Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I see on ebay they're $399. . . looks to be all mandrel bends, for the price you can't expect more that that!
JeffP did an all mandrel system that people bought. It wasn't $400. Try 4X that...
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That plate is nothing, don't worry about it. It allows access to some linkages and pins for the throttle shaft. The one circled in red is what equalizes your float bowls. Some people didn't use that hole, and instead put a longer bolt on the jet cover, and a spacer with a hose to the surge tank and pressurised the float bowl that way.
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Plug the pickup in the rear with a flush-seal plug.
Plug the gallery at the front cover with a flush-seal plug.
Put the external pickup kit on the engine and see a large increase in flow from the setup.
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That is in the brochure I have at the house in the USA. I've actually got the Sales Brochure from 1971. They show up on eBay, that's where I got mine.
Sorry I've been up and back a couple of times but running fast.
I just extended my visa to 27 July... and really don't have anything to do but answer e-mails and get some visas lined up at the Chinese and Indonesian Embassy. I've gotten myself into my Archive Drive, and have been posting up photos to Facebook...so this coming week I can start combing for information. If nothing else I can get a CD of what I have and send it to you via LBC or maybe leave it up in Alabang (Richville Corporate Tower, Filinvest by Festival Mall) for you to pick up before I leave.
Leave me an address I can use for LBC via PM. I should be back up Monday or Tuesday to do the China Visa and try to straighten out the registration on my Multicab at LTO...
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Generally an 'adapter bushing' is required anyway going from JIS to NPT threads... Just use Loctite PST 765 or so, and not tape so it makes a good metal-to-metal contact when you screw it in and gives a good ground path so you don't get 'gauge skew'.
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Always worth another watch...
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Not following the dodge of 3% in the first place... but there might be a requirement that shipping delay must be stated in the ad.
"Part is on my car, will remove on XX/XX/XXXX, can ship within X weeks afterwards upon confirmation of receipt of funds."
For Group Buys, a solid ship date should be projected. "Once we get the required components into the shop from XXX participants, manufacture will start. All parts will be sent within XX Weeks of completion and receipt of funds."
Crap happens, but keeping people informed of the actual shipping / production status of their parts doesn't seem to be that big a chore. Even if it's batch manufacture of a random group "XX cores in, XX Completed and XX Shipped"
In the past year, I've had several shipments go by USPS Flat-Rate Box that just simply DISAPPEARED. If felt bad for the eBay seller because he obviously sent them but since I ship to my office, and it's open for mail delivery most every day (if not at our offices, and main floor reception which has a holding locker for days the complex is open and we are not working office hours) "Not Getting Delivery becauses you aren't there" doesn't happen.
I did have ONE package that arrived last October/November from "Burleigh" which was returned because it was a forward to my PO Box. . . Still don't know what it was.
Sellers need to communicate when things have shipped, so people know to look for them. Having moved to a PO Box because of MAIL THEFT in my neighborhood...well...I just want to know to project when I need to loiter on mail day ya know?
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Please, take the time to Give a Shift, and prevent the extinction of the manual gearbox!
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Yes, it will do that continually... You may want to just take the time and drop the tank--clean it out with Muriatic Acid, plug any leaks that pop up after the cleaning, possibly coat the interior and be done with it!
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We're worried about your head, not our time. Have your buddies take a baseball bat, wrap it in foam, and then have them hit you in the head as hard as they can. That is the best case scenario. Worst case: take a 1.5" OD steel tube and have your buddies do the same thing, without the padding.
That is going to surface later...it's too good an example not to repeat and claim as my own. Remember, you heard it here first!
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^^^Agreed 100%^^^
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10 Micron is big... If it persists, before doing anything else I'd reverse-flow clean your injectors to flush the individual inlet screens of anything that went past the filter.
The symptoms of what you described (that I quoted) were classic clogged/restricted filter problems. Runs fine but not at WOT at high speeds. Let up on the throttle a bit and the car comes back alive and will sometimes run all the way to redline---just won't do it WOT.
That's been the same from carbs onwards. I think you will likely find you're back to your former power levels, and it explains the gradual loss.
Pray your injectors inlet screens are clear! They can do the same thing. JeffP lost his forged bottom end when the Z31 ECU switched from 2 squirts to one at 5225 rpms. Up to that point, with the injectors only flowing half the required fuel for full power everything was fine. Go to 5230 rpms and it was like the engine was on a rev limiter "rm-rumm-rm-rummm-rum-rum..." He'd unknowingly blown a cellulose based fuel filter and the loose shards of the fibers got into his injectors. When they were called to deliver that fuel flow in ONE injection pulse per timing event, they flow limitation was presented. Below that point you could get 10:1 AFR's easily. 5 rpms, and they went from 11.3 to 16/19/22.0:1 before Clark could lift.
