Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
LPG (Propane) is the fuel of choice and legislation at the Speed Zone in Hacienda Heights. These are small Propane Powered Dragsters...V8 Powered, over the valve cover headers and mufflers. They have a standard sportsman tree for launch, and in about 100 feet do zero to 60 in around 3 seconds.
Propane Powered....
Now as to the smell...my CNG Catalyzed vehicle smelled like steam. That's it. Steam. You have to understand that adulterants and refining byproducts in Gasoline make for a lot of the smell...sulfur mostly. That gives you the rotten egg smell.
Forklifts are (if they are older) usually carburetted, and not fuel injected like newer ones. The newer fuel injected LPG forklifts are so safe OSHA lets you use them indoors. If you are smelling something, it's something along for the ride, or simply a carburetted truck running way rich (which they tend to do!)
The old days of carburetted systems are thankfully gone. The advantage Propane has over CNG is that you can get MASSIVE range---comparable to gasoline. As stated the standard LPG tanks are all over in Japan. A 60L Donut tank would be MORE than enough to get comparable range as a petrol version.
CNG range will probably be half that...5 or 6 GGE is my guess with the smaller 3600psi tanks mounted below a flattened floorboard (no spare tire).
Think about it: a 10:1 CR Turbocharged Engine...
Think about it.....
-
sparks280, mounting to the rearend could jerk your rear out of adjustment.
Some shackle bolt failures, or some spherical joints being loaded backwards and at enough speed, I could see the rear axle stopping....while the car continued for quite a distance after deployment...
Having been in a vehicle that experienced a leaf spring failure under load....I would not consider the pumpkin a place to mount significant arresting force. Note the differential pictured is not the typical setup as there are rods for compression against the rear of the chassis---most differentials are mounted front-to-back with the compression members for under loading frrom acceleration---this one has extra rods to counteract compression under arresting force. At most, people run a panhard bar across the rear of the axle, and I've seen those bend quite abit when something let loose and the axle started walking around on it's own.
I believe the 236 car has the pushbar (where it appears his chute is attached, or close by) integrated into his cage. I didn't post the interior photos of the car on Cardomain...I will have to see where they a re archived and see if I took specific photos of the Chute Mount. Cage or Frame would be my first choice.
-
Not the best photos of the #236 Car, but what I could find on short notice and not having access to my archived drive at home!
This is after he got the thing painted---the earlier photos were from some time ago. I wonder what it would do in the wind tunnel...
You can see he's activated the chute in this photo, the black almost directly underneath the first red balloon behind the car is the chute just before deployment. Red Balloons are marking the end of the timing traps, and you shut down and pull your chute, and hang on!
-
You don't need to go to that extent. A clean workbench covered with fresh newspaper. Plenty of paper towels. Clean and dry compressed air.
Patience, take your time!
So let me get this straight, this is Z-Ya's proposal to get you out of the closet? How romantic!
Snarfk!
-
It was my understanding that the rod bolts in the L-Series were Torque To Yield. In fact, now going and digging up the "How To Modify" booklet, they are advocating NOT torquing them, but torquing them using a rod bolt stratch gauge, and not reusing them.
I believe the stock torque was at the fringes of TTY, and that for racing they 'did it right' in order to maximize the clamping force at the expense of not being able to re-use the rod bolts (which are cheap anyway). This is probably part of the impetus behind the Chevy Rod Bolt Modification.
My case, I chuck the stock rod bolts, and put in the ARP's...they are cheap insurance, and then I don't have to worry about them letting go.
The Studs are more convienient for racing engines that are refreshed more often. And by sinking the threads of the stud in the block you prevent the kind of repetitive deformation of the cast threads that causes them to weaken and fail later on. With a stud, you stick it in there, and the NUT is the deformable portion---at most you replace some nuts, maybe the errant stud or two...but the fragile cast threads in the block get properly stressed, lock down on the stud, and stay that way. More consistent pull-down.
