Tony D

They are availabe through any number of Nissan Vendors, and Japanese Parts suppliers bringing them over on a regular basis. Pricing new runs anywhere from $140 to 340 a pair, New in Nissan Boxes. Used, on e-bay, pricing can be better, or foolish, depending on if some 'dumbass' didn't realize they were still available new, and bid them to some stratospheric level! But you know they're available new, right? LOL

OPTION NOT GIVEN: Buy another car, start on it, keep this one and drive it. "A car is a hole, suspended in mid air by four rubber doughnuts. Into the hole, you throw money, which will never be returned. The doughnuts, you cannot eat." What's done is done, remember the above and just buy another, while enjoying a completed project. When you get tired of driving it, as the other project consumes more resources, then consider selling it. This is not a 'linear proposition' by any means, two lines of development can occur simultaneously. But you're finished with the blue car, right, so just drive it now and enjoy it... Muahahahaha!

1)Nissan Motor Corporation 2)To fit within domestic width regulations in the Japan Market.

Anybody remember the TV commercial where the business owner was being dazzled by the 20 something web designer showing them a flaming company logo rotating in the corner of the page... While the owner asked for real time inventory tracking and the ability to access data remotely from any portal? Some of that going on there. I long for a text-based BBS on my old modem, I swear I got more information there taking 30 minutes to load my digest than some new improved websites that take seconds to load on a cable modem. Now, if it doesn't load in the time of basic text, I skip it. The ADDHD generation has bred intolerance of site pages that load graphics first, and the information you want DEAD LAST (even after the popups!) Bye Bye! Next Website...

Had 'em for 25 years, haven't found the need to move them yet. Prefer them because of the way they knock out the 'blind spots' inherent in closer mirror placement to the driver. So for me they 'are worth it'...

What is the instrumentation? If you are getting superheated steam pockets back in 5/6 and they now have a direct way to get to the sensor and blast across it...instead of sitting back there festering, or coming back into solution on the way to the front of the block.

First photos of the Kenmeri Skyline was backed up to my wife's Frontier/Navara... I roasted myself in the sun yesterday, and now...off to the tropics for some more work. Bah! Nice snaps. Thanks.

Stock Nissan L Bearings were supplied thusly at one time, now many are NLA and people get them from aftermarket sources like Clevite/Michigan77 or Childs & Albert.... and they stock 'standard' sized shells, and not the stuff in fractional thou increments like Nissan had in the past.

Who says it's not still in my hand NOW? Muahahahahahaha! And for the record, I think someone mentioned that somebody should put their Euro Turbo Distributor into someone's Distributor Machine to run an advance/retard map so people can set up their US Spec Distributors accordingly... Anybody remember that discussion, right before talking about JeffP's little spark plug environmental testing chamber...with someone?

If you look at the lists of vehicles you gave...which ones have Webers/Mikuinis, and which ones have EFI...and which ones give you the best performance and economy? That kind of answers the question well...

Gauge Accuracy... Meh. The numbers are consistent, some would say even if your gauge is showing 30 across the board and the engine runs, then the functional test of the compression check passes. Expecially if you see no change doing the 'wet test'. The compression check is not in any way an end-all to engine diagnostics, it's only one step in a comprehensive evaluation. Cylinder Leakdown, evidence of smoke, oil consumption, sounds, smells, running smoothness.... it's a lot more comprehensive than most people would think. Sure getting an alarming number might get you closely looking at the engine---and in that context the current gauge you have did exactly what it should have done: get you looking at everything to see a bigger picture. I have some glycerine filled Ashcroft gauges I retrofitted to Harbor Freight compression sets. I like the setup, save they can' t be armored nicely so I have to wrap them in foam or be very careful when working with them. Same goes for the EFI pressure tester, etc. You can always get another gauge, once you have a decent setup you like working with.