Fine to a point of high load WOT then after that no matter what, couldn't get more fuel. And it wasn't that way before!
Sound familiar?
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" Anyhoo, If you have the 5 speed tranny, you should get 28mpg on the highway no matter how you drive."
Not on a California Emissions Spec you won't, no way, no how!
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At full throttle when it starts to go lean, I feel a power loss. If I keep it at part throttle on the highway, even after 4k, it will maintain 13:1 ratio, as soon as I go wot, it jumps to 16 almost 17.
I've browsed through the fuel injection guide, but I'll go through it again. The ford injectors are high impedance, I was told by the guy who built the rail for me that I could run them without any I'll effect.
You have a plugged fuel filter.
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I have seen flexible connectors like that vibrate and let in air intermittently. That could account for the MAP changes and easily account for a 200rpm bump.
But again, so can electrical spikes and noise giving the ECU Fits.
It could be either.
I'd caution around tuning around something like this...if the MAP was constant and not swinging I'd say try tuning. But until that MAP stabilizes there is either some sort of intermittent leak or noise is causing an issue.
It shouldn't vary but a few kPa, and under 25rpm at idle with everything locked down.
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once the AFM flap is opened, or the throttle position closes the WOT contacts around 33% open, or you are over 3500 rpms, the things that affect fueling are few since it's on the preprogrammed map. It has X Pulsewidth plus small (I mean REALLY small) air temperature or coolant temperature compensations. The fueling should pull back after 4,000 somewhat as that gives best power past peak torque.
A turbo would go to 13.8-14.7, I can see an N/A doing similar, but since they start 12-13 to begin with, and not 11-12 14.8-15.8 doesn't seem too lean.
Other than the gauge telling you something that appears to be correct, were there physical manifestations such as surging or bucking at speed that indicated it was 'too' lean?
18:1 is NOT 'too lean' in some cases, especially under low/no load.
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You would need the 400 bar direct-injectioni setup john C speaks of to use that...
I believe right now, state of the industry is atmospheric injection of the fuel for home DIY'ers.
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Cold, you did it cold, right?
I like to block off the return so the engine stalls at fuel pump bypass pressure (around 60) then clamp the inlet. The FPR is open fully then and all pressure is absolutely being held by the clamps.
It dropped off to zero, that is odd. I'd let the fuel tank get real low, like 5 gallons and 'superbatch it'...
I take a can of Seafoam, and one of those truck-sized cans of Techron (enough for 20 gallons of fuel as I recall) and then run the hell out of the car until it's down to almost empty, then fill up again and repeat but this time with a full tank.
Usually by the end of the first 5 gallons, it's purring like a kitten. The only thing that will make an injector 'leak' is dirt in the pintile. And chances are good between and intake manifold treatment with Seafoam, and the circulation of it through the injectors themselves it can be cleaned out.
If you've got a stimulator, you can rig up your fuel rail backwards to clamp the pintile end in the fuel rail, hook up your injectors, and stim the box to induce the firing of the injectors, and reverse-flow pure seafoam and techron through the injectors. It's an amazing cleaning technique for the house-hobby dude.
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My single vacuum bypass at 1/4" would give me from zero to almost 2200 rpms in terms of idle bypass. I should think 1/8" per barrel would be more than enough to balance and give adequate basic idle speed.
That you had it running on MS1 for so long and did not have the issues I would tend to agree there is something in there altering it with everything locked down like you say.
From that first log photo, it looks like everything is steady but your 200 rpms swing which inversely correlates to the MAP signal... Your TPS is obviously closed.
I don't know how receptive you are to some bushleague troubleshooting, but get some ignition sealant...or clear krylon. While the engine is up to temperature, start at the head and spray the hell out of the connection hose joints, the manifold flange all your vacuum hoses paying attention to the joints. Lay it on THICK.
We would do this to Lycoming Engines when the inlet seals would start going out, drip in high temp paint that was semi-thickened from being open, and let it suck into any crevice and crack on the engine's intake system (they had similar hose-clamped hoses on the "spider's legs" from the intake) and as it was sucked in it dried and plugged the hole.
It's clear, so it shouldn't have a big impact on visuals... It's a quick and dirty way of confirming and temporarily plugging the vacuum leaks. I would have a logger running and when you spray log.... if you see the MAP and RPM start to even out or stabilise you're on the right track.
