Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Have you talked with Isky? They have stuff in that range. Ron tends to use a lot of lift comparatively with less duration. Gives a very nice all around engine. On your Nissan Core the out the door price is around $180. Not an El Inka $25 regrind for sure...but something that will work!
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If the CAS was bad, the timing wouldn't work at all IMO. The Computer changes timing based on inputs like RPM and AFM resistance. The ECU may be funky, I don't see how a CAS failing (failure mode would be to drop out signals and not get a spark) would cause timing not to move. Misfiring, yes, timing change is totally inside the ECU.
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New means New. JeffP orderd it from Nissan, it was not cheap!
If you know the one you are pinning hasn't slipped and will line up properly I don't see why you couldn't pin a used one. That's what I'm running.
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250 at 050 sounds more like it.
I have had four cylinders engines with 304 and 310 degree cams in them, and 325 is NOT a 'street cam' by any stretch of the imagination!
I recall my bud with a Toyota who installed some TRD 310/304 duration cams in his 2TG, then went through his carburettors several times since 'it must have a vacuum leak or something, I can't get it to idle below 1700 rpm'...just by chance during the conversation he talked about no brake booster action, and having the 5Kg Flywheel on it and stalling at every stop sign and I said: "Did you put in the TRD Cams?"
Uh, yeah, why?
"Uh, er...Dude, you got 310/304 duration cams with 14mm lift, I'm suprised you got it to run at 1700!" Sometimes 'building it from parts' just doesn't end up being the fantasy we think it will be...top it off, the guy is 50+ and is complaining about in town drivability with the setup. :Rolls Eyes: And it has to use carburettors, Megasquirt will not be installed "just because"... :Rolls Eyes Again:
Some people's kids...can't beat em...can't shoot em! LOL
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I really need to make it up there to see that beast.
Those Hobbs Switches look all to familiar! LOL
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Like the Governator Said: "I'll be back!"
If I have phone numbers, I can usually call when I'm in the area. I get up here on business now and again...and talking Z's beats the four walls at the Holiday Inn Express in Lodi...Madera...Tracy...Stockton...Oakland...well, you get the idea! LOL
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AHHHHH! yes, the good old threaded hex plugs in the top of the head. totally forgot about those.
hell, let's go DEVAS on the valves, and then we can use those threaded holes for the upper water gallery! LOL
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This could be something as simple as the tires getting caught up in the wheelwells.
Good Point! I know we watched JeffP's tires move forward in the wheelwells during dyno sessions. The ONLY thing that could be causing that in his car is trailingarm flex---his subframe is solid-bushed, and when he made the bushings, he moved the wheels BACK in the wheelwell almost 1/2"--and we were measuring close to 3/8" deflection!
Trailing arm flex may indeed be causing something there with your instantaneous torque loadings. If the wheels were binding against the body, there should be some clear evidence...
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I think the squat is somewhat overblown. If a VW Bus Transaxle and CV joint can handle full sand Paddla-Traks behind a Hilborn Injected Chevy with a suspension that squats probably 30 degrees when digging in...a 15 degree squat on a ZX should be more than managable.
Sure, you can up the spring rate, or even damp the hell out of it with shock valving...but a CV should not experience any different loading at 30 degrees of angularity than at 0 degrees (if properly clearanced).
Really, the Tripod Style Axles are known to break on N/A Powered S30's with good hook at drag races...so going CV is the only step left. To make them survive all you need do is clearance the cages like the VW guys have been doing for decades.
With a clearanced CV Cage, and properly clearanced axle ends, they should be able to hold all torque from 0 to about 30 degrees. Some of the really articulated cars will look to have near 45 degrees offset in some circumstances. Look to the transaxle on Spencer Lowe's old off-road truck and you will see plenty of CV angularity and 'squat' with gobs of torque transmitted and shock loadings to boot.
