Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
Yep...works fine.
Ditto on Autobox if you plan on drag racing it at all.
Car will be much more lively with the turbo.
-
Congrats Tim. I calculate 762bhp. Simply amazing... I sure would like to see what your car would do at Milan.
.Er....how close are you from Milan, BTW?
When I went to Export PA for training last time, I ended up blazing the trail back to the cottage, and pass by Milan Dragway coming and going...
Maybe with that setup you can best my time from 1982 there at Milan: 15.50 flat in my 1962 Turbo Microbus!!!
As far as I know, that's the 'official HybridZ track record at Milan'!
Very nice numbers Tim. Why not try it on that great Sunoco "84 Octane Sub-Regular" as well? For us terminally cheap lawnmower gas in the car types... LOL
-
Grind it off, start over.
next time, work it till it's done. A whole roof skimcoated should be able to be worked with a long board to completion in less than 6 hours of concentrated effort.
The SEAL it with epoxy primer. In the old days if it was going to sit you used lacquer primer and then whatever lacquer topcoat you had in the gun at the end of the day to stick a seal coat on it to keep moisture off of it.
You don't need the filler frinish-smooth, you can always block-sand back into it at a later time. But the KEY is to SEAL it before you set it away and let the moisture get onto it.
Any time you work it, and expose filler, make sure to seal it completely before finishing the day. I have had projects in the tropics that went on for three years not have a lifting problem following that simple standard. Seal it well at the end of every working day. And I'll tell you what, before I did the final primer/surfacer and final block sanding, I think I had just about every color of the rainbow of topcoat sealing where I worked. Metallic Purple, Turquoise, Yellow, Red, Midnight Blue Metallic...oh gawd it looked horrible. Black primer covers a lot of that, and added just the right 'blood red' look to my otherwise 'bright red' top coat!
Live and learn, eh?
-
He nailed it, that pressed steel plate is a dead giveaway.
The only thing I would use it for was a donor bellhousing for a KA Tranny retrofit!
-
Key is, buy it cheap when you got the $$$...
Then, if it sits around a couple of decades, and you got the storage space...no skin off my nose.
As I reply to my wife: 'Because a damned horse needs to be fed, groomed, brushed, and otherwise tended to, MY stuff just sits in a box till I get to it...THAT's why a car is better than a damned horse!'
I mean, you can't cosmoline a horse into suspended animation. And if someone's figured out how to, don't tell my wife, or we're going to have horse crap all over the back yard because my last argument against it will be gone...
The Z's played hell with the damn goats she had. They like to climb, and the roofs were soooo tempting. Damnable hooved horrors.
Horses don't like to climb everything laying around do they? That would be the next argument I suppose 'The Z's were there first!'
-
Yeah, if the PCV is not functioning, and you are getting a high in-crankcase pressure the best seals in the world will not stop the oil from coming over past them. i'm not sure of the design of yours, wether it's carbon ring, or labyrinth, but both will be overcome easily by oil backup by even as much as a few inches of water pressure.
The whole idea of the drain tube is that nothing really exists in the chamber under any pressure whatsoever. The seals are mere 'splash guards' at best. If you have any pressure they can be overwhelmed. Before you start spending money, check the drainage and pressure in the crankcase. A Magnahelic gauge and a fitting tapped into an old oil filler cap would work. Get something that reads to + and -5" H20, and if you peg the gauge positive....fix that first!
Note on the testing: Make sure the high pressure reference lines originate on the oil cap, and the engine bay reading with one port uncovered in the passenger's compartment can skew the readings. Two pieces of tubing aren't that expensive!
Copper Wire O-Ring of the exhaust flange works nice for a permanent leak-free gasket when combined with 736RTV (Red O2 Sensor Safe)
Good to see you got the fumes nixed right away.
Oh, and compression/leakdown tests will give you nothing on the condition of the valve seals Grumpy was talking about. Not much will. Again, they can be false diagnosed as 'bad' if you have compression blowby in sufficient amount to overwhelm the PCV system you are using.
A pressure test of the crankcase pressure is the only way to know. more than 4" is probably going to cause a problem.
Good Luck!
