jeromio

Yeah, but capable though the stock brakes may be, they are pretty inadequate by todays standards. Thin, solid rotors do not absorb and dissipate heat very well. Personally, I am of the camp that says the 4X4 Toyota caliper upgrade (the early cals, retaining stock Z rotor), is a complete waste of time. It's not the first stop that sux, it's the 3rd and 4th. Too much heat. Save your time and money until you can put some big vented rotors up there.

Sorry...

619. But it's mostly due to a flaw in the programming. Grab, then mouse "off screen" and then bring it back to just at the left edge.

What kind of rack is that, Mustang? Those Al. motor mounts look nice. Not sure what to think about this "variable speed" compressor thing.All compressors on cars are variable speed - higher engine rpms, higher compressor speed. The only issue I see with using the camaro compressor is that the fittings may be hard to match up, but I'm not too worried about that (A/C will be like the last thing I get to). I haven't tried putting the compressor on with motor in the car. I did mount the alt though and it fit fine - no steering interference. I thought about doing it the way you are going - with the extra cross member. Certainly looks more straight forward. Had I known about those cast biscuit mounts, I might've gone that way. Vacations have eaten into my car time (just got back from the beach). Gonna try and mount my PCM today (up inside the passenger footwell is my plan). I had to wait to get my T56 shipped (since no one was here to sign for it). Still gotta get a clutch and master/slave. Also, the exhaust on the passenger side is soooo tight. I had it laid out, but could not figure out how/where to put the flange. I guess I'll put it low, below the frame, and then just add "remove starter" to the list of things to do when R&R'ing the exhaust. I can't even begin to imagine putting headers on this thing.

Anyone game for this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1845153565 Looks like those manifolds/turbos are pretty tight to the block. Very likely might fit a Z car. Since Incon is tits up, it'll probably be a looong while until there's another turbo setup for LS1s. Then again, not sure a Z would be very drivable with that much oooomph...

There's a dealership in PA that has a ls1.com GP special - like 25% off (Fred Beans Pontiac). Still gotta spend $500 plus shipping for the clutch, hydraulics, etc. I guess I priced my A4 too low ($450) since I have apparently sold it already - just gotta get it shipped. Almost covers the parts. Gonna be a net of $1200 for the switch to T56. This is happenning very fastly...

"LS1 Installation guide"?? What is this? I'd as where I can get one, but then, I'm almost done.... The Motor could definately go in very low, but at some point you'd hafta use a C5 oilpan. I could lower mine another 2 inches, but the Camaro oilpan is already looking pretty vulerable. Plus, that thing isn't going to just dent if it gets hit. Also, I didn't worry too much about getting it incredibly far back. Mine is actually about 1/2 inch (or possibly more) forward from where Lonestar1 mounted his. This hurt me for steering interference, but helps me with heat and A/C hoses. FBody Accessories won't fit with the Datsun motor towers in place.

Those wheels look very much like the Konig Monsoons I have on my car. I like that little spoiler lip thinger on the edge of the hatch. Is that fiberglass? Molded in - don't see a seam. Very subtle.

No cats. Dogs neither (I'm so funny). I don't even think there's any room in there for cats anyway - especially with an auto. My car is 71 - smog exempt in NC. But really, when I'm finished I'm sure it'll produce less HC, CO and NOx than any stock pre-1980 car anyway.

Tim240Z has some doc on the R230 swap. Some of his info is compiled into the Drivetrain section here: http://240z.jeromio.com/faq/

Well, I went ahead and bought a T56. It's a rebuilt unit - I think I got a pretty good deal. Now I have to get the clutch stuff. And sell my auto. I can't believe that the entire auto trans is worth less than a stock clutch setup....

