Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I'm thinking there is no way in hell one cam tower would be shimmed without totally binding the cam, unless the towers were inserted and line-bored.
Look closer, are you SURE the rest of the towers are not shimmed?
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Hmmmm, watcha gonna do with that 1.15 A/R housing?
BTW, the T3 used on Euro ZXT's was a .82 A/R, while the JDM L20ET had a .43 A/R (hot side A/R only). I really liked my .43 A/R on the US Turbo when I had it, made AutoX very entertaining. Nothing like getting 17psi at like 2000rpms! (1500 boost threshold at 10psi!)
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"What people DON'T usually talk about is that Jeff's incredible gain was NOT just a DP, but a swap from the full crap stock exhaust including small pipe, crap muffler and cat, to a full mandrel 3" system with high flow muffler and cat (and on top of that wasn't the cat easily removable and replaced with straight pipe?"
The statement was that he gained 20HP on a stock ZXT by bolting on his exhaust system (including cat). At least to my recollection, it may have been just the pipe, but I believe it was the whole system because all the experts said "you loose torque when you use a 3" system on a STOCK ZXT"---which Jeff proved incorrect, IN SPADES. Just another example of internet experts blather and bluster.
So Jeff's claim of 20HP GAIN form his _system_ really is a valid claim. And it went in the face of what people were TELING prospective customers at the time, as well.
Then consider that Jeff's goal was to size it for people to add on to their systems at a later time, and NOT have to continually upgrade the exhaust every time something was changed.
He is up to what? Near 500HP with that same system? So his engineering rationale was sound, "Buy my system, and you won't have to replace it till you reach "X" horsepower." What "X" is still remains to be determined, but given his last testing at 7000rpms having the same backpressure in the manifold as the intake, the exhaust downstream of the turbine STILL isn't a restriction to the horsepower he's running.
Which is the reason Jeff is asking for the tests (and for Pete to do a whole system) so he can see where the 2.5" system all mandrel bent will peter out horsepower wise. Until someone does the test, there will be no concrete number to point to saying "at 350HP, you need to go to 3" piping and system"... He went to 3" because of his calculations, but you always want to know "could I have gone smaller and met my goals?"---I mean, packaging a 3" exhaust in a ZX Chassis....well, lets say the 2.5" would be easier to do, for SURE!
I just find it interesting you can see 15HP from a downpipe as "believable" (yet you chose to contest the facts as presented by Jeff when he gave a number of 20hp bump for his _system_) without claiming that this pipe also might have had something else responsible for the bump in HP...
Mind you, I'm not doubting EITHER claim, I just find it funny that one was called into doubt, yet the other is "totally believable"---I can see why Jeff gets frustrated when talking about his developmental work.
I mean, with the cross-posting of the identical thread, with the cost included, it really looks like a thinly veiled classified ad, but that is beside the point I suppose...
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Heh heh heh, like Bastaad said on another pipe's dyno-proven claim:
"How do we know the pipe is responsible for that gain?"
(Devils Grin)
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Yep, stick a small K&N filter on that line, so you have some way to make up air to the tank as the pump draws the level down.
I have seen little facet-style pumps collapse the filler neck they draw such a high vacuum in the tank (if you have a good set of evap hoses, that is!)
I replaced my Charcoal Cannister with one form a Geo, it was 1/4 the size, and I just ran the hoses out into the fender well, I put the bracket AND the new smaller cannister under the headlight bucket out in the fenderwell. Worked great!
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Unless myseff or a RACER I know and trust has experience with something DIRECTLY (no Internet rumors) I will not offer opinions or recommendations to my customers. I prefer to say, "I don't know" instead of BSing or spreading rumors.
This sounds familiar, Bravo!
I wish more would heed it.
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well I just posted pics of the flange in my photo album only to see that you already welded on the part you had. Oh well.
I'll see if I can post a pic here so all can see what I was referring to.
Mike.
here maybe---
Thanks for those photos, that was close what I had in mind, but a "bolt to the turbo" configured flange where that was welded to your turbine housing.
