Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I have left the country and am in Kuala Lumpur, on the way to Singapore.
I had nothing to do with the unrest. Really...
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I got martial law imposed, and then a military coup...what was your excuse again?
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Good to see you got it repaired...and that it actually WAS repairable.
I hope you don't get or let any non-disclosure clauses become involved in whatever financial settlement you work out, as this is someplace to steer clear of....
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I think there's an S30 in that Japanese movie "Wangan Midnight"...
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Japan.
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I had a CHP at the roadside of the 57 NB and as he was lecturing me through the passenger's window, a Pantera and Porsche blew by in the #1/2 lanes wheel over 100mph.
Suddenly I wasn't so important in my little Z.
As he spewed gravel in hot pursuit (already lost sight) I just laughed and said out loud "Good Luck with THAT Farmer John!"
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Why on earth are you pulling a battery out to charge it?!?!?
You have a charging problem, and need to fix it. AC voltage from a bad alternator can do all sorts of things like corrupt your code, etc (so can your laptop comm chip, or electrical noise.)
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Do some reading on the stock turbo manifold. Port out the turbine entrance properly and it's not restrictive.
They are used successfully on cars making quite a bit more than your stated goal.
In fact, one I know of is running a GT35R...
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This effect is not to be discounted as well!
During "winter fuel" months in SoCal if you get an 80 degree day, you can get vapor lock from the evaporative characteristics of the re formulated greener fuel.
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Hose from block or head (Hot water supply)>heater control valve>heater core>hose back to water pump inlet.
If you remove the heater core, plug the lines and allow no flow. There is enough flow present through the carb preheat 8mm line and internal bypass line in the front of the block to prevent cavitation until the engine thermostat cracks open to allow more flow to the radiator.
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Nothing wrong with 28 on a running, idling engine.
If you're "back again" I'd suggest you append to your prior thread so any background previously stated is attached.
I, for one won't look for it.
I doubt during the summer if I'll even follow a link.
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There were no L20's made with N42 Castings.
It's an L28, likely from a Cedric or Gloria. Nothing special, rated at like 145ps
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The new issue of of Nostalgic Tuner comes out today in Japan... Guess what's on the cover?
In orange?
And an article showing on one side, and L-Series, and the other...in orange, a 73 Celica Liftback with the quote "4 Cylinder -vs- 6 Cylinder"...
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The CHTS being at 165 is way below any boiling point unless you are running a bad cap, and pure water! Nowhere near where you need to be to have the hot restart issues.
My bet is your tune parameters.
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He will throw his Mayflower Compact at you and stomp his foot! Then become indignant and work himself to death looking for the grace of Gawd!
"Neither could I!"
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Or you can see photos two threads down on this very page...
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Reduced is the Shock, as passes time does.
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You got something serious wrong if it's happening at only 165!
Shouldn't happen until 200-215+
I think "factory cuts" is an autocorrect of "factory sensors"....
Make sure your EMS is not contributing. MS can have hot restart issues due to poor calibration of that table...
Use one from someone who's got a reliable tune and hot restarts reliably.
Should not be doing it anywhere near 160-170 at all. I think the issue is elsewhere...
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In the 90's it wasn't uncommon to see the DOHC from the Celica GT (18RG) in the engine bay of a P510!
That's actually a better match of what it really was. . . It was NEVER a Z, more like a 510... but that could have been an RT43 Corona, Corolla, etc....
Toyota made a lot of sedans, but the 2000GT was their only real sports car in that same period. And it was generally acknowledged that after that fight while out drinking one night...and Yamaha shoping the design to Toyota that it was 'the Z that never was'!
That is a more valid comparo...save that they went to market with it, and Nissan learned the lesson about an overpriced, underpeforming Japanese Sports Car in the world market.
"They Fixed That" and introduced the Z with slightly better commercial success. Kinda like the L210 compared to the Toyopet in the late 50's.... haw haw haw!
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Make sure your fuel pressure is not bleeding down after shut off (from something like a leaking check valve, etc...)
Heat is your enemy, running a 160 thermostat helps quite a bit in keeping the fuel cooler. So does running a full tank.
Heat Soak is Heat Soak. The two big answers are above, there are plenty more.
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I've got one that the lower radiator hose runs through...
Any overflow cooling could be taken up by a supplemental air cooled unit (or for that matter adapting the Nissan Water-Cooled Oil Cooler from off an LD28) positioned like they did on the 280ZXT. The relatively small opening for drag, properly ducted and vented to a low-pressure area boosts airflow efficiency.
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Actually there was a RHD 73 Liftback for sale on Okinawa for $4300... Skinny bumper, much better looking than the later models with the 5mph bumpers. Lighter as well!
The hot ticket is the 240hp Honda mill and tranny. Bolt-in respectability!
Though a UZ would be nice. Rode in the Rocky Auto UZ powered box skyline... It would be acceptable in an early Celica!
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Pallnet made a nice vacuum log for my HKS ITB's...
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I think your JDM information is wrong. My Fairlady S130 didn't have symmetric positioning of the mirrors.
RHD swapping to LHD would simply transpose the dimensions side-to-side.
help w/ coolant hosr layout
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I'm not sure what you mean by the heater core "tap"-hoping it would be clarified.
The water pump pressurises the block front to back first, then water flows up into the head and back to the front out the thermostat.
The head point is hottest, and imparts flow to a relatively stagnant area. It makes for most efficient quick heater operation.
But the lower bock point helps with sedimentation in that area, and is used in a lot of sedans. If your plumbing is simplified by it, use that one instead.
Epithet connection takes flow from the rearmost portion of the engine, through the heater core (mini radiator) and then after being cooled goes right back to the water pump inlet. The heater core acts the same as the radiator, and this is why you don't just "loop" the two points when the heater core is removed. You plug it and divert all flow through the radiator to be cooled, instead of taking the hottest water in the engine and putting it right back into the inlet to the water pump!