Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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According to the old "How To Modify" book, they saw no problems until exceeding 100HP per hole.
Then again, Electramotive only said their 83 ZXT was rated at 580hp @ 7500 with 21.6psi of boost....
How did they exceed 100 a hole then?
Muahahahaha! (I know John C knows the answer...)
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I'm going to weigh in on the side of Braap on this one. I ended up going to a (if you can believe this) a 5-Day Seminar sponsored by Fel-Pro's Parent Company. This was in conjunction with the roll out almost 10 years ago of a specialized gasketing compound they were introducing as an OEM item on large Stationary Power Plant Diesels. I didn't think there was so much to be said about gaskets, but suffice to say we spent a day on major types of gaskets they sold, as well as the marketing stuff that always makes it's way into these kind of things.
Anyway, the Print-o-Seal gaskets are (were at the time) the new Miracle Gasket, and they made it very clear that
1) No Compounds Were to be Placed on Mating Surfaces.
2) Surface finish must be compatible (forgive me if I forget the number, but it wasn't a mirror...)
3) Proper Torque Sequence Must be Followed.
There was a lot of stuff about why gaskets fail, these were the top three.
Looks to me like there is some detonation, and I would NOT O-Ring until you get that in hand! All an O-Ring job will succeed in doing is breaking your piston skirts FIRST, then your ring lands, and then your piston crown. Be GLAD your Fel-Pro failed, because if it kept that detonation pressure IN the cylinder, the ONLY place it has to go is towards the piston---and that means breakage.
The 2mm Head Gasket is going to lower compression, so this problem may be masked a bit.
In my case, I used an N42 Block, and an N42 Head with a Fel-Pro Print-o-Seal Head Gasket when I assembled my Blowthrough Turbo Engine in 1987. That engine has seen countless hours of 17psi boost levels. i worked up to that point, first starting at stock boost, then 10, 12, 15, 17.... Tried a few passes at 21 but knew the T3 was already running to it's limits. So I turned back and ran 17 daily commuting and would dial back to 14 during track days during the SoCal heat.
Thusfar (knock on my head) that Fel Pro is still in there and not leaking. I had some ping due to some transitional lean issues dealing with modulator rings being the wrong size after a resizing of the plenum in 1994, but even then, nothing serious.
I have overheated it during a cooling fan failure on the 60 Fwy in Rush Hour, run it lean due to a boost pump failure once, and generally abused it but thusfar it's holding it together. When it comes out and I tear it down, I'm curious to see what happened during all that abuse over the years.
I did run a tad on the rich side (as most carb turbos do) to forestall no detonation, and you may be well advised to do the same. When detonating, something will fail.
My preference is it's the head gasket, and not my pistons!
I digress...
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Just make one. You can thread a setscrew into the A-N fitting, with a drilled orifice in the center of the hex.
Or screw a turned down rochester carb jet in there.
All easily adjustable sizewize with number drills afterwards...
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it was a case of the cigarette lighter was currently powering the laptop, which cut the LM1's powersource out.
Simple answer to that one, get a 2:1 splitter. I get them at truck stops, you can power as many as four low-draw items from one cigarette lighter.
I had splitters on splitters powering reading lights, fans, cel phone, gps, laptop, you name it, on my last cross-country with the Fairlady.
Get a splitter, and use that WBO2!
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How much of an change do you suppose coating the piston, chamber, valves would help?
From a stationary powerplant standpoint, I can answer that question, Moby.
I had a wild hair and spent a bunch of money ceramic coating the exhaust elbows, exhaust port, combustion chamber of the head, including valve faces, and piston crown.
The difference in wastegate position was ASTOUNDING! We ended up overspeeding the turbo past 24,000rpms using the stock 3" diameter wastegate, and had to upsize the unit to 4" to be able to control the turbocharger at the requsite 17,000 rpms to give us our 24psi in the intake manifold.
