Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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More likely you detonated and broke the ring and lands.
I would take your injectors out and send them for cleaning and balancing. To break a ring land in #1...my bet is the inlet screen or something is compromising flow and you lean-detonated it as opposed to 5/6 which is where it usually manifests.
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"You have to modiefied the fuel and ignition maps "
Believe what you will, sir. The evidence exists. People were making power with turbos well before HALTEC. And yes, on stock ECUs. You don't go 224mph at Bonneville with under 500HP in a 280ZX. That was 1991. Stock Datsun ECUs...no technology available to alter the stock L28ET boxes existed then, and still doesn't. No more "unstock" than your setup is, in fact!
I wouldn't get too boastful on saying a set of 370SVO injectors and an FMU is "stock" either.
I stand by what I posted. I have no skin in this game, I just call it when I see it, and this is "it"!
JeffP has a stock L28ET Block making 475 on a stock intake and exhaust manifold. But he's running a Z32 NA Box.
People have run the NA Boxes in Turbo Applications for years...in fact, the EuroZX had 200bhp bone stock in L28ET form without the fancy ECCS, using an E12-80 Distributor with a Turbo Boost Retard canister on it. And that setup make 386 HP reeeeeal easily if you know your way around fueling! That Dyno sheet was posted here some years back as well.
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Compressed Air and Compressed Air Systems is what I do for a living, and have done since 1984.
If you have questions, PM me. I will also be stateside from 20 Jan to 3 Feb if you want to call and talk in depth about your plans and shop system.
Look up "Simplair" from IR, there are a lot of copies out there now for nice, proper piping of an air system. They can make your life easier!
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Big Tank, Quincy is moving from Bay Minette...
Big Tank. If your budget permits, consider one of the newer stripped down screw units offered by GD or Atlas Copco. They are enclosed, and will make you rethink everything you know about compressors that go "thunkathunkathunka"
GX 3 or GX 5 is likely more than you will ever need, and likely the biggest you want to pay the electrical bill.
Kaeser may make something comparable, and since they're belt driven, the possibility of finding an older Kaeser SX5 and putting a single-phase motor in it like you would do with a recip is very possible.
Look at this brochure below. The Atlas Copco GX Series with integral dryer etc is likely the Cadillac of compressors.
The only reason I don't mention a unit from my current company seriously is because I don't think they sell the Asia-Pacific Packages in the USA. They make a small 100 psi machine that is killer--you supply the reservoir (if you get a screw machine, get the smallest you think you need, a 300 gallon tank, and set up modulation or a 2psi cut in cut out using a separate Mercoid switch)
I could go on for days....
As always, the conventional wisdom of buying a used (Quincy QRD!) industrial machine in the 5HP range and converting to single phase is always a wise option.
But review the sound levels for that GX Package unit. With the shop radio on, you will have a hard time figuring out if it's running, loading, or stopped!
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JeffP's build is running a GT35 and is now pumping over 500HP at 7,400 on a bone stock L28ET bottom-end using a Fel-Pro Head Gasket.
Quit looking for the "Magic Bullet"!
The reasons you guys are getting such atrocious spools and low specific horsepower is you are listening to anecdotes and simply assembling a basketful of parts without a clue as how they interact with each other.
I'd rethink that name as well. 340HP on a "Stock ECU" hardly qualifies as "King of the Dyno" -- there are photos at this site of someone making over 600HP to the rear wheels using the L28ET ECU.
Self-Promotion, it works great, until you're caught.
I don't know if the DYNO sheet was ever posted here, but the car running 224mph at Bonneville and experiencing a tire blowout is posted on You Tube. There was high performance before aftermarket ECU's!
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I won't answer that.
OMFG....
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Since the LD28 Alternator mounts in that side...I'd be wary of saying no brackets exist, or that make it difficult.
http://s348.photobucket.com/user/windsock_on_the_hill/media/Timingmarks012small.jpg.html
I don't know WHY you would want the alternator under the exhaust header soaking up all that heat, but grab some LDBrackets and have at it.
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If you were talking Carillo, or Merchart...we wouldn't be talking since they're about $1,200 a set.
Un-bushed prepped rods are one hell of a good deal, and of known durability.
Last I checked, bushings were $20 a rod plus the bushings. I don't know your "discount" for not bushing the small end, but that's looking to be $120 just for fitting. They're positively not a "requirement" by any means, get the lube hole proper and you're golden for that price!
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Let's consider what input we have here:
Running rods which are lighter, on an engine that doesn't see over 7,000rpms...
Someone else heard some other eBay rods were "good"...
FWIW:
"How to Modify" book specifically states floating pins without bushings is totally acceptable. The bushing really is wasted money as it's not a component that rotates. If it frets, or otherwise damages the rod, you can always bush it.