At least I'm not totally insane, and my "dimensional projection skills" are still intact!
LOL
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John' date='
The part you weld on there is a billet steel part. I have one welded on
to a t4-P-trim ex housing now. I did not do the welding myself but I'm pretty sure the nickel rod and preheating recommended above will do the trick.
I think I may have exactly the part you need, it is an extra weld on part for a P-trim (exducer 2.62") housing, I've had it laying around since I got my turbo. I think these parts are available through turbonetics but tend to be expensive . If this one is the right size I'll just give/send it to ya.
I will try to post some pics of the one welded on and also the extra one when I find it. I think it's in the box with my wastegate.
I'm getting ready for work now so I'll post the pics early tomorrow morning when I get off work.
E-mail me at [email']mkieinmesa@cox.net[/email] if you are interested.
Mike
What I think he is referring to is probably going to look a lot like the piece I am mentioning about fabricating. That machined surface on the turbo looks like something should pilot into it, and THAT part is the "sacrificial" weldable part. Which is basically what I am suggesting you make up.
Geez, no heat treating furnace? Maybe I gotta move to Kentucky, we got one in the shop there for fitting wheels that will fit an entier L-Series Exhaust Manifold!
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Ahhh, you have a nice round machined circular area, make a mating flange and machine the housing, you got a Bridgeport, right? Same bolt configuration as the center section would be easy enough.
This will give you something that would easily seal (you could put a copper crushring in the bottom of the register if paranoid) and give you something expendable to weld onto, or to even change the configuration.
I guess I look at it differently, I'm figuring several smaller studs/bolts in the outer ring (aircraft ackground, what can I say?) would make an easy enough mounting flange, and allow you an infinite choice of configurations from the basic flange you have machined to fit into that register on the outlet of the turbo...
As I look at that outer register area, it looks like you could also machine a nice tapered exit from that center section, and use a larger V-Band if that was desired (larger diameter exhaust).
Guess welding would be quicker. Get to preheating for proper stress relief! You have the heat-treating oven there, right? There you have it, all set up and ready to go-heat, weld, then controlled cooldown on the automatic ramping feature of the heat treating oven...
I digress...
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normally the v-band adaptation is done via a plate that bolts on the flat flange of the back of the turbo, and the tube with V-Band is incorporated into that. It eliminates the question about welding the casting.
A good cast iron repair place might be able to do it, it requires the entire casting be heated to temperature, then welded, and cooled at a set rate.
Old Pete could do it down in Wilmington, but he retired last year and now I'm screwed when it comes to trick adaptations like that...
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well, it becomes programmable when used with an E-manage, correct?
No, it becomes programmable with Nistune and/or the Romulator.
the E-manage just lets you tweak parameters on the input side to screw with the injector pulsewidths.
The Nistune is....ohhhhh, oooooohhhh, eeerrraaagh! It's so much more...
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I believe the BHJ Damper is available with a single groov, either that--or it's available with the two different width grooves for the years...
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Well, I'll parallel the charging wire tomorrow afternoon and see if that helps, but I hold no great hopes...
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Well, ran a supplementary 10 gauge wire from the alternator body to the engine block, from the engine block to the chassis ground point where the "star ground" goes directly from the battery negative post.
Same thing.
Hooked a 10 gauge wire from the MS Case, and grounded it to the chassis.
Same thing.
I had a third ground wire I left dangling off the block from it's common point, and during run checked the voltage from the end of that ground line, to the battery negative terminal. During running, this shows 32.5mVDC. This voltage represents something, not sure what, but it doesn't seem excessive at all.
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Oh, I will be there next weekend to go Kart Racing with the Z-ZX Club, and show the world the dominance of "Jabba The American" and the now-famous "Inertial Driving Technique!"
Good to see your shop, too! See you in a week or so! LOL
Frank has the EasyJet details in his Yahoo Box, make sure he reads them before next weekend!
