Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
Read and understand the instructions of the harness manufacturer. If you are in SoCal, take the time to drive up to Glendale, and buy a set of harnesses from Jim Deist. The instructions are very clear, and you can ask the man himself about any concerns you have.
If I lived in Texas, I would probably go to Impact PArts, and buy something off Bill Simpson. When you can talk to the man who makes it, there is not a single reason you can't have all the questions answered.
As an aside, Dave and I both can feel Svelte when talking with Jim Deist. LOL
Take a look at various sanctioning bodies rulebooks for rollbar/harness mounting ideas. Many copy manufacturers information, it really doesn't vary much from companyn to company. The LAST thing you want to do is anchor those shoulder harnesses on the floor behind the driver---TOTALLY useless.
Lets' not turn anyone here into the next "Dale Earnhardt" because the 'feel' of the harness isn't right---there is an engineering reason you need to anchor the belts the way the manufacturer recommends.
-
LOL, yeah, that guy had way to much time on his hands... (he he he!)
Scalloped the fuel rail as well!
I want a photo of the combustion chambers---I hear good things...
-
Some strange facts from the Air Cooled World:
Long has the time been that Corvair People paint the top half of the pushrods (under the head) with white ceramic based paint to reduce oil temperatures. I thought "B.S." but damned if I didn't notice the Finch-Claimed 10-15 Degree reduction in oil temperatures. Did the same thing on my VW, and sure enough, same / similar reduction, though for some reason the VW guys aren't into painting their pushrod tubes like the Corvair guys are...probably has something to do with a properly designed VW oil cooling system compared to the Corvair...
Similarly, Gene Berg was big on lightly painting, or having the case anodized flat black for heat reduction. Similar kind of oil temperature reduction. Milspec Anodizing somehow helps in the transfer/emissivity of Aluminum Cases. Another strange one because HP VW guys do the case Painting/Anodizing on an Aluminum/Magnesium AS41 Casing----while the Corvair Guys with a real Aluminum Alloy case don't.
As for Techline Coatings, they are about 20 minutes from the house, and a division of our company uses their abradable coatings in rebuilding Lysholm Screw Compressor Elements, as well as some 'side work' dealing with the Project Manager's Nova... Probably one of my Manifolds will get done there some time in the future (our shop) as they have all the facilities to properly apply the Techline Stuff, and the offer has been made to 'send in whatever you want coated'---terrible when you have a fellow who is a gearhead, and has access to production coating equipment ! LOL
-
I'm going to throw out something as well:
We are currently running an L20A Six, using L20B rods. Something like 145mm length... But they are stock Nissan Rods from two different 720 Trucks (if I recall) weight matched, and prepped.
This engine is running an offset ground (destroked slightly) L20A crankshaft and makes peak power at 8750rpms. Dyno pulls have been done to 9500 rpms for evaluation of the assembly.
For some applications (N/A Particularly) doing rods may be a bit of overkill unless, as Braap stated, you want some 540 Gram Merchart Investment-Cast Lightweight assemblies to absolutely minimize the weight of the rotating / reciprocating assembly. And like he mentioned, then you cut down the counterweights, use Mallory Metal (Tungsten) to balance the thing with the shorter counterweight throws... etc etc etc...
Assembly care makes more of a difference when using comparable pieces than anything else under the sun. There is a reason a Nissan engine lasts for 200K+ Miles, and makes 120 hp. And there is a reason that same engine, when assembled to ITS Specification makes 208 hp, and lasts only slightly less... Attention to the small details. Same parts, just attention to every stinking little detail under the sun. Chamfer on the oil holes, deburring oil pump gears and drive spindles, polished bearing areas, etc.
Details are much more important in the end for longterm durability than which quality parts you use. Any of the quality manufacturers will have a good part, details and attention to them will determine total power output and longevity far more than the difference between Tier-1 Manufacturer "A" and Manufacturer "B".
And when that L20A lets go...well the L28 Shortblock is ready to go back together and we can go back to "F" class to bump our own records some more. But for now, we shall seeeeeee how long a stock rodded, stock cranked, stock blocked L20A will last twisting to 9000+ rpms.
I got to find a place to host the Helmet Cam Videos from last weekend....muahahahahaa!
-
I was recently under a Hybrid Z and noticed 'Made in India' on one of the motor mounts.