We ran I don't know how many seasons at Bonneville on pressed-in pins...which eventually walked (Pistons not light, RPMs quite a bit over 7,000 for extended periods at a time...like five-minute pulls...) every machinist and engine builder said "never seen a pressed-in piston pin do that before. Bores remained dimensionally accurate, we're not bushed, and retained press fit replacements (now with Teflon buttons!) just fine.
You can do what you want...but the "lightness" is really moot if you're not seriously competing and getting piston speeds up there, regularly.
Stock rods, prepped and with ARP bolts are cheaper? That's the way I'd go...since its proven effective for me in the past.
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Yeah, and then I innocently walk through a chance encounter and its "Tony? As in 'Tony D'? THAT WAS MY DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING YOU SONOFABITCH!"
I shoulda taken Malcolm's advice and been "Tony X" instead...
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You will get as much if not more power from a four barrel as you will on that setup as I described.
I bought my ITB's from a gent who had a 3.2 and did exactly what I said above---he wanted more power, but with a peak at 5,500 on the stock cam...what's the point? You can't take advantage of the breathing.
He ran his ITB's and was comparable in power. After a year, he took them off and sold them to me along with the efi system he bought. N/A just didn't make sense.
Triple ITB's on a Blowhthrough Turbo though....now THERE is something altogether different! "Boost is merely a reflection of restriction to flow..."
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It's worse when you find ads for Maserati BiTurbo Carbs on the net and go "well, maybe it would work better with those than with the Mikunis" but then I think "Shift, Ctrl, Arrow Up Up Up..." and go 'NAAAAAAAAW!'
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Bypass regulator
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As stated clearly in MS Forum: no IAC necessary, stick system of TB Bypass air through screw works just fine.
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"The Affliction"!
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As with any sale of rare or high end automobiles either agents or "the grapevine" is heavily involved.
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I don't know. What good a gauge there does. Before the regulator maybe....
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Some markets and vehicles used that as a heater connection point...
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That 'existing dash' can be loosely defined, though...
Such as poor kids spraying expanding foam and then carving it down with a bread knife...then attaching a dash cap with copious amounts of silicone!
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Insurance makes a LOT more sense to me in Commonwealth Nations like UK, Oz, Singapore, etc...
My bud in Liverpool had an engine fire in his Rivera Boat Tail, and really made out with the UK Historic Coverage he had as it was for 'restoration'... engine was on fire as water was deluged into it, and adjuster asked him to pull the plugs since he hadn't run it since. Found rust on 3 plugs scoped out with a torch and said "we will cover the parts for an engine overhaul if you will cover the labor" guy was shocked...he just wanted the paint and physical damage fixed. Never even THOUGHT about the engine ingesting water! Found most down below OK, but you order for the worst and since he was ordering from JEGS and Summitt Racing, and having me trans shipping in dense-packed surface freight he ended up with about 1/10th the cost of the shipping! It also helped that all the parts were out of their boxes and listed as "loose parts, one lot, surplus engine overhaul"... Those Brits and their aversion to taxes, you swear they'd almost dump their tea in the harbor over them!
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Extreme280ZXT.
That should find his Angelfire page
I might suggest Bob Tomlinson't book "Turbomania" though it's dated.
Corky's method of just throwing boost at an engine makes life complex. Regardless of what he says.
Did he mention he has things to sell you?
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That's what I was getting at ... That's a link time with a flex hone. As long as the bores measure out properly all is good.
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The shops will do whatever you pay them to do.
It's insurance companies limiting their casualty losses making the financial decision to pay out and "total the vehicle" as a loss rather than repair it.
I have seen the same GT40 go backwards into the same wall and be broken in two THREE CONSECUTIVE YEARS RUNNING, yet every year it's rebuilt to as new and returns for the race. Last scuttlebutt was it cost a bit over $1.1 million dollars to do it the last time.
You don't need insurance if you have money and fix it yourself.
I've got a '90 Z32 2/2 in a container that's proof of that!
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"Free valve"? I just saw that link...AKA. "Desmodromic Valves" ...
Remember, these valves aren't "the size valves in an L-Engine"! That's kinda the point.
Triple Mikuni and fuel rail diagram ?.
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
I would parallel the cooling bodies in all three carbs with the downstream line of the FPR before fuel cooler.
It needs a separate path unrestricted by the FPR. If you have top end fuel starvation you can limit that flow with a needle valve on the outlet of the last carb ( always throttle temperature control on the outlet of the heat exchanger to prevent boiling )
If you have a high flow pump, those small cooling body returns won't bleed much. In the OEM setup in a 240Z using the mechanical fuel pump, the return line from the rail put ALL fuel through the cooling bodies downstream of the carbs, as the size of the fittings is equivalent in flow to the return line sizing on the 69-73 240Z's!