pipe in the exhaust will reduce crankcase pressure buildup. I can show you pipes in a 100psi header with a vacuum on them relative to atmospheric pressure due to the velocity in them. I doubt the pressure in the exhaust post turbo would be 1.5 psi...maybe 1.5" water column but with the velocity across the orifice a great pressuredifferential (suction) would be available... But the reference was to crankcase pressure buildup.
A.K.A. 'Backpressure'...
Some guys promote no PCV system under some misguided belief that it doesn't have any positive effects. Akin to some people believing 'some amount of backpressure in the exhaust is beneficial to the low end power production'...
I guess if you have to explain the joke to the audience...it was probably flying too high anyway. Sorry Guys, I thought it was witty at the time.
Apparently not.
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25 years ago...
I just got pilloried someplace else after suggesting some things being claimed as new were in existence on L-Engines 25 years ago and this is just another one of those things.
Goes to show, if you think you're doing something nobody ever did before....likely you're wrong!
Should make you somewhat humble, it does to me.
Neat setup, appears that the compressor mount is block-based off the A/C bracket holes, probably sufficiently rigid using the HTD belt and it's lower tension requirements compared with the multi rib-v or straight v-belts used on other systems.
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I had to screw that damnable screw UP after I changed to cable throttle direct off the pedal! I was gingerly using the throttle and snapped the cable once...WTF? Then checked and realized the cable was so strong it FELT like I was on the stop...but in reality it was just bottoming the mikuinis against the stops (and then not deflecting or twisting the arms on the rod, amazingly!) After enough hardfooted stomping, POP!
Afterwards the pedal hit about right for brake pedal and throttle pedal synch. Bummer, eh?
I'm hoping this transfers to the ITBs when they go on. I hate crawling around under the dash adjusting things...
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7230, and 7490... now, please refer to the post from Chris at BHJ about what their product does...
And realize that the issue for ANY harmonic or resonant frequency is to pass through it as quickly as possible...
Centrifugal compressors all run through at least one critical speed on their way to running speed, usually before the second critical. Some older reciprocating engines had two criticals which had to be contended with during operation, especially during variable load/speed conditions. Experienced operators knew the speeds (on a 360rpm Cooper, 120 was one of the speeds, only a problem in compressor service, and then only early on when the engine was rated at 180rpms, later speed was increased, and then increased again making the engine pass through two criticals when reaching operating speed!) and could tell when they got close, and when you 'hit the sweet spot' things happened fast if you were heavily loaded. I wish I could get Andre to chime in here, but he's way too busy, he did developmental work on Sulzer Crankshafts and his knowledge in this area staggered me while we talked about it down in Australia last month. But alas, he's a Bike Guy and concentrates on his Ducatis and surfing now...
Continued operation above or below the critical speed is fine.
Do you think with simple gearing you can keep your car from loitering at 72-7400 rpms for extended periods? I think you can. This ceases to be an issue, especially with the current state of harmonic dampners (again Chris' Post elsewhere).
Remember the MYTH is that you can't run the cranks over 7500, so people limit their engines there. Putting them operating RIGHT on the critical speeds. They have a failure. They tell everybody: My engine came apart and broke crankshafts when I ran it at 7500, ergo you can't run them above 7500 rpms.
I worked with diseased hogs all day and ate an apple for lunch. I came down with Swine Flue. Apples cause swine flu...
Most racers in the 70's were running 8000+ for endurance events. What happened to the 7500 harmonics issue.
It's overblown. Yes, there may be a harmonic, but Chris does an excellent job (and linked a PDF from BHJ's Website as I recall) on the issue.
For the record, we haven't bought a BHJ Damper for the N/A engine, likely we will run either a BHJ or ATI for the Turbo car in both 2.0 and 2.8 configuration simply because of the crank impulses we plan to generate per hole.
