Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Go take a look at the F-Series Trucks from a while back...they have a very nice perforated grille to let air in instead of punched slats. Very sanitary and smooth looking. With a drill press, some backup wood, a nice grid pattern to lay it out...I don't see any reason why someone couldn't get creative and even 'punch' in designs using holes of different diameter for shading/etc on a solid piece and get plenty of air into the cabin for ventilation. Who says they have to be in a straight line, either...sketch some arcs that conform to the windshield or cowl...
Or hell, even drill a "Rising Sun" pattern of fine holes radiating outward on the cowling...
The pressure is all over the front of the lower windshield area...even making long thin slots with a 'rotozip' tool would accomplish venting adequate to let air in there and be relatively inconspicious.
C'mon guys, I didn't even think about these ideas, they just popped into my head. Why be stuck on the way they were done 40 years ago? You're starting with a blank plate...you're free to do whatever you wish!
For that matter, all you guys with louvres on the inspection covers should be clamoring for one with closed center area and matching louvres outboard...
Those ideas just keep rolling in as you think about it. Cogitation...try it some time! LOL
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It should never touch the gasket.
The deck of the engine possibly, but never the gasket.
On an L20A...yeah. But in that case, you simply use an L24 Head Gasket of proper vintage (as me how I know that tidbit!)
My compatriot is in Sydney currently, then on to Adelaide, and Olympic Dam... And I'm here in Nigeria shuffling flights for a follow on to someplace in the jungle 4 hours south of Jakarta...
How did I get it this chicken outfit anyway? Oh yeah, they paid me...
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Has anyone here converted from triple Webers to the extrudabody ITPs and measured the performace before and after?
Not on the extrudabodies, but on TWM 45mm ITB's...which functionally should be equivalent.
It expanded our power peak around 800 rpm upwards. There was a 17 HP difference at the old power peak in the ITB's advantage, and 40HP at the new power peak.
Same engine, same cam, simply replacing a distributor and Weber 45 DCOE's with TWM 45mm ITB's and a TEC2 EFI system.
Basically this is the same power level we expected had we gone with the 55 Webers the engine builder said 'were the next step'...
Ever price a set of 55 Webers? The ITB's were cheaper!
But that was not the half of the improvement. With carbs the engine idled at 1700 rpms, and roughly at that. And cold starting was not a simple matter...especially at 39F on November Mornings.
With the EFI, we could take the exact same engine, and with a twist of the key start it at 39F, have it go to fast idle at 1800, and slowly work it's way down to an 1100 rpm idle. We actually screwed around with the IAC circuit and idle bypasses and were amazed with the ITB's in place (and owing to E-Motive's PAFFZ-Blend Software) we could actually idle the engine down as low as 450rpms!!!! Simply amazing and like night and day.
The power to be had is only part of the picture. Sure, we picked up 40HP at our new rpm. That's on a stout motor. What we got was OEM Twist-Key reliability to start and drive a monster engine without pops, coughs, and any cold running issues...as well a no more transitional bogs due to low manifold vacuum, etc etc etc...
If you are daily driving the car and have properly jetted and sorted carbs, that is where the difference will be...that and fuel mileage. If it's WOT, I'd liken it to what we did going from 45DCOEs to 45ITB's---equivalent to the next largest competitive carburettor. Frankly, we could have made half that ammount going SMALLER in ITB diameter and running 40's instead of 45's and STILL had all the advantages. For a street car, if you have 45 DCOE's you could easily go down a size and STILL gain power, but have better velocity and MAP signal, as well as drivability from the decreased tip-in response.
It all depends on what you want. Power is really not that big an issue, the drivability, especially cold, is!
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Clearance of the valves is literally a 'hit or miss' operation---some hit, some miss.
As JM said, a positive dowelling gets the head properly registered...and in most cases the valves are free of the block at that point.
Then 'unshrouding' becomes the main focus of the exercise. Leave enough near the fire ring for adequate sealing and most definately don't undercut it or as stated the head gasket will burn through in short order.
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I started a thread titled L series - Positive Crank Case Pressure, too much
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121590&highlight=Positive+Crank+Case+Pressure read me!!