But overkill for the street on non-turbo engines IMO.
-
And of course, Zcar.com is the best site... for "them".
LOL
There they have recently removed the red 'search before you post' next to the post button.
BIG mistake!
LOL
-
Our Bonneville car is a 280Z and has stopped countless runs from 170 mph+ with absolutely no distortion to anything...but that is a 'lift the car by the bumper' 280Z rear bumper!
For a 240, mounting a special set of brackets from the cage might be a way to go---seems that the rearend would be a bit low for my tastes...
I'll see if I can pick out some photos of the guy with the Twin Turbo SBC Hillborn Injected 240 and see if there are any good shots of his chute setup. He runs at El Mirage, car number 742. I think, now that I am thinking....car 286 has a chute too, I believe he's running a 380CID Chev in his chopped 240 as well.
Let me see what I can find.
-
CNG, thorough the home-filling option costs around 40 cents a gallon for the equivalent energy (about 28cfm of CNG for the same BTU input of a gallon of gasoline). Commercial CNG is available from anywhere from 80 cents a GGE (Gas Gallon Equivalent) to around a 20% discount over local Petrol Prices---the cost of the CNG is dirt, really, anything over compression costs is pure profit for the vendors. Some make more than others.
As for "I hope it doesn't drive like propane"---you mean a converted Gasoline to Propane Conversion. Dedicated Propane and / or CNG vehicles SMOKE Petrol engines. My F250SD Pickup had as much torque with CNG as my old F350SD 7.3L Powerstroke Turbo did! Climbed Palomar Grade on I15 easily---the petrol truck had to drop out of Overdrive to keep up with traffic. When you have a 13:1 cr motor, you got torque!
As for flexible fuels, it gets touchy, In CA if you have ANY fuel in the vehicle other than the CNG or Propane, you are not eligible for the HOV lane stickers. Add to that the compromise in performance you will have to get to even have a car that will run on Gasoline and CNG---retard the timing, drop the compression ratio, or both!
Dedicated and Purpose Built is the way to do it! As a commuter car daily driver you can't beat it. Of the tens of thousands of miles I put on the CNG Vehicles I used while working for Clean Energy Fuels (see their website) I never was stranded, and once you get a guide to where you can fuel---it really becomes nice to be able to zip around in the Carpool Lane and smile when the CHP pulls you over. Ever have a cop APOLOGIZE for pulling you over? I had it happen regularly, and it was a big PERK to driving a CNG vehicle! LOL
There is a company AFV (Alternative Fuel Vehicles) on Gothard Street in Huntington Beach CA that specializes in conversions. If you build the engine properly (13:1 CR at least) the conversion process will give you a vehicle with better performance than a Petrol Vehicle, comparable MPG, with the only tradeoff being range. You will be limited depending on what size tanks yo ucan fit in whatever chassi you have. My F250 was around 275 miles to empty, and E350 Van about 350. Compared to my Diesel F350 at almost 575 miles to empty, and my Current F250SD Petrol with the 5.4 SOHC engine at close to 400, it's more of an 'around town' kind of proposition.
Smaller cars with smaller engines will go similar distances. I believe the Honda Civics were around 275 on a fillup. Crown Vics as I recall, though only went 150 miles, unless you filled the trunk with the extended fill tanks, then you were good for 250 or 300 miles to empty.
It just takes som modicum of route planning.
Hell, you can buy a complete Modular Ford SOHC CNG Engine Assemly complete with 13:1 Forged Slugs right from the Ford Parts Catalog!
Talk about a Hybrid Z waiting to be made!!!
-
My feeder/booster pump for years was the stock 240 electric pump!
So that means you can get away with a VERY small 'booster' pump. Especially if your EFI return line is coming back to the surge tank.
-
I heard one, maby 2ish pings.
JeffP didn't hear any pings on the dyno at JWT and it cost him 5 expensive forged pistons!
At least you got the satisfaction of hearing something to satisfy your suspicions as to what happened...