Well, I guess if you want to be extreme, if you are rocketing off the line with 1/8 tank of gas, there may be a better chance of sucking fuel with the tank flipped. It's really not practical though, since the filler is on the the other side, plus with the fat part aft, it'll be visible below the valence. With the tank flipped backwards relative to Camaro OEM (ie, with the sump forward), it almost looks like a factory piece. I went to the local P&P yesterday and combed thru the varius wrecks looking for a filler. Didn't find anything simple. I ended up getting a filler from a 87 Maxima. The filler looked to be at a good angle - it actually fits in perfectly. The angle is such that the tube points straight down and the filler "funnel" is flush with the stock metal. Obviously the hole had to be cut out bigger. It also had a nice short piece of (apparently rubber) 90 degree tubing which turned out to be cut . I'm just gonna use some radiator hose. I had to cut the filler off the extremely long neck. I had thought I could make up the S from the rest, but the curves are not tight enough. I'll just by some bends. I connected the feed from the pump sender to the filter and then to a piece of special (expensive) steel tubing with the correct crimp and threaded fitting (from Autozone). It came with a union - I'm planning on using that to connect the steel to the aluminum. Good thing I bought those expensive Aeroquip fittings that I won't be using - anyone wanna buy em? I didn't get the opposite connectors for the wiring for my tank, so, I guess I gotta cut off those nice water tight connectors and use some crappy blade style which is a shame. My list is slowly getting shorter though....

Okay, well check this out: That's the "hydraulic throwout bearing" formerly known as a slave cylinder. Kinda cool in a way. And yet, another $100. Plus the Master - $200. Kripes. NO way will the Datsun master work with that sucker. Adjustable master is $300. Great. This is not adding up for me financially....

So, I'm tryna gather up funds, and the where-withal to direct them towards a T56. So, as part of this effort I am looking around for a clutch set. HolyCrap! $400-500! And this is for the bare bones stocker, not a fancy one. Last clutch kit I bought, for the L28, was $90. Before that was one for a Honda - $100. Jetta - $120 or so. This is really not helping my case. Not exactly something I can sneak in the budget.....

It really shouldn't matter. His claim seems to come down to "customer broke pump". Either you broke the pump when you unwrapped it ( - right), or the dude owes you dollars (or a new pump). Since he seemed pretty quick to blame the post office, sounds like maybe he planned this. I mean, it's a pretty hard thing to prove either way and unfortunately you're likely screwed. The best you can do is to let everyone on the various supra forums know about this guy. Not that it helps, but I've certainly read about people getting screwed for way more than $90 (eg those 125 people who paid Dave Inall (Incon) $6500 for LS1 TT kits and got jacked). If you used Paypal you can notify them too.

I've got some stickers I'll sell you that will give you an extra 5-10hp easily and I'll only charge you $100...

LS1 don't gots no vac advance. I think the res., S1 and the checkvalve are all meant to maximize vacuum in cases where the revs are low and someone is fiddling with all the controls over and over. I think maybe my servos are just old and crappy. How are you planning to mount your A/C compressor? Are you gonna keep the Datsun towers? (BTW, my "Phantmino" salutation was meant as a subtle yet apparently overly vague way of pointing out that it's jeromio, not jeronimo Seems to be a fairly common but puzzling mistake)

Phantazimo - Inside the brace: The exhaust is pretty close to the firewall. The O2 sensor bung (bottom of the stock manifold) would actually hit the steering shaft (innerside), but, following Lonestar1's advice, I ovaled the holes on the the steering column mount (inside the car) and moved it over about 3/8 of an inch. It's actually still pretty close since I ended up moving the motor forward about 1/2 inch, so, I'll have to do some further massaging here and there. Passenger side is also pretty tight. I've welded 2 1/2 inch dia. extensions onto each manifold (after cutting off their flanges) and had planned to flange them way down low, just at the point when the tubes curve back. But that passenger manifold is really, really hard to wrestle in and out of that space now. I don't think it would be removable with a flange on the end. Much more headscratching.

