Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Thanks. It started up with the 100 Ohm resistor, but now reads about 1500 rpm over at idle. Should I use a different resistor? And how would I be sure which?
There is actually a trimpot on the back of the tachometer you can tweak to get it "recalibrated" correctly, but simply adding resistors in series till you get close, THEN using the tweakability trimpot internal to the tach for the final tuning would probably be a better idea... Use several resistors to find the total that gets you close, then see if you can find a single resistor to replace the "package" you assembled. Even if it's only somewhat close, you still have the internal trimpot to make the final adjustments.
My Autometer Tach is terribly innacurate below 1100 rpm, but from that point onward, it's dead on. So I live with it, who needs the tach below 1100 anyway?
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I read a lot of theory on this thread, but has anyone answered the question? Will these rockers work with a standard cut L cam?
That was answered pretty clearnly in JeffP's post dealing with the actual ratio they are, and the ramp shape and lobe profile.
In short, no. You need a custom ground cam to take advantage of the roller rocker.
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Thanks Katman, that was what I thought. I looked in the "Blue Book of How To Modify" and in there it says 4.218, but everyplace other I have cehcked says 4.250"
So that measurement of .003 "off spec" is nowhere near you need to be to casue a problem with chain length.
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Yeh, L20B rods are a bit long, at 146mm, but they work nicely in an L20A to work the rod ratio up to the stratosphere... Tight Ring Stack and custom pistons, for sure!
In Japan, N42's were boosted to over 2 bar routinely using old school technology, so that shouldn't be a problem. As Tim has shown with that Dyno Chart, it's doable...
(Gives him a chance to post it again...LOL)
With that low a compression ratio, you might want to look into a retarded line-staging scheme to the timing so you can build boost at the line and launch under almost full boost. You will be loosing time unless you get something to spool that baby---man, I wouldn't want to road race that thing, off bost tractability would be like a Yugo...
Let us know how it all works out. Good Luck!
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Cool, nice shots and looks nice with the MS in there!
But...
"but we later discovered that it is actually one of the rare Black Pearl Edition Z's - the first Z to come in black."
Add to that a disclaimer "In the US Market", they were available in true black on Fairlady Z's in Japan for years before they offered "The Pearl" here!
On that never turning off brake light, make sure you are using the correct master cylinder caps---the 77 and 78s had those funky level floats, if they stick or the mag switches go bad you get that. I used ZX caps on my Fairlady to fix that after the P.O. put in a standard, earlier MC in the car. Two outher sources for the light: Handbrake Switch being bad, or the wire being sliced and grounding, and the little switch on the left fenderwell down by the frame rail---not the switch so much, but the exhaust heat making the wire insulation melt and it grounding out...
I digress. Hope those ideas get your brake light to go out!
Boost On!
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Stock thickness on factory L6 heads is 4.248 inch give or take a few thou.
I edited. I was thinking 4 1/4", ended up decimalizing 4 1/8".
Damn, why can't we all go to the metric system?!?!?!?!?! 108mm?
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Oh, and as far as checks, use the FSM, there is a Clutch Plate Thickness specification, a rivet head depth specification, as well as several other checks you can make.
If you need the information from the 240mm BW Clutch Assy, I have the FSM for my 83ZXT, and probably can scan and e-mail you the checks and specifications pages--drop me an e-mail and I will get on it if you need it right away.
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You're basically using the throwout bearing and the pilot bushing the whole time you have the clutch pushed in. If you put it in neutral and let the clutch out that's better for the car.
Don't forget the center THRUST BEARING!
Personally, I DISCONNECT the clutch switch on EVERY car I own, including my wife's 2000 Frontier. We existed for DECADES without an "Idiot Interlock" that says to start your car in "N".
I can think of nothing more strenuous for a babbit bearing that placing it under FULL LOAD without lubrication, and rapidly accelerating the components. Think about it, that is EXACTLY what you are doing by depressing the clutch and starting the car on a cold morning! Hell, every time you start the car!!! Ever wonder how you can set up endplay tight, and 20K miles later when you check thrust clearances it's changed by a few thousandths?
