jeromio

Get a Sony - we have this one: http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=Gi5wX6_BU39wZpF6qVF6VODMd1Smt4coa54=?ProductID=3ToKC0%2eN%2enIAAAD15bnx3AxE It's quite nice. 'Course, I am biased.....

I just got off the phone with a friend of mine. Told him about my maiden trip down the highway in my LS1 car. He wanted impressions and I said I pretty much scared the crap outta myself - and that was just in a little jaunt without even approaching WOT. His response: "Wasn't that the whole point? Building a really fast car?" Well, yeah. But that was just theory. In practice - well, let's just say it's gonna take me awhile to get used to this. This is totally stock BTW. And it's not even running well (closed loop issues). We seem to have had a spate of posts from newbies lately talkin about how they want/need 500, 700 or even 1000hp! Madness! As far as I recall, those famous videos of Darius's car are with a low compression stroked 383. I could be wrong, but I think he had problems with the blower and it wasn't even connected. It really does not take much power to light up a little 2500 pound car. And it really really doesn't take much to peel treads in 3rd or 4th gear when you're limited to 245 tires. That said, I'm sure there will come a time when I get used to this monster and want more. But before I tamper with the motor I will DEFINITELY have a cage fender flares and at least 10 inch rims.

I drove my car on Sunday. Fast. Very fast. And loud. And running crappy in closed loop mode - need to fix that.

I'll bet it's the ignition switch. Mine failed in almost the exact same manor. Here's the deal: There are 3 circuits in the switch: Acc. On, Ign. On and Start. But there are 4 leads, and I presume (without having actually opened up the switch), actually 4 distinct circuits. 2 of them are on Start. So when you turn the key to start, you have Starter On, but also "other stuff that needs to be on for the engine to run". So the accessories are Off during start, but the ECM, the Coil, etc. all need to be ON. My switch was turning the Starter on just fine. But all that "other stuff" that is wired to the Ign. On circuit was being turned OFF! Took me awhile to figure this out. But you can easily test this in a couple of ways. Just unplug the connector to the switch, and put test leads between the white/red wire (the main) and the other 4. From vague memory, I think black/yelloow is start. Don't remember the other 3. You can also just put a lead on the coil wire and verify that it is still hot while you start. But the Ign. On circuit should Stay on when the key goes to Start. Not sure how a switch could fail in such a strange way, but I know mine did.

I gots plenty o' stands - just need to replace my broken jack. I'm looking at getting this one: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=375706&storeId=6970&catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&langId=-1&cmemid=EFP090501p01c01 I'm tired of the 2 step jacking procedure. This one has a nice low 3 1/2 inch height.[/img]

Yeah, that requires software upgrade. I have just the generic autotap. I think bullets may have to get bitten. I also need to buy a damn floor jack - that's an extra $150 or so I hadn't planned on. I need to put it up on stands and go over all the bolts, etc. before I really drive it.

I have Autotap. I need to get EFILive. But, I also need to stay married (spent alotta dough on the car this past month). I was getting a MAP high (0108) when it wasn't starting. Got it once more when it did start. I cleared that. I also got a knock sensor code, cleared it. I get CAGS repeatedly, which is odd since that was supposedly deleted. But, on the last 8-10 starts I've gotten no codes. MAP and TPS definitely work since I can see real time data. Will the O2s look clogged if they are? Mine appear fine. I do have them up closer than stock - I had to weld in bungs that are pretty much right at the collectors. I went and filled the tank with premium - it is driveable. I just have to baby it and nurse the throttle when it's stopped. This car is freaking crazy fast by the way. Really scary fast. And LOUD. Needs a resonator in the tunnel. It's really really loud.

Hit with the big A.S.S. once again. You wanna know what the problem was? Spark plugs were fouled. So, it started before I put th enew gauges in with these crapped out plugs. Damned-est thing. Still have some problems. It runs rough once it warms up and is easy to kill.

Dude, you really need to get familiar with that search button. Easily half of your questions could be answered with a quick search of this site. There's also a little bit of info here: http://240z.jeromio.com/faq/ that would answer some questions also.

Yep. Even tried stuff like connecting the PCM 12v leads directly to a separate battery (someone on LS1tech suggested that the PCM required at least 12V and that the drop during cranking, in my case down to 11V waould cause a no start). I have tried so much stuff. The PCM seems to be "turning off" during cranking, if that makes any sense. The only real clue that I have is that the diagnostic cable (Autotap) disconnects (has a red "on"/"connected" LED) during cranking. But all the grounds are good, connector 12v is good during cranking, and all the 12v leads to PCM have power during cranking. This is such an annoying mystery. I have fuel pressure, I have spark. I haven't been able to check injector cycling. But like I said, it appears the PCM is not running when the key gets turned. I verified that the autotap should stay lit during start by connecting it to my other car.

