Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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HI Again' date='
Just insert a flat washer the same size as the O/D of the pressure spring between the spring and the regulator cap nut it that Easy. But If this doesn't raise the pressure then the pump has run out of flow with hot oil?
Chuckie:twisted:[/quote']
Yes, I find that the standard M6 flat washer fits nicely!
10-15psi at idle is more than enough at hot idle.
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Just to remind all, many of the 79 and 80 ZX's had a Non-EGR manifold as well, without the BCDD underneath it. P82. Smaller plenum than the N42, but "product improvement" would seem to indicate this was the way Nissan went for a reason...
No EGR is No EGR, and the ZX manifolds seem more plentiful than the N42's.
Check out my cardomain page for a photo of the P82 manifold in use on a 260ZT Megasquirt Conversion.
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Trust (GReddy) manual one.. have one from a 7MGTE clip..
mike
I agree, Greddy/Trust.
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That's not an external pump, that is a conversion for the stock pump tobypass the gundrilling in the block for supply and feeding oil to the engine. It still utilizes the stock pump, and stock pump drive.
I was sniped by someone who has bought a trillion kids clothes, but not one engine part... Hmmmmmmmmm.
The conversion for this without the pan can be had from NISMO for $270.
It helps flow quite a bit, but still uses the stock pump. Telling you something about the stock pump!
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anybody do this?
it seems like theres lots of oil pump failures and i dont want to take the risk on my Z's.
That's a bit of an overstatement! I don't think there is a bunch of oil pump failures, but if you are sloppy in assembly you can make even the best designed pieces fail.
The external pumps are readily available, do a search on "Dry Sump" oil systems on google, and you will find many many many sources.
To keep it "wet sump" using an external pump, you block it off like you would with a dry sump (the old oil pump portion of the front cover) and plumb the suction into the pan like you would for the "ultimate wet sump external pickup" setup guys have been using for years. This bypasses the restrictive internal oil pickup gundrilling, and lets the strainer pick up oil from the bottom of the pan directly through a -10 braided line directly.
But I think its a lot of work to solve a problem that doesn't exist.
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Have you checked the Redline Weber Site to see what they shipped with?
I don't have my ref with me right now.
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One of the reasons that Mikuinis get such great mileage is that the PILOT jet is usually all you are running on below 3000rpms. Unlike webers where the transition ports aren't really that big, so they jet the mains richer and use a smaller booster to tip in the main circuit earlier.
Once you go on the main circuit, you will be lucky to break into the 20's.
Generally pilot jets are between 55 & 60
I can't remember where mine are now, 220 airs, and maybe 145 or 155 mains. It's been so long I can't remember.
I agree, though, 5mpg isn't good. I had a blowthrough turbo setup that got that at the track with 44PHH's. But that was at the track. If you drive like you are at the track, and have rpms up appreciably above 3200 continually, the mileage will suffer...
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oil weight will change transient response, you will see transient leans on throttle application.
doubling up the spring weight will show a more positive response.
welcome to the world of the "metered vacuum leak"!!!
BTW, there is really no "set" number on the "Turns Down"---ideally it is set based on lean or rich best idle, and the setting of the needle height sets the rest of the rpm range.
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Have you considered e-mailing redline weber and asking them for the jetting recomendations, and then getting SMALLER mains and idles.
Get the recomendations for the California Emissions Legal carburettor setup, they _may_ be leaner, but I'm remembering the only difference in the kits was an anti-dieseling solenoid on the carbs for the idle circuit.
many of the weber manuals carry jetting recomendations. if worse comes to worst, use a colortune to get the jetting right, if not a WBO2.
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This is the DGV Duals, right, not the 40 or 45DCOE triples?
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DAW, when were you in the Chrysler Challenge, and what School in Michigan?
Anybody know what year that Chrysler Challenge started? 1980, 1985?