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I think it's duplicitious that Pay Pal doesn't make this option known more openly! They are sucking fees for a service they are not really providing. In my instances I have paid for someone's hotel room or something and left town before they were paid, a wire transfer or bank funds transfer is impossibly complex in the USA (not so in Europe where it's fee free for the most part) so having them 'wire' me the money through Pay Pal was always a punishment on their part because they always thought they would have to add 3% so they didn't stiff me for helping them out.
I for one, really appreciate this little tidbit, because someone will be doing a transfer of around 400 Euros to me... if it can go to a Paypal Account as Euros, then I can use it as such for purchases without incurring their international funds conversion fee as well. I can just park the money there for future use. Kind of like keeping local currency for use when you return.
For cost reimbursement of something already done, cut, and dried, this would be the way to do it. There shouldn't be a fee associated with it given they will nail you for a crappy conversion rate on an international transaction anyway.
This reminds me, I got to send someone $500 for some bits....hmmmmm...how convienient...
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There is a reason you see those neat TIG welds on the strut tube/spindle junction point on competition cars...
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Unless the L20A is fully counter weighted (none of the other L6's are so I don't see why It would be) it would still be missing the same 4 counterweights on 2 and 5, leaving the surrounding counterweights to make up for it. I was reading in my "how to modify you're 510 & 240Z" books that at a bit lower rpm than what that L20 was running the cranks still died fast due to harmonics above 8k.
Please understand that Frank Honsoweitz didn't actually do any of that engine work he just wrote about it, and in most cases he is relating stories that sometimes are of mixed origin/cross platform. The 'crank harmonics' thing is soooooo overblown it's not funny. In most instances people simply don't comprehend what they are reading---the issues with non-counterweighted cranks are limited to the first L24's to the country and nothing more. JDM L20A's had several variations, some of which were fully counterweighted (?!) the engine in the video is not one of them. Full counterweighting is not necessarily needed.
Trust me, that video is nothing.
The revving capabilities of the L Engine are shrouded more in myth and legend than actual hard data. I would suggest that anybody limiting their engine to 7500 due to 'crank harmonics issues' seriously consider unrestraining their motor.
This has nothing to do with Detonation and rod stroke ratio, but I can tell you the engine in the video has an L20A crank, L20A Block, and L20B Rods... do that calculation boys and girls. Maybe move this one to a new post now that I've mucked this one up totally throwing that tidbit out there...
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So is this another example of a myth of 'beneficial backpressure' is debunked once again???
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I have done that aleady, and it runs too rich down low to make up for the correct mixture up top. if i run it like this it will fill the crankcase with gas.
The cheapest thing for me to do is order some re-profiled needles. but i called ztheropy and they didn;'t have anything for me.
This is typical of the SU setup. This is why the Hitachi Flat Tops, or the HIF 6 Style SU are preferred for performance applications. With a separate idle circuit, the idle and transition can be tailored for emissions, while the main needle is used for cruise and performance.
It's why so many people savage the flat tops for the needles in the Junkyard, as well, the taper is much more agressive than SU's.
But remember, "The Flat Tops are Instruments of the Devil":icon56:
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No special canister is needed, under vacuum the cannister pulls the breaker plate in one direction, under pressure it pushes in the other.
But in the 'push' direction the travel is limited. You have to open up the slots to let it retard further than 0 degrees. The website I am thinking of is related to 510's but it's the same for the six cylinder models.
Then again, getting an E12-80 distributor off a European Turbo Car would do the same thing, it retards under boost... No ECCS timing control on thos cars, they they have 200HP stock, no catalyst, and standard EFI style Computer on it!
Good luck finding one of those!
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Since the other 'debate' went away, I didn't get to mention something that was grating on me but that I couldn't confirm till just recently.
In September 2009 issue of Onschatbare Klassieker Magazine, there is a little blurb celebrating 50 years of the crumple zone as introduced by Mercedes Benz on the W111 Series Vehicles 11 August 1959.