Damn, I sound likea broken record after reading my posts in that thread!
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It is a great fit. Drop it, and rejigger it in there. You got in in wrong.
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Tony, are the new 720cc/min injectors that Jeff is using a low impedance peak/hold pintle style?
Not sure on impedance, but suspect they are low-z and they are definately pintle style. I think he refers to them a 'pintacle style'...some testicular reference or something...
They are most definately not the disc style three-holers someone said would work the best for him... He may have photos on his site.
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Oh yeah, that FP buffer is not much heavier than my 1/2" air ratchet.
For it's $19.95 cost back in the 80's...I am very happy with it! As long as you have enough air, that is!
If you painted the car, that should not be an issue.
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I have an old "Florida Pneumatic" buffer I got in the early 80's. Thing goes no faster than 1800 rpms, and has kept my hamfisted attempts at polishing successful. I tried a higher speed electric buffer. The results were not pretty. I stick to my FP, and pray I don't do something stupid.
I hate the final buffing task. With all the hours you put into doing it right up to that point (and I got that all pretty much down) the one thing I haven't even come close to mastering is power buffing of the final finish.
I get some of it done, and then usually take it to a professional detailer to finish for me. He says 'Oh man, you did great up to this point, why did you stop? You should have just kept on doing what you were doing!'
In my mind I hear: "Man, you stopped just in time, a couple minutes more and starting on those edges and I would have had a job I could have charged you hundreds to try and fix. As it is, all I can do is a 45 minute buff and brush and you're out the door cheap, mister!"
Spend a couple hundred hours over the course of a couple of months on a car and then burn the paint (mentioned above) on a FLAT surface...and it just ruins my whole day!
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For a Rattle-Can, you can spray primer to cover the bondo and give proper adhesion (that is what primer is supposed to do) but then spray over that with lacquer TOPCOAT. Basically any paint meant as a final finish at the viewed surface of the car. That will seal the primer, and it's what primer is meant to be covered with in the first place. You could even do clearcoat. I specify Lacquer because it's pretty much universal, anything can go over it. EPOXY is similar in that it's cured and seals so you don't need to top coat it. But if you are using rattle can primer, likely it's lacquer, and then you have to use lacquer topcoat as it will simply act like another coat of paint later on if you don't sand it all off. Really, the more colors and layers of colors you have, the better you can gauge your depth of cut when sanding later on. Each layer is usually not more than a couple of thousandths thick, and having multiple bands of color exposed in tight rings means VERY likely you will see a divot in the finsihed paint. They need to be wiiiide bands of paint so a ripple or 'work dip' will not be visible in the topcoat. "Feather Edged" is the technical term I suppose.
Another thing, final wetsanding should not uncover ANY bondo spots. If you did, your prep and blocking dry was inadequate.
Personally I will dry block till I see nothing but even removal of a preliminary guide coat all over the body, taking most of the original primer off...then on respray alternate different colors of primer to give 'depth guides' as to how close I'm getting to the orignal worked area. If you know you put three light coats alternating between red oxide/grey/black and then a thick coating of primer surfacer you can get a real good indication when you have come really close to the working surface and may need to chill out on sanding in one spot.
It always amused me when I saw guys wetsanding over bondo. Kinda not the best practices guide to bodywork in play there!
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I did consider the GT40 for a specific application due to altitude concerns, but that is in the future.
So now, I'm thinking GT42... at least. Given that torque peak and spreads on the tranny....I think it will work fine Jeff!
"My my my, what are those boys cooking up in the shed out back?" she said, quizzically, wiping her hands on the chicken-embroidered dishcloth as the smoke and racous noise rose ever higher...scaring the livestock and making the chickens in their coop all atwitter.
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That may have been what it was. The Radome on the F15's I was familiar to seeing was a much lighter color, almost transparent, but it darned looked like plywood!
I'd say it was a good 2 feet in diameter, right near the bulkhead at the front of the aircraft. The pilots likely needed to change pants aftger the flight. The door was closed when I got out, they had not shown themselves at that point!
I hate to say it but it was a 'non starter' for me. I wish I'd taken photos now. But it was by no means 'my worst flight'...