I am a big "put it in N" fan, for a hill I use the E-Brake. On the one car, I can use the line locks, but that ends up being bad for the tires---the rears at least...LOL
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Yeah, Brazil's Alcool Programme was highly successful...
Advances in electronic technology are solely responsible for gains in efficiency. Without EFI, Ethanol really gets sucked down, is almost impossible to get the car to start in sub-zero temperatures, and it's a continuous fight to keep water out of the fuel system, as ethanol LOVES water!
The problem is the energy used to produce ethanol is far more than that of conventional fossil fuels. Matter of fact, most ethanol produced for automotive usage outside the mideast portions of the USA comes from hydrocracked petroleum because it's simply cheaper and more efficiently produced by that means as opposed to terribly inefficient biomass alternatives for base stock production.
It has less BTU's, you will always use more per miles travelled than gasoline. It's not the miracle fuel ADM touts it to be, not by a long shot. Living with it as a sole source fuel opens your eyes. I recomend you try it, your eyes will be opened in more ways that one.
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Pretty Simple to figure out how much was machined: Take a caliper amd measure from deck to top of the head, measurement is somewhere around 4.250" or there abouts. When checking in the junkyard that is what I chek for, and it hasn't steered me wrong.
I usually check the spec before going junkyarding for the day---it's in the Blue Nissan "How to Modify" booklet. That will tell you exactly how much has been removed from the head.
As for how mch out of the tensioner---till it pops out. The NISMO catalog formerly had a chain tensioner LIMITER that would stop the thing form popping out, but short of measuring that distance on someone's engine that has one the only thing I can say is so it's stable, doesn't cock, and doesnt' pop out.
An L20B set would be WAY too long. 10mm too long! Your tensioner would be popped out if you used one of those. They move out with 30 to 100 thousandths milled off the head, with almost TWICE that, the thing literally slaps all over the place, and I don't think that's what you have.
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methanol needs precautions like SS injectors. Ethanol is not nearly as corrosive.
I ran a VW bus for a project for almost a year back in 1979. Distilled my own from Sugar Beets.
Fuel mileage being "little" worse is an understatement. More like 1/2! I got about 5 to 8mpg as opposed to 12 to 19 with gasoline.
The only real difference between the two engines was the flycut on the heads for the compression increase. Same dizzy Bosch 009, just twisted a bit further for running on Ethanol.
Methanol (M85) is the stuff that's nasty. Ethanol (E85) isn't that bad, nor is it really requiring of anything special in line of fuel system components.
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Yep, that's the "4+2" configuration common from 75-80 or 81...
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The funny thing is the Rotary Valve People were not interesting in building a head for a Z-Car, nor with converting an existing example. They are hellbent for election on converting every metropolitan Diesel Bus in the country into a CNG Burning Rotary-Valved powerplant, and simply don't have time for us Hobby-Guys with some coin to experiment...
The DEVAS people, on the other hand, more that happily provided a quote, and given the tradeoffs between using a preexisting head, and retrofitting the actuators to it, or redesigning the whole head to use the rotary valves, the retention of current technology is somewhat more palatable as the rotary valve scheme is still fixed and static with regards to the power you get from the thing---the Variable Aspects of the DEVAS system and it's ability to retrofit to the existing cylinder head makes for an interesting conversion. The shutter system you discussed IS EXACTLY what the DEVAS system can do with the EXISTING poppet valves! There really is no reason for a throttle valve when you can control lift, opening time, duration, and rate of opening!
Even more interesting is the possibility of using a Modular Headed KA-24 conversion with the DEVAS system giving us better port flow, as well as a crossflow head without the hassle of re-lineboring the cams after sweatbrazing the head sections together....
But we digress.
BTW, the Aspin Rotary Valve is a very old concept, still 20th century....
Computer controlled vavles on a pseudo-desmodromic valve arrangement is a modern application of an 18th century idea.
Get RID of the cam! (insert photo of red circle with line through it superimposed over camshaft)
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Over by the Brake Booster!
