Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Only in the Aerosol-Covered Mists of "Back East" will you find such an animal...
There, the ressurected Corpse of Freddie Mercury has taken up the strange job of modeling with Auto Interior Parts...
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WOW! That's some restriction!
Thanks for the clarification.
BTW, a 'very accurate gauge' for this measurement would be a mercury manometer---this pressure would indicate as roughly 2-3" Hg... and with much resolution. Easily checked during a dyno run.
And yes, I went back and checked my DDA books, and theirs IS Inches H20---when I did the conversion from PSI to "Hg I went "oh. maybe I misrecalled...) Two Strokes, what can you do? LOL
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A cam when ground is only as good as the guy grinding it, and is really NOT a 'bolt-on' part! You have to degree it, of course, but beyond that, you need to make a few dyno pulls a couple of degrees advanced and retarded to see which setting gives you the best compromise. Our Bonneville engine was PEAKY as hell and had trouble between the gears set 'straight up' we ended up making some dyno pulls advanced and retarded and found that at 2 degrees our torque band widened almost 2000 rpms! We didn't loose one bit of top end power (maybe 2HP as I recall) but we had a torque plateau that now went from 4000 rpms up, instead of starting about 5700 rpms and pulling to 8200!
2 degrees!
Does that mean the cam grinder was off on his settings 2 degrees when he ground it?
Does that mean the design of the valve opening and closing events was off two degrees when it was designed?
Or, more likely, with the setup we had we got the best results at THAT specific point?
I tend to think it was a combination of the grinder being inattentive, and us simply correcting an error that seems insignificant.
FWIW, at four degrees we lost both torque and power, and going to the other extreme didn't net anything at all, and in fact was a net loss at every station. So what I brought away from it was 'it was close, but we had to make it right'---it was dialed in---what the cam card said was where the events occurred, but dialing it in to the engine regardless of what the cam card says is what netted us the ability to pull the next gear at 140+ mph and keep accelerating!
Since this time, I have become acutely aware that sometimes the people they have grinding cams (regardless of source) may not be paying very close attention to what they are doing all the time!
If you are concerned about torque, dial it in on a dyno. Tomei makes a nice adjustable gear you don't have to take the gear off to change it, just nudge the cam after loosening the clamping bolts!
Good Luck
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The new Ingersoll Rand #2135 Titanium 1/2" drive Impact Guns have 1100 ft-lbs instantaneous reverse torque with 700# normal... and nigh on 625# in the forward direction! It's a composite body, meaning it's UNDER 4# in your hand as well. 7 Vane Air motor....5CFM Nutrunning, and 24 CFM busting...gaaaarrrrrgggghh! Under $300 as well (check Harbor Freight)
Times are changing gentlemen, and those old tools just won't cut it! Many pros are grabbing those Ti guns because they're CHEAP and they have the power of what you formerly used a 3/4"drive to do! I use one to do the 2 5/8" Casing Nuts on a 4C Centac---used to hang a 3/4" impact to do that, and it was a ball-buster to get to some of them...now with the 2135 I can almost one-hand the operation, and when you got 44 Nuts that size to do...LIGHT comes in handy! LOL
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"it was a bit of a surprise to me how much the cam changed the sound of the exhaust."
Changing the advance/retard of the cam while dialing it in for maximum power will have the same effect. When we had the Bonneville car dialed in 'straight up' the exhaust valves were opening with pressure still in the chamber, and it sounded like a NHRA Top-Fueler. Some people were actually scared when we fired it up--sounded baaaaada$$! But we got more power as we dialed it in, and the exhaust note (that which you get on straight headers with no exhaust attached...) changed quite a bit!
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What is your actual fuel pressure?
Short of that, there is no other place to start from the information in the post.
Clean connections on all EFI related points, including ECU plugs and pins.
Clamping the return line makes fuel pressure go up, meaning lean. Normally everything makes these run rich...
"Bogs" is a pretty non-descriptive adjective, do you mean it's popping and backfiring and just not going over 2K? If so, I'd look to dirty electrical connections on injectors and the ECU failing all else.
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I just want to clarify one thing:
"anytime youve got more than about 1-1.5 psi of back pressure your potentially restricting power potential"
Are you meaning PSI or Inches of Water (assuming Normal Aspiration).