-
Well, anybody use the SFP unit that didn't have major reqork required to make it stay on the head without warping?
Given my experience with JDM Greddy stuff, I'd go that way...
-
"their reasoning is that why would you need 6 holes on one side, 6 on the other, and two up front, and two and back, if they were all for these "casting holes"????"
It's symetrical---if you knew about how cores are positioned for the casting process, it would become evident. Sand isn't particularly strong, and needs support in lots of places.
They support cores.
But you still haven't answered the primary busting question: if they are 'freeze plugs' why are they in the intake manifold plenum?
-
why do you need an IAC? The factory bypass needle valve works wonderfully.
-
1352-047, right? 1252 is not on their list...
Production would say anything produced after 9/83 would federally be classed as a 1984 model...so perhaps it's just a late 83 Tranny.
I have seen '1984' ZXT's, titled that way at least. Federal Rules for production dates on imports usually run September to September for 'model year' changes.
Why would it matter, anyway-is there an ulterior motive?
-
My reference to the AIR pump was only to illustrate the size of the A/C compressor on a Geo Metro, not that you could actually use an AIR pump for anything that asthetics...
As for Air/Air being discounted, industrial stationary compressors use aluminum Air/Air units for cooling interstage air very effectively. Some two-stage units (stainless steel precooler, Aluminum Main Cooler) will have approach temperatures within 5 degrees of ambient. Not bad when you consider it's ingesting 455F air on the inlet side at full load. And this is 24/7 service!
Cooper Cameron (Cooper Turbocompressor, or whatever they are called this month) has had a small centrifugal multistage compressor available for close to 10 years now. 125 to 350HP range, supplying 125psi air. Those are AIA Coolers on it, and the air temperature will be very close to ambient on the outlet side of the cooler.
Thing is, if you cool too much below 85 degrees F, you will start getting a lot of condensate in the airflow, the more relative humidity the more you will get.
Most industrial application will limit first stage intercooling to 120 F inlet temperature to the second stage simply to keep condensate entrained. They just upsize the second stage wheel or compression element to compensate for the lessened air density.
The amount of condensate that can be entrained in the air almost doubles from 85 to 120 F. And again as it gets colder, you will get more condensate. As BLKMGK mentioned seeing 'fog' from the BOV, this is totally possible, and indicative of the 100 % Relative Humidity in aftercooled, compressed air. Any object that quickly drops the pressure will experience a JT effect, meaning a quick temperature drop...and the entrained water vapor will condense and turn into fog. In extreme cases, this 'fog' can be what is going into the engine... This can be 'bad' if the condensate is in sufficient quantity to lock a cylinder.
In an A/C based system (Freon), this WILL be a consideration as at 35 F you will have condensate running along the I/C piping. The easiest thing for elimination of this, is small pinholes in the bottom of the pipe with a soft rubber flap covering it tightly---under vacuum the hole is sucked closed by the close proximity of the rubber, under boost the condensate is positively eliminated through the holes, free to spew all over underhood components below them! (You can pipe it with flappers like on the old road-draft tubes the VW's had...but...what a pain!)
As for scoffing at A/C based systems, the project got a passing grade in Industrial Technology, and was proven in concept, real world, in a hot environment. You have to know what you're doing with the A/C, and one of the big considerations is the accumulator sizing. This goes with any sort of system using compressed anything. With a big enough accumulator, you will get by with progressively smaller and smaller compressors. It is FAR more suitable for a Street Car, than a Bonneville Racer. Street cars will rarely, if ever see more than 15 to 20 seconds of boost where the A/C must cool the charge. At all other times, it will, as mentioned above, eliminate all stored heat in the exchanger for better transient heat elimination.
I digress...
-
No, they are not.
But I know plenty of L-Engine people running HKS and no O-Ring.
They really are a stopgap...If you misfuel and detonate, something is going to break.
