Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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"Bump" for the Summer Season...albeit a little late.
My summer has been great, thanks "ignore posts from user" option!
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Common practice, or cribbing up from the floor.
7 1/2 in that container, and it was STANDARD! A HC would make that Child's play now!
You can see the front cut to the right of the yellow car in the one photo.
And our packing technique is much more refined!
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Shoot, it looks to be in better shape than my 280z when I purchased it. How the heck does one leave something like this in a farm field!?
Never drive in the Desert Southwest, dude!!! That ain't NUTHIN!!!
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Anything is possible with Wet Liners...
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Argh...
I refuse to repeat myself on this subject again. Instead I'll offer some questions:
1) in the month you drive to use that quart of oil...how many MILES is that? I was going 500 miles a week inSoCal easily, that would mean 2,000~2,500 miles in my case. How about you?
2) can you swap your fouled plug to another cylinder and clean it so it's working again? By "fouled" I take it you mean it stops firing.
3) how many miles per year do you drive the car?
4) how much does a quart of oil cost?
5) how much does a rebuild cost?
6) when you divide the mileage you drive in a year, by the miles it takes to burn a quart of oil, and multiply that number by the cost of a quart of oil....and then take THAT dollar figure and divide it into the cost of the "overhaul" the number you get will be the number of years it will take to pay back the cost of the overhaul....what is that number of years?
7) will you sell the car before the number of years in 6 occurs?
A stuck oil ring can become unstuck using solvents. If they ALL leak, then it's ring tension. If one is fouling the plugs it's stuck.
If one cylinder is low, likely it's a valve not seating fully with what you're stating. Or you've detonated #5 and stuck the rings...do the math above before you make decisions.
An L28 is 475-525 at U-Pick U-Save off Mission Blvd & East End in Pomona (Turbo or Non... Put AT&T the harness and ECU on it when you take it up and it's "EFI engine, complete", exit north off the 60 Eastbound at Reservoir, go to Mission, turn right, after the RR Trax watch to your right. Just past the Semi Truck Junkyard on right, and Adult Cabaret on the Left, Southwest corner of Mission & East End.
If not there, continue on Misson to Milliken, turn left over railroad Trax, Pick A Part is on your right across from the landfill gas recovery station on the left.
Between those two, you should find one engine complete...
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Turbocharged L28 at 12# boost with MS, ported head with mild Isky Cam,, 2.5" exhaust no Center muffler, 3.70 R200 with OBX ATB, urethane bushings, sticky street radials, Porterfield R4S pads with Motul RBF 600 fluid, tokiko illuminas on 5, one cut coil on all corners, 400wpc stereo with 10" sub on a 500w desiccated amp where the spare went, and AAA Premium...
Last on list: 240SX Tranny Swap and maybe a freer flowing exhaust and better hybrid turbo... That woul be it.
What's dynamat for? Resonance suppression in the speaker area..??? I just turn it up. For 25 years.
I had a Nardi Deep Corn steering wheel once...rats ate it. I stick to leather or wood since...
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Argh! Argh! Argh!
Looks like ZCCJDM may get an order from me yet!
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I think JeffP is working on that title hard already.
And yeah, find a chassis and do a swap. Buy it from the insurance company. Don't let all your work go to waste.
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HAHAHAHAHA! Sulit kuya!
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Hi Tony,
It took some time to figure out how i wanted to modificate the bodywork.
Can you send me some pics from the cars previous life? I would like to complete the story.
The only picture i have, is one standing in the back of the container before shipping.
I hope to post soon more pics from the side glass experiment and window frames.
Greetings
It only took two months and a year to get them up here!
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Attention, this is what the aforementioned car looked like.... It was purchased FOR PARTS, the 3.0 EFI Stroker was pulled along with it's five speed, and shipped to Holland...
Everybody with a Fisheye has photos like this...
The reason it looks like it's laying on the lower radiator support is because it had the entire engine cradle removed the night prior...
Waiting to load into the container.
I'm sure my neighbors love me when MSA comes...
In the container... I skipped the gory details of how it got from the ground into there. See the other post about Tow Hooks and you will get the idea!
The Vampires storm the unsuspecting Z...fat with succulent parts...tearing it asunder and removing it's 3 Liter Heart...violently with blunt metal "tools"...
The heart is held aloft, for the crowd to cheer at the consummation of the sacrifice, the eager recipients of the booty await their succor...
Placed on the altar of sacrifice...it is taken away!
And the body, suitably disposed of, now allows the Vampires a respite...
And jack280 knows it's HIS car because he can crosscheck the VIN on the windshield! LOL
Yes, I have my own Forklift, and yes I drive it in Flip Flops...what about it?