That is the way I'd go---clearance a REAL CV, and not try to make the Tripods Work. I believe Frank 280ZX has installed a complete Z31 Subframe (five lugs and all) into his 79ZX, and I have seen both Z32 and Skyline Subframes under S130's. I do have photos of some of these setups taken in 2004 from the 'japanese contingent' at the National Z-Con, but won't have access to them till the weekend. PM Me with an e-mail addy if you want me to shoot you some photos. Frank 280ZX posted some of the conversion photos somewhere...don't know if they were here, classiczcars, or zdriver galleries. But they are online.
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The 280ZXT is a 'tripod' joint, not a CV. For a true CV style, you have to go to at least a Z31 "Double Offset Birfield Joint" in Nissanspeak...
The Tripods ARE stronger than the U-Joints. Seems the problem isn't the joint that is breaking (as the trunnion in a U-Joint would shatter), it's now the next weakest link: Axle Shafts away from the Tripod. I have seen this in L6 Powered cars as well if they hook. Could be a stress crack. Were the axles/joints magnafluxed, Zyglo Inspected, or even spot-chek'd before installation to be sure no cracks at the radius were present?
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Lag is overblown. My Datalogging with the Megasquirt shows lag to be imperceptibleonce boost threshold is attained. My WOT line traces almost like a digital switch to full boost from vacuum. Most 'lag' is really from improper driving below boost threshold. I think the setup has deminimus effects from the piping route chosen. For the available horsepower goals, I would be suprised that the effects will be noticable at all. Given the numbers KTM calculates, in the real world they mean 'nothing'...this is a theoretical argument at this point, and I will lay money that in the real world of operation, the setup will function flawlessly. Regardless of what theoretical improvement might be available.
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LOL
BTW, Sac'to guys...I'm in the Tracy Holiday Inn Express tonight only! One night only, and I'm off to Vegas in the A.M.!
WOO HOO! I get to try and snag tickets to 'Spamalot'....
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The Anime pales in comparison to seeing the real world SSS car running the Wangan realtime...with real sounds!
Now if they transfer the original movie sounds to the Anime...
But that blue flame from the 125mm Tailpipe on lift-throttle....ahhhh! Memories!
My HKS Type 2 should be showing up any time now...waiting, waiting, waiting...
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I would posit many people who run 1/4 mile at a time probably won't encounter this issue with cooling, but people who are really hammering on it for full load dyno sessions, track events, and high speed contests where the engine is running WOT for minutes at a time will benefit from addressing this issue.
Those are some nice cutaways, people can really see what is going on in there. I would say that with a -4 NPT or -6 NPT hole at the indicated point you would have access to the interior of the head to attack some of that flash with a carbide burr and knock some holes in it to allow steam entrapped below the flash to escape...
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I don't work in absolutes, I won't say 'no matter what internals I use' because a big cam will shoot your vacuum and give Hc out the ying yang...
The guy with the Maxima is running the stock L24E ECU, and will be running Methanol Injection to allow for higher boost levels without an intercooler. The engine bay is crowded enough, this kind of stuff can be easily hidden using spraypaint...
But the answer is the thing has to pass out the tailpipe and LOOK stock, as well as have the stuff functional like EGR, etc....
You add an intercooler and go to the referee, or not have a Cat on the car, you are wasting your time. Stock means stock, gentlemen. The closer it stays to stock, the better chance you have of not raising flags. You raise a flag, they clook closer, they look closer, you get screwed. it's that simple.
Worry about getting it to pass, and THEN modify it after the Turbo is listed on the Door Jamb with the BAR Sticker.
As for as Megasquirt, it's a dead-on illegal modification. It gets found, it fails you. That being said, I 'have heard' of several VW Busses running around a certian "Non-Attainment Region" who have successfully been through two SMOG checks now (DYNO SMOG CHECKS!)...they used a stock-looking wiring harness, or hacked their stock harnesses to do their MS conversion...so letter of the law says "No, Megasquirt is Illegal" but in practice if you can pass it by a dullard then...well...
Again, the best way to do it is put everything STOCK in there, and get it to pass. Then screw with what you want to do, and worry about a general smog check by a dullard who is content to look, wiggle, and run the machine. You don't want to screw with the referee, sometimes they will know what they are looking at. But Turbo is Turbo...you have a stock J-Pipe on there, chances are good that is as far as it will go.