And this goes back to the ocntention that 'crumple zones' were some 'new safety development', the W111 was around $13,500 at the time, whereas a Cadillac (62 Series was it? Esentially the same as the Bel Air) was around $5,000.
Mercedes made a decision after patenting the design not to enforce their patent rights, and to let others use their safety advancements freely.
John Coffee mentioned that Mercedes had a cost structure to support the implementation of these safety designs...but really the costs for crumple zones are not that great.
What it comes back down to is in 1959 there was a choice to make: Buy Mercedes (designed by engineers, marketed by engineers) or Buy American (designed by engineers, decontented by accoutnants and marketing wonks).
There really was no reason for a 1959 Bel Air not to have these designs incorporated, but for reasons that have become all to painfully clear these past two years, GM didn't like to jump on any bandwagons when what they sold was selling just fine.
But the choice was still there, you could choose what you wanted. Today you can't... Everything is held to a ridiculous (IMO) standard of 'crash safety'
I would really like to see the following crash from the safety people: 2009 Malibu and 59 Mercedes W111. (That one might not make such a dramatic propaganda point for them, so likely they will never do it.)
59 Bel Air and 59 Mercedes W111 (interesting to see 59 'krukelzones' on the Mercedes work against a contemporary vehicle...)
And as mentioned...to see what would have happened if the Bel Air Driver was wearing the Seat Belt provided in the vehicle...which I think kind of skewed the test.
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I saw a Halibrand Knockoff wheel split yesterday. The results were the breaking in half of an original Ford GT40 into front and rear pieces as it went off the Eau Rouge corner at speed and hit the wall hard...BANG!
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"You guys get pulled over a lot"
Interesting observation...but like I stated, I quit a job because it EXPOSED me to police too much. I got pulled over in the carpool lane of the 10 freeway on memorial day weekend because "i was following that transit bus too closely"...
Transit bus was going 40 on the interstate (Illegal, below the minimum speed) and his 'coast light' was not functional, so when he abruptly slowed down to 15mph, I closzed the gap (somewhat unexpectedly, admittedly) to pass him in the next car pool lane opening... I was petrified to pull out on a straight section of the roadway as the flow of the intermittent traffic was well over 80mph and I didn't want to get reaR-ENDED.
Cop was a noob. Wanted to know why I was in the carpool lane alone as well (CNG Vehicle with appropriate stickers)... When you get exposed continually to the lowest moron on the totempole your chances of getting pulled over during 'enhanced enforcement periods' is greatly increased.
That encounter cemented in my mind the decision to leave that company. I had been pulled over more in 6 months working there than the entire period between 1993 and 2003 after leaving the job in Brea where I got tagged the 7 times in 6 weeks.
It's exposure to people that have something to prove that increases your chances of getting pulled over. Most of the time, there are far more important things to do... but midnight to 2AM on holiday weekends? Oh, they're playing odds, I just wish when a stupid noob makes a clear mistake they had enough sense to just let it ride.
Got pulled over leaving a club meeting by an obvious 'training day' scenario, rookie and training officer. Sez 'you can't have green headlights, sir...nobody will see you'...
1) Thought in my head immediately: "Your partner sure did a Woodsy Owl twisting his head around when he went through the intersection looking at me!"
2) Second thought in my head: "This is contraindicatory to the studies showing that humans have more yellow-green rods and cones in the eyes to better distinguish those colors, my headlights are likely to be the BEST seen oncoming lights from somebody LEAST likely to see any other color!"
But I keep it shut.
Go through the motions, with the training officer realizing they were just parking lights, and LEGAL. But Rookie HAS to write me up for something, even after I demonstrate the running lights (same as in a Mercedes E300 at the time...) and his partner says "Oh COOL!"
So he writes me for 'illegal headlamps' --- I sign off my own fixit ticket, then go to the court and plead not guilty for the judge. It ends up getting thrown out as it's black letter law in the CVC on colors the lights can be when 'off' and my lights were 'off' as demonstrated to them, and to the court. I hate noobs with something to prove...