Don't think that grinding down a 50mm journal to a small diameter doesn't weaken the crankshaft. This is done in VW engines all the time, and we all recognize that on some of the stroker cranks we are taking the life of the crankshaft in our own hands decreasing cross sectional width! Will it matter in THIS application? Maybe not, but there is no way a 43, or even 48mm Rod Journal diameter is as strong as a 50mm one...it's basic mechanics. But one thing people miss is that by using that smaller diameter rod diameter, it's not a STRAIGHT cut from 50 to 48, but an OFFSET cut---this increases the stroke of the crankshaft without requiring welding. Chevy guys do it all the time in little steps. Taking a VO7 and then offset grinding it, or even welding the journals and offset grinding it can make for a couple of MM increase of stroke. But your rod ratio may go south...LOL Ozconnection...I see you found my 'secret identity'! Sometimes I actually do, DO things! LOL

Argh, let me make it not so 'subtle': The FLAT TOPS have a separate idle circuit in them, allowing their needles to have a more agressive off-idle power taper. When you put them in a Typical SU you will get the same thing you already have: right up top, too rich down low. Without the custom cut needles and LOTS of time to achieve proper mix at all stations on the needle, it's not going to change. Seriously, HIF6's are preferred in Europe on a lot of cars simply because you don't have to make the 'Rich down low, just right up top' compromise. You simply adjust the idle like a conventional carb, and use the SU like you normally do...save the needle/jet relationship is accomplished with a screw as well, no more reaching under the car to adjust it blind or by feel. Again I mock: "Flat tops are instruments of the Devil!"

Woah, Holy Terrible Test Batman! That is Auto 101, compression checks can be argued over cold or operational temperature, but anything but a WOT is never in question. Normally you will get good compression on the first few cylinders taken due to air in the plenum. If you are quick, then the numbers start to go down and by the last cylinder are crap giving terribly misleading results to the test.

Oh, this is a Ferenghi Rules of Acquisition Profit Motive thing, huh?

No news is good news? I think I touched on something like Randy mentioned in another thread earlier in the month.

Er, the evacuation of the 45 pipe in the exhaust will reduce crankcase pressure buildup. I can show you pipes in a 100psi header with a vacuum on them relative to atmospheric pressure due to the velocity in them. I doubt the pressure in the exhaust post turbo would be 1.5 psi...maybe 1.5" water column but with the velocity across the orifice a great pressuredifferential (suction) would be available... But the reference was to crankcase pressure buildup. A.K.A. 'Backpressure'... Some guys promote no PCV system under some misguided belief that it doesn't have any positive effects. Akin to some people believing 'some amount of backpressure in the exhaust is beneficial to the low end power production'... I guess if you have to explain the joke to the audience...it was probably flying too high anyway. Sorry Guys, I thought it was witty at the time. Apparently not.

25 years ago... I just got pilloried someplace else after suggesting some things being claimed as new were in existence on L-Engines 25 years ago and this is just another one of those things. Goes to show, if you think you're doing something nobody ever did before....likely you're wrong! Should make you somewhat humble, it does to me. Neat setup, appears that the compressor mount is block-based off the A/C bracket holes, probably sufficiently rigid using the HTD belt and it's lower tension requirements compared with the multi rib-v or straight v-belts used on other systems.

I had to screw that damnable screw UP after I changed to cable throttle direct off the pedal! I was gingerly using the throttle and snapped the cable once...WTF? Then checked and realized the cable was so strong it FELT like I was on the stop...but in reality it was just bottoming the mikuinis against the stops (and then not deflecting or twisting the arms on the rod, amazingly!) After enough hardfooted stomping, POP! Afterwards the pedal hit about right for brake pedal and throttle pedal synch. Bummer, eh? I'm hoping this transfers to the ITBs when they go on. I hate crawling around under the dash adjusting things...