-
Cooler Air, denser, possibly has gotten your exhaust to a point where it was too rich to combust spontaneously before now is juuuust right?
Free flow exhausts will backfire if there is enough fuel in them, and enough aspirated air... Put a shot of Propane in a gallon paint can, poke a hole in one end, and light the hole. Thing burns out the hole for a second, then 'goes out' only to BLAM! Fire off several seconds after the visible flame went inside the can. You go from a combustible mixuure, to an explosive mixture, and the burn rate accelerates, giving the loud bangs.
Same thing in your exhaust. I'd say you are leaner now instead of really rich out the tailpipe, and it's more combustible for a little while till everything gets up to operational temperature.
Vague post, but that it goes away leads me in that direction. A bad condenser on the points can do something similar giving a backfire out the exhaust, but it won't go away with the car warming up...same for incorrect firing order or plug wires crossfiring, etc... Those stay...
-
Yeah, I was coming up the ramp at O'Hare and everybody was hanging at the end of the jetway. Backing up getting off the plane. I was thinking 'WTF are all these people so enthralled at?' Got there and there was a big hole in the nose of the 737 we were flying along in! Made the national news...if you do a search on the internet it's likely you can see video of the United Airlines flight that got hit with lightning flying around Chicago in a storm. That was the plane I was on! Late 90's as I recall. Can't pin it down any closer than that. Probably post 95, but before 98...closest I can come.
But yeah, that was my first thought---would have expected some composite glass mesh or something.
Truthfully when I got on a small commercial carrier 'up north' and saw small diameter chrome-moly seat supports I had the same thought "Wow, they are still using steel on passenger aircraft?"
You would think aluminum...but not (what looked like) Oxy Acetylene Welded CrMo tubing!
You just get used to seeing some things, and when something from days past comes up, it kind of jumps out at cha!
Good example would be seeing Drum Brakes on all four corners of a car today. They work, and work well...but you just don't expect to see it.
Tom's house is wicked cool inside. He went whole hog on the use of aircraft plywood. Really spindly looking arches, dramatic design elements. He usually did Concrete Tip-Up structures...I think he needed the challenge. What we do with our cars, he did on his house! LOL
No worries, PP!
-
The Gliders used on D-Day were produced in the UP of Michigan at the Ford Kingsford Facility, big milling and wood operation. Canvas covering.
Place where the BBQ Briquette Originated...because Mr. Ford was upset by all the 'Waste' of Sawdust at the facility. "Come up with something to do with that!"
And an industry was born!
But....recycling is 'new tech'! LOL
-
Bill Murray in the Pool...
-
Hey, I'm not dissing plywood! Stitka Spruce's qualities are on par with Steel... Given the proper alignment.
My bud from school is a Structural Engineer-Archetict type. Had to get loads of zoning and building variances for the house he built. Really complex balconies and interior arches he designed using Aircraft Spruce as the structural components.
Big arguments with local 'experts' in buildings and plans...
But he got them through, has a nice overhung interior balcony in his atrium area from the second floor held up with a realy spindly looking plywood arch... You would swear it'd break off just from the weight of the balcony. But he showed me the drawings on how this plywood was stronger than steel in the same directional bias.
Just hope it never gets wet...
LOL
-
Ditto BJ Hines commentary on my bone stock 1974 260Z running on 91 octane California Premium...
Put in that 100 Octane ERC Fuel, runs fine, no dieseling after shutdown.
Petrol is not what it once was.
Go to autozone, put in the "NOS" octane booster (seriously!) and see what happens. It adds effectively $1 per gallon to the cost of my gas, but STOPPED the dieseling and spark knocking during driving that I was experiencing. Not that I use it every tank, I just keep a lighter foot, and kill it with the clutch at idle before shutdown.
I know what fixes it, but I'm not spending any money on it. It runs, I try to minimize the damage and just run the 91....
-
It's a four-speed for sure. No dobut about it. For $100 you can do better...
-
it was an option that was availible on the 240z. maybe not an option but a available part
That's a myth, the 240 was never offered with anything other than the twin SU's anywhere in the world.