Oooooh no, not by a loooooong shot!
Commercial Aviation is the lap of luxury when you're strapped into the web seat of a C130 going into a Typhoon over the Pacific west of Guam...
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Studebaker Inline Six at Indy... it was here...
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None of todays cars have the rain drip rails.
There must be a reason for that..Cars do look much better without them. I removed mine for appearance reasons only.
While going fast and straight is great...I love going sideways better.
Well don't confuse a car designed from the start with the elmination of pinchwelds on the roofline as a design factor, and someone shaving rails for cosmetics or (thought) improved aerodynamics.
If you are only going 100 mph, you can pretty much do what you want. If you go over that regularly, 'going sideways' usually results in lifting off...
We had the back end go light and started wheelspinning, believe it or not it is possible to run over your own parachute cords...
Stability is a good thing. If your class at Bonneville has a record over 200mph (and over 170 at El Mirage) you are required to have roof strakes installed...
There must be a reason for that, as well...
Applying them to a car that will never see the speeds is foolish, and little more than cosmetic homage....
On removing drip rails on a street driven car:
As long as you have functional A/C, and/or it never rains where you are, that's all well and good. But shave those babies and get into a rainstorm and the reason they are there becomes pretty obvious. Roll that window down about 6" for ventilation when you're sitting stopped in traffic and there's steady rain or drizzle.
I hate the fact that my 'dripless' Navara (Frontier) can't have the windows open in the rain because the rain drips in all over the inner door panel. Same on my Ford F250, and Dodge 1500....douses the electric control switches because the rain drops right down through the open window.
Yep, they don't have em for aerodynamics reasons to be sure. But they all universally have A/C that functions superbly as well...because they're also designed to be driven with the windows UP in a rainstorm...
For someone operating in the performance envelope below 100mph, not having the A/C will result in far more of an advantage performance wise than elimination of drip rails, or most of the drag-reducing tricks found here.
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The only think to note if you are using a stock Nissan Fuel Pump is the internal relief will start lifting and seriously decrease flow with 60psi at the pump. That would likely result in 55 or less psi available at the engine, possibly less depending on flow usage.
I could see 45psi (3 Bar) on a stock Nissan Pump, but 60 is just going to cause problems.
Especially given the fact that 440CC/Min Supra Injectors will run fine in N/A applications on the SDS's resolution at idle.
Idle is not really that much an issue, really. Like someone posted, even in an N/A application at peak torque (say around 4500 for grabbing a number out of my butt) 25# injectors are at nearly 100% duty cycle to supply adequate fuel. You have a cam, and it is going to want fuel at the torque plateau.
As an example of what I have a 160CC/min injector in: 1641CC Vw Bug Engine with Engle 110Cam, making around 58HP to the Rear Wheels. It works nicely in that engine.
I'd say the 16# for a cammed engine is far undersized, the minimum I would go (and what I put in most anything I do with a Megasquirt) is the Turbo 25# (270cc/Min) injectors. For a bone stock L28 a 16# might work, but playing around with fuel pressure just adds to issues down the road.
I wouldn't hesitate to run the 42# units. For the Turbo install 550's would work, but I'd see where the idle quality goes and what pulsewidth you are running to judge if the 550's would be applicable straight out the box. They might, but you have to see where you are with the 42' first.
It's more than size, as well. What type of spray or pintile configuration you hvae can affect your idle as much as the size of the injector.
JeffP had a terrible time with one configuration of 650cc/min injectors getting a decent idle. Swapped over to another configuration (I think he went away from the ring/disc style) at 720CC/min and it idled MUCH better as the injector was controlling the fuel much more efficiently.
So in that case, a larger injector worked better than a differently configured smaller injector.
But to me, even for a stock motor, 14 or 16# is marginal, there is no room for growth there. I think under the torque peak, you will run out of fuel.
I'm not a big fan of jacking the fuel pressure when you can properly size the injectors in the first place.
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My Bro is living someplace in Novi now...I think. Maight be over by Aburn Tech Center. Not quite sure, was running late last time and didn't get a chance to stop by and reconniter...
