Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Seems the boot isn't my biggest problem as when I jacked the transmission up to it's final mounting position the shifter is now hitting the console, did you have to modify yours to engage the 1,3,5 gears? I have NO clearance from the center console to the shifter when the shifter is in neutral.
This was mentioned above, and is a common issue with ANY late model five speed into an earlier 240Z.
You either bend the stock Mustang Shifter, or get any one of the many available aftermarket shifters with the adjustable shifter handles.
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My comfort zone is better in the RHD cars as the pedal layout isn't skewed. Your right foot goes straight out from the seating position, whereas when I sit in the LHD Car I'm ever so canted to the left....which is like rolling into that door.
Perhaps you're sensitive to it and simply need a Fairlady Z instead of an Export model?
And as far as the car being "narrow" or claustrophobic....try a four-door Lincoln Town Car, or ANY modern car....they are HUGE by comparison...but my elbow rubs this, knees rub that, head hits this, can't see over there...
I've put 15,000 and 18,000 mies on Z's in two and three week periods... Two pieces of HVAC Foam were all that was necessary. One over the window crank knob as my left knee rested right on it (LHD Car Problem, not in the RHD Car) and on the Aftermarket AC Pod which was rubbing on the Right Knee (AGAIN in the LHD Car, not an issue in RHD as AC Control was elsewhere by design!)
The 7,500 miles in a week in my new-to-me 2002 Ford F150 had my left knee on the window crank...and no ledge for my left elbow along with the window sill poking me with the lock knob...
I would not be considered "small", and in fact I very nearly am the original passenger compliment of the first 240Z alone.
I do tend to hang my arm out the window, but when I run windows-up there is sufficient space for that arm inside as well on both LHD and RHD versions.
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You could have the switch installed backwards (180 out) or engaged the tab when the switch was in the wrong position. Pull the switch off, put the key to lock, turn the ignition switch to it's furthest position away from "crank" and re engage the tab.
Make sure your tab is not bent...that will make for dodgy key positions later on. You can tweak it back straight with a needle nose pliers.
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With a non-opened restrictor in the head, you may well have some flow issues from the spray bar, but the internal lobe holes should suffice. You can easily block the spray bar using blanking gaskets to see if that increases the lobe flow.
I'm thinking on the track car I couldn't idle it below 1,700 with the DCOE's as well. Milder cammed engines with good vacuum may idle a bit "low"---in the past I've told guys to bump the idle to 900 even on SU cars as the lack of vacuum at idle with some cams makes or dodgy brakes or HVAC controls on later cars.
I know when we went to EFI, the atomisation was so good we could idle that same setup down to the point where the "cranking speed" indication was intermittently flashing on the laptop screen. Just because we COULD idle our Bonneville Engine at 400rpms, doesn't mean we SHOULD.
If you've got carbs, I'd say you should idle it around 900-1,000 rpms just for the higher vacuum it provides, giving better off-idle transition. And it helps with oil flow!
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But, but....you really get to sink your teeth into real projects with a timeframe like that!
Me, I gotta get up with the sun to do an oil change and check the tires before a weekend of canyon-carving at 400 miles a day... I mean driving twisties for ten hours going the back way to Palm Springs in February...then back through the low foothills the next...
I mean, it's like 80 degrees...you worry about your cooling system all the time! It really wears on you...
That ability to unplug from the constant drain of driving every weekend... Man I envy you guys!
I often think of moving to the mountains...I can see snow there from time to time. So close...maybe a 45 minute drive... But yet so far away at the same time. You know, living under the sun is brutal....a palm tree give SQUAT for shade!
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"The problem isn't that the timing light doesn't flash,"
The PROBLEM is you don't have a flash! NOT that the flash is in the wrong spot.
All this "no spark" troubleshooting is in the FSM, quit complaining about the trees in your way, step back and see the FOREST!
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No.
The clutch is bad. Replace it.
Really!
I nominate this for shedding...
Standard test for bad clutch: put car in fourth, rev it and try to take off.
Fourth, not first.
You slip in fourth?
Bad clutch. Replace it.
Really!
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Yes, the distributor drive gear can slip on the shaft -- if that happened, and you are using an 81CAS, you"re screwed if its slipped enough. I've seen them slip 180+ degrees on one run, get corrected, slip 7 degrees on the second run. Those two runs lunched 5 pistons...
A timing light tells you where timing is....if you aren't getting a flash....you don't need to worry about timing, you need to worry about where you are loosing signal to the CPU for spark signal...
Checking he yellow wire from the ECU to the Ignitor is a good place as any to start...not there, you need to check CAS Input to ECU.
Break it down into its simplistic components, and you will figure it ou!
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"I can hear the pump going in and out...the car would lose all power when the FP would go silent"
"It's a new MSD Pump, what could it be?"
Power to the MSD Fuel Pump
The MSD Fuel Pump
Saying it loses power makes me assume you hear your pump while driving (and this is not stopped at a light at idle where the AFM Contacts could be opening shutting the pump off...) in which case....other than an FPR dumping pressure intermittently (first time for everything in Fantasyland I suppose...) this brings us to power to the pump, and the pump itself.
New parts fail more regularly than proven running parts a year old...
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And "flabbergasting" being misused in such a context reveals now why you can't comprehend whats being said.
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Define what you are referring to...
Your phenomenon that you describe is surge, you are referring to it incorrectly.