Now I am not casting aspersions, but I have dealt with stuff my company has sourced there, and for some reason the durometer of the rubber used was not up to spec with the OEM we were knocking off (a competitior) so the Aftermarket stuff we made just tore apart under load.
This may be the case there, I don't know where MSA sources their motor mounts, but for some stuff I go OEM. For the cost of a motor mount, I would probably go OEM, or at least put a limiting chain on the engine to the unit-body. Even with stock OEM Chevy mounts, a good hook can rip a mount in short order. My old 67 Shortbed pickup did it regularly enough that I gave up and just chained the damn thing down in perpituity...
The Urethane Mounts transfer some noise, but in my experience are much more durable, and not nearly as harsh as Solid Aluminim Units.
-
Tec 2, Replaced with ECU-882
SDS Fuel Only
Hacked GM TBI...
I am diseased! LOL
-
-
Talk to JeffP about dwell and toasting Coils. He found the section in the Z31 code that adjusts dwell, and he started dicking with it to get rid of a misfire at 17psi... Poof! New coil time.
Back to square one.
Believe you me, he hears no end of it from me! LOL
-
I have seen re-engineered mounts that utilize the Moustache Bar Urethane Bushings (where the bar mounts to the body) as Engine mounts. Captive bolt system, very sanitary, the mounts I saw.
Kind of negated the need for a reaction bar to brace the engine from rocking as well.
-
I wonder if Keith followed the R230 conversion thread, since the Armada has an optional 2.72 R230 available?
Keith, if you see this, e-mail me again, I somehow flushed your e-mail addy, and I got this terrible feeling I owe you some photos from the Rochester Convention---particularly of your Diesel Z kicking it around the Auto-X course. I am a witness, it kicked butt that day for sure!!!
-
"You stated PVC was a bad idea in this application due to it breaking down from oil?"
Your facts are not straight.
PVC is not suitable for Air Compressor Lines due to some synthetic oils causing degredation of the piping and resultant burst-strength reduction, but as an oil-free (and give the look of that engine bay, I HIGHLY doubt he's using synthetic) turbine discharge pipe, heat will become more of an issue than burst strength reduction. What I said in no way endorses the engineering of the project, nor does it detract from it's effort.
If he's only boosting 2-3 psi, the heat may even be within the piping's rating, and even up to 10-12psi is should work if he has the 300 F rated hot water piping (usually cream colored)...
Key word here is "work"---I have made a considerable distinction between people making claims of things 'working' and things being done correctly. There usually exists a considerable gap amongst people who will settle for 'works' and those who want something produced 'correctly'.
In this case, given the fence post piping, PVC solvent welded nature of the photo, I can say nothing other than what I posted: "I love it!"
I made no technical commentary whatsoever on the design, nor did I intend to---I'll leave stonethrowing on this one to others...
-
There is a telescoping shaft that came on many cars that will accomodate both setups simply by moving the arm in or out of the piece bolted to the firewall. It's what I have on mine...I think it came from a later 280Z.
-
Oh, the Lysholm Screw is far superior to the Roots Blowers. A division of the company I work for reuilds industrial compressor elements, including Roots and Lysholm Screw units---the project engineer formerly had a company that did custom blower work for NHRA teams. Yeah, whenever I go there it's always two things: "How is the race car?" and "When will you come work for me?"
Buffalo is a damsite colder than SoCal in Febuary, and a far longer drive to Bonneville....but the working perks would start to pay dividends I think...
-
-
Oh, since Frank 280ZX is sitting across the living room from me right now going "where is the guy?" I suspect his laptop will be blazing away an answer, if he hasn't already hit it up!
Flying home Monday....
-
That would really piss off the SCCA who would yet again have to shift the Zs into a tougher class OR add a rule outlawing aero modifications of the types we employ.
Nothing is as satisfying as being protested and having your modifications banned because it makes your old POS spank the crap out of something 30 years newer, and 30X as expensive...
We lost a Bonneville record because the former record holder was upset we broke his record by 14mph, in a "Fuel" class, running standard gasoline. The stewardt's decision is final, and we had the record pulled because we didn't have 'enough modifications or power adders to enter the class'...
Hehehehehehe....
-
Oh yeah, now I find this after making 8 trips to Compton/Watts in two days to haul back 240s...
