Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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You know, I've been thinking aboutthat strap clamp setup. I don't see why you couldn't use shorter "standoffs" of the copper tubing to limit the crush towards the pintile end of the injector, and use a second strap, with no limiting tube, to pull th top of the rail down onto the injector, and tight against the lower strap. This should solidly position the rail from any movement...
Seems so simple, I don't know why it didn't occur to me earlier.
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is anyone working on deciphering an adaptation to the CAS that is block mounted? It's my understanding they have a similar pulse as the CAS in the Dizzy, just done with hall effects, then conditioned and shaped to square-wave signals in the unit itself. Maybe I will take that spare O-Scope JeffP was talking about and see what that thing puts out...
Anyone? Anyone?
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Heck Randy, you're EFI right? So it goes to prove the fact: Carbs or EFI, HP is HP and when you USE it, you all get the same mileage!
I feel better that somene else is happy and proud to say they got 5mpg in their car!
I have managed to break into single digits on EVERY car I have owned, including a Geo Metro. I surmise Fun Per Mile is inversely porportional to Miles Per Gallon!
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someone needs to enroll in Basic Measurment Techniques for SPC in Manufacturing 101...
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I bought the MS for $110 as a kit. It took me five hours to assemble.
I bought the Relay Board Kit for $45, it took me about 1 hour to assemble.
I bought the latest Megaview so I could do final tuning without a laptop, it was $100something I think, but I have not assembled it yet.
The DB37 communication cable from the MS to the relay board in the engine bay took me about three hours all told to get to my liking, cost was neglible, I think the ends cost me $9 each or soemthing like that.
Oh yeah, and I bought the stimulator/simulator box as a kit for $45, and took me half an hour to put together.
For the price, there is NOTHING that will touch it!
Then again, I stepped in whole hog, and bought three of everything, as there are several vehicles that really need EFI to be more daily-driver friendly!
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I'll add my .02 here.
The O-ring is not sealed by the crush of something pushing the rail from the backside towards the pintile end.
It is a static seal. The rail only needs to be held immobile in relation to the O-ring when it is compressed and in the rail, on the injector. You should be able to rotate your injectors when they are installed before tightening down the Nissan Clamps.
I can rotate mine.
Anyway, while that clamping method shown looks functional, it seems it would put a lot of crush-stress on the body of the injector. Even if the aluminum tubing holds the crush off, what keeps the rail positioned (from moving closer to the pintle end of the injector)? I can see how it keeps the rail from blowing OFF the ends of the injectors, but what keeps it from going too far ONTO the injectors?
Normally the rail is positioned with a block to the manifold, that tightens the rail onto the injectors, but stops it before there is too much crush on the injectors. On those setups, I can rotate the injectors. They are totally static sealed, floating on the O-Rings (good for visco-elastic frequency dampening!) with no stress on the Injector Bodies at all.
At least after reading this, it all makes sense what the hullabaloo was about...
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I'll add my name to the list of "Megasquirters". Installing a setup modeled off the great and all powerful Mobythevans latest spark-n-squirt post (thanks for the stickie!)
I really suggest you go to the site and cruise around Pamos, and you will see how seriously foolish you look making the statement that it sounds like someone pushing a product.
This is called "word of mouth"! Go to the yahoo forums site and watch the record of monthly site traffic, and you will see that it is a user-supported device.
Everybody there helps everybody else simply because most of us have been around since V1.0, and have watched the bugs get debugged, watched more come up, and watch them get solved by everybody pitching in. It is this camaraderie that leads to the EVANGELICAL FERVOR of those involved with the systems. There are plenty of writups and photos in the MS galleries on their sites. The one that sticks out in my mind is a Green and White VW Microbus that resides in Long Beach CAlifornia AND HAS PASSED CA SMOG TESTING!
You want a enthusiastic supporter, TALK TO THAT GUY!
There are people in the UK IMP club talking how they were at a car show doing brodies on the tarmac, causing quite a stir in the Sumbeam and Hillman community. Soon after his little display ther was a flood of Imp owners buying MS for their little cars.
And then there's Rick Yaocucci, who on his homebuilt Megasquirt has set countless Land Speed Records in his Turbo-Busa Motored Streamliner (which has been timed at Bonnevill at over 300mph!)
Yeah, if it can support 619HP at 10,500rpm on a 1350CC Busa Motor, it think it will work JUST FINE on my desired output in the 300HP range form an engine almost 2.5 times as large.
This Project has been an open and free exchange of information from day one. See if you get that from you local Electromotive, Motec, or Haltech distributor.
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well let's hope Gary and the crew keep their promise on delivery of the new system.
