Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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As long as some people understand what you saw. Most don't, and aren't nearly as appreciative.
They would be dead in the water doing it without the internet.
The only caution is I would say you only think you know half of what you think you know.
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Standard overbores are010 (0,25 mm), 020 (0,5mm), or 040 (1,00mm). 030 is a US specific overbore size. That might be why.
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Just putting the impartial engineering costs out there for consideration.
I never said mine was 'a little'...
Oil "Consumption" is a big bugaboo.
Nobody has really showed a realistic economic rationale for the costs to "correct" it.
Some forged piston engines will never get better than 1 liter / 500 miles. Like Porsches and VW's. Or L24's with forged slugs.
In these cars, it's accepted as normal.
Just putting it out there for consideration.
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Lubriplate 630AA on the Gerotor or Vaseline helps the pump suck oil and prime.
The pump output is linear with speed, to a point. It could cavitate on the inlet side. in fact, it's not uncommon with thicker oil to physically blow apart the oil filter canister, it won't flow through the relief point, and pressure rises to the point where the filter explodes... happens on VW's all the time with oversized gears.
In fact, on our compressors, the oil pump is gear type. When they have a hung check valve, I have see them alternately lock the bullgear in place from hydraulic lock from the pumps foot-valve...blown foot valves from excessive pressure, etc. . . On a prior manufacturer, the oil pressure was normally 640psi, with restriction orifices to an inner bearing limiting that to 30psi. .. Start that one with the cold oil permissive bypassed it wasn't uncommon to blow the pressure transducer clean apart with pressures over 1000 psi! Always made me leery when guys plumbed those with 125 psi rated WOG BIP... Saw some of those fittings shrapnelize and stick in things as well. Nothing like standing in front of an electrical panel and hearing a muffled "BOOM" feel something like it hits the panel, and then see oil leaking out of all the unsealed panel openings, including around the electroflurorescent display!
Generally though, yes, without a relief valve the pressure would be speed dependent. Common practice is to oversize the pump to allow for relatively constant oil pressure at all engine speeds and accommodate bearing wear through the engine's lifetime.
Blueprinting the passages will help with flow and pressure. Going external pickup and feed is nice. If you can find the parts anymore!
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Getting old and forgetting is a bitch, ain't it?
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Never part due to rust... Get rust free and use your parts AGAIN!
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The only guys who say "I was the first to do it" either are isolated or don't look around.
I've hung around a few guys, Ron Iskendarian, Vic Edlebrock Jr., ... Heady names. Almost to a man they usually say "that was the first time that I know of it was done."
Anybody remember Bubblegiunea at ZCC? First kid to ever make a "dished piston high performance L-Series" to turn 15+ second 1/4 mile times...
Being proud of your achievements is one thing, being a self aggrandizing arsehole is another. Big Fish - Small Bowl Syndrome!
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Yep, that car "new to Japan" gets Shaken-Sho inspected for three years initially, and then every second year until it's ten years old ... Then it's inspected annually.
Costs double for inspection. It's why most enthusiasts don't register the vehicles, or when they turn 10 take them off the road and run temporary plates for events. See those "red slash" plates, they're complete with liability insurance to transport the car and are paid for in advance on a per-day basis.
Oh how I wish I could do that in the USA!
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I got three to run through there! What was the bill?
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Firstly...
"My company fired me for failure to show up for work."
You need to rephrase that properly. Your company fired you "due to inability to report to work due to an injury sustained while on the job."
That is a BIG distinction. This is an OSHA Recordable. Call OSHA and your state OSHA and turn their asses in, as likely they didn't log the proper forms...
Then pursue the lawsuit, as arguably this is job-related, and disability inducing.
Sadly your experience mirrors my buddy in Maryland. He had something going on that the back doctors told him was inoperable, everybody was at a loss for his symptoms. He was resided to laying on his back, wishing for death (which I'm sure you COMPLETELY understand...or would if you were in your state for more than a year instead of three months!) I had urged him to get a second opinion... I said by someone who wasn't thinking he was god, and who had some grey hair. Eventually he relented and went to get a checkup by a GP who diagnosed a degraded hip joint...not one, but two! Nerves were grinding on bone. He called me up cheerily "Dude I don't need back surgery, I need a new hip!" He had to wait 6 months to get the operation, he said 'just knowing it would end' made him feel better. The day after he had his hip replaced, without painkillers he got up and walked to the bathroom. The nurses freaked, and Larry said "Believe it or not, I feel great! It hurts LESS now without painkillers than it did laying flat on my back 24 hours ago!"
