Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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The same side inlet/outlet intercooler is better the shorter it is - the first 25% of the core after the inlet gets 80% of the flow.
For maximum efficiency, an inlet and outlet diagonally opposed is better.
I would disagree only because I have seen crossflow 'two pass' intercoolers where both inlet and outlet are on the same side. They can be configured any number of ways...say for a 12" high I/C, the bottom 6" flows left to right, and the top 6" flows right to left---with an open plenum on the end to allow the reversal.
If you have a conventional tank setup, yeah, I could agree that diagonally opposed is better.... Then again changing the tanks isn't that big a deal either!
Why Comprimise?
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That guy is fishing....
That is more than I spent for my entire 71 Fairlady Z S30-06225!
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Braaap... of course I have to be looking at this post as my 15 year old son walks by and sees your bolt-action photos...
you bassssss-tard!
LOL
Looks like now I will be machining a bolt-action....
Why do I even venture off the car-related section when The Boy is still lurking about? When will I learn?
LOL
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What kind of Helmet Cam?
I bought one of the Oregon Scientific Helmet Cams---it's not exactly a 'lipstick' camera, but it works O.K. for our Bonneville Car.
Always looking for digital motion cameras that I can use to monitor various things during the run...call it a 'visual datalog'...
I bought the 2Gb SD storage chip at Fry's for something like $19, and now I can record 2 hours digitally on the thing. Really disgusting when you consider I paid almost $1500 for my VHS CamCorder in 1985...and this one was a whole $167 + the Memory Chip cost!
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BAH! Stateside Door Panels...
You tease, you!
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Imagine the weight of the 100L factory rally tank!
(32 Gallons)
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I forgot the name of the at-home fueling system you can buy and hook up to your home's natural gas line, but it was around $1500 outright. Of course, there are state and federal tax incentives....this can seriously cut the price. It will take overnight (around 6-8 hours) to fill a smaller car's tank with about 12 gallons (gasoline) equivalent of CNG at aroudn 4100 psig (for operation to a temperature compensated 3600 psi)---slow fills always give you more range due to being able to go right up to the safety relief valve setting on the tank... Anyway, the amortized costs of the fueling is about 40 cents a gallon when you factor in electricity to run it. Your payback on the cost of the unit depends on how much you use it and how much gasoline costs locally...
Anyway, IMPCO is the OE supplier of Propane and CNG components to GM at least. I took care of their flowbench, testing, and R&D CNG Fuel Injector complex from 99 to 2002---right across from John Wayne Airport in Costa Mesa...Santa Ana, whatever...
I believe IMPCO is a parts/components suppler.
There was a company on Gothard Ave in Huntington Beach called "AFV" (Alternative Fuel Vehicles) which was a BIG converter of busses, cabs, and specialty vehicles. You may be able to see if they have a listed number or website and check them out for components as well.
My thoughts on the conversion were to buy a surplus government vehicle for cheap, and scavenge the major components onto another vehicle.
If you think about it, there are PLENTY of CNG Crown Victorias, and swapping that WHOLE 5.0 drivetrain (or even the new modular 4.6) into a Z would be fairly straightforward. The BEST part is that you can (after the car is converted) here in CA, apply for the "HOV" lane stickers.
CAN YOU IMAGINE: "Tree Huggers" in their cramped and generic Prius and Insights trundling along ALONE in the "HOV" lane (carpool lane) and being passed by a ROARING SNORTING HYBRID Z powered by CNG?
I mean, I drove a CNG truck with those Carpool lane stickers on it, and was continually pulled over by the CHP and Sheriff. I GOT OFF playing the 'hippie' with phrases like 'Hey, Duuuude, it's a CNG vehicle, Duuude. Didn't you see the sticker?' They always were shocked, and then apologized for pulling me over. One even said "Sorry, I'm an Idiot! I looked right at it, and it didn't even register! Have a nice day!"
When was the last time a cop apologized to you for pulling you over? I mean, many times I was doing 80 in a 65 when they pulled me over, and the DOH-Factor just made them run back to the cruiser with their tail between their legs!
I mean, really, that ALONE is worth the conversion hassle in my book! LOL
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Chances are great that you still have the flexplate spacer on the end of the crankshaft. Heat it up a bit with a propane torch and pull on it, and VIOLA! the standard L-Engine Pilot hole is BEHIND the spacer---which has a much larger hose to support the pilot spud of the Torque Converter.
Don't feel bad, people always think that spacer is an integral part of the crankshaft, and in some cases have tried bolting the flywheel on to it!
The L6 engine has the same pilot hole for ALL crankshafts: 1969 L20A to 1984+ LD28 and everything in between.
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So basically your only hope now is that the crank and cam from the SD33 fit the L series. which is unfortunately unlikely. I hate to say it, but we are doomed to have a 3.2L cap on our engines.
Regrind the L-Camshaft with welded lobes, and the crank then matches the L-Cam, firing order is as simple as swapping wires on the cap (or in the ECU).
