jeromio

No. It mounts right up top, next to the Search button....

Nooooo! Carbs = Smelly (as in bad, and, well, smelly)

Could that possibly be an 1/8 mile time? Either way, his English is oh so much better than my Japanese....

Very slick. Regarding this: The other perspective is that the welds themselves are very attractive. It would be possible to smooth everything over, but then those would look just like ordinary bent tubes, rather than the painstakingly created works that they are. It's all a matter of taste. I saw a Harley once where the guy had created all the fenders, tank, etc. using small sheet sections that were meticulously welded together. The rear fender was over 20 individual pieces. To some of us, I nice fillet weld is a beautiful thing. The body work on that cars is amazing. The shape of the rear flares is incorporated thru to the doors. the front flares don't even look like flares. You have to view a "normal" S30 side by side to tell the difference. I whince at the thought of scraping that lovely exhaust system on a speed bump. He really should put in some beefy frame rails - if only to protect those nice pipes. Interesting that it's a left hand drive car. I wonder if this is meant to go to the states?

I've only used mine a few times thus far, but one "project" saved me $150. Remodelling my kitchen (which is why I have no time for the Z), we picked out a particular stainless steel sink. It comes in over mount and undermount, the latter being $150 more!. Same sink, just that the undermount had the lip part cut off. So, I bought the overmount and just zipped that lip right off. Took about 4 minutes. Rockin. You know what's fun is cutting circles. Take a roll of tape or something, lay it down on the sheet metal victim, grab torch, Zip. Instant circle. No justification, just fun is all. When I started hunting around for more victim metal I came to my senses and put it away. Too much work to do anyway....

Unless you buy the $3K version of LS1Edit, it is locked to a single VIN number, which means it can only be used with one PCM. You can, however, pay to have more VINs added, up to a certain number. Does Dynatec already have your cash? B/C there are lots of LS1 harness guys. Speartech sells harnesses for example. Painless sells one for the 98 LS1.

The cowl drain is part of what I was talking about. I mean, it is of course possible that I did a crappy job, but I took everything apart and sealed it all up. I filled that under the cowl area with water before putting it all back together and it didn't leak But, yeah, it's leaking from somewhere...

My car is not rain compatible. Wipers, terrible. Defrost, nonexistent. Handling, terrifying. Floorboards, puddle. I suspect that my car has some rear toe issues, leading to the white-knuckle effect. I don't know why it leaks so bad. I completely re-did the fresh air thing in the cowl. I guess it's the windshield gasket. But a good rain will put 2 inches of water in the passenger side footwell in less than an hour. I can't really see where it comes in from. Frustrating. So, I just don't drive the car in the rain.

Both of my local open late, cheapo autoparts stores (Autozone and Advanced) sell both Ford and GM "new style" fluid connection parts. They have fittings, tubing, etc. What I did was buy a piece of the specially flared tubing (both ends flared) and cut it in half. That got me from GM wierdnes to standard hard tube. To that I attached regular ferrule style tube fittings adapted to flare tube. But I could just as easily have used a ferrule to AN fitting. Also, the fuel filter has one end with the wierd fitting that can attach to the nylon stuff, and the other end female flare tube threaded. I modified the nylon tube that goes to the sender by cutting it, and then bending it 90*. My fact serv. manual had desc. - you boil the tubing for a while and it gets somewhat pliable. So I got it into a reasonable approximation of the bend I needed. The boil trick also helps when putting a barbed fitting in the nylon which is how I went with the return line back to sender - barbed fitting from HomeDepot right into the nylon that had the correct fitting for the sender on the other end. For my fuel rail return line (99 fuel rail), which is just a vapor return really, it turned out that a plain old airtool fitting worked perfectly.

Local fab is hard to find unless you live in LA. You never know what a guy that claims to be a welder, or even a fabricator will do quality wise. As far as concern about the residual gas fumes - what about just taking your tank in to a radiator shop to get boiled out? Won't be any fuel left in it after that process. My grandfather used to weld up tanks with the fuel still in them. A little bit too sure of himself I think. His point was that the liquid is not flammable, it's the fumes. Which is true, and yet....

Actually, if you are going to use O2 sensors at all, they need to be as close to the engine as possible. They depend on heat to work accurately. What you do with that signal is up to the tuning. I don't think altering the performance of the motor by degrading the accuracy of the O2 signal is a reliable way to tune. Great thing about the LS1 is there are ways to to tweak the programming. You can buy LS1 Edit (which, since you have a shop you might consider doing - then you can hop up C5s and FBodies). Or you can either send in your PCM to a tuner or take the car to a shop. There's also the hand-held tuners like Hyper-whatever it's called and Diablo. And the New Zealand company Starr Performance that makes the diag tool (which I hope to buy soon) efilive has a new package out that lets you alter settings also. You can also run without O2 sensors (unless your state requires an inspection of course). I have problems with mine so I just disconnected them and the car runs in Closed Loop mode. I will be buying new sensors (they're $$$) and paying to get my car dyno tuned this summer.

