Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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How on EARTH did you manage to take 4hours dropping the rear suspension???
15 drop wheels jack up and on stands
15 exhaust drop
10 pull e-brake
5 Disconnect Hydraulics
15 14 bolts
Drop with the jack, pull it out from the back....
Air tools can make this incrementally faster.
Access everything else clear on the ground.
And they're properly referred to as "Chapman Struts" in the back. MacPherson's are different and reside up front.
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It was 268/$ when I arrived in 84, it was 117/$ when I left five years later.
Though it gives a good example of what inflation does to your money there in the USofA.
The price of gasoline in Japan, despite US massively fluctuating in their pump pricing has gone from ¥100 to around ¥125 per liter... While the US equivalent went from 0.89¢ a gallon (¥63/liter) to $2.95 (¥89/liter)...
Same goes for most things... I was really shocked to see parts pricing remain relatively constant in Japan after my 20 year hiatus. Think about that for retirees...man, prices remain constant and "fixed incomes" aren't always requiring ratcheting to increase with inflation...
Oh, to get that 268 rate again!
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"So years ago when I signed up I asked about driving to work and got a general "You can drive it but you need to have a regular commuter with separate insurance" response."
That, defines the vehicle as "pleasure use" -- specifically disclaiming use as a commuter.
The downfall of collector insurance before Haggerty (Traverse City, Michigan...) got into the game was the mileage restriction meant for Horseless Carriages and things of that ilk. It was written on an outdated model of what a collector really was...
Haggerty realized that, even in Michigan during the summer months guys with 60's era muscle cars that were not trailering them to events could EASILY rack up 3,000 miles. They knew that the joy in a collector car is not being restricted to a trailer but to drive it.
And that when you are driving to a specific event-show, club meeting, etc, that you are in a completely different frame of mind, and driving in drastically different traffic conditions than normal commuting. This was the key to their offering the new "no mileage restrictions pleasure driving use" policies on collector vehicles.
If you look even into AAA policies, they make you designate COMMUTER USE and PLEASURE USE (which they define in the policy of driving 3 or more days a week to work)... If it's your only vehicle, it will be VERY difficult to get the car classified as 'Pleasure Use' by AAA or even Haggerty. One vehicle dictates that it's your commuter. Two vehicles and you suddenly have 'commuter' and 'pleasure' cars. AAA Uses reported mileage for the distinctions. You can have two identical cars (say....1974 260's with identical mileages a year '0ver 7,500 less than 10,000') and they will have a different rate for the year due to the implied usage.
That's really the root of all Collector Vehicle Insurance. When you look at it, for the benefits you get compared to conventional coverage... It's a no-brainer if you have more than one car and are not intending to drive it daily to work. If you are, then a conventional policy with stated value would be in order (given proper appraisal beforehand for proof of valuation, etc.)
JeffP was very upset with Haggerty when he found they wanted $647 a year to insure his car. Yeah, because he put a stated value on the car of $75,000! He said "I don't save anything over conventional insurance" which is incredibly short-sighted. They won't total the car with Haggerty--the policy on stated-value is repair (including using used parts if necessary) to as stated condition. That check can be cut for a LOT more than ANY conventional insurer would EVER consider for a fender-bender.
I know Haggerty paid for an ENGINE OVERHAUL when there was an engine fire! Something happened on a Boat Tail Buick, and a Car-B-Que started...Owner opened the hood before being shooed away (he knew that Axe was coming out after his hood!) and the Fire Department deluged the engine extinguishing the flames. The car got impounded and was towed. Eventually it got back to his house he got the body quotes and the adjuster came to check it out. Adjuster said "have you pulled the plugs?" He never would have thought to do that.... So while the adjuster was there he quickly pulled the plugs, and on 3 of them there was clear signs of rust on them...... Adjuster said "Well, I'm going toapprove your claim on the body, with a supplemental note that the engine ingested water--you need to get the engine torn down, don't just crank it over, there could be rust on your cylinders and you will screw up all your prior machine work! Get that engine torn down and see what you need. My experience after sitting this time you are looking at three liners and an engine overhaul to restore that engine plus the carb...I don't think you will get a crate engine but any shop should be able to do the work."
