jeromio

My self-rebuilt rear calipers would not auto-adjust. The ebrake would eventually stop working After hand adjusting, I did notice that the brakes worked better. Seems crazy to make the normally automatic adjustment of the caliper dependent on the operation of the ebrake. But it wouldn't be the first boneheaded design from Nissan. If you twiddle with the caliper, you can see it moving the piston closer and closer as you move the ebrake lever arm back and forth (like 20-30 times). That's if the thing isn't jammed up. I'm not too happy with my ZX rear calipers.

I seriously doubt they ever put a R200 in the Maxima. It only ever had a L24. I think they had a different rear suspension too, so it's difficult to say how easy it would be to put an R200 in there.

Could be lots of different stuff. One thing to do is poke around under the car. Try jacking it up by the rear arms (be very careful, very, very careful. Did I emphasize that enough?) so that you can turn the wheels and see if the shafts are hitting something - ebrake cable for instance. My parts car R200 was a bit crunchy. I opened it up and discovered that it was full of water. Very rusty. Very much garbage now.

I was sitting this one out, but.... ... I agree that for this solution to work, the strap needs to be one continuous, bent piece of metal. Also, as I recall from Scottie's pics, his strap was thinner metal and was bolted directly to the diff. IMO, Scottie's would work much better since thinner metal strap will have some give in it allowing for some up and down movement but very much limiting it from stock. Correct me if I'm mistaken about Scottie's diff mount mod, but regardless, the one I am describing would work better, would not require welding or depend on extra rubber.

Bored, waiting for code to build, cruising ebay, found this auction It's a giant V12 diesel with 4 turbos!

Are you sure it's the brakes and not the alignment or perhaps faulty tierod ends or some other suspension difficulty? Tire pressure differentials will also cause pulling.

Yeah, but good thing they discovered the problem now rather than after everything started cracking and shifting and generally being unhappy. My crappy garage is pretty much falling over - cracked and disintegrating foundation, rotting joists. Previous owner put a new roof on it (3-4 yrs ago), which I think is either hilarious or poetic - not sure how the roofers were able to crawl around up there without the whole thing falling in. You know what's got me thinking is that magazine ad I've seen that shows the guy working on his Mustang in his garage and he has a pit. Seems musch easier and simpler than a lift and probably cheaper too. Doesn't necessarily make suspension work any easier I suppose. Maybe not a super idea. I'm in a sticky spot because I desperately need a new garage, and need to get one built before my house gets added to the historic district. But I ain't gots the dough.

Don't blame me for emotional distress, just passing on the link.... http://home.attbi.com/~stormseeker6/int/wildrice.htm

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/drivelinemods.htm http://www.usq.edu.au/users/degroot/240z/pages/diffmount.htm http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount.html All of these use rubber or poly - nothing solid and therefore do not allow excessive noise or vibration into the chassis. There's a 3rd alternative (mine's a copy of Simon's) that ScottieGNZ has posted about which is a variation on the JTR diffmount mod. You use a new Nissan diffmount and bolster it with metal strapping.

Hrrmmmm: Starting from: Durham, NC 27705 Arriving at: Fredericksburg, VA Distance: 211.1 miles Approximate Travel Time: 4 hours 55 mins How big a bash did you say?

I got a Summit Ricer catalog in the mail recently and I saw lots of really nice looking strut tower braces for way cheap. None that I saw had the nice K style going for them, but as a regular strut bar, they did look like they could be adapted to work on a Z - especially in the rear.

I think that the most effective form of self policing is simply to ignore posts that appear in the wrong forum. May sound harsh, but it can definately work. You want tranny info and you post your question in the Chevy forum, no one replies - simple. I think that a very key feature that UBB should implement is that until that Junior Member post point is reached (25 posts or whatever), each time you hit the New Topic button, you get a popup window reminding you to post questions in the correct board. The other feature that is there but currently broken, email notification, would help in the situations that Pete describes. Someone posts in the wrong board, the post gets moved, the admin adds a reply stating that the thread was moved to the correct forum and the poster gets an email letting them know what's up - no confusion.