Jack280, sorry this took so darned long to do! I ran across these doing something for work and said "NOW OR NEVER!" and posted what I had. Hope this gives you the 'Before' photos you can use to show the world what you've done to the car! That VIN on the windshield for Shipping & Customs inspection kinda is a dead stone cold proof it's the same chassis!
Cheers!
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YES! Pull straight.
What's "straight" again...?
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Partial days in SoCal are $100-125/HR
Pulls are three for $45 for (as stated above) guys who want a print out.
Whole days can be had for $500-$800 depending if you need an operator, they let you run the dyno, or if they have a lot of business.
ENGINE dynoes are something other, I tend to recall the bill for JeffP and I on the Dyno was somewhere around $1600... But they didn't have anybody else in that time period to use it, and we ran it ourselves so they didn't have to supply an operator save for one or two pulls when we complained about it not working properly. Then we had to help them fix it... so likely we got a heavy discount.
The big thing is getting people to know you are in business, start by going to local car clubs and advertising or inviting them to dyno days where you do club cars for $50 for three pulls... Have them all invite their friends. It's a nice sideline if you can get the work steadily on the weekends when YOU want to do it.
You got a dyno... I'm so temped to link JeffP to this thread.... my evil sense says I will get the "every time I talk to you it costs me $2,000!" I tend to think the dyno is more than that! LOL
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Some of us knew about it and kept our mouths shut whilst hoarding 280's in our back yards for the day when this became common knowledge and those $400 280's add a zero to their values as daily drivers under this loopie...
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I just had the two business cards in my hand today, and put them away so I wouldn't lose them...and be damned where they are now...as I can't find them! Both the guy who spoke Dutch, and the German dude there in the Long Beach Office. ARGH!
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And please quit calling it a Choke...
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The Cold Starting Circuit is a piece of wire running through all the levers so they move the same amount when you pull on the lever inside the car whilst cold-cranking with the engine ignition turned on...
______/---\______/---\______/---\______
Eh!
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"I think the best solution might be to block off the return line going to the water pump inlet and replumb it into some point past (forward of) the thermostat housing."
This would indeed lengthen warmups by bypassing the thermostat. JeffP made a 1" thick spacer block out of plate aluminum to let his rear cylinder circulation lines mount...basically 25mm longer bolts than you currently have in the thermostat, and an extra gasket (no need to go JeffP Fancy with the O-Ring sealing...) and you're set. You can place the thermostat in the stock position, and the block over it to return on the radiator side of the thermostat, and if you don't like the time it takes to warm up....or want experimentation....put the small groove in the top of the hole and put the thermostat on the top of the spacer block to allow the circulation under the thermostat (which is how JeffP ended up running his after dyno tests...)
It's some RTV away and you can't go wrong with the setup. It even cleared his hood!
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Fords as well.
I had chirps bangs and all sorts of commotion from my E250 LSD.
It all stopped within 30,000 miles...
Of course, by then it effectively was a one-legged open diffy as I'd worn the clutches out from the combination of low factory preload, high loading near MAWR, and a tendency to use judicious (some may say "excessive") throttle application on corner exits...
High preload keeps it cooler through less slippage. As John says, the higher breakaway makes noise. All you're doing adding more and more friction modifier is making the clutches slip easier...kinda defeating the purpose of shimming it o higher breakaway in the first place.
I gave a guy an open differential after he bought a hot 71 with triples, headers, cam, etc...just HATED the noise from the differential. I explained what it was...fully... He was happier with the open diffy I gave him as an even swap.
What ratio is in your differential, chances are I got one which will be WHISPER QUIET in operation just like an open stocker (which is what it is...) even swap, same as with the other guy!
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Balanced airflow before you started monkeying with them?
The FSM lays out balancing pretty clearly.
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Please read any f the numerous posts in the fuel delivery forum for schematic layout of your triples setup.
Jeez! C'mon!!
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As you note from the Sullair manual, there is a bit more to alignment than slapping it together and saying "perfect alignment"!
The rubber coupling has FAR more angular misalignment tolerance than a solid coupler, and cushions impulses from one crankshaft to the next.
A Solid coupling takes on VERY critical angular alignment requirements...
Also, Josh, the axle couplings you see on FF Halibrand Gearboxes are from the Smaller Sullair 24KT series... I think the outlying element is the same as the 75Hp units.
I forget the manufacturer right now, but I know where they go! I just had a big discussion elsewhere about "site identification" of components...
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Read your manual, see them used as tow point with rope.
Solved.
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Hint:
The wires that cause your problem are related to the automatic you removed, not the manual you installed.
Body Electrical Section should contain the wiring diagram that spells out the missing link here.
'78 280z runs like old chevy...
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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My old Chevy ran fine.
My suggestion is be specific in WTF you car is doing...or I nominate this for shedding!
My 76 ran JUST FINE with a set of headers and a 2.5" exhaust all the ways to the can in the back.