Phantmino - I didn't use the fusible links - or even the solenoids. My system isn't exactly stock and doesn't exactly work all that well. I swapped a 280 HVAC unit into my 240 - hack job. I would've used the solenoids, but they don't seem to work - 15 or so years of sitting out in a salvage yard. Frozen up. They are meant to work in conjunction with the vacuum reservoir (which in my case was cracked - man I got a screwed up system). Their main purpose seems to be to boost vacuum pressure for the vac servos. I suppose the LS1 will have plenty of vac though, so, it prolly won't be an issue. With my L28, the flaps, etc. did seem to work, but very slowly. The heater valve actuation was rather weak. Here's a diagram provided by FastFrog. It's much more clear than the one in the factory manual: http://240z.jeromio.com/hvac.html

Just went to Autozone and they have a selection of "repair parts" for late model GM fuel lines. Expensive, but I think it'll do the trick. Also, the Camaro fuel filter has one male, freaky-styley end and one normal end female treaded. So, that can be used as another adapter too. I got all the nylon lines with my tank (although one of em has a cut off end). They're all around 12 inches long with female freaky ends on each side. So, I bought up all the freaky 3/8" male ended stuff they had (which wasn't much). One piece is a 12 inch steel section with male ends, so, I figure I can cut that and put flared fittings on the cut ends. They also had the plastic clips for the male ends. I have the stock nylon line that goes to the fuel rail, so I may use that rather than messing with brazing on new fittings. The pressure line has metal (rather than plastic) female fittings and both lines are sheathed in rubber and also have aluminum heat tape around them. It's also all prebent to match up and it just so happens to line up with where my hard lines are. This is looking like it will work out. Oh BTW, the parts counter people insisted they had no such fittings. I talked them into letting me go back and look and I found them. So, don't be dissuaded...

I guess I'm thinking like with that much bang, there'd be parts of the housing, the rotor - whatever - flying variously. Can't just be the escape of whatever air pressure inside the crank case that blew the hood AND the quarter panel - right? I mean, there's no flying debris to be seen, so, maybe there ain't none, but, just seems mysterious...

Just to ber a redundant turd, there are 2 styles and 4 instances of Camaro radiators, V6 and V8. The latter is too wide in either brass or aluminum. The former, the V6 unit, can be had in either Brass or Al. Actually, there's a 3rd unit that has copper runners and metal (brass?) tanks. I have a cheapo brass finned, plastic tanked rad in my car. The Al one was too $$$ for poor-ass me. To be expeditious, just buy the Al, rad from JTR. Their price is fair. Otherwise, get a V6 camaro/firebird rad from the local parts store.

You equal a snarvy bastage, no snake. Der V8 240z is well docked and quite lite. LT1 has hassles with accessories in a Z, so If you wanna drive it to work, be aware of trouble. LS1 is a don't do (you could ask me, but don't bother). But any 350/400 will bolt up straight quick with JTR and a carb. R200 is plenty good. Ujoint half shafts suck though. But, 280ZX turbo CV shafts are a bolt in ala 2 flavors: ZXt comp flange and 25 spline 240 stubs (with some hurt due to thick flanges binding the CVs) or 280Z 26 spline (yes?) and some Ross C adapters (which are thinner and introduce less CV bind). Either way, Indy rear hooks better due to absence of axle twist (wheel lift). You get a nice squat with both wheels doing duty - even with an open diff. High 11 sec is not uncommon. Lower and you're likely to break stuff though. Roll cage is not a bad thing. S&W make a nice one for a Z for less than $200 that will protect bodies and stiffen the frame. Better brakes can be bought from MikeSCCA or RossC (or fabbed self-wise from junkyard parts ala Terry O.)

Wow. That almost looked like some kind of Fast and Furious special effect. The quarter panel actually popped out too. Odd there was no flying debris everyplace.

The vac solenoids etc. are for the HVAC. So, if you're keeping that, you'll wanna retain those. Although, I have a 280Z hvac system and I'm not using the solenoids. Everything else can be ripped out. I even took out the entire wiring harness since I decided to just rewire it (headlights, blinkers, etc.).