Made a great recovery. You will too.
Did they fuse the vertebra, or put in artificial discs? My bud has since had his other hip replaced and now gets around like he hasn't been able to do in 10 years!
Look into that retraining. This should all be covered under that disability insurance you paid for...
And the employer? Oh, firing you under those circumstances...I know why that lawyer took the case free up front...they did a colossally stupid thing there! Colossally STOOPID!
Best Wishes on the Recovery!
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At the new house, sometime between 71 and 74 I discovered I could get the house phones to ring by stuffing the wires from the baseboard modular plug into the wall socket. Oh when my brother and I were restricted to our room I would pull the wires out...wait till mom was just dozing off and then make the phone ring.
Stopping when she got there "Hello? Hello? HELLO?" (Snickering children in their rooms)
Wait till she was settled....ring...ring...ring...
"Hello? Who is this? (Dial Tone)
(More Snickers)
Then the coup de resistance...my brother could just see her on the phone, he would relay when that was, and RIIIIIIIINNNNG! Just ring the hell out of it for like 3 seconds straight while it was unhooked and she was on the headset. Bro would say her face would get all screwed up, she'd storm towards our room, and we both would assume our "positions of innocence"!
"Allan, I think the kids are doing something with the phone. It rings, all the time. Nobody is there. And it rings while I'm ON the phone!"
Mowhahahahahaha!
"I just know how to install it, I don't know how it works dad!"
Foreshadowing the answers everybody would get from installation techs 45 years later. Except I was lying, and only 8 years old. Today they're grown "adult professional installers" and actually MEAN it!
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I also find it remarkable how cheap every new product feels.
"Telephones"
I got a Bell System 40 or 50's era wall phone in my shed. Bakelite handset, cloth braided cord. Got a 60's era Bell System equivalent in the other shed, plastic and coiled cord on the handset, replaceable.
Both are heavy. Substantial. Open them up and there's all that mechanical tip and ringer mechanisms. Dikdikdikdikdik pulse tone dial out mechanism.
I picked up a recent Bell System phone. Still heavy but the "balance" was off... Something wasn't right. It LOOKED. The same. I got it home and took it apart.
Inside was a circuit board, and several steel weights bolted to the chassis, same thing inside the headset: bolted ballast plates to make it "feel" like the old ones!
On the old one, it has a microphone dated "11/57" and a earpiece dated "6/49"--the newer one had both dated "6/68" and was new in our house in Lansing Michigan when we move in in the fall of 1968. I was a kid when I watched the Bell System Guy come and hang it on the kitchen wall. At 6 years old, when we left the house, I asked why we weren't packing the phone. "It belonged to the phone company" was what I got.
I said "But we pay for it, it's a good phone, why can't we keep it? Won't they just give us another one where we're going? Why don't we take it?"
What I got next should have been a warning to my parents of things to come... My dad said "I don't know how to get it off the wall." I replied "Oh it's easy! I watched him put it in, you just lift (like this) and it comes right off, then you get the wire off the back." My dad was somewhat amused, and said "Oh, so why don't you take it off then?" And up the steps tool I went, detached it from the wall, and handed it to my dad with a "take the wire off now, dad!"
And so that phone got hooked into the existing wall bracket in the next house we had (and much to dad's delight it was instantly working--prior occupant had not disconnected service yet!) when Bell came for the "install" the tech said "You have you OWN phone? Oh, then we need to make a note not to charge your account the monthly equipment rental charge!"
Mom was clueless, dad, on the other hand was ecstatic when he got that first bill saying "something is wrong here!" Mom said "they said something about lower costs because we owned our own phone, I really didn't know what he was talking about."
Dad looked at me, realized what happened...started smiling, and said "Nancy, have you started dinner yet? We're going to The Tradewinds for Dinner!"
"Phone Cops" came in 82 because of inordinate high line draw at the house. By that time I'd learned to wire extensions and had them downstairs, upstairs, and out in the garage....along with Cable TV. All in the days when you paid per connection! I got everything pulled and hidden before Mom was finished delaying them at the back door.
