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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

    More Loudness

    in Exhaust

    Posted

    I recently returned to my buddy and found him time-travelled back to 1979 over the back of his Corvair trying to get it started  with two other dudes watching with beer-in-hand. It started  immediately after I laid hands on it and he took me for a drive, mentioning he "needed new exhausts".... I took a second, listened, said "Nah man, this sounds about right, why you going to F-this  up, you just want to spend money, or what?" He got all P.O. and said THE GODDAMNED MUFFLERS ARE RUSTED  OFF THE HEADERS DUDE!

     

    I was like "NAH! B.S.!"

     

    We got back to the house, with me HONESTLY thinking the car was running with decent exhaust sound, not thinking it needed anything. But sho'nuff, both mufflers were dangling by their rear hangers and the headpipe J-Bends were straight out not going into the mufflers AT ALL.

     

    I just stood there for a second, said "I been spending too much time at the track!"

     

    Megaphones were loud. But those puny peashooter 2" pipes weren't (at least from inside the car)... of course, the car with the megaphones had a stripped interior and a full cage for ice racing... it was a bit of an extreme car... I loved it.

    77 l28e turbo?

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    Welcome to "a "good running" stock L28ET"! :icon45: 

     

    The sensors are identical, it doesn't matter where you put them the response curves are EXACTLY the same so the input will be the same. Just delayed and somewhat skewed if using the thermostat location.

     

    I have had countless ECCS / EFI conversions where I made a harness to extend the CTS to reach the CHTS, and vice-versa where I used the CTS instead of the CHTS. They plug in and operate identically.

     

    You got a problem with the wiring, box, or sensor...

     

     You can plug the ECCS CHTS into a CTS in the thermostat, it works fine. You can extend the harness on an EFI engine to plug into the CHTS sensor, it works fine. They are functionally and electrically interchangeable, 100%.

     

    Remember I said "lets be intellectually honest here"? This is EXACTLY the BS I'm referring to with the stock system that's now 30 years old in the BEST case!

     

    You didn't do something stupid like wrap the sensor in a buttload of teflon tape did you? That will screw the pooch on the ground side like you wouldn't believe! ESPECIALLY on one-wire sensors!

    Change Venturi size or stay whith what I have

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    I got a 17x72 Milacron as well. I would have settled for the 12" Atlas with all the attachments...

     

    Good to hear the manual resizing went well... No need to buy something you can make cheaply yourself, right!

     

    (My 6" 109 is driven by an electric motor "Dec 24, 1925" listed as production date...

    77 l28e turbo?

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    "I'm at the point where I pretty much could have built a MegaSquirt harness and been done with it."

     

    That's usually how it ends up... I watched someone make big HP on his Z31, turn to me and say "for what I paid to get here on this car, I should have just bough that instead right off!" (Pointing to his newly purchased R32 GTR.)

     

    Some things only become apparent in hindsight ... Like pushing that gabby ewe over the cliff so she doesn't blab to the rest of the herd afterwards...

    Need help with "Restoration Plan"

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Absolutely they did. Add the flares when you paint for minimum hassles later.

     

    Thinking you can avoid them is foolish. Just do it now and you don't have to take steps to 'avoid' an issue later.

     

    It's like RustyJones or Ziebart Rustproofing. You would see them drill holes and THAT is where the rust started! I knew one guy who went to Ziebart, had all the holes drilled in his stripped car...then had it painted and THEN took it for spraying the Smhutz inside the panels. Never a rust problem.

     

    Drilling holes through fresh paint? No, I'd pass on that! Drill before paint, always.

    Leak between head and block

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    "Keep in mind you will need a torque wrench and a 3/8th drive allen set to retorque the head, can be had for ~20$ for both at harbor freight I believe."

     

    If you're needing to buy one, buy the correct one: it's 10mm, not 0.375" (unless you like spinning out the flats, then by all means go with the 3/8"!)

     

    Ever consider Aluma-Seal and paint?

    CLT or CHTS?

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    I mapped the Nissan pairs to CHTS and will never use CLT again.

    We did extensive testing on an. Instrumented engine dyno, and the CHTS is much more representative of what is going on in your engine under load. If you are turbocharged especially, this is THE area you want to monitor!

     

    It doesn't matter WHERE boiling starts in a head, once it starts, you're sunk. And on our cars, if it's going at start, it will start there.

     

    Advantages of using it also go towards fuel economy...reaching ops temperature faster means less wasted cold start enrichment fuel, earlier closed-loop operation, etc....

    Advice Needed -- Problems w/ the DMV

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I buy them, set them up, and give them as gifts to people overseas. I'm always telling them to call Summit or Jegs for parts... Or call this shop or that... Now they can! Plus when they call my mobile it's free if they're at home!

     

    I just got eerie email from DMV,.. "Your registration expires Sept28"... I look.... I paid two weeks ago, got a receipt, got a transaction record at the bank...

     

    Hmmmm.... Go back and read it again "Ineligible to renew online"???? Hmmmmm.... Back to the notice I got in August,..no such disclaimer. SO: 15 August I get notice to renew (save a stamp, renew via the Internet!) 2 September I do a direct debit and get a receipt emailed to me. I see thy bank transaction go through....

    Two weeks later (Sep 21) I get this note "you gotta renew by the 28th"!!!

     

    WTF?

     

    This one gets a transfer to NV first landed day in CA! I was going to garage them in CA for easy access from the airport, but this BS? Screw 'em! I'll take my registrations where it's easy to deal with. Like the 4 years or so I registered in Alabama!!!

    Picked up a used welder

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Skip the HF Welder, go with a brand name.

     

    I'm not normally that way with HF Stuff, but on the wire feed welders....."never again"!

     

    Buy a Miller, Lincoln, Marquette, ESAB, etc.... Hell, some here have given good reviews on Eastwood's Welders (who knows who makes them?)

    MAP sensor install with triple Webers

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    The Megasquirt guys did this a decade ago.... the consensus was the ONLY capacitance necessary was provided by a small engine gas filter. Anything more and the MAP started getting sluggish in response.... and if you have sluggish MAP response then you get hesitation.

     

    There IS such a thing here as "Too Big" and the brake booster is it!

     

    You DO NOT want a separate reservoir with the MAP taken from it!!! That is TERRIBLE and when you put a megatune on it and datalog you start seeing the disconnected lag that results in longer larger TPS Dot enrichments to cover the lag that you normally wouldn't have if you piped it properly.

     

    Let me put it this way: Look at a GM MAP sensor, or the old Honda PGM FI MAP sensor and see how they are plumbed. Yeah, I know, a common plenum manifold, but the MAP sensor is RIGHT THERE with maybe a 6" hose. 

     

    The impulse spike from a dedicated runner manifold can be mitigated somewhat by using a BALANCE TUBE, and taking your MAP there but if you are running Carbs it becomes a BITCH to synchronise and mixture adjust the carbs properly then unless you make it easily isolated... Really that's the best compromise, and most people run the balance tube as it makes a vacuum tap easy for A/C etc...  But if you are running without one, then you want a dedicated line and a variable orifice which you trim for best response using your datalogs. WOT vs MAP change, %Throttle Angle Change vs MAP change, etc. As stated, most guys found sticking a Briggs & Stratton or Weed Whacker fuel filter in the line worked out just right to dampen the pulses but not add so much volume that MAP Lagged.

     

    "BEEN HERE DONE THIS!"

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