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I haven't forgotten! I really haven't. I'm still catching up on housework that my wife will make a deal about if I don't! I'm close though...dug the ditch, cut up one car, only three more cars to cut up (in reality, I can get by with cutting one more to dumpster sized pieces), and some relocation of the existing cars and I should be "finished" areound the yard for the time being.
I am feverishly working today to free up tomorrow. Have to get my company truck serviced sometime Monday...but I'm hoping I can do that Tuesday afternoon on my drive to Sac'to. I'm supposed to be in Sac'to Tuesday, Wednesday, and return Thursday... Leaving Friday open too, now that I think about it!!!
Man, my laptop if FULL, too! BAH! Too much to do, too little time top do it in.
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You will notice most of the serious tuner shops in Japan convert the sequential twins to a single turbo when going for linearity. HKS came out with a single turbo cas t manifold for both the Supra and RX7 almost immediately.
This is different when they are dual turbos operating in parallel--many times they keep twins then, and only occaasionally go with a larger single. Depends on how mig you want to go---dual 500HP turbos may be more difficult to package in a tight engine bay than a single 1000hp capable turbo mounted in a different location.
Sequentials seem to be more of an advertising gimmick, than practical application, when dealing with serious horsepower.
With the advent of the VNT GT35 series turbos, the best of both worlds is becoming more and more accessible. Now to find one with an A/R of .82 or .63 instead of the 1.06 that is everywhere...
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I would heartily agree with jm's latest post:
Find a Z-Specialist nearby and use THEM, don't go to a general repair station.
Guys who do bread and butter LOF's and Late Model work rarely have the time and inclination to deal with tuner cars (which yours is), or early models (again like yours!).
Most of the "seasoned" technicians eventually get PO at dealing with shop politics or whatever and move in with other like minded individuals to work on specialty stuff.
It's the difference between going to an M.D. for a Toothache. They will give you an Rx for painkillers to the end of time, but eventually they may or may not refer you to a DDS to take care of the REAL problem!
When you look back, in retrospect you think: "Why didn't I go to the Dentist in the first place?"
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Well, Ed, I don't exactly know why you would have to "tune" your Webers every weekend---mine were set up once, and other than adjusting idle screw (which usually went right back where it was anyway) when I did a normal tune-up I didn't screw with them for YEARS.
So there is something wrong with your setup, and you're missing it. Fix that before putting another system on it, or you will have some hard road ahead when it comes to smoothing out the MS system. You might get 12mpg on a good day with Webers, BTW, if you have a moderate foot. The trick with them is the emulsion tubes and transition port modifications to get a decent transistion. If you lost power with the Webers, my guess is you are pig rich to begin with.
Are you wanting to run the Webers with the MS giving you spark control ONLY, or are you going to go back to EFI, and drive it with MS?
Again, your wanting to make nasty comments aside, if you clearly stated what you PLAN on doing with the car, instead of giving peicemeal quips we could probably be MUCH more helpful. You say to "read your posts" but damn, dude!
Your first post says 280Z. COMMON SENSE would say Stock EFI. We are not telepathic here---you said nothing about Webers. That didn't come till the 9th post in the thread.
I'm still confused beause you haven't really CLEARLY said ANYTHING...
So let's clarify:
What are you DOING, and what are you PLANS---no hidden things here, put it up front so we aren't guessing or making assumptions. What needs to be seriously and clearly addressed...
Are you planning on using the EFI going back to the stock or a modified manifold, or the Webers?
Are you planning on running IGNITION ONLY--using the MS as a controllable ignition box?
If it's the latter, you probably would be cheaper to get a recurved dizzy and have better results than the rather complex path of making a locked down unit to trigger an auxillary spark control box, and driving the igniton that way.
I will tell you this, while a programmable ignition will sound good, it's just not really needed on an N/A engine. A recurved dizzy works well, and is the design complement to the Weber Conversion since they don't have vacuum advance. I will agree with the above statement, the programmable ignition is not going to solve your MPG woes.