I tell you, more people have mentioned that - including my 8 year old son. And really, I don't mind. I have overlooked the obvious on prior occasions. I ought to get a fuel pressure gauge, just for good measure. I've been checking by loosening the cap on the rail - fuel sprays out vigorously. I try to always follow the A.S.S. rule: It's Always Something Simple. But I've totally exhausted all the simple possiblities - over and over in fact.

Still nothing. I have checked and re-checked. And re-checked again. And again. This is literally driving me insane.

Yeah, I hate to detract from the subject of this thread, but I'm very curious about the 3.43 LSD too....

I have a strong preference for number 1. I might also suggest a number 4: a short sleave, button up Dickie's shirt with the logo on the front left. I have a Horton Heat concert shirt like this in dark blue with a black Horton logo patch. Alternatively, if someone could provide the embroidered patches, that'd be cool. Then we could put 'em on any clothing we want. I'd put a bunch of them on my overalls. Track people could put them on the suits.

So, I've been wiring up gauges since Friday. All done. Was getting ready for the big test drive. After allllll this time. But, the damn thing won't start. Can't believe it. It has started every time I've tried since the very first time. But now that I'm ready to drive it - it's dead. Crank, crank, crank. No fire. Poured over all the wires and finally gave up for the day. Ugh.

The T56 is the whole reason I want a 3.36. First gear is only good for stump pulling or tire boiling.

If I ever do find one, it's goin in my car....

Right off the bat I can tell you that the text on those FAQ nav buttons is illegible on my PC. I like the rollover effect with the diagram though.

The hydraulics are actually fine. The jacking mechanics inside the arm - the parts that link the ram to the lifting bit (thick, 3/8" metal) actually bent and allowed the cross piece that holds almost all the weight to slip out. Not pretty. It may have been ready to fail for a long time. I've had this floorjac, that I bought for $35 dollars from Autozone, for about 12 years now. I started looking at new jacks about 6 months ago. Really want a fancy one like this: Long, with a very low profile for sneaking under my lowered car. But damn, them sucker is pricey.

Working on gauge wiring. Gotta get to the VSS. Need to jack up the car. Slide jack under, jack it up, look for creepie-crawlie - oh yeah, right, be an adult, not a dumb-ass and grab a jackstand and stick it under there first. Go to grab the jackstand and KERPOW!! So, I guess it's time to go buy a new floor jack..... (Boy am I glad to not be dead)

My tab for shipping the A4 from NC to Iowa (or was it Indiana?) was like $90 using R&L. As I recall, the guy wanted to pick it up from the terminal, but the truck picked up the trans from my house. I don't remember exactly, but I recall thinking he was foolish for picking it up because I don't think it saved him much more than $20 or something.

Kit? You think that's some kind of kit? I don't think so. That looks like a one off glass rendition of a Z, bolted to a tube frame race chassis.

Fedex? That's crazy talk. Try these guys: http://www.rlcarriers.com/index.asp I researched this quite a bit when I had to ship a 4L60E (which by my gluteal calculations is a heavier pig than the T56 - could be wrong though). They were much less expensive than everyone else, had complete online package tracking, were very friendly and helpful and the trans made it all the way from NC to Indiana, door to door, in 3 days flat.

I think the extra crossmember method with the corvette mounts is gonna be the easiest, most cost effective LS1 mounting method. Then you can lop off your datsun motor towers and have zero accessory mounting problems which further simplifies and eliminates costs. I guess that's not entirely true - the A/C bracket needs some massaging to work properly And you have to buy an idler pulley (available at Autozone, Kragen, etc.) to delete the PS pump. Very minor issues. It'd be key for someone like Ross or Mike to offer a kit along these lines for those without fabrication skills. T56 or 4L60e can be mounted with a simple bracket or other such solution just like a "normal" JTR swap. Slave cyl. is still a pain in the ass - although at least now it's a documented pain in the ass. If you have a few hundred bucks, you could buy a swap harness from GM or Speartech and be finished pretty quickly. The LS1 harness does not need to co-mingle with the datsun wiring at all. Adapting an FBody (or C5) harness does require some work though. As to using stock gauges: you could probably put the datsun oil and water senders in the LS1 pretty easily. I guess it's possible to use the datsun fuel sender, but I think either using the FBody sender/pump assembly or complete tank will be simpler and save some money (aftermarket pumps and FPRs are very pricey). Should be able to tweak the resistance signal from the FBody sender to work with the datsun gauge. But, the speedo: the VSS->mechanical adapter is actual more expensive than an electronic speedo. I guess it's a matter of personal preference.

Wow. This thread suddenly got ALOT more appealing. At a few points I considered an attempt at a roast such as Z-Tard's - but there's no way mine would've been nearly as good. That was funny. But HeavyZ's poem/song - unbeatable. Holy crap that was entertaining. Not only was it really funny, but damn - it rhymes! You guys rock.