Hmmmmmm. My wife would shoot me as the 6" Atlas I have is still packed in the box after the last move... And my eye is on a 12" Atlas in Orange...
Hmmmmmmmmm...
-
You were right, Derek! I stumbled across a small foundry in Costa Mesa that was agreeable to do the pours if I can supply decent forms or cores. So my job just got a bit easier as well! Thanks for that suggestion on finding one---strange thing was I found it looking at a Citroen DS, that revealed three Renault R5 Turbos, a Twin Turbo Motec'd Diablo, and an LT-1 conversion in progress on a Ferrari 412...as well as a complete 510 Racer that was up for sale. While looking at the 510, they started knocking out sand, and it was like "Oh, hey, that's a short-run foundry!" Right there, passed it countless times but never ventured to the back of the complex to check anything out. But that DS was calling me....LOL
-
Damn, that dyno chart looks almost like JeffP's dyno chart from last Thursday---just lower on the scale.
I couldn't convince him to run a pull from 1500 in fourth gear for a true dispelling of the 'turbos have a non-linear response' myth, but the curve looks very much like yours, Jeff!
My kid loved the rides in your car at the Auto-X BTW. He now understands why Frank and all of us call the 260 'The Blue Turd, A.K.A. The Wallowing Pig'!
LOL
-
-
WHY in the world don't you simply tap the lower section of the manifold and install the PCV? That's what I did on several cars. If you have the turbo manifold around when you do the swap, it makes a nice template for locating the hole. Failing that, you can stick the PCV in the stock turbo PCV Hose and kind of line it up to where it needs to go.
BTW, under boost, PCV is provided by the turbine inlet suction and the differential across the air filter... The normal plenum PCV is acting as a check-valve preventing boost from blowing directly into the crankcase.
If you have excess pressure after making the modifications, more than likely it's 'ring time'... as well as 'ring land time'...
-
The Bellville Washers arrived today with the UPS guy. Each package has the supplier's name and phone number, as well as a part number.
If anybody overseas wants to follow up to see if these people will ship directly to you, have at it! Here is the information from the package:
GARDNER SPRING
1-800-331-3263
MB1250-062
Bellevelle Disc Spring
Package Qty: 12
1.250 x 0.0630 x 0.062
Good Luck, keep us posted!
And the boost solenoids shipped the 27th to my place, slated for delivery on the 3rd, Xander. Yesterday while harvesting pulleys from the GM section of the PYP in Pedley, I got 5 each of the GM connectors from the washer reservoirs for you as well. Couldn't remember if it was the sensor or the washer pump motor connector, so I snagged 'em both.
-
The Gnose was a big dissapointment(for those who like the looks). No discernable benefit for all that $$$ weight hung off the far front end. Of course we hadn't figured out how effective sealing the radiator to the inlet was when we blew it. We might have made some improvements but it was pretty well sealed as installed.
Yeah, was this one of the 'good' replicas with the undertray that sealed to the radiator core? i have seen some where I have had to make a tray over 10" wide to even come close to what the Nissan Made G-Noses did...
And was that with or without headlight covers?
I saw something from Fedex Tracking coming my way from Charlotte, arriving on the 3rd---did you guys send me a package?
Interesting results, especially about the Type 3. Good job! Thanks!
OH, and this datum came out JUST IN TIME! The car is going up to El Mirage for the season opener this weekend, and the radiator sealing results will come in handy... I will be discussing changing the undertray from our Non-OEM G-Nose to my OEM unit from Japan with the larger tray. We already knew blocking the radiator inlet increased the top speed quite a bit, now it is confirmed empirically. GREAT JOB! And again: THANKS A MILLION GUYS!
-
Well, made an order and we are heading over to McMaster Carr right now for Frank to pick up his (and by proxy, Xander's) 12 packs of Bellville Washer Springs. The cost for a package of 12 is $7.46. Picking up 5 packages, so Frank and Xander can screw it up a few times, before having to call me for replacements! LOL
Well, we'll head there after going to the dyno. But in the grand scope of things, they will be acquired.
eurethane engine mounts
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Only 11 hours? That explains how you have som much time for the Z-Work!
LOL
"I got plenty of time to sleep when I'm dead, boy, just hand me the damn wrench!" Overheard Trackside Commentary