For that, you will need to ditch the webers, and run close to 18:1 AFRs in the two or three lowest MAP bins--with that you will get 30mpg with a 3.9 rearend and an early five speed. (Though to be honest, that is with triple throttle bodies...)
But changing the igniton alone? Ain't gonna do nothing appreciable for your mileage.
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I gotta say, Superkid, you definately are "in training"! If you did every hairbrained test a customer demanded you will find out VERY quickly you not only waste YOUR time, but the customer who "knows it all" will be JUST as P.O. when it's not fixed at the end of the day.
For what the guy says, if he says your Webers are mounted backwards, that's a visual thing---if he SEES IT then there is no reason to do any more till THAT is fixed.
I can tell you right now IT'S JETTED WRONG. All the DGV kits were. They are marginal performers, and DO need rejetting, especially on tired old engines---they run rich.
And if it's not a smog-legal california kit, I can WARRANT they are jetted FAR too rich.
I don't need a scope to tell ME that, nor do I need an exhaust analyzer.
Put it on a dyno with a five-gas why don't you? That will run you 150 and HOUR, and be about as usefull.
Before telling the technician his job, why not try fixing the MECHANICAL portions of your vehicle first. As a technician, I would NOT put diagnostic meters like the exhaust analyzer on to verify a bad condition till there was a snowball's chance to be repaired.
If I saw mechanical problems, I would say they need to be repaired first, before any more in-depth diagnostics were done. What would the scope tell you? That you are firing on each cylinder? What voltage you are firing at? I mean, what is the point of putting it on the scope----what is the car doing that makes you think putting in on a magic box will tell you anything an experienced technican can't figure out by listening, observing, and doing simple tests with his hand tools.
This is only common sense. You have to have it mechanically correct, FIRST, then get down to the details.
The exhaust analyzer will NOT "tell you what is wrong with your carbs", it will just tell you what he ALREADY KNOWS: They are jetted rich.
Instead of coming here complaining about trying to get your car back without paying a guy for the time he has into it---why don't you post the PROBLEMS you are having.
Had you done that first, you probably would be $600 richer right now.
Or at least have carbs mounted correctly.
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P.S. Anybody seen Corvette Summer?
I have, and do you remember the scene where he almost finds what he thinks is the car, out in Vegas? Guy at a gas pump: "Hey this car's in Vegas!"
Are you sure? It's right hand drive!
"Yeah yeah yeah, Candy Apple Metal Flake---this car's in Vegas!"
So Luke...uh....Mark goes to Vegas where there is a big "Win This Car" display, and he fights his way to the front of the crowd, and he sees a RHD S-30 Z-CAR done up just as hideously as they did that Corvette and incredulously says:
"A DATSUN?!?!?!?!?"
At first, it was just a disapointment when I saw it in the theater. Later, when I bought my first Fairlady Z, I found it amusing as hell! It's still funny to me...
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JeffP has Crower Rods in his stroker.
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search and you will see over and over and over that you don't need a laptop to tune the megasquirt!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHH!
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no worries, if you knew what I have kept close-mouthed on in the past to this very day, you would be amazed.
You forget I have signed confidentiality agreements binding me from talking about a LOT of things I saw from the years 1999-2002 when I was around some very high-end motorsports development work (peripherally, admittedly, but I knew what I was looking at! LOL)
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I swore to gawd I posted Lance's information.
There is someone who will build you a cylinder head for around $15,000.
If you are unwilling to invest that much, I hesitate to give out his information. The stuff is there in the links if you go backwards from my original sourcing.
I just don't want him pestered with a bunch of questions from people who are not going to actually buy the thing from him.
Sorry, but I have to use him for some of my stuff, and I don't want him P.O. for me causing him grief with a bunch of callers wasting his time.