Then again, my Cottage in Tawas isn't going anywhere.
You got it, US23 rocketing up and back!
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/Stroking Beard/
"Hmmmmmm, 45 minutes you say..."
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The whole focus of our effort was to break Nissans Record. We did so, and have been working on engine power ever since.
Our eventual goal is to, after seeing that we have gotten as much speed out of the S30, to go with the S130 and then 'bump' the records using yet the next generation of Z Car.
The numbers are startling, a F/GT in ZX form should easily be capable of the same speeds we have gone in F/GALT (173.325) simply due to the bone stock aero and lift figures being that much better. If someone has a coupe, go for it.
That was kind of the reason for fighting so hard the last year over wether the G-Nose was a 'production option'...I had laid the groundwork years ago to try and keep the GS130 (2+2) classified as a 'Production Vehicle' like the GS30 currently is, so that this progression could occur.
The Z31 is out. Period. It's already in the rules, they are classified as 'Jump Seats' and will run against a Porsche 911-Style Vehicle (GT or BGT Class).
If they nix our bid out the gate as a Production Car in the GS130 Chassis...we will run a 2+2 simply because I have three of the damned things in my back yard that I've harvested over the years towards this eventual goal (Two Slicktops, and one Turbo...along with a spare slicktop roof for the Turbo).
As much as I have a curiosity, I would rather the time be spent on knowledge gained on the front end of the car, that is where the gains will be made, and will be applicable to both models regardless.
Frankly, anything more than rolling a bone-stock 2+2 in for a basic test to compare one to the other doesn't seem justified. And for the time it would take in the day to accomplish that...it's just not worth it IMO.
Anybody wants to know about lift, we got wheelspin over 140mph at ElMirage after removing the small spoiler. We solved it by filling the spare tire well of the car with solid concrete and welding in a couple of pieces of rebar to make sure it didn't come out and start bouncing around. If you can figure out how much the concrete weighed, that was enough to counter our lift at 140+...
How many guys in 2+2's are going 140+?
Even more to the point, of the guys requesting information on 2+2's, how many are going 140+ to actually use any prospective information gained on rear lift should the data become available? And if (big IF)the numbers are large enough of a difference, who's going to make 2+2 specific modifications to maximize on this? It's diminishing returns in my book.
Hey, if I won the lotto for $110 Million Lump Sum after taxes, we would set up a testing WEEK and have guys in to set up their personal cars as my 'thanks' to the site.
Till that happens, wise utilisation of resources should dictate the testing regimen.
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And the other Engineer from Los Angeles is midway through his flight to Australia as we speak...
As I stew in my own Juices here in Nigeria...with a follow-on to Jakarta...if the French ever release me from this hell...
Missed another one, BUGGER!
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If you have an 8AM class, why are you posting here at...what...0130?
Unless you are in Paris or Frankfurt, where it's 0830 now... (it's 0930 here now...)
"I digress"
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Many people get the horribly mistaken idea that the reason we run a 2+2 at Bonneville is because of some sort of 'aerodynamic advantage' produced by the longer roof and different hatch slope.
Listen closely to the following statement carefully, all those who believe that, your world is about to be shattered:
WE RUN IT BECAUSE WE HAVE TO FOR THE CLASSIFICATION (/PRO) IN THE RULEBOOK, NOTHING MORE
That's the extent of the "2+2 Choice", we need to run a car with FOUR seating positions, and that is a 2+2. The Coupe runs in GT class, and goes just as fast as we do, but unfortunately since it's a coupe, it ultimately can only run in GT and MS classes. Whereas being a "Production Sedan or Coupe" allows us to run in up to 13 different configurations.
It was purely a matter of 'most bang for the buck'...for $20K into the car (er....thereabouts, give or take...er, yeah...) we get the possibility of competing in 13 classes, as opposed to two.
Two classes, I might add that car contested by guys like Bob Norwood in Ferraris, and crap like that. We went after a record set by a Z, and broke it with a Z. And then went to other classes.
But there was absolutely no 'aerodynamic advantage' we sought by using a 2+2 over a Coupe.
