Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I added the full exhaust to mine right now, so I can troubleshoot with out fear of a backfire throwing a ball of flame out the downpipe!
I also harvested another stock coil setup and may try that before hooking up the scope to start checking the interferences.
I will double-check the .inc files, I'd not thought of that, but the in-car gauge is reading fairly cool too, so maybe it's just running cold. I can't remember if I installed a 160 degree thermostat or not... May have to pull that and check it again. Normally I stamp the thermostat temp on the housing for later reference, and this one has no stamings leading me to believe it's still the junkyard thermo in there---which should be 190 or thereabouts.
Then again, with the wrong .inc files it may be off, but as my recollection, even without the bias resistor changes, the differential between bosch and GM sensors was not that great. Come to think of it, the inlet air temp shows 103 to 131 depending on what I'm doing, so I'd be inclined to think it was correct....
More checks I guess. On the other hand, at least I'm home for the next two weeks at least, so I can play in the evenings and try to get some more accomplished. If nothing else, install the new junkyard interior so it at least looks decent....
Thanks for the update Bryan! I'm off to install the slave cylinder and master so I can move it now. Screw it! If it runs, I'm gonna at least TRY to drive it so I regain some semblance of self-esteem by saying "it moves" at least!
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WD40 is a simply MISERABLE and USLESS penetrant. It is terrific for it's originally designed usage (Water Displacement) but for this kind of work, you may as well hit it with a rock! LOL
Try finding some PB Blaster locally, if you cant find Sili-KROIL. It's manfactured by Kano Industries, and comes in an orange can. I only use WD for sparkplug wires, cleaning stuff after steam cleaning, and spraydown of blocks after caustic cleaning and water rinse...
I use KROIL for everything I used WD for before being similarly enlightened. You don't know how well penetrating oil really works until you find some! You will never used WD again for penetrant after using Kroil or PB Blaster.
You might search Google for Kroil or Kano Industries. PB Blaster is sold in PepBoys and Autozone now I believe. It was hard to find before, but recently has been marketed a bit more effectively. Hurrah for the Justice Brothers for finally marketing it better (same people who brought us JB Weld I believe...)
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Ditto what Sleeper Z said: I have had my CFDF setup since 91 with 250ft-lbs+ of torque, with no problem at all.
Break in is critical, and as long as the power stays below 300hp, you should be o.k. with a Centerforce.
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KROIL!
I took mine out with Kroil, letting it sit undisturbed overnight.
That let it break free.
You may want to remove the downpipe casting, and clamp it in a vise so hooking on a pipe wrench to extract it would be a bit easier...
If that fails, heat the casting area around it red-hot with a torch, and quench the sensor in water, or KROIL, and try again. They can be a real bear sometimes.
If you booger the threads, you can use an 18mm Sparkplug Thread Chaser to clean up the mess.
Good Luck Man...
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"Burt Ward" was Robin.
He lives off Sixth Street in Norco CA, and runs a Great-Dane Rescue Shelter.
Please, I don't even want to admit why I know this... But Burt is a goodhearted guy. Even an old celebrity doesn't get a break from "Code Enforcemet " morons in Riverside County!
I worked as an extra in one of the Steven Segal movies, he was a bit arrogant, and my instructor and I got kicked off the set after making some wise-alek remarks about him getting choked out by Gene Labelle. He's very sensitive about that little incident.
Gene Labelle, was a great guy---always a joker, and would give you one heck of a nougie (even grown guys!) He played in many films as a ringside referee. They called him "Judo Gene Labelle" an old Pro Wrestler (and olympic judo dude to boot) that made good with bit parts in movies as well as making a bit off "instructional videos" relating to the martial arts.
Thought I would spout on this one when I found it...
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Don't feel too bad, for almost a year straight, I got e-mails like that filling up my excite box (the one linked to my ZCar.com username).
I publically said I was "leaving the forum" and the mails stopped.
Similar addresses: "admin.@z.car.com@yahoo.com", etc etc etc...
Obviously a bogus return address
it was a group of three or four guys using freeservers (hotmail, yahoo, excite, etc) with free boxes, and obviously a LOT of time on their hands as they would fill up a 3mb mailbox sometimes twice daily with innane messages at least as foul as what you have enclosed here.
Sometimes they would address a question to me, and when I foolishly replied thinking I was assisting someone, I would get similar replies "Oh, you think you are so f----smart! You are nothing but a punka-- b---- with no life...blah blah blah...." You get the idea. Blocking the sender only made it worse.
There always will be morons on the internet. They shrivel up and slink away when confronted in person. I hope I never find out for 100% sure who it was who had the campaign against me. I would probably become irrational in their presence. Violently so...
Shrug it off, they are not worth your time. If they continue, keep copies, and report them to local police---death threats are taken seriouslythese days. Especially over the internet, and when done by obviously troubled teenagers...
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OK, so let me get the facts on this straight (from the little clip).
This group of guys was looting. Stealing wood.
As a result of their getting caught in the act of looting, they get scolded for bringing a kid along with them instead of putting him into school, and their car gets crushed.
Later, while being interviewed, one complains "I'm a Taxi Driver, and the car was my livelyhood."
