Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Wow Ron that's a lot of help. That looks a lot simpler than I thought. If that's for the earlier ones, then I guess the EFI Z's I've seen must have been S130's, because I remember there being a LOT more to it, and piles of vacuum hoses.
The only difference is that S130's after 81 had an O2 sensor.
Turbos had some more vacuum lines to operate some vaccum operated valves, but in Europe they had the same diagram as above! No O2 feedback, just plain programmed fueling.
People want to make it much harder than what it really is, and even to this day, when you distill it the componenets are still the same, even for standalones. if you understand the original Bosch System in the photo, you can understand them all, as the inputs don't change, only the way they process some of the signals (MAP versus AFM versus MAF for example. All do the same thing, just in a different way...)
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Makes me wonder why it is not the preferred way to do it.
Most pressure washers put out around 2 to 3.5 GPM of water at pressure.
Blast for 8 hours a day, 480 minutes, roughly 1000 gallons of water contaminated with grease, heavy metals, et al that must be treated before being sewered legally.
Opposed to recycled dry media that can be easily sifted and reprocessed, with the dry off-takings being legal to landfill with no treatment whatsoever.
This is similar to it being illegal to dump a gallon can of housepaint in a landfill, but open it dump it onto boards or mix it with sand and let it dry...then you CAN landfill it!
Liquid waste is a bugger to treat and legally work with. This is a preferred way for low-cost grafitti removal, and for home usage.
But for someone doing large scale stuff, it would get costly having to deal with 1000 gallons, per day, per workstation of sewerage and treatment costs. Figure most shops usually have four to eight guys working jobs at the same time...you can see those volumes add up quickly.
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Hell I've been driving on the left side of the road more than the right side of the road in my life.
Until I was almost 30, the same was true for me as well!
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Generally, Water to Air I/C's in gasoline engines will use a surge tank and dedicated water cooler, not the engine coolant. In this manner, the water acts like a heat sink for on-off-on boost situations. The thermal mass of the water soaks up the heat, and the water constantly circulates giving heat off to the air inbetween boost excursions. Bosch makes a nice pump (P/N 0 392 022 002) that works EXCELLENT in Water-to-Air exchanger to exchanger water transfer.
You can pick it up at most Ford Dealers stateside as well as Ford P/N M-8501-L54.
I figure with Frank being in Europe, he will probably be able to order Bosch Parts by their P/N easier than a Ford P/N. Pump uses standard AMP Timer connection (Bosch Standard EFI Fuel Injector Connector).
Body Parts ready, and Nino will be home next weekend, so I will have assistance loading the aforementioned parts into the container for shipping to Rotterdam...
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Yeah, post a photo, I know the basic piece you are talking about, but not the add-on gizmo. And since the link to the Yahoo Auction is dead in regards to a photo as far as I can see....welll I WANT TO SEE!
Besides, it will be one more thing to goad Priddy out of his money! LOL
"Hey Jeff, did you see that cool Gizmo Kameari has available for their cam chain tensioner?" Muahahahahaha!
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L20A, base model motor for the Japanese-spec cars.
Only available motor for Japanes Spec Cars after June of 1972...
Nothing but the L20A available till the S130 arrived in June of 1978...
(Save for the few recalled L26's that got out there, but that's not significant enough to even mention but for the fact someone may be pedantic enough to call me on it...)
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/Pet Peeve On Again/ Doesn't the oil pump drive spindle drop out the bottom on the L-Engine?
So drop the pump, remove the spindle, reinstall the pump and spin it to prime, charge the accumulator, drop the pump, reinstall the spindle and pump loosing prime to the pump again....
I mean, on a Chevy it's a piece of cake 'cause it comes out the top, but on the Datsun IMO its a bit PITA. /Pet Peeve Off/
Removing the plugs and cranking may be counterproductive to what you want to accomplish but here is another idea:
What we had made up overseas was an old Air Rechargable Water Fire Extinguisher. We would prefill the appropriate oil into the thing, pressurize it with air, hook the discharge hose to a fitting on the oil system. To discharge it you simply pushed down on the valve, priming the engine.
We did NOT prefill the sump, we put say 5 quarts of oil into the thing, and then filled the sump through pressurizing the oil stem through the oil pressure sender. This gave us plenty of prelube, including to the top end, as well as fully charging the engine's oil pan with the service amount of lubricant...
Then it's a matter of starting the engine, and activating the Accusump to get charged. You could do it while filling as above, just add more to the fire extinguisher.
Really, any pressure vessel with an easy open top and bottom suction hose for discharge would work. You could use one of those Harbor Freight Fluid Transfer Pumps and siphon it out of the oil cans, or a bucket and pressurize it externally that way as well.