I used PVC. I happenned to have a little section of 4" dia. I cut a tiny slice off (1/4"), then I cut out a slot (to make it a "C"). I painted it black (but you can't see it anyway). I drilled 4 countersunk holes in it, then glued it in place and attached it with screws. So now I have a lip for the guage to seat against.

Problem is fixed for me. Not sure if there was a change int he site s/w, but I've been periodically running thru the "fix it procedure" on the various PCs I access the site from and yesterday it started working for me. Can't seem to change my signature (wanna put a link to the search page in there ), but that is most definitely a minor point.

Seems rather pricey. Couple of places (Summit for one) sell Halogen replacement kits. It's like $20 per for each lens shell thing and $20/pair for the bulbs. Still need relays (which this Sylvania kits seems to lack). Also, it sounds like this is high beam only? They mention the need for a low beam kit. Also also, there's no mention of bulbs being included.

Just so you know that you are actually paying about the same $ in order to keep the stock guages (vs. going with aftermarket). Curious about this brass plug in the left head. Only plug I saw was the steel one in the pass head, near the firewall. This is where my temp sensor went. Are you using the (now broken) orig. oil sender as a plug for the orig LS1 hole (behind the manifold)?

Those truck manifolds that qwik240z posted (in another thread) may fit. Stock oil pressure switch is entirely separate from the ECU - it does not use that signal at all. You will of course need some kind of oil press. sender there though. I used the Autometer sender (with an adapter, some fittings, etc. - the autometer sender is HUGE) with an autometer guage. The ECU does use the signal from the water temp in the driver side head though. I put my autometer sender in the pass. side head - the heads are identical, pass side has a plug. Adapters are sold in a package. Got mine from a Yahoo shop ("barn" something?). Was the intake off the motor when you dropped it in then? Must've been or you would've also broken the MAP sensor housing. Mine was broken. Nevermind - you did mention getting an LS6 manifold. That speedo adapter thingio is a bit of an expensive Rube Goldberg. An electric speedo costs about half as much. I guess if you truly must insist onstock guages, it's the only way to go.

FWIW, I use Mozilla and I have this problem also. I tried the instructions, no avail. However, I did not have the problem until I updated my profile. Before then, everything worked as before with no problems. It could be a coincidence, but you never know. BTW, if you press "Submit" on a post, and it asks you to log in, just use your browser's Back button - text should be there (at least it is on Moz - you never know what BillG's browser will do )

I know I'll regret typing this, but you could make a cross member/mount setup like mine in about 4 hours. The thing does not have to come out of the car. Requires about $30 worth of metal from HomeDepot (their prices suck, but they're open saturdays). I keep saying I will take measurements, and then I never do. I suck. I have a 4L60e mount sitting on my work bench. It's rather unique looking and requires mods to the tunnel (welding in plates with threaded holes). You can get a nice welder for $500. It's a great tool to have. I paid $70 for my Dewalt angle grinder about 10 years and 5million grinding wheels ago. You get into trouble when you start taking things apart to sandblast and paint them. I dunno why I persist in doing that since my car looks like crap - bubbling paint, dented rear quarter, no interior, wires all over. Oh well. Anyway, once you have the measurements that place the motor in the correct location with the right driveline angles - that's a huge part of it. I'm certainly not tryna copyright that info. I'm just not altruistic enough to go crawling around the car taking it all down. Too many other projects. Maybe I'll get my son to do it as a summer project. He's actually very anal retentive about such things - he'd do a better job than me. I'll set him up a Paypal account and he can sell the measurements for $2! Might be a good source of video game money for him. The other stuff also adds up. The wiring, the fuel routing. Those soaked up a giant amount of time. And they're no where near as fun as mounting the drivetrain. Exhaust was challenging, but that was kind of fun too. If you really want to come out ahead on time, I would spend money on a Speartech wiring harness and a C5 fuel rail. Also a fuel cell and aftermarket pump. In other words, for me at least, the motor mounting was "thing". It was the hobby aspect that I enjoyed. It's what I think of when people ask me about my car. I try and block out all the late nights spent analyzing wiring schematics. That's the thing you want to just throw money at.

You really should try the search button. I know it was broken a little while ago, but it works now. I just tried it to make certain (in fact, I used the title of this post and got lots of good hits). We don't mind getting "bugged" with questions. That's what these boards are for. We do mind if you ask questions that have been asked and answered before. It's just not efficient. You'll get better search results if you choose the "all terms" option. Otherwise, you end up with alot of not very useful threads that are general with non-specific info. You'll also turn up alot of your own questions (which is why not using the search feature ends up making the search feature less useful - ironic isn't it). Now that I'm done being bitchy, I don't think anyone has tried the H2 manifolds or any truck manifold for that matter. The passenger side looks similar to the Fbody unit, and the driver's side actually looks like it may fit better. The FBody dr side outlet comes out more towards the middle which creates some steering shaft interference. It looks to me like that one would fit nicely. I wouldn'e want to spend that much $ to find out though. I'm sure you could find plain truck manifolds for much less. Hard to tell from that pic, but I'm guessing that the flanges will have to be cut off or significantly modified (just like the FBody units). C5 manifolds will not fit.

Well, I sucked it up and ordered the heim ends. Found some at Summit for $9 each including jam nuts. Since I had to pay the $9 "handling fee", I went ahead and ordered the Hooker 2-into-1 resonator that I have been eyeballing. That handling fee is clever...

Anyone have any recommendations for hardware sources? I've decided I'd like to use the 5/8-18 female parts I already have wince they're nice and the threads are fine (as opposed to coarse). I just cannot track down anyplace that has 5/8-18 reverse threaded bolts. I'm pretty much ready to order the only thing I can find, which right now is a set of heim joints for $11 each from Grainger. Seems a shame since I'll just be cutting those off - all I need are the threads.

Well, not really. The kernel of the example is that the ball joint is farthest from the car center line when the arm is straight out. But when the arm<->strut tower angle is 90* is the camber change point - north of this point the gain is positive. (by strut tower, I mean this line between strut top and lower arm inner pivot) In my view the interplay of these 2 points (arm straight out and the arm/tower 90*) is the camber curve sweet spot. Well, yes and no. The main point is that the camber curve is non-linear sigmoid. There is a (narrow) range where camber change with compression is increasing negative. But then it flops and the camber change switches to increasing positive. In my version of the story, this point is arm<->strut tower angle = 90*. There's a long thread over at cc.com where this is all described by people (engineers, much smarter than me) in terms of the arm<->strut angles - but I had a hard time relating to that explanation.

Looks like Fastenal has online ordering - although I am hesitant to order stuff once again. I can never get to that place before they close. I tried Public - nada.

Okay. If I read that right, you're not disagreeing with me, just adding more precise data - yes? In other words, camber starts going positive after around 13* of pointing up. Even with my pivot hole mod, my arms are still a bit upwardly pointed. Springs are stiff though, so I don't get much roll though, so there probably is little chance of seeing this positive camber effect. So, the effects are probably similar in the rear. The struts angle is probably about the same - the tops are more in board but the arms are longer too.

Maybe the issue is that due to the geometry, the camber gain is negligible. However, it is fairly easy to visualize. The angle of the wheel (camber) is fixed relative to the strut. So, if you disconnect the bottom (ball joint) of the strut, you can get crazy with the camber by moving that bottom point in towards the car (positive camber) or out, away from the car (negative). Since the lower control arm is what locates this bottom point, it determines the camber. Imagine a straight line made by the inner pivot point and the strut top, but have it continue above and below. If you stick the lower arm straight out from the frame of the car, that ball joint is at it's longest point away from that line. At all other angles, the ball joint is closer to the line. So that position, where the lower arm is 90* right angle to the strut top<->lower pivot line, is the max camber position of the suspension. If negative camber is a good thing, then ideally, that would be the point where most of your cornering occurs. So you'd want your arms to be at a greater than 90* angle at static ride height. Part of the reason for relocating the pivot point upwards is to alleviate the bad effects of lowering the car to the point that the arms actually point up at static ride height. I don't actually know what angle the arms are relative to the road when they're at 90* to the strut<->pivot line, but I strongly suspect that once the arms (on the front) are past the horizontal, the angle is less than 90*. Much respect to JohnC and TerryO - I'd really like to see the threads where they state that the front wheel of a lowered Z does not gain positive camber during compression....? I'm tempted to go jack up my car, loosen the spring perches and play this out with an angle finder and a digicam. Well, not all that tempted - I think I'll just go to bed instead... 8) Anyway, that is a loooong winded way of saying that I'm fairly (not 100%) confident in my understanding of camber gain in the front. I dunno about the rear though. Strut tops are much farther inboard in the rear. So though I'm sure the effects are the same, the relative angles and measurements are not.