If you O-Ring, it will be your pistons, regardless of what super-duty unit you have. With just the HKS, you might blow the head gasket, but unlikely---JeffP sunk the ring lands in five pistons without ever hearing any detonation whatsoever...plain old HKS Gasket.
So it's more overkill than anything else.
Properly fuel your engine, clamp it to the block properly with good fasteners, and either setup will provide yoeman service.
Detonate, and it doesn't matter what you have, something is breaking, likely expensive pistons. Personally, I'll prefer to blow the head gasket and save my $100 per pistons! LOL
-
"the way water expansion will work, is it will freeze and take the easiest way out...this way is the freeze plug....not cracking iron........"
No, the way water expansion works is hydraulic pressure, it's equal throughout the system IF the water is fluid...
A "Relief Valve" only works in a FLUID system. When it becomes solid, it expands against the other solids and the cast iron will break.
Anybody arguing this point is simply ignoring the obvious question I have always posed: If their Function is NOT for holding CORES in place (hence the name "core plugs") then what in the world is the liquid that is going to Freeze in the INTAKE MANIFOLD PLENUM???
In this case, it is a Core Plug Hole. And you Insert a Welsch Plug into it, where it plugs the core plug hole.
There is a logical, engineering argument AGAINST the term 'Freeze Plug', and and equally strong engineering argument (up to and including Foundry Practices for over 100 years) for the term "Core Plugs".
The people at the local generic auto parts store have how many hours of engineering coursework behind them? How many years actually working in the automotive business?
Like I have said repeatedly: 'Just because you screwed your sister for 17 years doesn't mean it's right!'
As this subject is heading towards the 'beating the dead horse' realm... I will add the obligatory note: The difference between simply being ignorant, and being stupid is refusing to see the facts. When the facts are presented, and you refuse to change your incorrect stance, you cross over from the realm of the merely ignorant, to the stupid. Not knowing is one thing, knowing better yet still clinging to the old terminology is plainly stupid. Period.
-
i want to see someone hook an electric motor up to just the stock water pump like some v8's setups so its belt driven but not by the crank.
Been Done, our Bonneville car has been running the Summitt Racing V-8 universal electric water pump kit since 1999. Simple hookup, it works. Just not as pretty as the CSR Pump Setup.
-
Want a good explanation on why you WANT to run a thermostat?
grapeaperacing website has an extensive article on the micro-spot boiling in the head...
While you may 'not overheat' on an anecdotal level, what you are doing to the head, and the rest of the engine without a restriction at that point is not good, and the article referenced explains it very well. Someone else can find it again, it was in the 'favorites' of my old laptop, but no backup when it crashed... so the search is up to you!
The adventerous will link it here as well...
-
Actually there has been experimentation with freon-cooled engines. Yeah, they use Freon to cool the water jackets. A bit extreme and environmentally taboo these days, but some college guys in IA / IT classes in the day did some more Freon-Based intercooling activities. Long and short of it, it worked, the HP they got above standard intercooling was more than the parasitics of the compressor and the weight of the system.
And that was almost 30 years ago now. Take an A/C compressor out of something like a Geo Metro (about the size of an old A.I.R. Pump) and use it, along with a LARGE HP Accumulator and decently sized Condenser Unit (using the A/C Core from a Chevy Impala for the Evap in the Pressurized Air Side might work well...) for well below ambient cooling. The idea with the Large Accumulator is that the more capacitance you build into a system, the smaller a compressor you can get to drive the system. This means that even with the smallest compressor available, you will still have 'cycle time off' where the only parasitic is the belt drag a nd disengaged clutch. Figure either a Fixed Orifice, or a Capillary Expansion Valve setup to achieve a set chilled air temperature of no less than 35 degrees F (you get lower than that and you will 'blow ice chunks' into the intake and open valves...don't ask me how I know this...) and you will have one hell of a consistent air density.