That's it, right?
Well, I guess Mr. Taxi-Driver should spend more time taking fares around instead of using his vehicle to transport and aid looters.
This is indeed a "kinder and gentler" service that I was in---I guess this punctuates the difference between "War" and "Police Action".
During a time of war and occupation, with civilian population being governed by martial law, the standing order for looters was (twenty years ago at least...) SHOOT ON SIGHT!
Now it's a scolding and lesson they likely won't forget.
The only problem I have with the clip is that there was no reason to shoot the vehicle, and were they in my charge, the ammo would have either been expended into the LOOTERS, or the car simply crushed. It's a waste of ammo, and my tax dollars.
Given the duty they are tasked with, I think the looters got off easy, and the chaps in the armored vehicle did what they thought best at the time.
Second guessing a situation like that is severely counterproductive, and the general tone of the posts calling these guys names shows a gross disregard for the facts quietly stated in the clip.
I wonder if theri orders really WERE shoot all looters on recognition, and they instead did this.
That would seem a more humane action than shooting them.
Or perhaps because there was a child with them, they knew they would NOT be shot, and therefore thought they could loot with impunity.
This is not the USA, it is a warzone under martial law. Our rules of neighborhood conduct for our local constables do not apply there.
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If you can get "worm needles" or large gauge hypodermic needles and syringes (not the insulin stuff) use that to inject it into the little recesses nice and neatly, as well as injecting it into the backside of the intact boots on the back of the connectors.
While wiring the megasquirt, I cannibalized an wiring harness where I had THOUGHT I had scrupulously cleaned the connections. And they were clean from what you could see looking at them.
But on the backside of the connection where the wires are CRIMPED to the pins in thefactory harness---they were positively GREEN!
So when I built up the MS herness, the backs of the new injector boots got a dose of the dielectric grease, too!
It works really well on high-amperage connections like headlights! Especially when submerging the nose of the vehicle
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But the REAL question:
Did mounting your HEI module like mine cause noise in the system where you had none before?
My relay box gets warm, but not above 140 while running.
I would be happy toget rid of the jumping tach so I COULD tune...
My idle time now is overthree hours, and goes fine, just has the tach, and now it's not keeping the constants.
I am thinking about bribing JeffP to come over and scope it, and make a final solution. Possibly a clamping diode across the coil, or something.
I still don't understand the interference happening while the car is not running.
Until then, I am concentrating on refitting the interior bits and gettign the headlights installed, stuff like that.
I have given up until I can hook a scope to it.
Maybe that will point a finger!BTW, what does your CHT sensor read after warmup? Mine hovers around 160 degrees, and never seems to get much hotter sitting at idle...
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Little bit of advice:
Get yourself a tube of dielectric grease, and RIGHT after you clean the connections, apply it so air can NOT get to them afterwards.
You will be very pleasantly suprised how much longer the "clean job" lasts.
I cleaned mine three years ago on the Fairlady 2+2 (super green connections, so bad I bought new connectors---to replace them "when I had trouble in a few months"---but still haven't had to install them! Over 20K miles ago!)
Hope this keeps you running a bit longer between cleaning intervals. I have this stuff at work for industrial severe condition connections, so I figured "WTF" doing headlight connections some years ago, and afterwards started doing it on EVERY electrical connection and my bugs have decreased exponentially!
I have actually submersed the nose of a car (by accident I assure you!) and didn't short anything. I was as amazed as my wife was, I can say that!
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what you want to do is run it from the thermostat housing, and back to the inlet fitting on the water pump (where the stock water bypass hose goes). Basically, if I recall the circuitry, it goes from the thermostat housing, to the throttle body, to the fast idle bypass line, (then to the turbo) and then across the front of the block to the water line that bypasses to the inlet of the water pump. It's already got the fitting, and is in the same fitting as the heater hose return.
This ensures water flow, even after shutdown through thermal siphon---which is when you need it most.
You can remove as many of the components as you like (the TB heater is usually removed) but the circuitry is already there, just gotta know how to hook it in, and all the piping is there.
For mine, I went to Autozone, and asked if they would let me look through their moulded hose rack, and found some very nice moulded 3/8 heater hoses to go on top of the manifold from the parts I still had installed, and utilized factory fittings---so it looks factory. I used stubs from a Z31 turbo coolant lines to hook up to my stocker turbo W/C center section. This is also where I copied the turbo coolant lines' circuitry from, BTW!
Digicam took a dump before I did this mod, so I don't even have a photo I could e-mail you!
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Anyone fit a Toronado Driveline to a Civic yet?
I helped with a similar conversion to a 69 Beetle once.
Yes, I am truly diseased. Driving "kamakazi crapwagons" in the Detriot area in the early 80's was not the most popular thing to do, and I know what it's like to be in the "ricer" catagory---I guess today they would call me "O.G. Ricer!".
I agree fully with the original post. Bravo.
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Oh EXCELLENT point Nic! I keep harping on another site about being close to peak torque. My mileage quoted was in an L28 powered car with an early five speed and a 3.90 TOWING A TRAILER at about 3500rpm steadily. (You figure out that speed LOL) Anyway, the lowest I got with that setup was 22mpg---but that wasn't with O2 feedback, it was on an early EFI system.