Our gas consumption on the engine decreased by nearly 20,000 CF/Day---meaning to me, more heat was available to drive the turbine with less BTU's input. I forget the actual heat rate on the engine, but it was CONSIDERABLY lower than the other two units that were not treated to the ceramic coating treatment.
Our exhaust temperatures usually ran in the 1100F range, and the cylinder to cylinder variation also was lower.
So from that testing, I was sold on the benefits of the treatments. How this relates to mobile powerplants may not seem applicable, but you can see there was a decrease on fuel consumption, and that means more efficiency (or probably more aptly less loss!)
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Speaking of blowing up the clutch, the 510 had evidence of the same thing with cracked bellhousing area in several different places.
If you plan on hopping it up, make yourself a scattershield out of some 1/4" X 4" wide strap. You can tweak it using a torch, hammer, and the edge of a bench or anvil. Weld some tabs on it, and use the engine bolts to mount it.
I wish I had a photo of the one we use on the Bonneville Car, but once you see one clutch explode, or flywheel shatter, you run a scattershield. I don't know of a premade scattershield for the L-Tranny---I figure there must be a blanket that is applicable.
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What do u mean by a full exhaust system?
Oh, one with say a premuffler, or even a single muffler.
Especially one with a SEAMED OUTER CANNISTER!
I watched one seamed muffler blow open when there was an exhaust backfire (a bit more violent than what we are talkingabout, but same conditions.)
On another car, too much decel fuel coupled with reignition by getting back on the gas literally blew the muffler off the back of the car!
I watched an BSME decide he was a BSEE one day and decided to disconnect a load sensing transducer in the pneumatic air-fuel ratio control panel while the unit was running under load. His thinking "we'll only disconnect it for a split second" was not applicable to this situation as we told him. He backfired the engine. Now this was a V16 Stationary Powerplant running 24psi boost, producing 2650HP (minimum). 10" bore, 10.5" stroke.
He succeeded in launching a 48" diameter muffler that was almost 10 feet tall over the top of the compressor building, and impaling the baloney cut 24" diameter Schedule 10 stubby pipe in through the parking lots asphalt.
I took some neat photos of it, but they were used in some...uh...legal proceedings after the fact which I can not discuss in much detail.
Flames in the tail pipe can easily be contained and harnessed to concussive detriment to exhaust system componentry. Usually in smaller diameter exhausts, BTW. They don't flow freely enough to spread the flame front out and suppply enough O2 to support a true smooth blue burn. BANG!
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10 psi is where my wife drives the car.
I drive it on "high boost" setting 15+
For 12psi, there will be few troubles! Even with stock turbo injectors if you boost the fuel pressure to 45psi. You may want to source some 440CC or 370CC/min injectors for better pulsewidth on the top end. And they are far from being too big for decent idle.
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I'm assuming shooting flames out the back hella screws up the catalytic converter?
Catalytic Converter? On a 1973? What, are you INSANE MAN?!?!?!!?!?
LOL
No converter here, and piping clean out the back in my 73 to better than CATALYZED 1983 California Standards (I got the Smog Printout to PROVE IT!)
That is the way to do it!
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What motor that was sold on eBay? Can you post a link please?
DAMN! I just deleted the link from "My Ebay" this morning.
I was purportedly a Jim Wolf Built 3.1 Stroker with an HKS Intercooled Turbocharger setup---very 80's Technology, just like the setup in the Wangan Movie on the Devil Z.
Pssssssh! BrmmmmmmMMMMMMPssssssssh!
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Now if I can just figure out which vehicle my drivetrain is set up to look like
Or are all L28's pretty much the same?JDThe L28 clutch setup is the same, it depends on the application and flywheel you are using as to what throwout collar you use. I set up EVERYTHING I have to use a 225mm L28 setup from a 1983 N/A 280ZX.
The stuff I pull off the 240's and 260's with the "long collar" gest used in my L20B powered 510's!
One collar, one clutch cover, one disc, one slave cylinder, one master cylinder. That's all I need to put on my shelf to fix ANY of my cars in the clutch area.