This is the plan for our ZXT at Bonneville. There will be precooling of the air through conventional Air/Air, the secondary cooling was thought to be Air/Water using the aforementioned Ice Tank....but I started thinking about a street application and the duration of the pulls thinking that I may want something more self-regenerating. Like you said, 'halfway round the track and you're out' doesn't appeal to me either. Sure I could put a BIG ice tank, but water has a way of making bad things happen when it's inside a car at speed. I'd like it all to be 'out front' and underhood if at all possible.
The electric devices will assist an Air/Air Intercooler, but the amperage and transistor sizes needed to really cool air in that great a quantity would start being prohibitive at the voltages we have available in the vehicle.
Take a look to 'refrigerated air dryers' for industrial use---they are exactly the same thing---the thermal mass dryers are quite large and work by chilling big slabs of aluminum as air flows through them. The theory is that refrigeration can overcool the heat sink, and then cycle the reefer compressor off for less energy usage. The only difference in a Dryer as opposed to an automotive intercooler (and it doesn't need to be different, mind you) is that in a dryer the incoming air is precooled by the outgoing air---the outgoing air is then heated up to around ambient so you have a dewpoint differential and less cooling is required from the heat sink.
The Honday F1 Turbo cars used a blocked intercooler with their exotic fuel because it wouldn't atomize below 140F. Similar here: heat the air back up to a standard temperature that is sustainable...
It would take some calculation and trial and error, but I think a functional Refrigerant Based Intercooler system (primary or supplementary) is totally possible...
-
For Land Speed Events there are a lot of Air/Water I/C's out there, mainly because many of the cars have a blocked front end, and don't want air flowing through the grille opening. But there areseveral that run an Air-Air unit up front, and then a smaller Air/Water unit closer to the engine for better than perfect intercooling. Constant temperature is constant temperature. The nice thing about a water-air unit with a heat exchanger is that in stop-and-go traffic you have the thermal mass of the water that needs to be overcome before the water starts needing to reject heat. This heat-sink action can be very beneficial for air temps till it starts performing similarly to an Air/Air unit once the water is up to temperature, and must be cooled through whatever means you chose...
Hooking the A/C line to the cooler is a gviable option as well... Trim cooling would work well in that instance!
-
End of Crankshaft for a Nissan.
-
tonyD, ...but i dont understand why my AF ratio would be good if this was so....unless i just richened it up to compensate for it, and i didnt realize it.......
Two injectors down 20% on flow because something like a fuel filter's cellulose fibers got clogged in the inlet injector screens will easily be compensated for by a manifolded O2 sensor where you made the other 4 injectors pig rich...
JeffP's engine lost four or five pistons from detonation from the very same thing. Watched on the wideband at is instantaneously went from 12.5, 18.0, 22.0 as quick as the display would accomodate it. Never heard a ping, never heard a rattle...
Just Jeff calling one day saying "there's a lot of smoke coming from my valve cover, it's overwelming my breather box already"...
Flow testing is the only way to verify them. RC here you come.
As for an electric water pump...who needs water flow at lower engine speeds. This didn't happen at lower engine speeds, it happened above 3500rpm, best guess.
-
Deadhead fuel rail, with swarf logging the back two injectors, causing them to run lean?
Compressed natural gas, viable option?
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
http://www.propanecarbs.com/impco/125carburetor.html
http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/progs/res_guide.cgi?LPGRG
http://www.lngplants.com/carbturbo.htm
And this one is interesting since it lists current Nissan Products for Conversion:
http://www.vags.net.au/LPG-product-range.htm
http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/pdfs/conversion.pdf
http://www.primaryinfo.com/cngkits.htm
http://www.impco.co.jp/index_e.htm
http://www.impco-beru.nl/pdf/Leaflet%20CNG-1.pdf
And if you look at #7 on this list, you will find the company where I formerly worked, actually I did work at #8 as well... They are now in Cerritos apparently.
http://www.google.com/Top/Science/Technology/Energy/Transportation/Natural_Gas_Vehicles/
"Google Is Your Friend"---you just need to know what to look for!!! LOL