I used a ballast from an 81 or 82 I believe. It was the only one I found that had a true SIX resistor pack, and not the more common 4+2 setup. The 4+2 setup has two plugs to it, and two power wires, but if you strip the wiring cover back far enough, you find the "two" power wores are spliced together to a common point that leads back to the relay.
It's a small aluminum box attached to the sheetmetal with two screws. White plug on a short pigtail. It's there!
See, I knew you would find it! LOL
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By Euro, I mean EURO.... GERMANY!
The JDM L20ET has the EXACT SAME manifold as the L28ET we got here in the USA.
The Euro Manifold was on continental cars---the manifolds usually come out of Germany. I have had one pass through my hands to JeffP, and one that I had to disassemble to fit in my personal Clothing Bag (disassembled in the back of a Nissan Leopard, under the watchful eye of an Uzi-Toting Poleizi at Degaulle Airport departure curb at about 230AM one morning after spending the day in Paris!)
The guy who was my source is no longer shipping internationally due to some developments like loosing several shipments in the Katrina Morass (tracked 3.36 R200 Ring and Pinion Sets to the trans-shipping/customs house in Alabama the week Katrina hit---then, noooothing! Like they disappeared!)
He will be making the pilgrimage to MSA this year, though... Perhaps he could be persuaded to bring parts (which I think he's doing anyway! LOL) Frank and Xander---are you following this thread?
I have that one manifold, with some alterations on the stock expansion joints. That coating after porting is in the works for this one for sure.
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Yeah, after seeing his copy again, I tried to get it to copy on MY system because HIS dupe that he gave to me had a bad generational degredation. I couldn't even get THAT out of him!
You know those episodes were 15,000 Yen EACH?????? Wow! So 80's Pricing! LOL
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Screw all this "cam" and "rocker" B.S., I'm going to drive a hydrostatic pump and open the damn valves with a computer controlled electro-hydraulic actuator...
DEVAS System, screw all this extra metal crap!
Then I can alter valve timing based on throttle position, engine speed, rate of throttle position change, hell I can change the RATE of valve opening with that system.
Cams, Rockers, ADJUSTMENT---man, you guys are SOOOOOO 19th Century!!!
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The reason for the Euro Manifold is simple: The US does not have conditions conducive to turbo application for more than a few seconds at a time. The Euro Manifold does NO "warp up at the ends" like the stock US and JDM manifolds do, and will take SUSTAINED turbo usage---running on boost for hours as opposed to minutes at a time.
Europe is probably the only place where you can hold you foot in the throttle and use the full rated BHP for an hour at a time! (260Kph)
Hell, at Bonneville, the course is only 5 miles long....
Anyway, if someone used that stock US Spec manifold for very long on the Autobhan I suspect some stresses from thermal growth would manifest themselves. The slip joints on the Euro Manifold allow for the expansion.
And if the SoFlorida Performance had similar joints, they wouldn't warp off the head 3/8" after a few runs!
Remember the Eurospec Turbos were rated at 20 more HP than US Spec Vehicles... With a higher top speed. When you look at the manifold, you can see it's a better piece than the US/JDM unit, hands down!
As for if porting is needed, the first photos on this post show that there are flow restrictions that need to be addressed at the head juncture, as well as proper porting of the turbine inlet housing to match at least.
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You will have to rewire them slightly because they are wired in together on one end, and for Megasquirt they have to be seperated out.
They have a common power wire, with individual ballasted feeds to each injector.
The grouping of the grounds need to be collected separately into two groups of three for INJ1 and INJ2. The power end of the equation is fine, you just move the grounds around for the Megasquirt Application.
The spearation is on the ground side, not the power side---at least that's the way I think I wired mine up two years or more ago....
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Would your buddy be willing to rip them all to digital and share them? The easiest way would be to burn them to CD/DVD then just mail them to me (downloading them all would be ugly).
We kinda had that discussion while I was watching them...
To paraphrase his answer: "No"
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Yeah, if you want to trigger the IGNITON through a software upgrade such as MS-n-S then you will need to modify the dizzy so it doesn't advance---it needs a fixed signal. Most people just swap in the 280ZXT CAS, but removing the advance mechanisim and using a fixed advance plate. Many things will work as Randy Suggests: Magnets in the front pulley, in the flywheel, reluctor of the stock Electronik Dizzy modified for no advance, etc etc etc...