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For reference I used the diode with GM alternator on my setup and took power from the starter as well. After I sold the car Nelson did say that he had to ground the MS box because the fan relay wasn't working correctly. I had it tied up, but not bolted up.
That's what I recalled, as well.
I have some GM alternators laying around, could it be Delco-Remy does a better job at electrical noise supression than Hitachi?
Lord no, even the Brits abandoned Lucas for Delco.....
Right now the box is floating on the center console, but it always was before... Maybe another ground to the case couldn't hurt. I have a vice grips laying around, this might not look pretty, but it'll work...
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A better response to compression would be to put the dished N/A or even the flat-topped pistons from a norma L20E in there, and be done with it. The amount you will get from cutting the head will be nil, and cause all sorts of timing issues as stated above.
As far as the L28, if you can't get em, you can't get em, right! Tax class, and insurance regulation in NZ are a bit different than in the USA where engine swaps can usually be carried out willy-nilly.
So to sum it up, find an L20E and swap those pistons in there. Get a late enough EFI engine (post-1975), and they will have a dished top that is in the 8.0 8.2 range.
My 75 L20A with dual SU's had pistons with a slight dome to them. Damndest thing!
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Dragonfly has a good explanation. Basically there were several pulleys you can have, with marks on either side of the engine, depending on options of the donor vehicle. Such is the case with the L28 engines as well as earlier cars.
What I am suprised at is that nobody surmised the ELASTOMERIC DAMPENING RING FAILED and your timing slipped THAT way. On an L28, that is VERY common!
Wiggle that pulley and see if you can get it to move. It may be toast, and time for a BHJ Damper Upgrade.
When I get a new, or "new to me" pulley assembly, I will centerpunch a set of marks on the front and backside to indicate where the inner and outer pieces are in relation to one another. If they start moving, it becomes VERY easy to simply see the failed part, and not "think your timing slipped"....
As always, verify TDC on #1 to see which mark is the CORRECT position before deciding if anything is wrong or slipped... That is quick, easy, and lets you know your next step immediately!
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"too bad the L6 never got heads like that."
Ahhhhh, Mack! Check out the FIA Homogolation Papers for the 240Z! You will find a head like that, FIA Homogolated, back in the early 70's.
Not that one ever made it to THESE shores, but then again, what good engine bit ever DOES?
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You near liverpool or manchester?
I am due in to either place the 27th of this month, and in my tool kit I am carrying mirrors for a 280ZX, and about $400 worth of small bits for a boat-tailed 69 Buick Riveria...
Somehow I think adding six pistons might get a bit "suspicious" but if my flight transfers through Schipol in Amsterdam, I'm sure they wil be more concerned about "other" things coming in than engine bits...
The problem being at this point actually getting the parts to me before I leave! MSA is close, and I already am making a trip to Harbor Freight for Paul in Norway (gads, I'm a regular contraband artist, huh?) but the question is how long is their wait for pistons.
If you want them shipped SURFACE, and can wait the 8-10 WEEKS (sometimes longer) I would be morethan happy to pick up a will-call at MSA for you, and repackage and ship them that way. Would probably run around $40-$50 US to ship just pistons, pins, and rings. I do it for Frank280ZX in Utrecht Netherlands all the time.
Blast, I will have to set it up to make another trip, won't I? LOL
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Hey TonyD
I had some problems initially with my setup (although not exactly same symptom as you) and found my problem to be that I had hooked up the MS 12 volt source to one of the alternator wires.
It seems that the alternnator throws out some crazy EMF pulses that seem to get damped the further away you get.
As soon as I moved it away' date=' closer to the fuse box all went well.[/quote']
My power wire comes off the starter, where the (+) Batt Lead goes to the thing. THROUGH that Radio Shack 20A power filter whit the transformer coil and big capacitors in it! I mean, power coming out of there LOOKS clean from the O-Scope point of view, leastwise last time I looked it did...