I gotta say, though, the 510 is still working on that huge 225mm 260Z clutch! I don't think it's worn 0.1mm since installation, and then it was used!
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I wouldn't get a p90a for its lifters because its just one more thing to go wrong.
And to beat the dead horse: "NOT ALL P90A's WERE HYDRAULIC LIFTERS!"
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Has any body try to put a intake manfold from a Diesel LD28 on a L28? How did it run, any issue with doing such a thing? I'm just curious.
Yes, I will let them report on the success of the installation.
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my cr is going to be around 8.7:1 . anyone happen to know how much boost i would be able to run with my setup?
All depends on your fueling and your sparking!
To little fuel, BOOM!
To much sparkie advance, BOOM!
This is independent of CR, this goes for any turbo application. Get your fueling right and you will be supreised how high your boost level can go! Without you specifying what flowrate injectors you will be using, nobody can tell you!
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Twinplate new will run around $1500 complete, clutch-cover-flywheel.
Tilton, OS Gikken, Exedy, even 10,000RPM in Lancaster makes a unit.
What kind of torque are you putting out that you are considering a twinplate clutch?
The advantage of a twin or triple plate clutch is that you can stay with organic linings and get far higher holding power---and retain stock-like engagement properties for street usage.
Usually single plate clutches will get balky once you try to pass more than 450ft-lbs through them at the diameters we work with (say maximum 240mm disc diameter).
Twins and triples also usually have lower rotational moments, so some thought to getting the car moving smoothly from a start has to be considered---they are usually not manufactured with a large inertia ring near the flywheel for smooth street starts (10,000 rpm can add this---they make their units "to order").
A rebuild on a triple disc Tilton will run you about $350/400. I have heard similar quotes from others with the OSG unit.
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Given the information available, how many people think the lever on the RIGHT would have a shorter arc of travel at the operator interface (shift lever) because of a longer pivot on the bottom of the shaft?
The way I looked at it, while the total distance moved is 10mm from one gear to "N", if you were at the BOTTOM of the hole, the linear arc you would make would be LONGER with the lever on the RIGHT, than with the lever on the LEFT which sat in the TOP of the hole. (given the same pivot location in the ears)
Same as if you cut the top of the handle down, where you engage that fork lever depthwise will have the same effect, only compounded because of the proximity to the fulcrum point (follow that gibberish).
If you RAISED the pivot hole using the shifter on the RIGHT, so it engaged the fork actuator rod hole to the SAME DEPTH as the lever on the LEFT (when it was in the original pivot hole), you would THEN get a shorter arc at the shift lever end. Given the same pivot, indeed the depth of engagement in the shiftrod hole will alter the throw characteristics. I can go back and measure the available depth of the hole in the fork actuator rod, too!
That should allow us a relative easy modeling formula if we know the dimensions on the available rods, and can predict the throws, and where the pivot would have to be located for optimum advantage.
Ideally I would see that the pivot just in the top of the hole in the fork actuator rod would be optimum placement because the scribed arc for the linear distance travelled would the minimized. This would follow with the post above about relocating the pivot in the ears higher for a shorter shift. This theory on pivot placement in the fork actuator rod would explain that phenomenon. And I'm sure graphically we can replicate it on paper!
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Anyhoo, how do you tune for flames? I'm guessing it would sacrifice performance with such rich spots.
It's easy, Decel Enrichment to 100% on the old Standalone!
It was on speed channel where they interviewed a bunch of mechanics for the WRC. They point blank asked why the turbos shot flames, and to a man, every single one of the team mechanics and engineers said the same thing: "FOR THE FANS!"
They all said since they are not fuel restricted on the short stages they run, the fuel they waste on the "flame show tuning" is not detrimental in the least bit for any of the teams, and "besides, the fans love it!"
One gent said something along the lines of "the fans wouldn't be nearly as enthusiastic if we tuned the flames out, which we can do---easily. We asked what they liked, and they all loved the flames, so we tune 'em big and fat for nice flames!"