Tony D, screwing the man since 1970!
I digress....
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How often do you add oil.
My L28 burns oil at a rate of a liter every 500 miles when AutoX and maybe less than half that amount in 3,000 miles driving highway cross-country.
Yeah, you can smell it behind the car.
You might even get oil dots if you follow on too closely.
In 100,000 miles, at $3 a liter and the worst possible consumption scenario I will need to buy 200 Litres of oil costing $600...
Or I can spend $3,500 and properly overhaul the engine to save between $30~60 a year in additional oil costs.
Yep, math is a bitch!
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Spring pressure presses the piston against the top of it's bore.
As oil flowbuilds, the pressure is created by friction in oil galleries and orifices (bearing clearances) that restrict that flow. As a result pressure rises.
As pressure rises, it presses on the relief piston face...once this hydraulic pressure total (area of the piston, multiplied by the hydraulic pressure) eventually overcomes the spring pressure.
Spring pressure is rated in "pounds per inch" or other weight-vs-deflection standard.
So as your pressure increases, the spring allows the piston to deflect, at some point the piston will uncover a relief port and bleed off pressure.
This will counteract spring compression when hydraulic pressure drops, and the spring presses back up and closes the port allowing pressure to rise... This balancing act goes on at that preset pressure.
You can see by shimming the spring it will increase spring preload and fluid pressure as a result.
Curiously so will cutting the spring as it can increase spring rate... The shim then merely becomes a placeholder for the installed height you cut out of the spring.
Clear as mud now?
Sometimes the 'needle' on the bore end restricts the inlet to the relief piston chamber, or the relief port making for a smoother response at one end or the other of the regulation spectrum.
Then...you can add relief port friction or size which can affect the relief capability of the port which could otherwise just blow to the oil pan unrestricted. I have seen arrangements where synthetic oil ran dangerously high pressure cold, and dangerously low when hot due to relief port and passage design. The reaction of viscosity can make a big difference in how the relief port dies it's job. Thick oil may jam the piston to the bottom of it's bore, completely allowing full bypass... And kind of removing it as it's intended use in the system...
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Define "Huge Air Compressor"!
Seriously, if you want "big" define it, because you may make a big mistake getting a physically huge reciprocating compressor when recently better technology has become available that will really impress you in capacity.
If you want to do layout, chassis, or alignment a section of the floor dedicated to self-leveling epoxy surface plate...
Gas heat is nice...but a radiant floor heating system....mmmmmmm!
A shower stall in the corner using one of those tankless heaters makes the wife happy.
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I missed a 930 somewhere?
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Inquiring minds want to know about the bike in the photo...
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VW's with engines that redlined at 5,000 had roller bearing input shaft supports.
It's Germany. "Zis ist der vay vee do it!"
If you get into specific bearing loads for rollers and journal bearings and their constituent componentry, it explains different lengths.
But as JC said the bushing works just fine. And if a bushing fails, it's far easier to clean up,than if a roller pilot bearing seized and welds your crank to your tranny input shaft...
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Oh brother I'm hearing you loud and clear!
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Electronic Valve Controller (DEVAS System) has been discussed previously.
Setting that system up is as expensive as buying Cams at the first quoted price, for the controller alone...then you need the hydraulics and solenoids...
For the lazy, I post the link again:
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This is end user licensing. The agreement is usually to the original purchaser not to reverse engineer or decompile codes.
What will eventually happen is whole computers will be available. Your proprietary one will get pulled out and set aside, and the aftermarket plug-n-play alternative will come into use. If big-brother approved. OEM's will battle with the Aftermarket, or keep their source codes open.
I can already see a market amongst privacy advocates to hack the OBD "remote monitoring and data logging" features present for years. Flick a switch and dump the memory. That's an immediate need I can see some people would want.
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My parents had a dryer they bought when they got married (1963)... The thing threw a drum belt in 1982, which I repaired in about fifteen minutes after going to Sears.
They bought new appliances within a month (washer and dryer) because "the old ones were starting to act-up"...
I repaired a wire on the thermostat of the electric stove that had corroded through a year later. Same thing: new range within a month "because the old one is acting up"!
