jeromio

Just one big suggestion: Get the thing in the car and drive it around for awhile Before you even consider a power-adder such as the blower. This is a 2500lb car. Without 12 inch slicks, your gas pedal is going to be useless.

Big nasty gashes, yes. I quit using the air chisel after 2 such bigguns. USed the sawzall and grinder on the other one. It's kind of a bear of a job since you gotta position whatever tool it is way up in that there tunnel (rotisserie'd be nice). The flange metal is like 16ga and the tunnel metal is like 22ga. Plus, when you're all done, there's really no easy way to make it look nice. I think if I had to do it over, I'd just cut out those 2 sections of the tunnel and weld back some nice fresh sheet. Or possibly just order one of those pre-formed tunnels that Jegs and Summit sell for race cars - cut the entire Datsun tunnel out completely. As to the auto, I know that the 700R4/4L60E are FAT mofos. You're gonna have to beat the crap out of that tunnel to get 'em to fit. And then you've got to get your exhaust pipes to maneuver around that gigantic trans pan. Don't use anything larger than 2 1/4 tubing. Also, that 4L60e shifter (700R4 the same?) points down right where you'll want to run your driver's side pipe.

There's JTR, which uses setback plates. Mike Knell sells a book with plans as well as the actual parts for the "kit" for around $500. The hit also includes a trans mount since you can't use the stocker (too far forward). The other benefit of JTR is that you can use a T5 or T56 manual as well as an automatic. The "other" way of which you speak involves simply bolting the Chevy mounts to the Datsun towers. This is refered to as the "Scarab" style. There ain't no setback plates and the engine sits right over the crossmember, about 3 inches forward of where it sits in the JTR method and a manual shifter lever would end up being located under the dash. John's Cars sells a very expensive "kit" for this scarab style mounting method. He's very adamant on his web page about the importance of not divulging the intellectual property tied up in his kit, and therefore there are no details. I think you give him $700 and he mails you 2 bolts

theoompaloompa: "Most V8 swaps i've seen have major issues with weight distribution unless done correctly" Dude, that is just a retarded thing to say. Firstly, Anything done incorrectly is bound to have problems. Secondly, what are these "problems" you allude to anyway? I could refer you to a huge, 100+ thread on Scarab vs. JTR (if search was working) that makes it difficult to even say that a V8 swap done "incorrectly" will have problems on a road course. However, there certainly are issues with a V8 swap that are not simple and straight-forward, even if you simply buy the complete JTR kit. But if yer talkin cheapo performance swap, I don't think V8 vs. L28T is any kind of easy decision by a longshot. By my rough estimates while researching this, a low budget swap of either engine works out about the same, +/- 100 and or 40hrs of labor or so. In other threads, planning has been emphasized and this is good. What would you like to end up with is what you should ask yourself. Performance, drivability (economy), reliability, parts and know-how availability, etc. But this is really a two-fold question. Because if you're considering a swap, it suggests something about you. You really won't ever be done until you either sell the car (or wreck it) or you die. Therefore there is the short-term and the long term. Do you want to work and work until some final culmination (ala pparaska)? Or do you want to mod, drive, mod, drive, mod (ala, I dunno, I'm a pretty good example). From there, the other two Major considerations are time and money. But a hidden issue that runs thru this whole discussion is basic luck. In other words, if I had happened upon a complete, running L28T setup, would I be where I am now with my project? Very likely not. Things come up, both good and bad. Be flexible.

What Perry said. The stock setup has the frame rails sorta gradually pinched along their length and then the pinch is most pronounced where the crossmember goes.

Beam - floor support? If yours are good and straight and solid, then just run your new lines right next to one of them - preferably driver's side. Just buy some of those clampy rubber lined things to attach it. Have you checked your local parts store for the GM fuel line fittings? And I don't mean just asking them cuz they're not gonna know what yer talkin bout. I shoulda kept my packaging with the numbers and such on it. The stuff is sold as repair parts for GM fuel lines. The same company also sells tranny lines for very late model Chrysler, ford and chevy. Oh, and there's one that adapts to the fuel filter too.

I choose NO CARB!! EFI EFI EFI! This is my chant.

But then where do you put the extra 50gal fuel tank??

BTW, My Contour (well, Wife's Contour) SVT has the dual runners. One set long and skinny for low end and one set short and fat for raw upper hp. Very freaky. Behaves alot like a turbo. If you drive normally (like, when she drives), it's just fine. But, if you mash on it, there's a definite kick over at 3500rpm when the 2ndary flies open - like a big extra push. Even in like 3rd gear, you can get the car pretty squirrelly at that 3500rpm mark with the spinning and the smoking. 'Course that prolly explains alot about the condition of the front tires . Fun car.

LT5 vs. LS6 Some good info here as well as some links.

If I had the money I would buy LS1edit. In your case, some kind of programmable EFI - possibly the Holley or SDS. Maybe even the hole LT1 setup (for which there is a tool called LT1Edit). Like on my truck for instance, if I had the money, I would switch from carb to EFI, then I would ceremoniously smash the shibbit out of that damn carb with a 5lb hammer. Then I would get the torch out and melt down the remains. I hate carbs.

Yes. There are 8 coils, one for each spark plug. The Vettes have fancy plastic covers that cover up the coilpacks that are mounted to each valve cover. They call these "Fuel Rail covers" which doesn't make any sense since they're covering the coils.