I know Detroit Diesel gave stack restriction measurments in inches of water, and for their blower-purged 71-Series the maximum restriction in the exhaust was 3.5" H2O---which is why I'm asking.
I think the number of 1-1.5 psi is roughly equivalent to 22-30" H2O so there's a big difference there I'm wondering about.
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Instead of using tape how about PST on the NPT side of the fitting? Seems like it might be less likely to clog something in the fuel system, be it injector or pump or filter...
On all our equipment, PST is the ONLY allowable sealant for tapered threads. If I go to a site and see teflon tape on ANY of the joints, I am to note it specifically as to location & condition, inform the customer that he is to remove the affected fittings and redope with PST 597 or equivalent (High Strength PST preferably) and if they refuse, get them to sign a release of liability before proceeding with ANY further work.
This has caused much friction in the past.
FWIW, I prefer the PST because you don't really need the torque and thread deformation inherent in Teflon/Tapered Thread systems. I find I can make up and remake NPT connections several times without galling, including on stainless steel when using PST as opposed to Tape. The idea of sealing without torquing the hell out of it appeals to me. As always, read the instructions, I find when I clean the fittings and use the primers recomended on some of the fittings...and then give them adequate set time before pressurizing the system it's amazing how little fitting installation torque is required to keep considerable pressures at bay!
There are small copper and aluminum washers (Dead soft annealed) from the Cryogenic Industry out there floating around that crush on the face of the A/N 37 Degree Taper that allow for reclamation of a damaged fitting without removing it from the installation, as well as allowing for more thermal expansion without possible leakage---that is the only thing I have ever seen allowed in the 37 Degree Tapered Joint of the A/N Fitting...
NAVAIR 1-1A-15, USAF T.O. 1-1A-15.... Oh the hours spent referring to those texts when dealing with just this subject! LOL
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John C is correct, it is a tubing designation with equivalency for flexible hoses.
A quick trip through NAVAIR 1-1A-8, or USAFTO 1-1A-15 will tell you all you ever wanted to know about this kind of specification. It will make your head spin! Great toilet reading as an Aircraft Apprentice! LOL
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That is what I did, my harness was a prefab cable, and then I ran TPS and TACH, and O2 wires as shielded wires separate from the main bundle.
Tefzel Milspec Wire as well! LOL
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Try simply taking an optical CAS from any of the Nissan Vehicles and driving it by the distributor shaft. In a pinch you can drive it off the cam, but meh!
Some of the CAS units on the SR20's are pretty compact. For a four cylinder you only need two paddles for ignition events ...
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"325 x 475 - He calls it the Hot Street."
I call it 'lack of standard measurement'! LOL
What are they measuring the duration at, when it bumps off the base circle till it returns? I would be very curious to see what their specifications stack up like when compared with others who use the '0.050" Lift' standard. It really cuts down the duration, and on an N/A engine .050' lift is where you start getting appreciable flows. Turbo is different, those valves crack at the right boost pressure and you are flowing from seat to seat.
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"Shablam! Poor man's L28 torque plate! No?"
No...
Using a 4" Slab of Aluminum you can punch out a deck plate on a Bridgeport manually in short order. A junk head cut up would not give you the same rigidity as the deck plate.
Back to topic, the boring plate discussion was covered previously, lots of discussion.
I've seen all sorts of high performance engines built using stone-age implements (can you guys remember a 'block top' boring bar?) so while there is 'state of the art' you have to ask 'am I competing in F1, or driving on the street'? What is unacceptable for top ranks of competition is perfectly acceptable for daily drivers with even more than occasional track use.
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"This car is a pre-production model imported from Japan. The first production model was in 1979."
This is pure BS.
Your car was manufactured in June/July of 1978, and federally qualifies at a 1978 model.
Why do I say this? Because mine is HS130-024XX and it was produced the last half of August 1978!
Though your car was reworked by someone stateside. Dash cluster, as well as rear cargo area was renovated using stateside parts. The early 280ZX's in Japan had a cover, and the fullsize spare was on the deck, beneath the cover! The interior you have in the back is 'export' specification.