I like their DCOE throttle bodies, make for an easy bolt-on for people who already have a manifold and air box setup.
It goes to show you that the Datsun is still a propular engine shoice if they are tooling up for a production run. Maybe they understand with the competition from Auzzie Sources that they have to keep something new on the plate.
I wish they had followed through with their SU Conversion Package. Would have saved me the trouble withthe leaking fuel rails on the injectors I'm installing in the float bowls of my Flat-Tops...
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Looks like I will be buying a couple of GM Modules.
I found a 77 Dizzy in the shed today, so that looks like an easier install than trying to figure out that 81CAS down by the harmonic damper...
So it begins...
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WOOHOO! That's the info I needed! You da man Moby!
I'm off to download the files now. And off to autozone for that "hot spark" GM chip!
Thanks a million!
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Moby,
Have you posted the interface between the Turbo Distributor and that GM module? That would alter the equation on what I'm currently doing with my Turbo Z being I have 2 83 turbos to choose from, and one 81....I was going to use the 81 with the conventional dizzy drive with the MSD and BTM for control, but if the spark timing is available from my second altered MS box, firing a GM HEI module (what, like $39?) attached to the stock coil and transistor, I may go back to that setup---especially if you like the results you are getting!
And am I reading you right that you have downloaded the ignition portion of the program to the SAME MS unit you are using for the fuel, utilizing the idle output to fire the ignition? If this is the case, I am THERE if it will all fit in one box! I don't want to use up my spare just for spark when I can get MSD boxes for under 110$...
On an aside, I called my original 91 Chevy G30 Van "MobyVan"--I miss that as a tow vehicle...no speed limiter!
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On my black car, I averaged 17mpg during daily commuting duites (carburetted blowthrough).
I was rather proud that I could get as low as 5mpg when I stayed on the boost at track events...
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to run decent times with the MS you need about $200 and about an hour of tuning.
This is why anyone with one talks raves about it. I suspect many people who have paid 5 to 10X that for the processor alone just have heartburn that they possibly overbought.
Good times with a Z are somewhat more a function of tires and setup than a complex Fuel Delivery Scheme. A case in point would be Norm's 12.90's on SU's.
For the PRICE, the MS is VERY hard to beat. Have you ever gone to the MS board and looked at the "it runs" listing. There are plenty of them out there worldwide. Most who use them are more interested in getting a driving running vehicle day to day, than boasting about their numbers.
And Rick's Turbo Busa motor is in a Streamliner, not a bike. And 313mph is a bit more impressive to me than quarter mile performance. You can run 12.50 on a Crown Kit and a Holley four bbl in a 240 all day long---that in itself is not really all that hard to do. Richard's Z/ZX service had a low 11 second car with that setup in 1980.
Anyway, I can think of at least a dozen Z'ers who have this setup, and who are very low-key. I am currently debating wether I will use MS (since Rick's Success at Bonneville) on my S130 Bonneville car, or wether I should buck-up for something a damsite more expensive, for the simple addition of spark mapping.
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"I am going to poo poo this one. Where are people running astounding times using a megasquirt?
I am just under a rock, or do we have people running mid 12's with them?
Just curious."
Well, lockjaw, is 313mph fast enough for a megasquirt powered vehicle, or how about 619Hp at 10,000 rpm on a Turbo Busa Motor?
Take a look at:
Rick has successfully garnered several Land Speed records with his Megasquirt Fueled Turbo Busa Powered Streamliner.
Going 313mph+ makes 12's look way weak.
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As I stated earlier, the result of the kit installation is that the 2-Litre 6 cylinder performed similarly to an N/A L28.
For my money, I would simply get an L20ET and install it, or better yet, an L28ET which will outperform this kit out of the box.
As with any kit from the period, fabrication will be required for installation. They were designed for shops to install, not the guy on the corner bolting-stuff onto his ride.
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JG Engine Dynamics in Alhambra CA did some dyno tests on BONE STOCK 280ZXT's in the late 80's. Without exception, the cars stopped making HP after 10psi. You could turn up the boost further, but it didn't make any more HP.
So Tysons claim of 10psi being the limit for a STOCK system is reinforced by Javier's testing done on his in-shop Clayton dyno in 89, 90, and 91.
Group Z did a dyno day there in 9X (90 something...) and most of the ZXT's were running 10psi, when they turned it up more, no more HP resulted, so "what was the point"...
That RRFPR really helps when you start going over 10psi. The ECU just isn't mapped beyond there, since the stock boost limiting relief valve usually pops off around 9-10 psi. If you have a limiting device installed, why map the ECU higher?
Tweak this, tweak that, all bets are off!
