Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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JeffP did his by taper-milling the turbo to match the exit (which, yeah, is only about 2.5") and then continuing the internal taper to a relatively short, somewhat conical adapter than had a 3" V-Band Clamping flange on it. From there down it was all 3" mandrel bends. I want to say it only came out maybe (MAYBE) 1/2" or so before the 3" V-Band Flange was on ther.
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Click, CTRL Arrow Up up up up
Click, CTRL Arrow Up up up up
Click CTRL Arrow Dn down down down....
"Carbs Are Easy" says the man who's never tuned one!
Hello, Megasquirt!
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The on-boost enrichment can be accomplished conventionally with larger jets...but the use of 'modulator rings' at the carb inlet between the box and the carb will allow you to tailor when you get enrichment, and not really need larger main jets.
The pressure differential that exists in the venturi sucks (some would say pushes) fuel from the float bowl through emulsion tube, past the corrector jet and into booster venturi. Your mixture depends on the float measurement holding the fuel level in the jet well consistent.
If the float bowl isn't vented, you can literally push air back into the fuel bowl!
Using Modulator rings AFTER YOU HAVE A GOOD JETTING BASELINE AS AN N/A (say you have a 44 mm carb, with 38 mm main venturi) you start with a ring maybe 5% larger than your main venturi... so with this instance, 40mm and put it between your surge box and the carb inlet. Running at lower airflows there is no disruption of airflow. Everything functions fine.
But as your rpms increase and boost flows more air...you get a differential across the modulator ring as it enters the main throat of the carb. The Main venturi still functions as normally, but now what you have is this LITTLE BITTY difference in air pressure (faaaaaaaar under even 1/4 psi!) between the pressure that exists in the plenum (and therefore the float bowl) and the throat of the carb. What effect this has is the fuel level is depressed slightly in the main fuel bowl, and raises higher in the jet well. It sounds counterintuitive but it acts like a higher float level setting. You are basically using what was before atmospheric pressure now using boost to push the fuel into the venturi at a greater rate. This makes the fuel easier to get into the booster/main venturi and thereby richens the mix under boost. No larger jet needed that affects cruise and even in some cases low boost operations. But once the flow really starts going, the enrichment comes on...and the more flow, the more enrichment you get.
The smaller the ring you have, the earlier it comes on, and the higher the enrichment level will be as flow increases. You will never use a ring smaller than booster diameter. The larger the ring, the later the enrichment occurs, and the less of a slope the enrichment takes.
You have to experiment with the size of the ring to get the diameter you need for the correct on-boost enrichment.
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David, I just sent you the link to the Deregistration for Export Copy Service.
If you would, Post up what you get so others can see if you decide to get the copy.
After that is up, I will likely make the link public with your photos for reference.
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Not on ALL manifolds.
SOME have that feature.
MANY do not. It makes it a PITA to get individual idle mix right with a balance tube. You need to isolate it when doing individual cylinder idle mix / balancing, and then reconnect when done.
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Carburettors operate on pressure differential. If you don't equalise the pressure at the entry of the carb, with that on the float bowl, it makes your fuel level move all around. Early cars did not have that vent, if your filter clogged, you choked the engine out. Choke Playes do the same thing. That's why PHH's don't have a "choke lever" they have a "starting circuit" which performs the same function but in a slightly different way.
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Cheaper than a single newspaper ad back in the day, and you get to do it all year for that amount!
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"because the owner who sold it to me had no idea about the build."
I'm sure you realize the Sarcastic Reply to that is self evident! LOL
84 or 88, it really doesn't matter--retention of the earlier harness, without the ability to use the diagnostic function really kind of hamstrings the easy way to go about this.
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I had 265's up front and a Momo Wheel...that MSA Auto-X at Pomona.... My hands were shot, stopped counting after 28 passes... I pulled out of line and by that time you were literally making a run and getting in line behind 4-6 cars at staging. With three cars on the course at any given time...it was almost like the drive from the timing box to the start line was just a technical low speed section...
Man, Power Steering would have been nice that day!
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I just split a brake line down the side with a razor blade and lined the hole
Clear aquarium hose is really classy...
Gaps are readily sealed with steel wool and silicone... Beats wrapping a whole roll of electrician's tape on there to make a plug!
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"The car runs and drives fine but the AFR's read 11-11.8 at idle, partial throttle cruising, and WOT. Every so often they jump to 14 during high vacuum but only for a split sec."
That's just too rich. That's Clark's safe default for on-boost, and limp-home. Get up to like 3,000 rpms in 5th gear and let your foot off the gas, coast back to 2,100 or so...note what the AFR does and report back...if you don't see evidence of fuel cutoff on decel...you're in limping home mode.
Plug into the Consult Port and download the codes. It will direct you where the sensor error lies. If you hacked the earlier ECCS harness, and didn't swap ver the Z31 harness...you can ask yourself "why did I do that?"
That 11:1 is your problem, it's wrong for a car at idle, it's wrong for a car at light cruise, it's wrong for decel from speed in gear.