Fairlady Z's in the back yard now:
"46"-71 Z-S (S30-062XX)
"50"-76 Z-S 2/2 (GS31-XXXXXX) (Late 75 Production Time, EFI Car, Small Non-Electric Mirrors)
"51"-76 Z-L 2/2 (GS31-XXXXXX) (Early 76 Production Time, EFI Car, Larger Ugly Electric Mirrors, Power Windows and A/C)
"53"-78 280Z-L (HS130-0024XX) (53.8.6 Tank Code matching other dates in the assembly nothing later than 53.8.13)
Mine is rougher! Does yours smell like Cat Urine? If it does, let me know what to do to get that smell out...
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20 was what I used for most of mine. Power was 12, injectors were 18, if I recall...
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Most of the discussion about 'the harmonic' revolves around crank breakage. It's not really a valid concern---like you noted proper balancer installation and running through a critical speed instead of loitering at it for extended period and you should not have a problem with crank breakage. Larger industrial engines experience crank breakage due to harmonics usually in the first critical speed. Cooper GMV 's were good for that, V16 with 3 foot bore, 6 foot stroke...if you operated under load or overloaded at the proper rpm, the result was not nice.
That is the crux of the misunderstanding, like you stated JM, people think if you go over that rpm it goes 'boom' and that isn't the case. In fact, by limiting their upper engine rpm range AT the target harmonic you can exacerbate the issue! If you have access to proper vibration sensing equipment, you can ring the crank and see what it's resonant frequency occurs at, and work from there to lessen it's effects.
The L28 ran for four seasons+ without incident. Upon teardonw nothing was amiss. The first season, while runnning a setup that had a power peak at 7500rpms, Andy did run across the harmonic dampner nut loose at the end of a run...literally fell out into his hand when he checked it! The damage was done, so he welded the nut to the crank and we ran it to the end of the season. We replaced the crank that offseason, and changed to the EFI setup with a power peak at 8250, and then started shifting around 8500 or so, and went three seasons without another incident related to the crankshaft...the piston pins walked and kissed the cylinder walls...but nothing on the crank. "Never seen pressed-in pins do that before!"
Key to any harmonic is to pass through it as fast as possible to minimise the chance for resonance.
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They say it has a 9000rpm redline. Doesn't that contradict what everyone has experienced with L-series cranks? -or- is this problem cured by the overly priced kameari billet fully counterweighted crankshaft?
"Everyone"? Our L28 in the Bonneville Car runs at 8500. The L20A currently in the vehicle for G/PRO Competiton is shifted at 93-9500 rpms. And these are 'conservative endurance' builds believe it or not!
In Japan, in the mid 80's, a 9K L-Engine was what you wanted if you were up front of the competitors.
Non-Crossflow Carburetted Blowthrough (50mm Mikuinis) running twin turbos were routinely street driven with 400+Kw. I personally witnessed several passes at a local dyno in Okinawa in 1986 where the car consistently put down 444Kw! This was on the non-crossflow head, and having a redoline/shiftopoint (like that Japanese Accent there?) of between 9 and 9200 rpms.
The crank harmonic discussed online is more related to the early cranks that were not properly counterweighted.
Oh, and both the cranks in the Bonneville Car: Pulled out of the junkyard, polished journals, magnafluxed, and bobweight balanced.
No polishing of the counterweights, no knife-edging, no cryotreating. Just a standard prep and good balance on a 163,000 miles L28 Crank. Same goes for the L20A Crank: only it had about 105,000 Km on it. Standard timing chain set, nothing fancy there either!
"The 7500 Harmonic" is overblown and terribly misunderstood.
And I'll agree with mortensen on the degradation of the thread---too much bad info bubbles forth far too easily on this topic, the referenced link is a good example of the swarf that gets thrown about regarding it.
Are all the "Tool Shed" posts blocked from being 'searched' from the general search engine?
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GM TBI Injectors, you say?
I already contacted them about HS6 and HS4 compatibility.
"It's in the works, HS4 this winter, HS6 before then, probably around Thanksgiving."
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I works, but if you are in California, you will have a time finding a place to do it. It was once easy to have done for under $500...
Now....
"Thank your legislators for protecting the environment so children can eat five pounds of sand per day, every day, for five years...and not have any cancerous effects AT ALL!"