I mean, c'mon man, the guy put an L28ET into a Maxima Wagon! If it can pass THERE....
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Yeah, it's one of the reasons JeffP always regrets calling me and discussing anything! "Every time I talk with you it costs me $2000!" LOL
If you are considering an electric pump, the plumbing is secondary, really.
I believe if you take a look at how the Electramotive People vented their heads, reverse flowing will be a snap, though the bypass circuitry may need to be rethought.
And electric pump pumping into the head, and out the stock waterpump location would not be the most difficult to do, especially if you use a nice aluminium plate to replace the water pump and use that as your 'outlet housing' for the thermostat.
With the Pontiac we did for a class project, we reverse flowed a 6.6L Trans Am (great to have GM drop off flood vehicles every year!) and ended up using a much smaller radiator---I want to say Toyota Corona or something like that. Granted the external pump design of the Pontiac and SBC is easier to alter than on our Datsuns, the electric pump option makes for an interesting alternative.
Really, pushing it in there cold to the head (130F maybe...), and under pressure will really halt any kind of spot-boiling issues in my mind at least. The problem is the coolant already heated when it hits those head pockets, well over 100 degrees in any case, and with the way Aluminum wants to transfer heat...oooh, bad!
I have been convinced that when the Bonneville Car goes Turbo, I will figure out the plumbing issue and do it that way. From the way the Pontiac acted during our winter testing, the reverse flow really made for a better, more behaved vehicle. With a high specific output L, I think the reverse flowing of the system would reap many benefits if from nothing else, the decreased water temperature being introduced to the head.
I can't think of any high-efficiency water transfer system that does not put counterflow cooling at the head of the list: coolest water at hottest point of heat generation. Heat exchangers, refrigerant systems, etc... the only possible downfall is the formation of steam bubbles and having the pocket go to the head...proper venting and bypass lines should eliminate most of this danger as it does in industrial applications everywhere.
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Buy a new shaft, find a suitable hardened dowel pin (JeffP and I used a 3mm Hardened Pin) and then go to it.
It was spotfaced, drilled and then reamed undersize to the 3mm dowel, then the dowel (frozen to -40 in a freezer) was pressed in using an arbor press.
Of course the hole was deburred, typical machinist practices were followed, ends of the pin were staked just to be sure... If I had not SEEN the thing jump almost 180 degrees while on the dyno during a hiccup, I would NEVER have thought the thing would have done it like it did!
We retimed the distributor, then ran it again till we got a slight instability, went back to idle to check time and found the timing had moved 7 degrees!
Once they go, they go again easier. Since pinning it, we have not had a problem with it moving. It's probably overkill with a 3mm pin, but meh...I know it won't spin! LOL
BTW, I have JeffP's OLD spindle in my car, it DOES NOT line up with the mark on the oil pump, so I had to time it 'by guess and by golly' to get the proper 11:25 drive tang positioning. That is the only reason I say to use a new shaft: you can pin it and then timing the engine is a matter of lining up the 'dot' with the mark on the oil pump and stuffing it up there, as opposed to dicking around trying to figure out how many teeth to offset to get it right.
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Personally, I'm kind of leaning towards the Evans NPG solution, but they require elimination of all water from the system, which isn't that easy without pulling the block.
Easy as pie, run your engine till warm, shut down, drain coolant.
(This sounds wierd...)
Refill with the best technical grade Isopropyl Alcohol you can get your hands on, I can get 99% from the hardware store.
Let it have some residence time to assimilate the water left over, then drain and leave it open to evaporate.
Alcohol Flushing is very efficient at removing trace amounts of water in any oil system. I have pumped 100 gallons at a time through large Centrifugal Compressor gearboxes and sumps after an oil cooler had broken some tubes and then contaminated the system with water. Those high quality pinions and thrust collars don't take long in water to corrode to the point of uselessness!
I cuirculate with a diaphragm pump.
For the Block you can probably get away with a gallon in through the thermostat housing, and drain it into a bucket through the lower hose.
Heater Core, if you have one could be done separately.