Whatever you do, DON'T screw with the precharge on the Accusump! They are charged with dry nitrogen to prevent corrosion. If you fill with regular compressed air, the internal components likely will have moisture put to them and corrode in time.
If you can't find a small pump, your only alternative may be to simply crank the engine with the plugs out, or do as suggested above and drop the pump, make a spindle tool, and go through the whole rigamarole...
Cheers!
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57 Vs 50" huh?
Maybe just the driveline will go in then...muahahaha!
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Does one add lube to the regulator and then distribute it through the system?
Is the fact that the first one can go up to 160 lbs and the others only to 125 of any consequence?
Is there a difference between the one canister style and the two canister style?
Is it necessary to use the regulator on an HVLP gun if you have a regulator at the compressor? Why couldn't you just turn the main regulator to 40 lbs?
Of the choices above, does anyone have a preference? Are they all junk? Is there something better I should buy instead?
1) Correct, adding lube to the lines is bad. Most shops have a 'Dry Line' and a 'Lubed Line'---even going so far as to use different color hoses for each. I have YELLOW hoses I use on Oiled lines (get it, yellow for the color of oil?) and BLUE lines that are NOT TO BE USED WITH OIL (get it, blue for pure air?)
IMO, you are best plumbing your whole system as "Dry" and adding FRL (Filter/Regulator/Lubricators) at points where you will add the hose for the tool. I have set up people's home systems with large Q-D's on the tank, and then hook up either a Lube setup when they are using tools, or a non lube setup with a dryer and filter when they are painting. Definately do something to keep oil out of your air lines that you will be painting with.
2) Not really, but the ability of the regulator to flow what you need is more important. I usually set up the regulator at the tank out of the side fitting with a regulator that is 3/4" in pipe size, from this I usually put a coalescing filter to knock out any moisture that may migrate out of the tank, to a series of valved "T's" in manifold form from the Stainless Steel Section at Home Depot. You regulate down at the tank to 120 or even 100psi, and the standard 125psi fittings are fine to use---do not use BIP, Carbon Steel, or anything that corrodes! From the "T's Manifold" since each take off is valved, you can hook up smaller, point of use regulators to drop the line pressure to your gun or tool as needed. The key is to keep the high pressure air in the tank where you can easily control leaks. After that point, using properly sized air lines you can easily run 100 psi out to them and have sufficient flow to drive most anything. And anything that does leak is leaking at a reduced pressure, minimizing losses.
3) I'll come back to this one in an edit. The single cannsiter unit is simply a filter/dryer cartridge---I would use this on the PAINTING lines. I have that exact same filter regulator unit and have had it since 1985 - 86 when I originally started painting my Z overseas. This is a unit to use on the YELLOW lines. The 'two cannister' units are FRL's (Filter, Regulator, Lubricator) and would b e used when you are running air tools. The 1/2" size Orange unit would be the one I'd buy, and then bush down for whatever pipe or hose size Q-D you decide on using. The reason being is the lubricator bowl is bigger, and the bigger it is, the more oil you have to go through before refilling it. Also, since the filter is larger in surface area, it will go longer picking up swarf from your system without getting clogged. Additionally, a larger filter housing (oversized in relation to actual flow) will actually slow down the air quite abit, and allow more moisture to coalesce out and be trapped by the filter element. Kaeser uses this fact to their advantage by selling people oil flooded screw units fitted with humongous filters that need changing every five years---but the surface velocity across the media is so low that there is minimal pressure drop and filtration efficiency is sky high wen dealing with oils and aerosols to drop out---they market it as an 'oil free package'. Just because they have a lubricator on it doesn't mean you need to install it! I have just used the filter and regulator section---it's not like they are expensive, so letting them sit till you need them elsewhere in the system is not a biggie. The last regulator is trash, and simply a restriction in the line, it only regulates when the line is flowing---and is a stopgap against not properly regulating the flexible line pressure at point of hookup to the distribution system. People do this all the time, run a higher line pressure becuase they are using components that are too small to begin with! Size stuff correctly and you will never need one of those.
4) As I said above, you could do that, but then you are going back to the big regulator and constantly adjusting it for the tools you have with different pressures. If you have a Big Reg to drop it from storage pressure to close to maximum point of use pressure (say 100psi) then each of your manifolded lines could be set to different pressures. 45 for the HVLP on a Blue Hose to your gun, and 90 through an FRL on a Yellow Line to your air ratchet or impact. The key thing to remember with regulation is to regulate as close to point of use as possible---that way the high pressure air is there in the line for flow demands on startup.