Woo Hoo. If you find a place to do it, let me know! And how much they charge as well!
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Ever take a look at the castings closely?
Hitachi, like Yamaha, has a very distinctive mark. Even with 'Nissan' throttle bodies you can find 'The Distinctive Trademark of Hitachi' on some of them! Many times it's a factor of who did the design work.
Nissan may have done the work, as they did have a large foundry, but some of it morphed into Fuji Heavy (ever notice Subie Diffs are R180's and R200's? 'Datsun Parts' to us, but "Fuji Heavy" componentry available to anybody who wanted to buy in sufficient numbers.)
Jaguar used Saginaw Steering Gear components made at Plant 2 in Saginaw Michigan for years. Matter of fact, there was a LOT of 'secret product interchange' on componentry.
Johnson Controls makes seats for Ford...Dash Assemblies for Nissan and Ford, amongst others...
Some people do one thing, do it well, and everybody beats a path to their door.
Oh, and 'I have ways' of finding this stuff out. LOL
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Yep! No 280Z's outside North American Market. And a 280C Coupe or Sedan would probably be like finding hen's teeth...
Probably the best way would be to follow the thread on the converted SU to EFI thread that used twin Throttle Bodies in place of the carburettors. With that, any set of injectors would work if you machined the existing manifold, then you find whatever you need for an air door---putting a plenum on the SU Runners and any Throttle Body from a comparable sized engine that is locally available would work.. From there yes, fuel rail, fuel pump, some way to make sure the fuel pump stays flooded in fuel...so surge tank or swirl pot, injectors, air temp sensor, water temp sensor...that should do it after wiring harness is fabbed up.
Most of the stuff can be salvaged from locally available EFI Cars, and the Megasquirt Calibrated to work with what you can find.
As for the 280Z comment...what can you say to him? "Buska Paa!"
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSH! Blobber, it's our secret...LOL Even if I spelled it wrong, phonetically, it's right eh?
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I wonder if that is the one that dissapeared with the Elusive Mr. Les Heath?
LOL
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Yeah, JeffP did the Nisstune thing...45 minutes on N/A portion, then another 45 minutes on Boost Load Scalars. Making passes from 80 to 120mph while trying to adjust the AFR is just not practical on the street.
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I hate to burst your bubble, but I don't think this swap is worth it if you're trying to combat fuel starvation in corners. I went through the trouble of putting a 280 tank in my 240, and with a high flow Walbro fuel pump, it was sucking air in hard left turns at not much below a half a tank. I ripped the 280Z tank out and put my 240 tank back in with a sump welded to the bottom. The best solution would be to run a surge tank which has been discussed extensively elsewhere on this forum.
Believe me, I was extreemly frustrated after spending a lot of time and money to get the 280 tank in the car and still have starvation problems.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
EXCELLENT POINT NIGEL!
This is EXACTLY the phenomenon I was talking about in the 'build a nice surge tank' post! Just because you have a 280 Tank does not mean you can't run dry or that you don't require an external surge tank!
I have said it before, even on triple Mikuini Cars, the Datsun Competition Manual used two fuel pumps and a surge tank to fuel N/A 240's in competition!
The surge tank is more of an issue to solve cornering problems with fuel starvation, and it's combatted by making a vessel taller than it is wide so that during cornering the outlet (pump suction) is always flooded.
The nice thing about the 280 Tank is that for a normally driven street car, it will perform satisfactorily for most of the people out there in daily driven activities. If you are racing, a Surge Tank is ALWAYS a good idea, EFI OR N/A!
240 rod oil squirters
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I asked the question one time about the orifice size on the Z32TT engine, as well as the original VG30's with turbos...they had dedicated oil squirters for the piston crowns, and I wanted to investigate this for the L on a...er..."High Specific Output" Turbocharged L-Engine that would be operated at boost for long periods. Like 5 minutes to 10 minutes at WOT at a stretch. I figure at that kind of loading, all the cooling I could get to the piston crowns to remove heat will be helpful.
Some of the stuff those rod squirter holes do is lubricate the piston pin as well...the rod isn't gun-drilled for forced lube up there, so the squirter and piston crown drainback is all that lubes a full-floater!