Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Also, THERE IS NO "BEST"!
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Well, if we're going to dredge up necroposted threads, remember well into the 80's SU's were still on emissions compliant Hondas in the USA.
The four barrel had been abandoned for TBI at worst.
CV downdraft carbs were used by Ford for a while due to the inherent ability to load-adjust mixture FAR better than dumping raw gas in an accel pump shot...which kills catalysts and belches HC's like crazy.
I have a four barrel manifold on a Z, it's got a TBI body on it. LOADS better than ANY Holley Carburettor.
For side draft....give me ITB's any day of the week, the power available from a set of 45 ITBs leaves a Holley carb sucking wind (losing 40+ hp at 8,200 rpms...)
Personal Experience, verified by the record books of FIA & SCTA.
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"Tony can you take a picture of your 2+2"
I'm in Lucena, Quezon Province, Republic of the Philippines 13 56' 22" N 121 37' 47" E
My 2+2 is in the 951...formerly the 909...formerly the 714... 92572! 33 56' 32"N 117 13' 46" W
I think Google Earth can give you an accurate ruler distance between those two points!
If you can wait until middle to last week of January when I pass through, I'll snappy and post for reference.
What I recall from my swap:
74 260Z 2+2, 12/74 Production Date
Donor Booster was from 1979 S130 Coupe, and I used a 15/16" MC from Autozone on the buildup to replace the original MC on the donor booster.
The booster was turned upside down, and the bolts were cut off to remove the distance of the big die-cast spacer that is in place on the S130's.
It seemed to function well, and everything lined up straight.
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I ditto JC's all caps, bold comment from earlier.
An engine Dyno number is WORTHLESS unless you get the SAE SPEC the engine was tested against. Then, it will not apply to another run unless the same specifications are used on another ENGINE Dyno.
A chassis Dyno is the same way. The number you get, same as Dave's number is FOR COMPARISON ONLY ON THE SAME DYNO FOR CHANGES YOU HAVE MADE.
Dave didn't start out at 297, but that's where it ended up.
The value of the Dyno is not the terminal number, but relative change for the modifications or adjustments tested.
So he got 297 on the engne Dyno, and you got 217, those are then numbers. Each is useless comparing one to the other.
Where they have value is tracking relative change from jetting change, timing change, etc.
If you change to synthetic oil in your gearbox, and show 3% more RWHP, there is a relative improvement in a chassis component that gave you more available power to the wheels. An engine Dyno will never show you this. Putting wider wheels on gets you a higher number on a chassis Dyno, too...but it really will not relate to the engine reading at all. Never.
Like John said, end of sentence, period.
In the end you are making a contention that a LONG BLOCK ASSEMBLY run with different ducting and exhaust is attributable to "driveline losses" when the most obvious answer is the induction system. The differences in peak torque point RPM SCREAM that, loudly. I have seen a car spin 80RWHP, and the exact same engine and driveline spin 147.... Induction for 80HP was Weber DCOE's, Induction for 147 was Stock EFI. Some driveline losses there, eh? Not. Relative change. Thing is, each of those numbers was borne out with 1/4 mile passes that were very consistent and congruent with online 1/4 mile calculators.
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I was in Malaysia in November... Always press for an exact location. I've surprised more than one person showing up when they never expected anybody....
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From a standard fuel pump, there will be very little flow through the bodies. It's when you get off the gas that fuel surges through there and accomplishes the cooling.
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Mechanical Gauge in a "T" is the only reliable way to know what you have.
Crank until you get oil out the lobes, install the spark plugs, start up and run in as directed by engine builder.
We filled out engines using a stainless fire extinguisher, blast in five quarts, could see pressure on the gauge since it was going in at 125psi....and started the engine. Check valve prevented reverse flow to the fill vessel. Took it off after initial run-in and tied in Accu-Sump.
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Piston Stop Method for TDC or what?
Balancers can slip
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They will rebuild yours-you have to send it to them.
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It DOESN'T!
It cools the float bowl and carburetor body. Guys in SoCal have thanked me for turning them on the the anti-percolation benefits of these bodies.
Yep, it's gonna make your fuel less dense as the tank temperature will rise. Keep the tank up and you have a VERY effective heat sink for pulling off the freeway at 120F and then sitting in Vegas Strip Traffic fighting for 45 minutes trying to get to your hotel!
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Everything you can do will almost always reduce component lifetime.
Narrower gears, narrower bearings, lighter fluids, lighter components for reduction of transient response issues (moi)...
Keep in mind Group 4 Daysuns racing at LeMans and elsewhere in FIA races almost always had the homologated CV Jointed Axles. Far more durable, and less losses to boot!
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Nice...I can relate to the "project on hold for a while" thing right now...
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ You know, that is a darned good question!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Aaron was raised in a quasi Germanic family....
He looked at my L28 and (being a GM Offspring) exclaimed "Wow, EFI back in '75?"
I said "It's second generation, VW started in '68!"