The manifold likely came off a Maxima, or any number of JDM Coupes and Sedans (Cedric, Gloria, Skyline, Leopard, etc).
The one to find, the one that is REALLY REALLY REALLY hard to find is the E32 Four-Barrel Manifold from the 67 Gloria.
You want 'cool piece rarely seen'? That Gloria Four-Barrel Manifold is it!
-
That piece is a 'buy it new and don't think about it again'
The time it will take you to clean and repair it properly will exceed the cost of a new one! They're under $100. Probably closer to $50.
Last one I bought was $45, so figuring it went up in the last year or so...
-
Just got around to seeing this again...
Looks like a JDM piece for either an S30 or Early Skyline.
Neither would have the clearance issues with the Brake Valves shown in the photos, and the Box and Kenmary Skylines had slightly more room in the fenderwells than either the S30 or S130.
Sucks about the outcome. Maybe next time.
Now you guys see why I love my Fairlady Z so much!
-
Reminds me of transparent aluminum (a form of aluminum oxide),
Ohhh! Scotty and Chekov revealed that to us earthlings to save the whales in one of the Star Trek Movies!
-
It was always fun to get stuck behind the corpse truck leaving the Dairy Farms on their way to "Render Row" near downtown L.A. as well...
Full 40 foot container full of gore, the 'daily haul' from the Dairy Farms out near Riverside. Which answers the question 'why would anybody think of moving a dead cow with a tractor bucket'...
To which the obvious answer is: Because if you stick a rope around it's neck and attach it to the hitch, you don't move the whole cow nearly as efficiently...
LOL
"Been there, done that!"
What was that Nissan or Toyota Ute ad with the cow stuck in the mud? "Oh bugger!"
LOL
-
Mine that are driven regularly are "pleasure use" and are ridiculously cheap to insure.
The 'sit in the yard' ones are under 'classic car storage' meaning no miles, but if a tree limb drops on them I get a payout. I have 12 cars under that coverage for $200 a year. Formerly I had a rider on my homeowners insurace that covered automobiles not registered, but stored on the property. My storage is through my homeowners policy, how they ended up wit hthe 'classic car storage' terminology as opposed to what I had before is a mystery for me. I think the 'parts cars' were all valued as "Condition 7" 240Z's from the Old Cars Price Guide, something like $2500 a piece.
AAA would not insure anything I had that wasn't registered or didn't have plates on it. Became an issue when CA linked insurance and registration and started suspending registration when the car was not insured. For a car that hadn't driven ANY miles in 10+ years, we just paid the $29 annual fees without thinking, then got a notice it was 'suspended' but then couldn't 'PNO' it because it was suspended... Catch 22...
I ramble...
-
It's your location and time of year.
Move to SoCal and get some sunshine, and suddenly you won't think of killing yourself anymore, or unloading your Z.
It could be worse, you could be driving a rustbucket 84 Chevette Diesel...
(Though you could park in the UAW Local parking lot then, instead of across the street...)
-
Agreed on the Singh Grooves...kind of misapplied 'for the sake of having them'---call it 'Hidden Rice' in that case.
I did some work at BP in Castellon earlier this year, and found one guy there that was big into Hondas. Had a hot Civic (don't they all)... He complained that the 'specialists' in the area don't necessarily know what they're doing, but will take your money and B.S. you all day long on what a great job they are doing.
He despised Rice as well, and apologized for the decals on his car as 'being there from the idiot I bought the car from' adding that his prime motivation was that he'd helped install the coil-over kit on the car, and knew it was on correctly so buying it wasn't going to present a problem later in something that was knackered up and improvised. His lamentation was JDM import engines costing so much, and opined that he was better off getting a complete JDM Hi-Performance STOCK motor, than letting 'any of these local butchers crack it open and mess it up'...
I'm thinking, "I thought I understood what he meant, but these photos are giving me a new appreciation of Carlo's Predicament!"
LOL
-
Man, I could post some photos from an incident here about 150 m from my operational area this past week, that would bring home 'the smell of death' in a big way...
But I would get SO banned.
AK47, Canoe full of Interlopers, Military Response... 9 Dead, on the beach in the tropical heat of Nigerian River Delta...