My bet is a a sensor is completely unplugged, has corroded terminals, or has an issue whereby the signal is not returned to the ECU...just like any 81-83 system. Which I'm assuming is the harness you're using since it's a 1-Wire O2 sensor and not the Z31 Three-wire (why bother with the ECU swap if you retain an unheated sensor!!!!????)
Swap a 30 year old ECU into a hacked 31 year old harness: "some upgrade"! Welcome to the first logic steps towards true standalone--and proper harness rework! Good Luck!
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When the shooting starts, everybody will wonder why.
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There should be a capillary tube sensing evaporator temperature and it's adjusted to 35F, it controls the cycling of the pump.
If you use later components, incorporation of a low pressure or high pressure cutout switch in the compressor pump circuit is a simple series connection in basic form.
If you use relays on the switches, the same interrupt features are possible, but you can illuminate a light then to indicate low suction pressure, or high discharge pressure.
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That schematic is for an autobox? Bypass to cooler for maximum residence time and cooling for minimum mix. Good.
I'd filter it all coming out of the pump. You get metal bits, they land in the filter and not in your expensive thermostat valve, cooler, or anything else!
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A mechanical fuel pump won't cut it. Viscosity and temperature will fail it if it even pumps at all.
Get a proper oil pump, they sell them at Pegasus if you don't want the Nissan Parts.
30 minute track sessions are not stressing anything. If they are, your setup is severely deficient.
As detailed elsewhere, running for a tank of gas at 85mph+, stopping for 20 minutes to gas up, and repeating 6-7 more times in a day is where something like this gets considered. (They were STOCK FITMENTS on Nissan's producing 200Hp or more in Europe where road horsepower requirements would make sure the power of the engine was actually used.) those drives are more akin to endurance racing, an animal very different than a 30 minute track sprint. I have put 18,000 miles on a Z in three weeks time, and using far less hours than you would think. That got the differential hot enough to melt the plastic breather right off...how much further behind was the tranny?
That kind of heat is not good for lubricants designed to run in 180-240 range.
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Give me Dead Goat Soccer on Horseback ANY DAY over David Cassidy. Spamalot is gone, Vegas is dead to me now!
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Managing the Tau layer is what the OEM's spend their time on. Keep it constant and it's like it doesn't exist. But an increase in airflow increases it's evaporation into the airstream causing transient richness or other manifestations until metering catches up to the airflow change/load change.
Put it in chamber, it doesn't exist! Resultant problems eliminated, tuning now spot-on without delay on puts and injected volumes!
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And the problem is what, exactly?
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Second vote for E30.
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You shorten the driveshaft, not move the engine.
The engine mounts are identical, the fan clearance issues people un into are due to changes in the fans, not where the engine is mounted.
The tranny is longer, but the mounts are in the same place. Unless you have something like a real early car with the funky spring mount. On a 73-83, it's pull it - swap the fan, and drop it in the other.
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Oh, the reason they do it is because Afghanistan doesn't have a good testing facility...
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Like they say: there are those that do, and those that criticize...
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There is a reason every manufacturer in the world runs their prototypes up the Baker Grade, through the low country in Death Valley, and in a continuous loop during the hottest parts of summer.
Generally oil will lead water slightly. Watch when your oil reaches that temperature, and you should see a correlation between rise of the water as the engine warms. Once stasis is reached between heat input and rejection it will stabilize until something upsets the equilibrium.
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Not just emissions, but drivability and fuel economy as well. It also makes it easier to tune.
I'd have to see the 'fuel economy' argument better documented, never seen that contention.
Tuning and drivability is related to tau layer, which directly relates to emissions as well. As John says, the move to direct injection eliminates all the bugaboos of atmospheric injection---but at this point is not practical for home conversions.
240z and 260z transmission tunnel the same?
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
The way this is addressed in JDM is these are all referred to as "S30 Series" vehicles, and each of the permutations is identified by a production date and equipment specification.
It works great from the US Standpoint as we have our production date stamped in a tag in the door jamb so we know what we have.
I'll address the new-to-me 'Series 4' Designation (never heard that designation before) as it's the only one that crosses to the Japanese RPC notes (running production changes) and note that the S30 Series underwent a production change in 6/74 to accommodate the catalyst.
Prior to that, the 6/73 to 6/74 used basically the same general tunnel save that the 9/73's started using different attachment points for the dash and eliminated the fusebox mounting tabs (and console tabs) for the 260Z Style dash and console.
The Early Cars (sometime in 72, I forget the date/chassis number, it's all in Nissan Records by Effective Date and Chassis number) stopped with the early forward 'A Box' transmission tunnel hole.
It would REALLY be helpful to know WHERE the tunnel is cut away to know if you are dealing with simply a shifter hole placement issue....or if you have to even DEAL with the trans mounts at all.
Cutting down about 2" from the top of the tunnel front to back can easily turn one tunnel into another without ever changing the trans mounts. Allowing a 260 or 280 to turn into a 240, and vice-versa!