7230, and 7490... now, please refer to the post from Chris at BHJ about what their product does... And realize that the issue for ANY harmonic or resonant frequency is to pass through it as quickly as possible... Centrifugal compressors all run through at least one critical speed on their way to running speed, usually before the second critical. Some older reciprocating engines had two criticals which had to be contended with during operation, especially during variable load/speed conditions. Experienced operators knew the speeds (on a 360rpm Cooper, 120 was one of the speeds, only a problem in compressor service, and then only early on when the engine was rated at 180rpms, later speed was increased, and then increased again making the engine pass through two criticals when reaching operating speed!) and could tell when they got close, and when you 'hit the sweet spot' things happened fast if you were heavily loaded. I wish I could get Andre to chime in here, but he's way too busy, he did developmental work on Sulzer Crankshafts and his knowledge in this area staggered me while we talked about it down in Australia last month. But alas, he's a Bike Guy and concentrates on his Ducatis and surfing now... Continued operation above or below the critical speed is fine. Do you think with simple gearing you can keep your car from loitering at 72-7400 rpms for extended periods? I think you can. This ceases to be an issue, especially with the current state of harmonic dampners (again Chris' Post elsewhere). Remember the MYTH is that you can't run the cranks over 7500, so people limit their engines there. Putting them operating RIGHT on the critical speeds. They have a failure. They tell everybody: My engine came apart and broke crankshafts when I ran it at 7500, ergo you can't run them above 7500 rpms. I worked with diseased hogs all day and ate an apple for lunch. I came down with Swine Flue. Apples cause swine flu... Most racers in the 70's were running 8000+ for endurance events. What happened to the 7500 harmonics issue. It's overblown. Yes, there may be a harmonic, but Chris does an excellent job (and linked a PDF from BHJ's Website as I recall) on the issue. For the record, we haven't bought a BHJ Damper for the N/A engine, likely we will run either a BHJ or ATI for the Turbo car in both 2.0 and 2.8 configuration simply because of the crank impulses we plan to generate per hole.

I think it's duplicitious that Pay Pal doesn't make this option known more openly! They are sucking fees for a service they are not really providing. In my instances I have paid for someone's hotel room or something and left town before they were paid, a wire transfer or bank funds transfer is impossibly complex in the USA (not so in Europe where it's fee free for the most part) so having them 'wire' me the money through Pay Pal was always a punishment on their part because they always thought they would have to add 3% so they didn't stiff me for helping them out. I for one, really appreciate this little tidbit, because someone will be doing a transfer of around 400 Euros to me... if it can go to a Paypal Account as Euros, then I can use it as such for purchases without incurring their international funds conversion fee as well. I can just park the money there for future use. Kind of like keeping local currency for use when you return. For cost reimbursement of something already done, cut, and dried, this would be the way to do it. There shouldn't be a fee associated with it given they will nail you for a crappy conversion rate on an international transaction anyway. This reminds me, I got to send someone $500 for some bits....hmmmmm...how convienient...

There is a reason you see those neat TIG welds on the strut tube/spindle junction point on competition cars...

Please understand that Frank Honsoweitz didn't actually do any of that engine work he just wrote about it, and in most cases he is relating stories that sometimes are of mixed origin/cross platform. The 'crank harmonics' thing is soooooo overblown it's not funny. In most instances people simply don't comprehend what they are reading---the issues with non-counterweighted cranks are limited to the first L24's to the country and nothing more. JDM L20A's had several variations, some of which were fully counterweighted (?!) the engine in the video is not one of them. Full counterweighting is not necessarily needed. Trust me, that video is nothing. The revving capabilities of the L Engine are shrouded more in myth and legend than actual hard data. I would suggest that anybody limiting their engine to 7500 due to 'crank harmonics issues' seriously consider unrestraining their motor. This has nothing to do with Detonation and rod stroke ratio, but I can tell you the engine in the video has an L20A crank, L20A Block, and L20B Rods... do that calculation boys and girls. Maybe move this one to a new post now that I've mucked this one up totally throwing that tidbit out there...

So is this another example of a myth of 'beneficial backpressure' is debunked once again???

This is typical of the SU setup. This is why the Hitachi Flat Tops, or the HIF 6 Style SU are preferred for performance applications. With a separate idle circuit, the idle and transition can be tailored for emissions, while the main needle is used for cruise and performance. It's why so many people savage the flat tops for the needles in the Junkyard, as well, the taper is much more agressive than SU's. But remember, "The Flat Tops are Instruments of the Devil":icon56: