Ivan280zt

Here is great deal on 2jzge-t: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?645570-2jz-ge-w-bw-s372-BL-2.5mm-HG-sp-quick-spool-valve-ebay-mani-ebay-intake-mani

Sounds great man I would really love to have full cf front end since I am painting my car white and some cf doors would look great on there too!!!

Any chance of you guys making cf fenders for S30's and if not is that something you guys can do as one off?

Man I am so damn jeleous man! She was worth the wait for sure now go get her running!

Evan, Hey bud not really sure how long it has been down but I would say somewhere since mid to late 2007. I have been working on it on and off since mid 2008.

Sorry about that yes the spring is at full extension as it sits.

Factory weld that used to hold factory spring pearch is whats preventing sleeve from going down any further. What my powder coating guy is using is eastwood texture finish black powder coat.

...and long way to go. LoL Worked on my rear suspension last night and got these guys put together: 250lbs hypercoil springs, five way adjustable struts, good used 280z strut tops, and brand new 5" coil over sleeve/nut from A-1 Racing All together I really like this picture Front end suspension is next on the list.

I would love to get my hands on some cf doors and fenders for my 280z project! Mine are gone to crap from rust and age and even if I find good used set they will still need work done to be presentable... I am thinking whole cf front end on my Z with cf doors and then paint rest of the car white mmmmmm....

I have not done much in last week or two just little odds and ends here and there... Stock diff muount next to Arizona Z Car billet aluminum mount Rear diff primed, painted, and finned cover installed Ron Tyler diff mount This is going to be NOISY!!! I don't think that this diff is going anywhere... If there is one thing that I have no desire to learn that thing would be body work that stuff just kills me so I got me "hired gun" my buddy Richard to take care of my engine bay. He is in charge of making engine bay looking presentable and I have all the faith in him. He started working on it last night and his estimate on finishing it with paint is 2-3 weeks (few nights a week). This is really messed up when I took this picture everything "looked" clean and fine but when the flash came on you can see all the bondo dust in the air! I should have some more updates by end of the week.

Man to be honest most fun I ever had with me Z was when my L-28 was making just shy of 400whp that was soooo much fun so I know for the fact that you will enjoy your setup!

Now that is clean swap great job man!

Finally got done with spraying on WURTH under coating and I have to say I really like it alot. Grey really looks good and I belive that everything else will come together better with greay background instead POR-15 black background. I know that not everyone will like grey undercoating and thats fine I just had good feel about it and I went with it. Some parts that are finally ready to go back on. Lsd R-200 as dirty as it gets. Afther hour or two of cleaning in this order: wire wheel, simple green wash, and whole can of paint stripper. Overkill? Hell yeah but I just wanted to make sure that it was clean before I spray primer and paint. Mustache bar, dog legs, and finned cover brace installed and to be honest it felt really good to actually put parts on the car instead removing them... Paint on the rear diff should be dry by tomorrow night so that will get installed next.

I am not really sure how much it took me since I did it few nights a week after work but if I had to guess it would be somewhere around 20-25 hours. I used one propane and one map gas torch with scraper.

Lets not even go there... LoL

Man to be honest I really don't care about water getting trapped anywhere especially since I wont drive car in the rain and it will just sit in the garage most of the time. This is my first time around building Z car like this so I expect to make plenty of mistakes so when I do next build I will have better idea at what works and so on...

I let the POR-15 dry off for about a week then I used 220 grit sand paper and I lightly sanded down everything to get rid of smooth finish. Next day after sanding it down I cleaned off everything with clean rag and applied undercoating on. I did however spray one SUPER light coat of undercoating on one small section of POR-15 just to see how it would bond and after about two hours I could not take it off with my nails and true cure time is 24-48 hours.

Finally got done with first part of undercoating chassy and to be honest I really have no desire to do this again any time soon... This is how undercarriage looked afther scrubbing it down with Marine Clean and Metal Ready. I had to wash off each chemical afther it was scrubbed and wow talk about freaking mess imagine having to wash udercarriage in the SHOP!!! Some six hours later POR-15 is applied to whole undercarriage. Now that POR-15 is done I layed down first coat of WURTH undrcoating just waiting for two days to dry off good then I am going to apply second coat.

With the applicator gun I can control pressure for better spray pattern that is only better reason I can think off. I went this route because I was not sure how many cans I would need and Wurth guy stops by my dealership every Tuesday and I think that he got me everything for under $130.

More parts showed up over last few weeks afther this round all I will have to get are my wheels but they will have to wait until I get flares installed and offset figured out. Wurth grey undercoating and spray gun (oem porsche, vw, audi and so color). Sp quick spool valve with new option of single piece blade and upgraded shaft. Zg flares from Classic Datsun

I have been working on engine bay for the past two weeks few hours afther work here and there. I got all the holes closed off and rust spots cut out and fixed. Here are picturs of how engine bay looks now not much left but to sand it down before bondo work. Engine bay paint stripped down all the way. Few more hours of sanding and it will be ready for bondo/prier/paint.

Engine bay is going to be gray (until full painjob) and whole underdoby is going to be painted gray. I know what you mean about black overpowering everything else but trust me I got a plan on how to keep it diverse.

My five lug brake kit from Arizona Z Car came in few weeks ago I just never got around to take pics of it so here they are. Front five lug conversion. Front and rear five lug brakes. AZC billet bump stops and wilwood proportioning valve

More and more goodies have been coming in I think that there might be few more things to order down the road. Here are Tokico shocks for 280z Arp 2jz rod bolts and Titan 2jz cam gear bolts. Brand new OEM Toyota parts now I am pretty sure that I have every single bolt, nut, and stud for 2j.

I measured holes down to .001" so there are no gaps but either way they will be welded from inside of the car and tack welds from outside will be ground down.