I thought Fairlady broke the front diff crossmember, not his mustache bar? The Simon DeGroot front mount is another alternative: http://www.usq.edu.au/users/degroot/240z/pages/diffmount.htm. I created a slight variation on this by using poly bushings meant for a 280Z trans mount: http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount.html Lots more work than Pete's though.

There's a place in NC that imports Japanese engines too. Jemco? Something with a J. Yep, that's it: http://www.jemco.com/ Anyway, 6K sounds high. 4K sounds pretty nice. I think the Jemco place had similar, sub 4K prices, but they're probably closer (depending on where this other place is located - they don't say. In fact, I couldn't find any contact info whatsoever on that site).

Those are also meant to work with full frame type cars - as in 60s and older. Something like a Datsun with thin, spot welded sheetmetal "frame rails" would require lots of bolstering to have a engine bearing crossmember attached to it. I think you'd end up doing more work than with other solutions.

I would do a search on Fiero motor swaps. Seems like you could re-use alot of that info since it's a similar configuration. I've seen a few sites that documented Fiero->SBC swaps (sorry, no links handy).

I think your third point is the most compelling argument for this solution. Pretty cool that you can get the machining done so easily. I don't have a mill (anymore - dumbass me left all my toys behind and took a "better" job based on salary in what was (2 yrs ago) the booming telecom industry - oops). Don't have any friends who have them either. Welding is easier for me and so every mod seems like a welding job . Keep in mind that you'll have to either get some angled washer pieces made or counter bore the flange to the same angle as your new plate. I'm also a little leary of the 2 gasket situation. As to the trials, you might try milling the necks of a couple header bolts - narrow the shafts near the head, round the bottoms of the heads - as a way to "mount" the header in place while allowing some wigglin'.

I'm very intrigued by this 3 to 2.5 inch idea. I too don't want an overly loud sound. Does the exhaust really cool down that much in that 3 foot section? I've been planning on running 3 inch all the way back. I've been planning on buying a 3 inch muffler from Mac ( http://www.macperformance.com ). They look really well made and the price is very good. There's too many options to consider!!!

Yahoo just turned "Public Folders" into a "Premium Service" (which means they want dollars).

Interesting. Not to be (too much of) an ass, but, they sorta have a "homemade" look to them....

Why is seat number 2 not okay?

Also, If the rear drums are retained, if the stub axle breaks there is a potential for the wheel to fall off. Rear discs should prevent this since the caliper would "lock" the wheel assembly in place.

Mike neglects to specifically mention that he sells such parts . Also, if ya gots the dough (and he'll surely reply to this post soon-like anywayz), Mikelly has some fully adjustable suspension arms he could sell ya. Chassis stiffening? I'm funna make my own braces, but places like MSA and TopEnd sell such parts.

Holy crap. Thanks for the heads up. I just mucked around with the DNS settings (to add http://svt.jeromio.com since I just got a contour svt). I guess I messed something up. I don't have any pictures - I only did a test fitting. I think that at worst, I may have to cut off the rear cup holder (which is meant for non-existent rear seat passengers anyway) if it has to slide back to make the shifter fit. But it'll then butt up against the rear cargo deck, so, there won't need to be any prettying up of the cut off part.

Crap - that Schroth website FAQ was, unfortunately, very enlightening: My Talon seats (which I really like) have integrated headrests. SO! To recap: I'm swapping in an engine. Needed to get fuel/brake lines out of tunnel. This escalates into tearing out/fabbing up the frame rail. This causes bone-head me to burn my belt. Now I need new belts and that leads to the rollbar to mount them to. And NOW I have to get new seats!!!! Crap. I've heard of Schroth and Simpson - who's M&R? If you have any further info on them belts, please email me. I like that price much better.