If you are running fuel only, the points distributor with some modifications to the filtering circuit on the tach pickup section of the MS (Dave Capacitor) to use the points trigger for the fueling-only portion is all you need...
if you go with a flying magnet setup, you can use the stock distributor to distribute the spark---you just want to lock the advance mechanisim so you have the ECU controlling advance. One of the advantages of the later 280ZXT Distributors is a redesigned rotor allowing a more consistent rotor-to-cap tower phasing for computer controlled spark. If you use a magnet trigger, the 81 Distributor would be all you needed for that advantage---it's nothing more than a cap and rotor, and fits on the stock distributor drive.
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Just a Note. When we compared the interior diameter of the runners on a STOCK Nissan Eurospec Turbo Manifold (the three-piece unit) they were actually BIGGER than the Tubular Header JeffP had made at South Florida Performance.
None to happy with this revelation, JeffP was in a funk for an extended period over it....LOL
Anyway, the stock Eurospec manifold is very nice, and has the ability to porte almost EVERY part of the manifold due to being a three piece unit. Aside from the addition of the "Spacer-Wastegate" shown above, a little porting by the head for flow and I think it would be the ultimate part...factory cleaned up, cast iron, durable, and easily capable of the exhaust flow required for probably 600 horsepower.
Unfortunately they are NLA from Nissan, so the only way to find one is in a Junkyard on the Continent! Very nice piece if you can get one, though! I believe the proper Nissan Term for it's caasting base metal now would be referred to as "Unobtanium"... Anyone in for casting knockoff pieces out of STanless Steel Scraps in their backyard Casting Blast Furnace? LOL
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Just watched all five episodes on Christmas Day over at "my source". His EP VHS is in way better condition than mine.
Man, the "making of" video is very good, too. There was also an accompanying group of films of "S30-vs-XXX" that were out at the same time using the SSS Blue and White car... But Episode 4 or 5, when they are putting the engine in the car, you realize it's an old Sangyo Kiki Analog EFI system using Two Injectors Per Cylinder on 45mm ITBs...
Ahhh, progress in the matter of six hours of a film serial! LOL
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Thanks' date=' guys. So many questions...
The manifold is a Mikuni piece that was intended for their triple setup. Many of you will note that the Cannon manifold (or similar) is usually considered more desireable, due to its straighter runners. I chose the Mikuni piece simply because it gets the TBs up higher, leaving more clearance for the turbo. BTW, the head flow numbers I quoted before were taken with the manifold, TBs and velocity stacks in place, so I don't think it's hurting me too much.[/quote']
I would contend you have the superior piece of the two. The Cannon and TWM manifold,s while "appearing" straighter, really ARE NOT!
When you section a ported head, especially one that has REALLY been reworked for horsepower and had the ports raised and the floors of the stock intake pocket filled, the Mikuini manifold gives a FAR straighter shot straight down the port to the back of the valve. The port coming away from the head of the intake valve at roughly a 35/40 degree angle, while the Cannon and TWM manifolds are almost 90 degrees to the back of the valve.
For a head that has not been ported that much, it really won't make that much of a difference, but if you have the manifold and head ported together, the Mikuini Manifold with it's THICK walls and 'staggered' inlet and outlet are really a very short, direct, straight shot to the back of the valve. If you are using 45mm ITB's and have the manifold ported to match, it's even straighter.
It was not uncommon on radically ported cars in Japan to have a lot of welding done to the manifolds because of the casting in the Cannon-Style Manifolds being too thin after matching to support much of anything. The Mikuini is rarely welded.
Nah, I think you got the best manifold on there, Tim! Same one I have BTW.
But I hold no bias because of that...at all....LOL ;^)
L6 roller rockers ...
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Anybody else shocked by the fact that with four hours to go on the auction, the bidding on those USED rockers has gone above $250?
Anybody know how much they were new from Malvern when they were being offered?