Diverse firing orders aren't anything new to the Buick Guys. Internally/Externally Balanced engine would be the question I would ask---if the firing order changes it's usually for a reason...operating rpm, vibration harmonic, etc...
Why the order is different is worth exploring, making an L-Engine work with that crank setup is just a matter of having the lobes reground to match the crank configuration. And I doubt anybody doing this kind of swap wouldn't have a custom ground cam already...
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McFadden-Dale Hardware, 32nd Street, Phoenix... (I think)
They have a good selection of assorted fittings for just about any kind of tubing. Thing is, they are 'just' a hardware store. Any nut or bolt you want (metric) in stainless steel is in there as well...
Good Luck!
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My thoughts would be along the lines of #2 over #1, as the cool side is shorter; and #3 over #2 as overall length is shorter.
The differences you will see will be different based on the intercooler used in each case, as well. But you DO have a way to easure intake temps: Go to Omega.com and get some thermocouples...stick them in the piping and monitor with a recording multimeter. My Fluke 87 has "Min-Max" so charting max rises and drops is fairly easy. If you get a rotary switch and a readout, you can flip as you drive.
It's how the OEM's did it before all the fancy digital logging instrumentation came along. Heck, even reading millivolts directly off the thermocouple and then doing the conversion will work....
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And you get pyrotechnic commentary as well!
Those three were destined for the next 'desert shootout' with the boy...we don't shot up all the V-Dub cases before he turned 13... All we got now laying around are those Mag Fans...
Now they have a new lease on life, to the detriment of the Boy...But we will substitute other pyrotechnics (maybe 3" mortars) on the next outing...
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Unitrax in SoCal (Anaheim I believe) has set up JeffP's diffy, and it's still quiet after countless hours of full-on Dyno Passes, they also did John Coffee's Rusty Old Datsun Diffies (Quaifes)...
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Normally you would want to overfeed the mains with the booster to insure flooded inlets. I don't know the Z32NA Flow Rate at 3psi, but that is what you sohuld look at... chances are very good that it will have more than the fuel flow of the two mains at that inlet pressure. If you run those returns into the surge tank, it should really keep it topped off. You still should have one line return from the surge tank to the main tank in order to allow air to bleed off the top of the surge tank.
Some will use a Hobbs Pressure Switch at 3psi to light up a green/red LED or warning light to show if there is a problem with the boost-pump system (if the surge tank doesn't have at least 3psi, the light comes on) Some may go as far as to hook the main pump or an ECU permissive to that same style switch to drop the engine out should fuel flow become interrupted in any way.
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The conversions in a CNG vehicle are safer than a gasoline vehicle. They are DOT compliant for fuel system integrity far better than liquid-fuel vehicles. If you were to hit a CNG vehicle hard enough to dislodge the fuel storage tanks, or break them free from their lines in the vehicle, they each have their own 'blowout' valve that seals the tank...letting it skitter along the highway shooting sparks, whatever, with absolutely no fuel venting. Watching the testing was very illuminating...
What is the cost of E85 anyway? For around $4.50 I get 100 octane at the pump (VP Racing Fuel at the local Circle K, about 2 miles from my house)...
I'm not sure what it is for the Propane at the tank there, I know it's about $10 for a five gallon refill up the street, so they have to be in that area. Propane, at 115 octane has the 'liquid fuel' mileage advantage---that is you can put enough onboard to not have any mileage penalty compared to Gasoline. If you prepare the engine to take advantage of the added octane you get a VERY nice driveable vehicle. The 'powerless' conversions are universally converted standard gasoline engines. I know the Ford Modular 5.4 Triton has a special CNG part number, Forged Slugs, and 13:1 compression from Father Ford's Factory! Makes for a sleeper gasoline engine if you swap some cams and run racing gas.... But I digress.
I'm thinking Propane was 115 octane, and CNG was slightly higher at 120. And those are R+M/2 numbers---pump octane. They do run extremenly clean in both cases. The only downfall I see with LPG (propane) is that if you live where it can get to -40, you end up with insufficient tank pressure for the car to do high speed runs before warming up a bit, so you have some heat in the tank to keep up pressure. LPG's condensing point is somewhere around -40... CNG is cryogenic. It's like -345 or some ridiculous number. You can get that, usually at Bus Stations for Metro Use, or Trash Truck Maintenance Yards. Waste Management in SoCal uses LNG on some trucks, CNG on others. Sad to say, LNG will probably not make it to pedestrian vehicular usage simply because of NASA style refueling procedures. The...uhm...'unskilled laborers' at the SoCal Truck Fueling Stations for WMI had 'issues' comprehending proper fueling procedures. It IS a cryogenic liquid, after all, and there is a modicum of safety steps you should observe! Maybe language was part of the comprehension problem...
Lots of vehicles out there to snag surplus parts from, as well as buying new stuff.