And ended up getting an engine overhaul for what he thought would be simply body work. Indeed the bores were pitted heavily from some chemical in what the FD sprayed on the car to put down the fire.
There is a BIG difference between the conventional policies and how they handle older cars, and Haggerty. Or some of the others. I was impressed by their service and the knowledge of the adjuster on things automotive. If you haven't had the necessity to use their claims people---consider yourself fortunate! It really is good luck. Then again, knowing that kind of expertise (your service may vary...LOL) is in their corps of adjusters is somewhat comforting. I'm sure there are people who are PO&B over their claims experience... But from what I've seen with them and their rates, AND flexibility for storage and odd insurance underwriting requests... I was sold on them. I really only have two cars with AAA now, and that may go to one (2002 Ford) simply because I don't even go 7,500 miles a year on them... It's nearly impossible to do so. Though I did drive from Phoenix to Pittsburgh in 39 hours straight through last January...that got some miles on the F150...and it's not exactly something Haggerty WANTS to start covering! LOL
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Since I got a notice on this price thread being viewed...I'll add that these "Cheap" American Parts.
Guess how much they sell for in Japan? Your pricing across the ocean is not "cheap" and I doubt you would even find it "reasonable"!
Same parts, different market, different parts pricing.
My Japanese friends would compare parts prices they saw in Magazines. They remembered pricing in the early 70's when they were last in the USA. To see an oil pan for a couple of hundred dollars when they remember getting them for $50 was outrageous.
Until I said "Tomoyose-San, that's under ¥20,000" he does a quick mental calculation (¥328x$50=¥16,400....¥89x$200=¥17,800 virtually the same price!). All he knew was dollars were a lot of yen... Considering that that same pan in Japan bought through official distribution was ¥80,000-100,000 ¥17,800 didn't seem all,that bad at all...even if there was a $200 shipping charge to run the price to ¥35,600!
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The Euro ZX came with .82 A/R
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Read Haggerty again, theirs is a "pleasure driving" policy. That typically by definition excludes commuter usage.
You can daily drive a Haggerty Insured car just not to work more than once maybe twice a week if pursuant to maintenance. I routinely drove my Z on every Thursday of the month. Each night there was a Z-Club meeting, and I would come in later to the office, stay later, then go directly to the Meeting, I specifically inquired about that and it was permissible. They added that the policy is NOT for commuting.
They don't put a mileage limit on it because they understand people who live in ice and snow simply can't drive as much as someone in Arizona or California where you can easily put 10,000 miles on the car driving for only pleasure, and another 26,000 commuting in a separate vehicle.
Going to ZCON two years running, I put 14,000 and 18,000 miles on the car ONLY to and from the event. Plus what I drove for club events and MSA (1000 miles that weekend alone!).... A stated mileage policy would not allow those mileages without a specific rider for the event added at additional cost.
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Carburettor jet, LPG orifice out if a grill, a brass plug with a small hole drilled in it, a needle valve.
Some guys put a small engine gas filter in the line downstream of a larger orifice before the MAP sensor. The filter media and bit of a "vacuum tank" smooths out what pulses are remaining after the orifice.
More cylinders means larger orifice can be used as pulsations are closer together. Adding the filter then smooths it out and you don't really lose any resolution. The spikes are not your trUe vacuum anyway...it's more like an "RMS Average" signal you want.
400hz power is more precise than 60hz power, which is more precise than 50hz power. Follow?
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Yes, since at least 1991...
Next question?
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The stock radiator with four cores supported me and 350+ HP forever.
Not much cheaper than 'stock'
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Bo, you might want yo reference the name of that shop...