On his diesel issue, most likely it is not, and was stated as such before you came in muddying he waters with improper definitions and misguided impressions of "when" surge occurs!
Like I said, this thread needs som cleaning up as trash has littered it.
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Shifting up, as you pass is particularly demoralizing...
Though I did pas a 3 Series BMW going uphill into Tahoe from Reno in a Geo Metro Automatic. Floorboarded, at 45mph around a curve, almost on three wheels.
Talk about embarrassed... Ultimate Driving Machine: Geo Metro!
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"The FSM does not give a way to really set the timing when you can't even get the engine to start, at least not that I've been able to find. The next plan is to try different positions of the CAS. Unfortunately, I don't know enough from just listening to the engine if I need to advance or retard the timing. Any pointers?"
Get a timing light.
Start with proper installation of the oil pump and drive spindle, with the rod through the #1 tower and rotor to make sure it's in phase properly with #1
If that does not allow the rotor to fit or needs the distributor to be twisted to some odd angle, the distributor drive gear has spun on the shaft.
At that point of determination, you can choose to continue to try with a failing component, or replace the shaft with a new one that isn't spun and likely won't spin. Pin the shaft as discussed elsewhere here and you will never worry again about it spinning.
If you do not choose to repair it in the correct manner, or just have to get it running because of the fire and you can't push it uphill to save it and the priceless family heirlooms and baby harp seals inside.... then you need a timing light.
Start again by eyeballing phasing to #1. Then using the timing light at idle, check to make sure the timing is as required in the FSM (20 degrees as I recall?) and you're done.
The difference between the 81 CAS on the crank, and the 82/83 CAS is that PHASING is INDEPENDENT of TIMING on the 81. To change TIMING you DO NOT 'twist the dissy' -- all you do with that trick is screw up the cap to rotor alignment angle (by definition centering the rotor on the #1 Plug Tower at 20 Degrees BTDC, allowing a reasonable advance of 35 degrees total to still keep the rotor centered (relatively) in relation to the plug tower. Start turning the distributor without adjusting the CAS to alter your timing....and all you do is increase the chance that once you hit full advance under drop throttle that the tower spark jumps to the next tower in sequence (the towers are only separated by 60 degrees, so advance it enough independently of cap position and you can easily jump forward with the spark to the next tower and it will continue there until advance goes away and it jumps back to the right terminal.)
On the 82/83 CAS, since it's resident in the housing that holds the cap---the phasing and timing is in the same relative positions, so twisting the cap to get it all correct after the distributor drive gear has slipped is relatively easy....if you have a timing light.
If you have an 81 CAS, there is only so much timing you can crank in by adjusting the CAS position relative to the paddle wheels on the crankshaft. If the distributor drive gear slips, replacing the shaft is the only real alternative as the phasing will never line up. and even if you jump a tooth on the drive gear, you may still need to crank in more twist to get phasing correct.
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Bonneville is a long course, miles in fact. That is why there are higher speeds. If you want comparisons on traction Maxton & ElMirage would be a good Comparo Maxton is a Mile, concrete...El Mirage is 1.3 miles Dry Lake Bed. Burton Brown runs Maxton, and Andy Flagg's #220 runs El Mirage, the speeds should tell the tale if the Maxton Records are reflective of the traction difference.
As mentioned, now competitors can also run on Mojave which is asphalt. OEM's use closed Wurtsmith AFB Michigan for closed-course high speed testing as well. Old SAC B52 Base home to regional SCCA Stuff in the summer on the old ops apron. I think the course in Maine is similarly situated, old Northern Tier SAC Runway.
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Go try any Corvair!
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Southwest Airlines Super Saver Fares...
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4? That's a low number since starting in 92. In 92 I had my 73, and a 71RHD, and a 70 that was the mirror-image of the 71RHD.
then I moved from the gated community (a trailer park qualifies, right?) on to acreage...
Now there are more. They breed at night. You can't stop them...
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It's the editorial page of Financial Times... Where editors APOLOGISE for improper use of proper English.
Their readers enforce a high standard, and the Editors must bow to the will of the readership.
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Did the donor car you got the parts from run?
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Oh yeah, and just to BE SURE, I sent all three of my MS boxes to Zya to "get another's set of eyes on the possible cause"!
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"A previous owner had cut away half of the bracket at the base of the distributor, to give it more play for adjusting timing. "
They cut it because they were a tooth off and didn't want to pull the oil pump to fix it. This is why you found the 55 advancement...
Did you read the 81 Turbo Supplement about using the rod to phase-synch the rotor to the distributor?
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That's why I mentioned "Hydraulic"! That's supposed to be "The Bad One"!
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Bo, the stock headlamps ARE weak!
40/50W as I recall. I had city lights in my H4 housings that were 30W on relys and they were as bright as stock Lo-Beam Koitos that came with the cars. Try to find an original wattage sealed-beam headlamp! Even now most "sealed beams" are housed halogen capsules of higher wattage...those stockers were WEAK WEAK WEAK!!!
Universally people upgrade to today's standard 55/65W, which REALLY benefit from relays. And if you're like me running 55/100's or 80/120's on the 'night driver' relays become mandatory.
Just because you can ......
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I shipped ventilation systems from Malaysia & Thailand...the environmental controls are a blue wedge of increasing thickness....no red on them! "Heater"? Whaddahellisdat?
In fact, those Tropical AC Heads or the S30 are huge by comparison! No "marginal" AC complaints here any longer!