So there is no real detriment---unless you have a full exhaust system, because I have firsthand knowledge that you can damn well launch a muffler with raw gas in the exhaust when it ignites!!! LOL
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All I know is that I will be down at Jim Wolf at 8AM Wednesday morning to watch Calrk Tune JeffP's latest build. From Jeff's initial reports he's getting boost spool at 2500rpms...
This should prove interesting!
Man, it better not break, or I will have to justify playing hookey from work, and getting up at 0430 to make the trip down there!!! LOL
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There is a variation of the story I saw in Japan where it started in black and white (eeh, sepia toned) and the subtitle on the bottom of hte screeen was in Japanese, with the year "1972". It was a much smaller child, and when the Z drives through town, it was like nothing anyone there ever saw before...
That may be the beginning of another Z-Related movie...I'm diseased that way...but it then flashes to the current day, and the guy with the clocks waking up to snap photos of the car... Obsessed from the first time he saw the car, as a child in 1972.
Kinda like some people around here! LOL
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Surge is the reversal of flow through a dynamic compressor, done when the minimum flow for the pressure the unit is operating at is exceeded.
It can snap off blades, hammer bearings into dust, and generally ruin a day really quickly.
When it happens severely and repeatedly in large industrial compressors, you get on the horn while it's coasting down after the vibration shutdown. All you can do is listen while you hear the parts rattling around tearing each other up until it finally stops. This can be the longest set of minutes in your life if you're the startup engineer and everybody wants to know what went wrong... LOL
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Yeah, I had an open downpipe for a while, and flames were commonplace.
Cops tend to notice you after dark...
Muahahahahaha!
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Sorry I took so long to respond on the shift detent throws:
For the original "B" Box Four Speed, the linear distance of the fork throw from "N" to 1st and 3rd gears is 10mm. From "N" to 2nd and 4th gears the throw is 10mm. So total 1 to 2 is a 20mm throw. This was measured down inside the shifter extension housing.
For the Early "B" Box Five Speed, the linear distance of the fork throw from "N" to 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears is 10mm. From "N" to 2nd and 4th gears the throw is 10mm. So total 1 to 2 is a 20mm linear throw.
For the Late "B" Box Five Speed (ZX Long Ear), the linear distance of the fork throw from "N" to 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears is 10mm. From "N" to 2nd and 4th gears the throw is 10mm. So total 1 to 2 is a 20mm throw.
So basically the throws are the same internally in the transmission, regardless if they are four speed or five speed, early or late. The hole the little plastic cup goes into is VERY deep, when the pivot cup is bottomed in that hole it can accomodate about 12mm on top of it, so if one were to move the pivot up, and lengthen the short end of the shifter one could have a fairly deep arc and still not bottom out.
With these numbers, and with what you guys have just posted regarding the shifter pivot points, we can easily draw out the diagram of the linkage and determine what will work with what, and how long different legnth bottom sections will affect the upper linkage linear arc throw between gears.
The rod I was using, BTW, was almost bottomed in the hole on all the transmissions I was measuring when the pivot pin was installed. I think it was out of a ZX, as it was really straight.
There you have it!
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Absolutely!
Mr. Gasket makes a displacement tester which is basically a plexiglas tube with graduations on the side and a sliding aluminum plate inside that moves when you crank the engine over on a cylinder with the rocker arms disabled.
This is how displacement is checked at Bonneville and El Mirage in impound after setting a record (as long as your engine is not within 3% of the class maximum).
The shaving of the block and restamping is VERY common in Japan. I had one of those... No 33 plate for you! LOL
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Actually, the stock mainfold and headpipe to front resonator was lighter than the header...
But that goes in the face of internet myth, so it can't be true, eh?
Or are all L28's pretty much the same?JD
7 dyno pulls and 1/4 tank of gas later...
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Did JeffP put in his .02 on this matter? I don't think he will apologize for a rant on that subject! LOL
I don't think those good ole boys there understood the concept of "Stress Relief" at all. There are some things you can do to their design to make it work, but for the effort, you may as well do the whole thing yourself!