Given Rochesters attempts with mechanical and electrical per dating Bosch... I'm surprised Mr Internet Search would be shocked at all! LOL
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So e of the R200's have brackets for the Pulser Wheels on the ABS System. Those will drive an electronic speedo quite nicely, there is one on the input flange on some Euro Model...maybe on US Spec Stuff as well. Nice rigid brackets and mag pickups ready made!
Just a thought.
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"Tighter than 5mm"?
0.040" is 1mm, and I'm personally surprised it works that far out!
If you watch the waveform produced by the sensor, the closer you get the crisper that "chop" gets. That distance is set from the top of the wheel. The "valleys" are out of the sensors reading range (er..."should"...at 5mm...1/4"....it may still read the valleys!)
These brackets should be RIGID so no movement. It's not uncommon that chopper wheels on my high speed equipment is set to 0.020" or even closer!
I would be somewhere between 0.030" cold, and once warmed up reset it to 0.020" and you should have a nice crisp waveform trigger pulse and can go from there if your bracket isn't a Flex-o-Matic Flexible Flyer Special!
FYI a nice roadside emergency fact is common paper is 0.003" thick, so is a soda can.
A Matchbook Cover is around 0.020".
Setting with a matchbook on a rigid bracket has worked teats for me!
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My nephew is quite a bit mor blunt about it... He's 20-something and built a 9 second late model (80's) Malibu.
He is more than annoyed at people who milk him for information and then argue with him about it.
His attitude is "I busted my ass every second reading everything I could on the internet to keep my costs down and do it once."
He, as a result, started deeeep in the 10's first time out, and was in high 9's within the racing season.
He now simply says to people "it's all on the internet, get a high speed connection, laptop, and start reading same as I did! It's ALL on the internet, if you want to learn, go there."
Hahaha...I love it!
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Indeed, advances in the last five years involving artificial discs seem to be as effective as fusion, but with less downsides.
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I might suggest center return and double feed from each end with a back pressure regulator dumping to cooling bodies that run through a fuel cooler on the way back to the tank.
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Can do the same thing with EFI and get decent mileage and all the noise to boot.
Says the man with videos of a 67 Lemans Cobra 427 Side Oiler with 48IDAs being warmed up in the pits at Spa...
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The "P" is Positive, and that means vacuum is a motive force to actively run the crankcase pressure at Zero Pressure or lower.
It doesn't need to be engine vacuum, putting the lower block vent to a Vac-U-Pan ejector in the exhaust will draw vacuum at higher engine speeds to suck out blowby.
Simply venting it is OK but you lose horsepower over running a negative pressure in the gearbox.
Even with a catch-can, you can apply vacuum after the separator to draw a vacuum, but a filtered fresh-air source is required to clean out combustion vapors in there.
A PCV can be as simple as a 0.069" orifice in the tube directly to the manifold, it doesn't HAVE to be a big air leak to be effective. It's how Mitsubishi did it for years. When you run a MAP based EMS that is part of your idle air bypass circuit! In fact, there is a Mitsubishi PCV Assembly that plugs right into the hole in the block once you pull out the tube for PCV...time spent at the Autozone PCV Selection rack reveals a lot of possibilities!
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Yep, Acetone strips lacquer based metal sealants. If it's internal, just about any solvent will do...
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Quaife makes a nice sequential box.
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Mmmmmm bike!
Power drain from Timing Chain / Valuable Build Tips herein...
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Tony D
You just linked it again TimZ, which refreshed my annoyance at basic assembly discipline...that's all pretty much written down.
When you pour Babbitt, and scrape bearings for an engine you realize a lot of stuff people take for granted today aren't always the way it was done.
Three years ago, I exited our China operations because my management team claimed I had an issue with our operations there...that I was "needlessly bashing them without all the evidence being in."
This year, I was asked to go back... "To audit installation and service practices"... and I asked if this was a validation of my claims three years ago and reminded them of my statement when I withdrew: "When we make this connection interface bulletproof, and these guys STILL WRECK THE MACHINES, what will our excuse be THEN? Will we THEN look at the decision to employ engineers for field support, rather than hands-on technicians who take pride in their work and aren't looking for a mandarin fingernail and the coveted office job? Will you THEN listen to me that these guys are killing our machines? It's not an ENGINEERING problem, it's an installation and service personnel problem!"
We had a crew of guys slapping stuff together, in horrendous industrial arts fashion. There is an art or craft to putting just about anything together. You can control that process in a factory, but in the field the ONLY hope is your assemblers/field techs being competent at their craft and knowing how to assemble these things correctly.
My managers reply "uh, yeah...it took us a while to catch on with what was really going on there!"
Yeah, two week blow-through junkets and living halfway around the world -- it's easy to pull the wool over your eyes. Spend four months a year there and you see stuff....horrible stuff... Stuff you tell your isolated, disbelieving management and they say "I can't believe so-and-so would do that!" Nice to be called a liar...why would I lie? I thought you wanted me to audit work practices?
I digress... I blame this on you Tim Z! You linked this thread again and dredged it all up!