I bought MY appliances from people like my parents. I paid $75 each for an otherwise new, one year old Kenmore high capacity washer and dryer with complete service manuals from a guy selling them due to his wife deciding the appliances didn't match the new house properly (gotta love Lotus Land!)
Hell, I bought another washer for $50 and use it on the back porch to wash work clothes and shop rags. It discharges to an illegal, grey water sparger that supplies phosphorous rich detergent water into the rose bed in front of my house.
Now...that old electric range mom sold....man would that make a nice powder-coating oven! It would keep the one in the kitchen from getting so stinky! (Replaced Ignitor two years ago...vintage 1975!)
The only thing I used new when it came to appliances was my furnace. Upgraded to newest technology from 1975 unit in the house. New furnace allows me to,use modern thermostats that allow setting temperature below 54F, and will keep the house 10F warmer for HALF the gas cost as the previous unit. The new programmable thermostat, two years old will go bye bye when I go home next because it doesn't have an I.P. Address capability...meaning I can monitor my home heating system from my smartphone....or more importantly, keep it on "Away" mode more than 30 days at a time... And can reset to normal settings in anticipation of my return.
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I would say cosmetic restoration externally only.
The inside of that tank looks like freshly acid washed! You won't find much better.
Clean the outside with simple green, lots of water and a soft soft-bristled brush.
Once it dries, see if it's shiny enough for your tastes...if not shoot it with some new glossy paint and be happy!
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On our club caravan to ABQ ZCON in 95 (?) all the cars filled up in the same filling station in Arizona.
Almost EVERY car started having problems afterwards. Some literally dying at the roadside. We were pulling fuel filters at the roadside against protestations of owners "it's BRAND NEW, we changed it two days before leaving on this trip!" One 280Z had a stock, obviously new Nissan OEM EFI filter, the owner showed me the Nissan Dealer's Service Invoice from the Thursday of that week prior (it was Sunday afternoon...)
Took that filter off (man, it felt heavy!), tried blowing through it. No go. Reversed it, and blew through it to get clumps of brownish red claylike silt. We hooked it up in reverse, and jumped the pump on to flow onto I40's shoulder it till the fuel looked relatively clear and then installed it the right way around. Car started right up and made the climb to the top of the hill into ABQ just fine afterwards.
I had put a huge oversized filter on my 260Z, and by that week's end it was starting to show signs of fuel starvation, so at a filling station leaving ABQ, I pulled it and put a stock filter out back. Cut the big one open: red desert silt, same as in the 280''s.
Upon talking, we all had filled from the same "premium" pump. That tank was obviously low, or contaminated.
All it takes is ONE fill up. If the truck just filled and stirred up the sediments in the tank...if the tank has old inventory and you suck off the bottom with a high concentration of contaminants or solids... Beware when pumping if the fuel seems to take forever to flow: the pump filters likely are clogged, there IS junk in the gasoline coming from the refinery...but a majority of contaminants comes from the in-ground tanks.
One fill up is all it takes. I wouldn't call it a Red Herring by a longshot!
HybridZ car at Rocky auto
in Non Tech Board
Posted · Edited by Tony D
I got to agree with dsommer: If you want credit for your car, DON'T SELL IT.
Second, you haven't a CLUE about the market that it's selling into... The clientele at Rocky Auto is well off... they aren't going to skimp about the cost unlike most American Buyers.
They recognise this guy (Watanabe) has not only fronted the cost of the car itself (what did it sell for originally???) spent a few grand on plane tickets to find the car, another few grand to ship the car, another few grand to make it inspection-legal...PLUS LABOR TIME for all the above probably totaling 1,000 Hours minimum by the time it's done. At $120 an hour, a reasonable rate for the US in a similar Specialty Car boutique...you got a killer labor bill that's more than that asking price! Even at Pep-Boys cover-your-overhead in a strip mall garage $60 an hour, that only comes to covering your costs at $90,000!
There's a reason nice builds sell overseas and not in the US of A.
But there is a point where even the nicest Stateside build just simply falls short of the quality expected outside the USA and it has to be corrected before it will sell there.
In some cases, what was done is outright illegal and can not be put on the road. Australia is particularly bad about Engineering Standards on Modified Vehicles...
All that adds costs. It's not something most people can do in their home garages there, and even if they can...they STILL have to go to a certified engineering garage to get signed off on the work they did!