You would think 150m of separation would snub it a bit...but nope. They waited overnight before cleaning up the mess. And by then, walking out to the A.O. was not a pleasant smelling walk. >:^(
And a piece of advice: Never, NEVER think using a Forklift or Bobcat to move a dead cow (or Pig, for that matter, but they usually fit in the bucket completely so it's not as big a deal) once the legs have drooped after the initial bloating phase has subsided. If you think the smell was bad driving up to move it...wait till it splits open and everything spills out everywhere. Cleaning the implement of movement is not a fun task, either...
Speaking of livestock, anybody ever make "Cow Candles" after dark? I'm not sure I should go any further...
LOL
-
There is no fixed ratio on a roots supercharger.
The thing to remember is that a Roots style supercharger is an air pump, and nothing more. It is NOT an air compressor. Yes, air gets compressed often when an M90 is used, but that is more a side effect of it trying to move ever increasing amounts of air into a space that has a very small exit.
When the pressure on the intake side of a roots "blower" is less then that on the exit side, heat is generated. The greater the difference, the more heat that gets generated. Yes, there is heat generated by the air being moved, and also through bearing friction, but this is only accounts for maybe 1/3d of the temperature increase.
Those are somewhat incorrect/misleading statements. The roots style blower is an air compressor. This is not open to debate, it's a fact. Semantically if you want to differentiate it as a 'blower' or 'air pump' because it's a single stage application below 15psi discharge pressure that still does not relieve it of conforming to the physical laws regarding compression of gasses (Boyle's Law amongst the primary one coming readily to mind). But 'air pump' is the same thing as 'Air Compressor'. To think otherwise begs questioning who is misunderstanding the application. The reason heat is generated (even through your example) is that the pressure ratio or the 'air pump' or 'air compressor' (pick whatever term you like) goes sky high in a non-bypassed blower.
Bearing friction adds nothing to the heat generated to the air stream. Heat added to the airstream is purely a function of the pressure ratio being experienced and the stage compression efficiency at the time of compression.
I'm not sure what you are getting at, as most everything you said mirrors exactly what I have discussed. You speak of pushing air through a supercharger as opposed to bypassing around it during some modes of operation...what's the point again? I'm just confused at what you are getting at, or how it differs in any way from what has already been discussed. That the Roots Blower is a variable compression air compressor dependent on inlet and outlet pressures? Goes without saying, but at some point in the design stage you have to pick your ideal tip-speed, and compression ratio, and move outward from those points. Ideally any Roots Style blower is inefficient at a given pressure ratio. You don't see them in 55psi(g) applications much, do you? No, you will see Lysholm Screws, or two-stage centrifugals. Roots Blowers simply don't like 3:1 PR. 1.5:1 and at most 2:1 is their effective, practical limit. With a 7psi turbo pressure into the blower, and shooting for no more than a 1.5 pressure ratio (and designing your drive speeds to be accordingly set to achieve this tip speed/flow number) you would get 17.75 psi(g) out of the blower at the same temperature as you would in standard atmospheric service discharging at 7.25psi through the blower alone. How is that any different than the example you gave?
I think I have a pretty good handle on the physics and engineering involved in the prototype design Frank was proposing. I have a little background in this area.
If you can get in touch with on of the Ballas up in Buffalo NY, they used to run a shop that rebuilt blowers for the NHRA guys running in the N.E. circuits up and down the east coast, lots of rebuild stuff from BDS and the like. They closed down shop and moved on to other things just because of strain on the families doing all the travelling and long hours associated with the racing season and being in a critical support role. I'm sure he could tell you on any give big blower what is possible. His shop pulled in commercially avaialble blowers and totally reworked the rotors, gave a proprietary coating because the available commercial stuff (even though the casing said one thing) wouldn't hold up to the pressures used in competitive NHRA events. Rotor Flex became an issue as well...
-
Yeah, Sparky had the same thought I had: remove everything you installed and confirm that what you thought was a coincidence, really is...apparently it's not, so you sound like you're on the track now.
Good Luck!
.
Something died in my garage ...
in Non Tech Board
Posted
What is the Top Gear Camaro Incident?
Or should I ask?