Does one exist? Doubtful. The speeds achieved by either car are identical according to SCTA BNI records. Personally, as curious as I might be about a 2+2's aerodynamics, and much as it would mutually benefit me to get data in that direction, I personally think it would be a terrible waste of resources to put a 2+2 in there and start fiddling on it at all.
If you want a better aero package in the Z, or in a 2+2 Z, get an S130 which comes out of the box better and slipperier, and with less lift and drag than the S30 in it's best configuation!
Just my .02 on the whole 2+2 thing.
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Take a look at where the tailpipe on a stock S30 ends---it's usually MUCH further back, in many cases it is almost flush with the bumper's total length.
Most 'performance' exhausts clip that and tuck the tailpipe section well short of that.
Tying in with your 'exhaust velocity' theory, you can see that having a 'dorky looking tail pipe that sticks out so far' is actually a good bit of engineering on Nissan's part.
Just stick a can or piece of muffler extension tubing on the tailpipe with a clamp and see what happens when the pipe is out as far a stock one...
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Ah, come on fellers. Everyone has to start somewhere. Nice thing about startin at the bottom, is that there's only one way to go.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHHA!
Post your "MacGyver" stories...(doesn't have to be car related)
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I was running down M55 between Tawas and West Branch one summer day, and saw the only other Microbus for at least 25 miles broken down on the side of the road.
I stop, we exchange pleasantries as we have seen each other on the roads from time to time...
Turns out he has dropped #3 Exhaust Valve and is dead in the water.
1500CC Single Port? Sure! Well, I just happen to have what you need...
In my 'Milk Crate of Parts' I have spares. So with that Milk Crate upside down, and with 2 2X4's on the top for additional height we pull his engine on the roads shoulder. Pull his Left Head, and agree, he's done on #3.
Swap on a junkyard head, junkyard jug with similar balancing numbers, reinstall it with old gaskets and some RTV, and in less than 2 hours he's on his way...
But not before the MSP rolls up on us as we're bolting on his rear bumper. Gives us a stern lecture and wants to know what the deal is...we tell him and he doesn't believe us! Show him the parts...still disbelief that we changed a head and piston on the roadside with a $39 Sears basic starter tool set and parts I just "Happened" to have in the van at the time.
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#2, rolling away from the San Antonio Z-Con towards the Houston Space Center, we come over a rise on I10 and I literally run into stopped traffic. A 1999 Toyota Pickup to be exact. Fan is into the Radiator on the Z. Car is running but not leaking. AFter talking with the guy for a while I realize now I'm puking green. Overheating. BAH! No real damage on his car, and I give him $300 to go buy a better tubular step bumper from JC Whitney--he's happy and I'm screwed.
Do the "Start, run up to speed, COAST" drill to keep it from overheating in traffic as I dive off the next exit. I find the local post office...about the only place with Free Parking I see. Under the trees of the post office, utilizing my trusty leatherman, I remove the grille, the lower radiator shroud, and get the fan turning (it was bound on the shroud). But something is buzzin... Oh, the fan IS hitting the radiator. What is a man to do? Why, flip out the knife blade and then surgically remove the same bit of tip from the fan blades for clearance. Then drive the car from Houston to Mobile, across Georgia, up the Blue Ridge Parkway, through Michigan up to Copper Harbor, down through Wisconsin, and back to California. The last leg being done in a marathon of driving as my wife was working night shift, so I drove all day and she drove all night. I slept some place near Amarillo, and awoke someplace near Flagstaff. Continuous driving, 24 hours daily, stopping for maybe 20 minutes every couple of hours to refill (and er...drain) fluids in the vehicle.
Did I mention I was towing an 800# trailer, and my wife and son were in the Fairlady Z 2+2?
In West Virgina I noticed some 'green junk' at a fuel stop. Turns out the head tank was weeping coolant and it was evaporating leaving the dye on everything. 1/2 Tube of Aluma Seal fixed that issue.
And in Michigan, when there was access to an Oak Tree, I took the chains that locked my spare trailer tires to the underside of the trailer and 'clearanced' the crash damage back to almost straight. I have photos of that process somewhere...
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Oh, that list could go on....and on!