The 260 got much better fuel economy, but of course it wasn't towing 800# and didn't have three people in it!
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stop n go kills mileage. the biggest gains are when you drive steady for long distances.
I get 17 around town regularly, and when I took the Z cross-country was amazed that I could hit 26mpg if I drove sanely. Matter-of-fact, the LOWEST mileage I got on the whole trip during highway driving was 19mpg while I averaged 102mph over 1100 miles from Oglalla NE to Grand Rapids MI. So when my in-town mileag combined is 17, that gives you some indication of what you are up against compared to highway cruising!
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This is the text from a post recently at ZC.C that shows some interesting "debunking" numbers:
Author: Z boy (---.rh.psu.edu)
Date: Mar 21, 6:35pm
results assuming frontal area of 22 square feet, .45 drag coefficient and standard airpressure of 14.7 psi
hp frontal cd speed
150 22 0.45 129.3558304 (stock Z body/engine configuration)
200 22 0.45 142.3745137
300 22 0.45 162.9781336 (see how adding HP helps)
400 22 0.45 179.3806468 (even more but not so much more?)
286 22 0.35 174.41845 (stock Z with headlight covers, GNose, Bellypan, Radiator blockoff)
286 22 0.38 169.7021086 (stock Z with headlight covers and G-Nose OR stock S130 coachwork factory stock...)
345 22 0.45 170.750488 (a comparison number)
pumped out on the lovely MS Excel.
numbers match up pretty well i think
-z boy-
The link is:
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Xander have you uploaded your MS fuel tables for your 260?
I have an N/A project in the works, and it will probably stay N/A---so far I have Sim's L28 maps, but nothing form a 2.6.
Did you upload the stuff to the MS site. I would also be interested to see how your performance increases with the MS-n-S on your already proven MS setup on your vehicle. (As I am with Sim's Progress!)
If I ever get back home, I look forward to trying out my ground troubleshooting to fire off the 260 ZT 2+2 again!
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Sounds cool! A "250ZR" better than the one Nissan Made!
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and so it begins, the transformation to the dark side, muahahaha....
You just can't stand having that 250Kpa MAP in there, and and not using but half it's capabilities---that's the root of all this, isn't it Sims!
Good Luck on the turbine, I am going with one as suggested like this whenever the stock unit (and it's spare) craps out on my 74 260Z 2+2 Turbo MS-n-S vehicle.
The Black 240Coupe I have will get the last-spec turbo before JeffP did his final upgrade.
The Bonneville car, will have something altogether different, and I doubt it will be very streetable, muahahaha!
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mmmmmm, this is helpful. I can conceptualize it in my head now given that starting point...
I will like to try when I get home...if I ever get home to play on the darned thing sometime this MONTH!
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100HP/Litre on his last dyno runs before Bonneville last year.
At the rear wheels, Normally Aspirated.
L28 bored .040", L28 Crank, no stroker.
Built in his home garage.
EFI makes it idle nice...
wow, I can log in again....
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Factory ZXT Engine Oil Cooler uses an SAE 45degree flare fitting with -8 (1/2", 12mm) Hose.
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go over to Z Car.com, search the tech archives for Ian's post on how to do the interconnect. The wire to wire information is all there and if you follow his instructions, it will run on the first go.
FAQ here might be a good place to start, too.
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I doubt you don't have a need for coolant overflow: what happens when the radiator cap lifts?
There is where you need to connect the overflow bottle.
You are swapping in the standard pedal cluster, to actuate your clutch, right? Teh clutch switch should be there and with the FSM you should be able to find the wires to hook up.
You can also use the nuetral/park wires from the tranny on the switch attached to the clutch pedal.
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Pump in epoxy through the water passages as a sealant against incomplete welds, and porosity. This is what the outfit I mentioned above does---this is for when they "metal stitch" water jackets together...if they can fix a water passage with 10-32 bolts securing 1/4-20 bolts lockstitched together, welding sealants should be a cinch.
Afterwards, heat the whole thing to 200 degrees and pressure test it by immersion, and youre done.
The headbolt should hold the respective parts together fine---I have an idea how the welding would be done by me, but it would require a lot of machine work to the combustion chamber, etc.. but that would be something that I would be secure in knowing had 100% structural integrity as if the thing was cast that way from the fac tory.
Cutting little windows on the outside to aqccess the inner parts is a good plan---but I would use more than 1/4 working space, and just weld the externals back in in chunks. Looks like hell, but you will have an easier time of it doing the welding.
Also figure a way to purge the internals really well with shield gas so you could really run a long electrode out in front of hte cup, and not worry about not shielding the internals that well. and make sure your waterjackets are acid-washed CLEAN!
Keep us posted. Love those photos, hi-speed at work is great!
Triple Mikuni and Weber's Linkage Same???
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
depends on the manifold. If you are on a Cannon, yes, they are the same.
I did as the other poster did: I went cable. Install a quadrant, modify the throttle pedal by bending slightly, and removing the ball so it accepts a 200SX throttle cable assy, and swapping intakes and such is easy....