ALL THAT BEING SAID....
Traditionally noise issues have plagued these installs. I would not be surprised to find what appears to be minimal noise or voltage fluctuations to be at the root of all of this! I'd filter and ground the hell out of everything really well just to be sure!
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The 250's should have idled like a stock car... 450's not necessarily so.
I found mine "Alternating 2squirts" (with 240's) was the smoothest on my setup. I think I didn't have sufficient rail volume to keep steady pressure in the fuel system so pressure dropped enough that it affected injection events with single pulse.
JeffP put a large pulsation damper on his rail to keep the 450's, 550's and eventually 720's from drawing-down rail header pressure and making his AFR move all over on the Extreme280ZXT. It really helped in that regard--with and ITB, what kind of vacuum log signal do you get to the FPR? It could suck if you were in an opposite-phase dynamic where due to the strong pulse in the intake tract the FPR was at it's lowest pressure just when the injectors fired off....and then out of phase at highest pressure point in the rail on a subsequent injection event!
I mean, we're reaching here now... but all within the realm of possibility. A good gauge would show if this was the case. I don't think JeffP sees more and a 2-3psi fluctuation at idle now with the 720's in there with the damper (using a 6" Diameter Mirrored 0-60 psi Reference Gauge tapped mid-rail.) Before, it was swinging like 15+ psi!
BIG injectors really get easier with sequential as it really does limit the rail fluctuations.
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"It's not that Nissan wouldn't ever...it's THAT THEY NEVER DID!"
Maybe because it was never worth it?..... just throwing that out there... not trying to cause trouble lol
Nissan had to of made two different heads for a reason and dont say the liners of the P79 were because of emissions because the P90 and P90A turbo head had to go through the same emissions.
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Hahaha all I can say is that thats on you. I didn't twist your arm to answer my questions or look into this forum. However, I do appreciate the time that people have put in to answering my questions. Don't ever forget that!!
Ignorance of Engineering and Emissions, along with the entitlement attitude has just ended this thread for me. Indeed it's on me, and 'block' is easily accomplished in my preferences. Masturbatory Highschoolers coming with idle time to waste (waist) are not worth the effort.
The Colossal stupidity in logic leaps found on the internet these days, compounded by the TOTAL lack of mechanical knowledge is truly dispiriting. I find no surprise you hail from Fresno. Good luck with your project.
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I would agree that 14 is borderline too low. Likely from the aforementioned rich running, it makes a bunch of low down torque....
Now, 14 in the city I say borderline as I got 15-17 in city driving...but I CAN get as low as 10-12 if I know the cops aren't around and I drive like I'm Auto-Xing it!
So really the driving style will dictate quite a spread. Also during northern winters and cold weather---that would be FINE! The cold start loop can take FOREVER to get the car off the enrichment loop and short trips KILL your mileage as you are always running on the enrichment loop. I would block off at least half my radiator, run a 190 thermostat and idle for a while to warm up before even THINKING of moving during the winter months up north. The colder it is, the worse it is!
I'm good for simple troubleshooting methods. Most of the stuff on this car can be troubleshot in 45 minutes or less on the electrical end of the engine, and even less on fuel! It's either working or it ain't!
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Yeah, I'd say your idle speed will move when your timing changes. In fact, that is how the old TEC2 would keep idle speed steady: varying advance.
If you are moving around, and your pulsewidth is consistent, there is a variable. As stated fix the timing and see if it settles down. This may or may not affect the AFR's but it will eliminate a variable.
Basically lock everything down and re-enable ONE variable at a time to see what effect they have. That is kind of the way you're supposed to tune it... almost nobody does with so many pretuned maps 'close' these days. But when something doesn't work, go back to the basics, lock it all down and if it's still moving it's a mechanical leak someplace, possibly variable. If you are sucking PCV into the manifold, make sure the hose doesn't have a drip leg in it where condensed oil could puddle and make for an intermittent plug.
The idle kPa is pretty good for an ITB.
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Oh, that sounds really familiar. I found myself sympathetically pumping my right foot.... LOL
280Z runs lean after 4000rpm
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
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Not that size. I'd pickle the two fuel lines with muriatic acid, and flush liberally with water afterwards. But I really doubt its in there.
On a ZX, you got a swirl pot and a strainer in the tank...I'd open it and pull your pickup out to take a look. Something is inside there. I've seen bad gas tanks in podunk desert towns pump enough clay silt to sidline every car in a convoy by the end of the driving day... So the source could be almost anywhere. But likely it's the tank. I'd have a look at your strainer and swirl pot for sure...that's fairly easy to access.