Then again, a Megasquirt...
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My N/A L28 EFI motor (76 California System) dynoed at 147hp to the wheels.
Given weight and E.T./MPH most web "1/4 dynos" put the number of my engine at 202hp @ the crank. So the truth of the numbers runs somwhere in between! The plate syas X, and actual applications show something else, but close enough for the "correction factors" everybody is fond of using.
Now the terrible truth is that it's an 81 engine with 186,000 miles in a 75, with a 76 manifold and EFI bits. So is it supposed to have 145HP, or 170? Given my 147 Dynojet run, it's dead on. Given the 170 number for the 76, then you add that "correction factor" and it should be 180something, which is darned close to the factory rating of 170...
All that matters is that it runs, and it bests most stock Hondas, eh! LOL
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I have one of the earlier versions of that kit I harvested while in Japan.
It usually is for the L20A version Fairlady Z---it was intended to give L28 N/A performance, but with more torque.
It works fairlay well, but as it is an 80's kit, reallys is limited by todays standards: fuel enrichment is via resistors on the cold-start circuit tripped by Hobbs Pressure switches.
For a "period modification" the appeal is killer. If I didn't have one already for my L20A, I might consider it for my L28 Fairlady with a turbo upgrade.
Now come to think of it, my kit has the blowoff valve incorporated into the "SK Turbo" part of the piping, so maybe this is an older version.
I will say the cast iron adapter kicked butt on anythign Crown ever offered here in the states. The adapter for the turbo is quite nice. My kit has a Hitachi Turbo, also---not sure by his photos what kind it is in his kit.
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...that sounded familiar, Bob!
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"Pickup" in American English means "Ute" in Downunder English!
Yes, the Titan is going to take on the American Utes full-on. I think Nissan is conservatively rating this to market better against the market segment leader, the Ford F150 (or "Lobo" for our friends in Mexico...)
This should be good. I can't wait. A Titan is supposed to be available at our car show next weekend out in Temecula. Unfortunately I will be owrking that day, so I told my wife to take a LOT of photos.
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Most people end up raplacing the "BOV" with a 1" pipe plug anyways. You will for sure if you are going for 350hp...
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my black car was similar, and found that by cycling my fans on a bit earlier (before thermostat was fuly opened) I could flow more than enough air over the radiator to bring the temp within limits.
The problem with thermostats is that the rating you get is only an approximation.
They crack around the temp listed, but are not FULLY open using total radiator cooling capacity until at least 10 degrees higher than what is stamped on them.
Ergo, a 190 thermostat is actually a 200, and a 160 actually a 170.
I have had good results on the early cars with a 160 thermo, and on FI cars with the 160 or 170 depending on if the sensor is tracking where it should be. For a stock EFI system, as long as you get near 177 degrees, all the "cold start enrichments" should be either totally off the ECU's map, or darn near off!
Technically 200 is not "hot" but with the propensity of Nissan Aluminum to dance at that temperature, I'm more comfortable with a max temp of 190, and I get that with a 160 or 170 'stat as referenced above (which is actually a 170 and 180 full-open device)
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Shane,
I was just at tehir website last evening looking for the SU Throttle Bodies they manufacture, and downloaded the price list. Seems to my recollection the total manifold and triple TB setup was $3480.
The injectors go in the Throttle Body, though, not the manifold. You can use any manifold like the mikuini or cannon, but the pre-fab fuel rail may not line up. Making a fuel rail is worth it in my mind since I have triple manifolds hanging out my butt, and paying 648 bucks or the like for another shiny new one is out of my scope of sane thought...
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I posted above, before seeing this post. Apparently there ARE Megasquirters here...
Soon my kits will arrive, and then I can be a contributor.
More pointless posts. Im going to hibernate. Ill be Back!
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
yeah, I just saw the other view and realized you were using the injector mounting screws to mount the rail.
I thought they were going to the manifold directly. My attempt was to say make an "H" shaped setup, using the same strap you have on the top to still pull it down. The standoff tubing would position the rail a set distance from the manifold, and the same strap (bar, whatever...) you have now on top would let the bar pull down onto the crossbar of the "H", positioning it both top and bottom.
But since you are using the stock injector bolts, that isn't possible since the injector is there.
maybe a stouter piece of sluminum with a small teat that engages the bottom of the rail...
I have some O-Ring injectors I will probably be mounting in a stock EFI manifold, but that's a ways off...
I would think a "Lazy S" bracket from the two stock fuel mounting brackets tapping into the bottom of the rail would work out.
I think JeffP has a photo on his website like that. I know he recently went from hose to O-Ring injectors I believe.
Till then...