If you're replacing your floors due to rust, then your floor supports are probably rusted as well. So, they will have to be replaced. You have to weld the supports to the floors and the forward frame rails to the supports. This is structural. Unless you've got some kind of elaborate, hi tech, mega soldering process in mind. Solder is fine for surface sheet metal that is cosmetic: fenders, cowls, etc. But on a unibody car, the floors are stressed to some degree. Especially when you put a hipo motor up front. Besides, I can't imagine soldering being easier than welding. You have to have a tight overlap of <I>very</I> clean metal. I could see spot welding or stitch welding the materials together, and then soldering in the rest of the seam. But I can't see why this would be desirable or efficient. A lap joint welded on both sides will not corrode - as long as there are no "holes" in the seam(s) for water vapor to enter. Plus it is <B>very</B> strong.

TTT!

I put a little update up at http://240z.jeromio.com/motorswap Looooong ways to go. Plus I have to send in my PCM to get reprogrammed. Not gonna make it to Mikelly's gathering Also, I think that by grinding away 0.450 inches from the A/C bracket, I can get the compressor to fit. I figure 0.25 from the inside part of it and 0.2 from the outside (engine side). Then again, I dunno why I'm wasting my time on this since I don't exactly need A/C to get the car running (and it's practically winter now). I need to get a fakey pulley and mount it up where the PS pump would normally be. Otherwise I don't think there'll be enough belt to wrap around the waterpump pulley. It's ironic, because it would be so much cleaner and easier if the waterpump had a real, ribbed pulley - could get reverse flow cooling as a bonus! (yeah, I know - the impeller is not designed to run backwards).

Please do not solder your floor pans. Hopefully you were just kidding. 12 ga is pretty thick, but I dunno, I think 18 ga is too thin. I mean, if you're gonna go to the trouble of making and installing new floors, you really oughtta use at least 16ga. Otherwise, you're basically going back to stock (although even 18 is much thicker than original). I used 14ga for my floors and I'm glad I did. I found a local place that cut and folded the metal for me (and actually 14ga is the thinnest sheet they carry) for about $25.

Hey, this is pretty serious. Any of you moderators have access to the server error logs?

Based purely on the highly unscientific muscling of engines into and out of bays, I'd say the stock LS1 is at least 50lbs lighter than the L28. HOWEVER! The LS1 swap is not to be undertaken lightly (pun so fun). It is a huge job with lots of fabrication required. JTR V8 is easy and cheap. I was too stubborn to go that route though. For L28Turbo, I would only consider it if you want (and kind find a whole car) ultra cheap midrange performance. Otherwise, you need a new turbo, a decent EFI system (such as SDS or Haltech), a good intercooler and basically, lots of money to feed it all.

At full lock, my 17X8 235/45 tires seem to have plenty of clearance for something wider. My old 14X8 225/65 tires had a fatter bulge and would rub very slightly against the TC rod at full lock. The clearance issues are not with the strut or even the fender lip though. It's when the wheels are turned all the way that clearance issues pop up. JohnC put a good blurb up on the FAQ about the variations between tires even when the sizes are identical. My current rims are 20mm offset which is pretty close to optimum for an 8 inch rim. In the rear, my unrolled fender lip is pretty close to the sidewall. I have maybe 1/2 inch on the inside with coilovers. So, I could roll the lip and probably fit a wider tire - around 245, depending on aspect and manufacturer specifics.

Henry - Nice brakes. Phantom - more room in the front than in the rear. In other words, whatever you can fit in the rear (unflared) will definately fit up front. I mean, you're not gonna be putting say, 245/50 on 8 inch rims in the rear and 275/45 on 9 inch up front, right? This whole wheel tire thing was the major reason for trying to start up that FAQ. Unfortunately, it kinda fell by the wayside. I'll add the info on Tim's wheel/tire combo to the list.

With stock ride height? I was uncomfortable taking my car past 100. Lowering it helped, but it still feels (felt - been awhile since I drove it ) skittish. Several members here have told me that a front airdam makes a tremendous difference with these cars since they tend to lift the front at speed without one. You can source a pretty conservative looking airdam like the BRE-style chin.

The 99 FBody also has the sheet metal manifolds. For LS1 engine parts, try valvegod@aol.com. He's famous on the LS1 boards, has almost any part and is very reliable. I have bought some sensors, a water pump, coil, lots of various things from him.

Lots of room in the front - the rear is where it's tight.

I had a slightly different idea (that I may actually implement in my lifetime - maybe). I would cut the current "flare" off the fender. Then I would slice it apart leaving 2 crescents, one with the lip and the other with the curved section that blends with the fender. Then I would weld the crved section back on, but further up (higher off the ground), by an inch or two. Then, I would weld a 3 inch ribbon of metal to that - this is the actual flare extension, the whole reason for the operation: get more rubber space. Then, I would weld the lip part to that. It is way more welding. It'd be easier if there were a source of cheap <B>metal</b> flares. Like porsche 930 type flares - except I wouldn't really want flares that extreme. I might not even attempt to weld the entire seam either. Just spot it every inch or two, and then fill it in with lead. Of course, I say that having absolutely nil experience with hot lead/solder. I do have loads of experience blowing holes in this thin Datsun sheet. BTW, I think calling it 20ga is generous. I'd settle for 22ga.

T56 will not work as is. Even in the C5, it's still not a transaxle in the classic sense - more of a transmission which has a diff bolted directly to the back. Traditional transaxles used in mid engined cars have the gearbox behind the differential relative to the bellhouse. You're best bet is the Porsche unit which is proven and relatively plentiful. It's expensive, but, there you go.