5) I'll come back to this one in an edit as well, but generally the smaller point of use regulators are throwaway, so those I get anywhere. For the large one on the tank, as well as it's filter/coalescer I go with a brand name like Arrow Pneumatics, Ingersoll-Rand, Dominick-Hunter, Harrison, etc etc etc... you can ee above the only one I wouldn't use is the last one---properly regulate and use the correct size lines (3/8" minimum for most everything to minimize frictional losses) and there will be no need for that last abortion! I have the Brown Regulator on my wife's "Tire Compressor" which she also uses for the staple guns nail guns, and blowing up of balloons for the kiddies when they come over. The Orange one I use off my Devilbiss simply because it was easier to get than the Arrow Pneumatic one I wanted but was out of stock at the time... Laziness plays into many of my decisions, you see.
What you may seriously want to consider is the refrigerated air dryer they sell, if you will be doing a lot of painting and are in a humid location (it never rains in Seattle, does it? LOL) the amount of moisture it will knock out will greatly help with paint quality. It will also decrease the moisture you get from your ratchets and impact guns when using them for extended periods (die grinder also comes to mind) Nice not to have wetness blowing all over the work... It will effectively give you a 35 degree dewpoint, so as long as you are working in 50-60 degree weather you should never have an issue with water in your air lines. But that may take some more setup on your part---generally when someone buys a dryer, I tell them to find an old compressor tank and run some air through the dryer, to the second tank (wet receiver and dry receiver)---this way you can blow off things like the floor with the wet tank, and use the dried air for tools and etc. Dry air makes for happy tools! And better paint jobs.
Gee, you would think I work with compressors or something, huh? Have I talked to you about plumbing your garage with copepr hard piping and multiple hose barbs with quick disconnects? (Tim Allen Voice) Arr Arrr Arrrr!
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I envy you. I miss Okinawa. I lived there for 5 Years, and have missed it since I left.
Safe journey, for both your car and you!
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The IMPCO systems and the Ford CNG/Propane-LPG systems all are vapor injection. They have fuel rail pressures in the range of 100 psi. Standard Bosch Style injectors used to flow on the average of around 1100CC/min fluid equivalent. Basically that's the difference, the flow because of gasseous versus liquid fuel. This is how GM makes the switchover, they flip a switch and you are running on gasoline but at way reduced spark timing and your idle quality generally degrades (imagine the idle quality for a 1000cc/min petrol injector!)
The pros/cons come to fuel availability in your area, and BTU content of the gas. CNG has 1K BTU per CF, Propane something like 800 (if I recall correctly, feel free to correct me).
So for a given cubic foot of volume, you will need around 28 CF of CNG to equal the content of one gallon of gasoline, and about 20% more propane/lpg.
Where LPG/Propane shines is the fact that you can easily liquefy it, and store it in liquid form onboard...allowing a MUCH longer driving range than with gasseous fueled high pressure storage systems (CNG is stored onboard in cylinders at between 2400 and 3600psig---temperature compensated).
You could get LNG (Liquid Natural Gas) but it's cryogenic temperatures, hundreds of degrees below zero, like LN2 or LOX. Not consumer friendly---but you will be amazed how many city busses and garbage trucks run LNG simply because they can go comparable distances as a Diesel Powered Counterpart.
Really, Propane is really nice as a fuel, but if you live where it's cold, you need alternative fuel to start and get the vaporizer/tank heater going. At -30 or -40 the pressure in the tank may be too low for EFI to work properly. In extreme cases (remember I did the carb conversions in the 70's and 80's) the 3-5psi for carburettors could not even be obtained during winter, so they HAD to have a gasoline fuel option just to get it started and running! Same for my Alcohol Setup...wouldn't run when cold...bummer!
One of the nice things is that CNG and Propane UNLIKE Biodiesel and recycled Vegtable Oil is currently EXEMPT from most taxes, so there's little chance of engine up owing someone back taxes for an illegal conversion (read about the green tree hugger in Berkley who just got nailed by the Feds for running vegetable oil in his Mercedes? $2500 Fine for not paying ROAD TAXES on a diesel fuel! And they reported him to the State, who nailed him as well! Running on vegetable oil is best done WITHOUT a "Ask me how I run my car on 100% recycled Vegetable Oil" Bumper Sticker---which is what got him nailed in the first place! Guy was paying 35% more for Vegetable oil from the store thinking he was doing a good thing for the planet, and the government nailed him on Tax Evasion... just like Capone! BWAHAHAHAHAHA!)
I, er....Digress...
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The LD28T has basically the same T3 that is on the gas engines, but with a .43 A/R on the turbine end...