Alcohol works really well for soaking up water from just about anything! Cleans up grease and oil as well---and usually won't kill rubber seals so it shouldn't have any affect on the water pump seals or stuff like that.
Good Luck!
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Then again...like GM found out in the 50's, but didn't take the $$$ to implement till the recent SBC Generation...who says the coolat needs to enter the block? Kind of stupid, no? Putting the coldest water in the coolest portion of the block---totally opposite of any other heat exchanger!
I reverse flowed a 6.6 Pontiac a long time ago, after reading some articles about it, and having it make sense to me: Coolest Water entering the hottest portion of the engine, and then pulling that heat down to the block where it aids in keeping cylinders round from equal heat top to bottom... Really cools down the heads as well.
I just cause all sorts of problems making statements like this, huh? LOL
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Anything without a CARB E.O. number is illegal to add to your vehicle. Period.
Exhaust gets into a grey area as 'replacement parts' are kind of open... Yes, if the car had a catalyst, you need a catalyst...a 3" High-Flow will support more than 600HP and not cut anything appreciably off any sort of power so why not have it on there?
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The NA engine cant not handle the abuse of the turbo (pistons, cyclinder wall, head, valve, etc.) I mean you can turbo an NA but you will blow something if you go over 7psi. as for visual inspection, what I would do is get my self a turbo engine and do all of the following and when it come to smog check, just take out ur turbo and put in the na, and visa versa and you wont have to worry for another two years. Just my two cents. which part of sac are you from, Im pretty close by
My gawd! I'm on borrowed time with 42K miles of boosted (17psi and up) on my N/A 77 Block/Pistons/Head....
The California Smog Check is so easy to pass legally just put the parts on, go to the referee, and get the sticker so you don't have to bother with taking all the stuff off every time you smog. I know people who were afraid of the process, and then called me on the celphone afterwards gleeful that they couldn't believe how easy it was to do it legally! I had been telling him it was no big deal, but until you see how easy it really is, you can't really fathom it.
I mean, the guy has a 10psi Turbo Maxima WAGON... That is about the most unlikely vehicle for the swap, and his is passing both visual and tailpipe. It really is not big deal. Do it right, register it correctly, and if you ever get stopped in a roadside check you have the sticker that basically keeps your car out of impound for an illegal engine swap!
Don't by the gloom, doom, and impending catastrophe naysayers...it's all B.S.
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If the speed sensor is the same one they use on the 240SX, then it should take a standard speedo pinion. The 240SX speed sensor fits in the late ZX trannies, and if you 'slot the groove' and rotate it 180 degrees it will fit in the early cases as well.
If it's a gear to drive the sensor (like the 240SX) then it should be converted pretty straightforward. If it's an MPU that reads something obscure like output shaft gear teeth...then you're poochin' it bigtime!
Good Luck, let us know how it works out!
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I SECOND THAT SECOND SUGGESTION FROM JOHN C!
Schorr Metals in Anaheim, Off the 91 at Kraemer/Glassell, North to Placentia---Southwest corner of Placentia and Kraemer.
They sell surplus metal by the pound, as well as new stuff. It's RIGHT around the corner from McFadden-Dale hardware, as well! Perfect proximity for one-stop-shopping. Between those two places you can get in real trouble!
They have short end-cuts of Billet Aluminum, nice for lathe projects when you don't want a big peice or to pay for new stuff and pay a cutting charge.
I buy a lot of 1/4" Diamond Plate (Aluminum) there for trailer decking, and floorboard stuff. The prices are posted by color code---really easy to figure out. I have been going there for years...like since 1990! And I didn't even know they had a website!!! LOL
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Jeff, take a look at the Electromotive Turbo Setup...
They did exactly that in the photo, drilled holes in the cylinder head and used -6 or -8 braided hoses to a common header that went to someplace else in the cooling system near either the restriction, or radiator.
That engine was pushing 800hp...and I am probably sure they used the higher operating pressure cap as well...
Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?
in L-Series
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Welll, I can always bring the trailer and help relieve you of that nasty, old, broken down Bonneville Racer!
LOL
Thanks for the info on the LD Pump, that is some interesting information.