And remember, CNG is renewable! We make it from trash... 1100btu's per CF... I forget what it's selling for at the station by my house, but it's around a buck lower than Gas...and that's simply an ethical marketing price cap---originally the pricing was supposed to be 20% less than gas or diesel simply as a large enough incentive for fleets and taxis to use it without subsidies (T. Boon Pickens is behind this initiative in many states...). There was finally a point with the price of gasoline pricing moving continually upward that the corporate heads said 'enough is enough' and they pretty much haven't raised prices in over 18 months. Hell, you can fuel at home with a slow-fill system off your home's Natural Gas Line for the equivalent of about .40 cents a gallon equivalent. You just pay with your motnhly utility bill...
CNG just makes the most sense in my book, since infrastructure exists to do it NOW, and the fueling at home really appeals to me.
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The fans on the 65-69 'vairs are made of magnesium.
They ignite when you shoot them three times in quick succession with steel-cored Chinese Surplus 7.62X39 Ammo from an SKS as well.
So do older AS41 Alloy VW cases.
I have THREE of those fans (Corvair) laying around doing nothing...if my Watanabe's didn't look so bitchen, I'd be tempted to make a go of installing them when I found a fourth...
That's a cool bit 'o trivia there. Gotta Love a Vette depending on a Vair to handle... LOL
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"Surges"---as in power delivery comes in surges, the engine makes an intermittent surging sound, or you think the compressor is stalling and actually reversing flow (surge)? If it's datalogged, you will tell right away what is happening.
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My kid found the glowing turbo on Jeff's car immensely entertaining!
My photos have some sort of chromatic shift, so his turbo (er, and those rear brake rotors from the run where he left the e-brake engaged...) look pink of all things.
Maybe JeffP is revealing something here: "The Pink Turbo Club"
LOL
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I never understood why they were called freeze plugs.
Ignorance, blinding, stifling ignorance!
It's like 'The Kings' English' and 'Street Vernacular'....
Once you have gotten used to being sloven about terminology, everything else falls downhill in quick order.
LOL
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Yes, the Bob Sharp Car did stay with the centrally-mounted T/B. That is a good photo of their setup.
The Q45 T/B has a throttle cable actuation, but it is linkaged to the throttle shaft through a VERY non-linear cam action. The first....probably 25-30% of throttle travel will only crack the throttle.
I will lay money the Q45 T/B will have better drivability characteristics than the 62mm unit JeffP currently has on his car.
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Actually, with all the whining I've been having to listen to about how 'high' gas prices are...this actually becomes a welcome change!
See, when I was a kid working minimum wage ($3.35) the gas price shot from .68 to $1.41 in about a month and a half. I didn't complain then, and FINALLY the minimum wage will 'catch up' to the same ratio it was back then in 1981. (The former highpoint in gasoline pricing all-time highs...) Figuring inflation alone, from 81 to now, that gas should be $3.25, and Minimum wage should be around $7.25. So hopefully will quash the minimum wage whiners carping about gas prices.
That's the highpoint for me...
As for the rest... meh! Here we go again... I should join a union so I get an Indexed Factor of Minimum Wage for my rate instead of salary... muahahahaha!
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what plug gap are you running at the miss? Also a 5 psi wg spring is REALLY soft for any kind of boost even with a boost controller.
.020 or thereabouts from what I saw.
Define "any kind of boost"... the numbers Jeff is making is with boost in double digit numbers that all begin with '1'...
17 psi was about the limit on the last set of runs that were complete and clean.
You got flow, you don't need Boost. I think Tim's boost level will suprise a lot of people as well, given the numbers he's punching out!
Tim, What EFI System are you using, and are those screenshots off the Tuning Utility it comes with?
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LOL!
"Autozone, the definitive cyclopeadic repository of automotive knowledge."
1)"I need a Drag Link for a 1964 Datsun Patrol, can you get one?"
Datsun? Who makes that? I don't see it on my computer...
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I'll give you a good reason they are called CORE PLUGS and NOTHING ELSE!
When you assemble the forms (cores) for the engine block for casting, the water jackets need to be supported. The ONLY way to do this, is to have those round holes from the inner, hollow parts of the engine block to the outside portion of the sand casting making up the outer portion of the block.
You see these holes in sand castings with inner passages that are closed from the outside.
If they are Freeze Plugs please, oh please those of you calling them that, and using anecdotal stories to support that incorrect terminology....tell me why OH WHY did Nissan see fit to install one of those "FREEZE PLUGS" in the END OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM WHICH ONLY EVER SEES AIR AND AIR ALONE?????
Could it be that the CORE of the plenum needed to be supported on BOTH ENDS---with one end being the T/B opening, and the CORE PLUG OPENING on the backside being the other?
Methinks so!
Game,
Set,
MATCH!
"CORE PLUGS"
Though I'm with BRAAP in the acceptance of "Welsh Plug, Soft Plug..." But never ever EVER "Freeze Plug"!
G Nose, rear lift?
in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Posted
Les Heath? This guy wasn't from West Virginia by any chance, was he?
I knew a Les heath when I was on Okinawa....
And yes, the G-Nose Headlight covers are expensive...