One of the older Datsun Modification books shows a 280Z with a Turbodiesel in it that was pumped to 180HP---which would be relatively comparable to a very strong stock petrol engine. This is why I wanted the Diesel Option in the Frontier. The 3.0 ZDI Turbodiesel has 170 HP (same as my Y2K Frontier's VG33) but has 280 Ft-Lbs of torque... In a truck, I don't need HP, I need TORQUE!
Man, that 3.0 ZDI setup would tow my trailer perfectly... and with much less drama than the VG33 in there now...
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With a screen name like nakagusukumike, are you going home Okinawa, or other island?
I spent many a day flying and drifting up the road to the top of the hill where Nakagusuku was, and down the other side to Goya Tunings little Dyno Shop...and then down the highway to the Scrap Yards where engines were sold by wieght, and not avarice! LOL
On the Gasoline Note, if you are pissing fuel out the weep hole, your diaphragm is torn, REPLACE THE PUMP! I almost lost my VW to a torn diaphragm, don't loose your ride for similar issues! That diaphragm will continue leaking, and the gas will force it's way somewhere it's not supposed to be---usually with catastrophic consequences!
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Keep in mind, CNG conversions are subsidized in many states and through the Federal Government.
You might be looking at Tax Credits for some of the costs associated with converting your vehicle!
I would make the Greenies scream 'foul' but hey, that's what we're here for, right?
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oooh, my wife looked over my shoulder and said "I like that interior, why don't you put one like that in the 2+2?"
And thusly, it begins...
though that wrecked Z32 sitting out back for free kind of has a better, more attractive price attached to it. Anybody ever see a Z32 dash in an S30?
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Hey, flat panels work...and are light!
No panels would be even better, but my wife likes the armrests and not getting grease on her blouse from the window mechanisim when there isn't a panel there...
So flat is where it's at for me!
LOL
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O.K. you got the cost of wiring less than the cost of the welder (just enough!) so I don't feel so bad now!
Heck, I even know where there is a Graybar I can stop in and check prices locally as well...
Thanks!
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Well, with Alan's Posted Photos now others can see why I have been so 'down' on US Knockoff G-Noses. They all seem half the thickness of the cheaper JDM stuff, and if you get a GOOD JDM replica, they are as Alan has shown---near exact in every respect. And the parts they cut out for making a 'cheaper' nose are the things that really affect the aero as we have now seen. I have the exact same lower section hanging in one of my Conex Containers, as well as the left headlight bucket---which I bought out of a Junkyard off a car that had a mishap with a truck...running under the axle to be specific. Paid a whole 450 yen for the two pieces because it was 'incomplete'---the same price I ended up getting my JDM One-Piece for at another yard with slight cracks from parking bumps. Worth every yen!
And the new replicas from Japan are making me seriously consider a trip just to save on the shipping costs! I am unhappy with current offerings on this side of the pond to this date.
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So you have an idea. I have my BOV set soft enough that it will open just a little on an idle rev (felt with my finger on the valve). Even that soft it has no problem holding 30 psi.
The old Cartech compressor bypass valve would hold 20psi no problem and lifted fully and completely at any lift of throttle giving a 'sigh' sound and not the current-rage psh-h-h-t-t-t!
Like Clifton said, it would hold anything I threw at it, and lifted even when at idle. Matter of fact, at idle, under vacuum, it was OPEN. Let air bypass the turbo directly to the plenum (throttle plates downstream of the plenum on this application) helping spool even more by letting the turbine spin up without all the air load on it in the first place.
First hint of boost, and that valve slammed shut, and stayed shut till I lifted my foot.
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Somewhere, out in the shed, is a Turbo with all the guts taken out of it. A nice Plug in the center where the turbine-compressor shaft foremerly resided.
Bought an 83 ZXT and was running it around the backyard trying to get boost out of it, just couldn't.
Finally when I cut up the car (ZX's make such great driveline donors...) and got to removing the turbo rubber boot to the AFM, I realized the drain line was plugged, the oil feed line had been vicegripped closed, and that the turbo was indeed, EMPTY!
I kept it around just because.
But the car ran flawlessly through a gutted turbo housing. I'd go with the 'wire the wastegate open' and just run the thing without too much more fiddling.
And YES, you can run a Megasquirt without a CAS. If you run MS only, simply stick a N/A distributor in there, and run it like that. If not, lock the advance mechanisims of the dizzy, and use IT as your CAS---it only need a signal. Where it gets it from is VERY flexible.
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Cygnus stole my thunder, my first thought was 'why three conductor cable'---conduit and single wires is cheaper.