I suppose I could take power nearer to the fusebox, but then due to the 260's butt-spliced wiring harness (from the factory, cut one apart and SEE!) the voltage will be lower. As it is, the Datalogs show the voltage as 12.6V when it's charging, and 11.8V when it's on battery alone. BEFORE the alternator swap, the voltage was showing like 13VDC on the datalogs, and would rise to 15+ with the engine speed rising---making me suspect the external regulator was not keeping a tight enough tolerance and the higher voltage was freaking out the MS internals.
But now, the datalogs never show more than juuuuust under 13VDC. Which theoretically should be close enough to not cause problems.
The diode in the external regulator connection was the solution to "run on" when the car is switched off, when you convert the 240 and the 260Z from external regulation to internal regulation on the alternator, you have to jumper some of the external regulator plug points to allow a loop to feed back to the alternator for sensing voltage. If you don't install a diode, once the field flashes on the alternator, and you shut the key off, the car continues to run on a feedback loop. The diode stops this. This is what it was doing intitially when I first had the car running (oh, what, three years ago now?) I would stall it to kill it, but it was running fine then. (Except for the resets....caused by the Vaio Laptop I was using....another time, another story...)
But what kind of regulator did you need to install? Previously we clamped the incoming power with a diode, and David U from Melbourne showed me a chip regulator to instal linline to regulate the voltage to a preset point....is this what you are referring to?
My question would be WHY? Datalogs are showing acceptable voltages as it is.... I guess I could re-scope the incoming power, but I didn't see anything untoward the last time. Neither did JeffP. Though we did see an inductive kick from the injectors in everything, it was nothing of great notice. it is still there when running on battery power, and has no effect on operation! I could think it was a loose connection, but since the car is motionless, and runs for literally an HOUR on the battery with no hint of even a hickup or fart or misfire, I'm still in the "fu*king alternator POS" mode of thinking. At least these last couple of posts gave me something to try.
I can set up another ground on the alternator, separate from the factory harness, directly to 1) the block, 2) the ground point on the chassis, 3) the Battery (-) Terminal, and 4) Possibly the MS Ground point, but that is also run back to the battery if I recall, so that one is moot I suppose.
I'll have to dig up DavidU's Regulator Circuit and see what I can do with that.
Noisy alternator. What a PITA. Anybody got an idea on what O-Scope Settings I should use to CHECK the incoming power line for to actually SEE the disturbance? As it is, everything looks very stable from the power filter. I wonder if it's feeding up the GROUND side?
Gaaargh!
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Seeing JP's Posts on his 260Z, I wonder if the power to my fuel pump is shutting off as well....
Hmmmmmmmmm...
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"Even more exciting is if there is someone with experience in the LA area that can help me tune."
What the hell, mine isn't going anyplace anytime soon, my cel number is 9092862981, I'm out by Moreno Valley, I can play hookey from work for a day this week I think...
May as well get another one going while mine takes an ever deepening dump. Maybe I'll see something on yours that's lacking on mine.
Besides, Xander's is in his passenger's footwell right now!
Welp... made a PCV evacuation system with my turbo and N42 intake
in Turbo / Supercharger
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Have you done a cylinder leakdown or compression test?
The stock setup like you have, drawing through a .080" to as small as a .063" orifice in the lower block hole should give you MORE than enough evacuation at idle, and going down the road, off-boost.
Additionally, when you drop throttle from on-boost, the spike in manifold vacuum will be limited in it's application to the crankcase---thereby greatly reducing oil mist carryover to the intake manifold.
Generally restricting the PCV is done if you are track racing and on-off-on the throttle. The stock system works fine, but if anything goes kaput (like ring lands) and you start blowing by, you can flood the intake in short order and detonate to DEATH instead of simply ruining a ring set and a piston or two (it becomes six if that happens!)
If you have crankcase pressure, check your rings! It should easily evacuate through the orifices mentioned at idle, or any condition of the engine's operation---even with a lopey high-overlap cam with only 9" of intake manifold vacuum at idle (yeah, been there, done that!)
Just a suggestion, excess pressure makes me leery!