Yeah, I don't want to sound coarse, but I clicked on two links on that page and found contact information. Please if you aren't serious to that level of commitment don't bother him, I don't need that kind of grief when I go into the shop, and really can't afford for him to be P.O. at me.
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Not "Stock", the phrase was "Competition Prepped Stock Rods" the labor for that can be two hours per rod---$100 each, plus what the rod cost initially---that is close to the dollar level where you can get a decent aftermarket rod.
For a race engine that was on an almost unlimited budget, in a class that required 'stock components" they used prepped stock rods to around that 600hp level. After that, they outright broke. For longevity reasons below that hp level and where the class rules allowed it (weight is also MAJOR REASON) they went with aftermarket rods.The stockers were simply inspected and replaced frequently. Aftermarket units, not so much so.
There will be absolutely no reason to run the three programs in your Megasquirt. The ONLY thing you will get is resolution from the lower boost levels, making the map go from 0 to 21psia for your first example, and 0-28psia for the second one.
Now the "race gas" versus "pump gas" would benefit as the advance curves would make a difference.
One of the primary reasons to go with aftermarket rods is you can pick a length you want, to accomodate a custom piston with a custom pin height. if you go this far, and are going to have custom pistons made anyway, you may as well go wit hthe rods, they will be uder $1200 more than likely, and you can be sure they are lighter than stock, and probably stronger. If you are doing it, do it right and then don't worry about it. The power will be in the head. Holding it together will be in the bottom end.
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"He had his doubts about the longevity of the cam"
Don't worry Jeff, those only have to last 23 miles, and afterwards, we can both wear our Red Jackets with pride....
Ssssssh! "Top Secret!"
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You guys (ED and GAVIN) are putting words in the mouths of the people answering the questions. neither of you have sufficiently answered any of the questions posed to you about the proposed setup you are running.
Let's recap thusfar:
What Megasquirt requires is a Crank Referenced Signal that will trigger three events per crankshaft revolution. This can be accomplished through the 81 CAS unit, magnets on the flywheel, magnets on the pulley, or hall effect sensors in similar configuration.
If you reference off the cam, to give the same 3 per revolution, you will need six triggered events. This can be accomplished off the stock 82/83 CAS which has a specially splined drive to keep slop to a minimum.As before, six trigger magnets, or paddles on the camshaft with a pickup can also be used.
You can also use a stock distributor that has had both the Vacuum and Centrifugal Advance Mechanisims removed and the breaker plate locked to prevent any movement. If you are using the reluctor and pickup in the stock system, you will need to interface through the stock MS Box through an amplifier to shape the signal (HEI Module). This is IN ADDITION to the HEI module you will use to triger the coil for the spark events. I needn't be anything special as there is no dwell issue or high output required like on the one that drives the coil.
But points? No, I wouldn't recomend points as the signal is simply not clean enough totrigger the events. If you converted to a pertronix or other breakerless ignition system then you could use it. But for the cost, an 82/83 ZXT CAS would be available.
So to sum it all up, POINTS, no. Breakerless, yes, with modifications.
If you have N/A, there really is no real need to control spark with the ECU---it's when the turbo kicks in boost when spark control comes in handy. For my wife's 260Z, I went with the MS-n-S on an N/A simply because the ignition system was breaking down, so a conversion to the 82 CAS had more than one advantage.
Keep in mind, if you ARE turbo, the extra voltage of the spark flying around in the distributor can cause issues with tower jumping---which is one of the reasons the 81-83 ZXT's have terminals spaced further apart, a rotor that fits the cap tighter, and a rotor with a longer arc for spark jumpoff to a terminal...
If you are turbo, and plan on boost above 10-12psi, you woul.d be well served to go with the cap with the wider terminal spacing and not use the N/A dizzy in that application.
Problems w/ MSA headgasket...pics.
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I'm wondering why nobody says to call in a claim to the SHIPPER for flexing the gasket in shipment?
Sounds a bit picky, I don't think that will make any measurable difference in use.