When I was in the USAF the Aircraft Ground Power Cables were several large conductors, and we would band them with heavy shrink tubing every two or three feet. That kept it all fairly organized and untwisted. Make your own SO Cord for the TIG, and then you can move it around from a permanently-connected wall box disconnect.
My Compressor is like that. I have a 50 Amp Rated SO Cord, of about 50 feet that hangs on a hook banded to the Vertical Tank, mounted to the base is a caster setup so I can roll the compressor out of the way, and up to 50 feet from the socket. Add to that a 100 foot roller hose, and a separate 30 gallon tank capable of running another 50 foot hose.... And I can get to most stuff in the front yard. If I only had the concrete to do it now...
Working on it.
Sounds like I really made a mistake not buying my TIG Machine's wiring when I got it two years ago (Hobart Cybertig 300Amp) Sounds like the cable will be more than my machine cost me!
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300 mph is a tall order for a brick. Rarefied company to be sure. I'll be hoping I'm on the flats to see it run.
You know there are fewer than 450 200 MPH Club Members at Bonneville, but there are over 650 people in the "I climbed Mount Everest" reunion last year? Both clubs have been extant for roughly the same time.
300mph is also even more rare. Especially if you are required to break a record there. not simply go a minim speed of 200 or 300mph. You got to break an existing record...which means since all classes are displacement indexed, it becomes harder and harder to get 'into the club'---as opposed to Climbing Everest, which has become a footrace to see who can do it the fastest...pish posh! I greive for Sir Edmund's Legacy. He did it with stone knives and bearskins...not Gore-Tex and Lightweight Oxygen Cannulas...
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Oil Cooler? If your oil cooler is thermostatically controlled then no. If it is an 'all through' cooler, cooling everything it is a BAD thing!
I have said this many times before: Water temperature is a VERY POOR indicator for what is going on in the engine. It has a lot of specific heat and really slowly responds.
Water temperatures were usually set (in the old days) to keep oil temperatures around 180 degrees of hotter.
Monitor oil temperature, and regulate it with a thermostatic valve to 180 or higher.
Let the water run as cool as it is. If you really have a 180 degree thermostat it's closed, and you are simply recirculating coolant in the block, and through the bypass hose. It doesn't start to crack till 175-180, and isn't fully opened till at least 10 degrees above that.
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Curiously, it is strange they would cut costs on diaphragm used. Doing a flat diaphragm when the rolling hat style is in the original style is ludicrous!
I can state for the record, a flat diaphragm is NOT designed for a long-stroke actuator. That means less valve lift.
Atlas Copco used a rolling diaphragm of about 6" diameter in their loading valve, and when they redesigned for a flat diaphragm doing the EXACT same job, they went to almost 18" diameter to get the same piston travel.
The only thing I would do if I bought a Greddy Valve is disassemble it, and greas the heck out of the rolling diaphragm with the old tube of Atlas Copco Graphite Grease I still have laying around. That stuff greatly increases the lifespan of that particular style of rolling diaphragm. Talcum Powder is another good idea. The diaphragm will roll on itself and expose/fray the reinforcing strands, eventually leading to failure---which is why they went to the flat style like they'd used in their smaller, cheaper machines for years.
To fully disclose, I am a pirate. Yes, I left Atlas Copco to work for a competitior who now manufactures their own line of parts for the Atlas Copco machine. I was instrumental in quality control and making sure our stuff in the beginning was up to snuff so we could really do damage to their aftermarket parts sales....not give me a raise, eh? We'll see who's worth what...
I digress...
Sayonara HybridZ
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Ernie, reconsider. Make a file in your e-mail basket called "Hate Mail" and get familiar with "Block Sender"---the expertise you impart is far more important to more people than the few who whine and throw stones.
I really like people who think ANY idea is 'stolen'---any artist will freely admit they stole any of their ideas from someone else (if they are honest)---people who think they have a truly original idea usually are ignorant of the truith surrounding the subject.
Anyway, I say this as someone who (on another forum) has had concerted efforts to 'make me go away'---i.e. three or four guys filling my e-mail box daily with 3-400 mails to drive me away. I did leave 'there' for about a month so the kiddies would go back to school, and when they came back at christmas break, guess what, I had been there all along.
Don't let the bastards grind you down. Don't give it up. Stay for the help you know you can give, and 'block sender' with vigor after making an appropriate comment in kind....
Muahahahaha!
Tony D, still at "The Other Place" with over 20K posts.... Much to the haters chagrin. Like Syphillis, you can't get rid of me THAT easily! I'm the bunghole resistant version! LOL
So should you be!