Does it show?
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Yeah, my question would be when you say 'lost' valve springs, did they break?
That may be simple metallurgy, and if they only replaced the broken parts, then the rest are ssupect and likely on the way to the same fate.
Springs are cheap, they go as a set.
After several sets, using a spring scale and keeping track of 'hours' may allow you to assemble a full set of 'emergency trackside spares' for future short-term use of already broken in and shimmed correctly springs for quick replacement should something bad happen.
Arms being chucked usually comes from a pivot that works loose and lets em fly! This your case as well?
Good Luck, stuff like this can suck when you're trying to nail it down.
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But if I don't spell it with a PH then Big Fil might get upset...
Just spent the first evening in Amsterdam with Frank280ZX, Xander, and, well...the Boy.
He will tell stories they will never believe back in California when he goes back to high school.
And tonight, I guess the plan is 'repeat'...
Frank also says "HI" to skib...as he has an affinity for any errant Dutchman, on the far ends of the earth...
I love the blog! That about summed up the post!
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UPS Ships nationwide.
What are your issues?
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In 85-89 I was spewing genes all over asia. Notably Korea and the PI.
None of you guys are Korean, Thai, Okinawian, Phillipino immigrants, are you? "I could be your father"...
That would explain a lot of our similarities in outlook and bitterness.
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Following too closely is never the car in front's fault...
That's about the time you wish you had a reds hydraulic kit to flash your brakelights and pump your butt up in the air like you are braking hard...but ACCELERATE AWAY. They hop on the brakes hard and wet their pants...
Then, oh then you're really in for it! But man I would set up a camera in the bumper to take a flash photograph of their face. I would look at it whenever I wondered why I was standing in line to pay whatever fine it was...
The look on their faces would be WAY worth it!
What can I say, I'm warped...
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A 20? Didn't they change the rating systems for the ACT, or was that the SAT? I remember our old business manager at Getty was a Harvard Grad that played ball for them (Gary Quantoch)---his joke was that Harvard required a 760 on EACH section of the SAT, and that The Big 10 required 760 combined. We all got a laugh about that. At least some of us did. The guy who was the Texas Aggie was not amused. Curiously he was the only one the company retained when they sold out...
I know some of the guys I hung around with had to retake the ACT because the USAF Academy required like a 26 to get in...and they didn't have it. I was like 'you didn't get a 26?' They were kind of shocked when I had a 27. Barely eligible...
So they both ended up going, geting booted out on honors violations... one became an Exotic Dancer in Florida, the other went to MIT for post grad work. The exotic dancer went on disability for falling off the stage and injuring his knee pretty badly...so he got a free retraining package and was able to take time off and complete school. I think he sells insurance products. The MIT guy still makes jokes about our sliderules and pocket protectors and whenever we coordinate a meeting we make sure to find a vintage pocket protector to one-up each other. I have a NASA/COSMODYNE/APOLLO 11 that shut him down bigtime last time we met. I think after that he's been avoiding me.
You all know what happened to me! LOL
"We Digress"
P90A vs. P90 compression Test
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Gauge Accuracy...
Meh. The numbers are consistent, some would say even if your gauge is showing 30 across the board and the engine runs, then the functional test of the compression check passes. Expecially if you see no change doing the 'wet test'.
The compression check is not in any way an end-all to engine diagnostics, it's only one step in a comprehensive evaluation. Cylinder Leakdown, evidence of smoke, oil consumption, sounds, smells, running smoothness.... it's a lot more comprehensive than most people would think. Sure getting an alarming number might get you closely looking at the engine---and in that context the current gauge you have did exactly what it should have done: get you looking at everything to see a bigger picture.
I have some glycerine filled Ashcroft gauges I retrofitted to Harbor Freight compression sets. I like the setup, save they can' t be armored nicely so I have to wrap them in foam or be very careful when working with them. Same goes for the EFI pressure tester, etc. You can always get another gauge, once you have a decent setup you like working with.