I recall someone recently looking but not finding anybody willing to,do older cars.
I know I have two that could use a tug to be straight again!
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A restrictor in the line allows one to be used.
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The ZG opening is closely sized for sizing to cool the engine. Duct it properly and if you aren't oversized (blocking too much) then you will be fine.
Myna sharks Teeth raised freeway operating temperature 15F. Removed every other tooth, temp dropped back to where it was before "The Teeth"
Test, quantify, tweak.
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Very interesting. There is actually less power from 4500 to 6500 but where the power dived before just after 6.5K rpm, the new graph keeps pulling the numbers.
Probably advancing the cam timing a little and maybe a little richer would pick that difference back up The ignition timing was the same for both runs, so nothing to be gained or lost there. Compression is up a smidge with the MLS gasket (1mm vs 1.2)
And THAT is the true value of that Dyno graph!
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Mark--are you going back to the same Dyno each time?
If so (hope so) I found it helps to have the last run they had on file for my car printed out on the best run at the end of the day.
Helps me see what change affected what part of the graph, and by how much.
Nice torque curve!
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These are like The Sith, where there is a master, the apprentice is sure to follow...
False economy to do master and not the slave. Do them both, and change to the SS Line while you're in there.
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I saw them, but they seared my retinas out...so now I don't see much,,,
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You can reach it over the fender well.
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Google says....
http://www.kssmotorsports.com/index.php/sunbelt-engines
Send an email to Ed and find out.
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Far more RB25's out there then, in that case.
I can't wait to see the photos of your RB30/RB26.
I guess Canada is special.
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I want the Kubota...
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You didn't state that in your original post.
The RB 30 is easier than trying to make an RB26 even a 2.8... Much less 3.0. The Neo25 head is cheap, plentiful, and works just as well on an RB30 block though...so there goes the Mystic RB26 head optimised for forced induction.
There is just one problem for everyone in America, and Japan: Neither place has RB30's and BOTH places HAVE thousands of 3 Liter L-Series bottom ends running around CHEAP.
Hence, putting the head on the cheapest item you have available, and can get ready replacements for.
This is a semantic argument by sticking to the RB30 (again, not mentioned originally) which continues the problem of parts availability, fittment in chassis, etc...
The L28 fits the chassis available, is cheap, and parts are readily available to 3.2 or 3.3 L
Anything on an RB30 will be custom, custom, custom and cost cubic dollars.
It really is easily seen if you look at it and don't have an agenda.
And I know people who imported RB30's and did the head conversion in SoCal. For me it's not an internet exercise. Shipping via CFR Rinkens on non-priority contanerised shipment is five engines packed/stacked in crate $500 (basically put the engines in a motorcycle shipping crate.) If you demand point to point service and insist on immediate departure instead of sharing space with other people's load, the price can indeed easily double. I'm never in a hurry when it comes to shipping.
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Been getting that on my iPad as well.
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I was giving an example. As someone who owns pipe taps, and can have -3 braided stainless steel lines made up...this really doesn't present a big issue for me.
I only used the above as an example. It is not the kunigawa setup I bought from Diamond Bar. It was asinine, I had to pay delivery from a street address that I literally could WALK to from my business office!
If I recall, the price I paid was $32, and it all looped around the back of the engine nicely to to turbo with some nice high-temp adel clamps and fittings to go into the block, restrictor orifice fitting, banjo bolt, and some drain tubing stuff that I just tossed in the tool box. It was a direct bolt in for the stock L28ET I had in my red 260Z. It was not the 9$ kit shown above. That was just an example.
Getting that hose made is easy just about anywhere stateside. Actually, the more rural, the better in most cases!
A dollar buys a lot of Yen these days
in Non Tech Board
Posted
This is "relative" comparing the late 80's fall from 270 / $1 to the 117 / $1 range now seen.
It's only relatively good compared to the 79 / $1 of two years ago!
C'mon 250!!!