jeromio

I have info on my LS1 swap on my page (link below).

As far as I know, the charcoal canister is there to filter the HCs out of the fuel vapor. The fuel system typically needs to vent and the unburned HCs would be pure pollution, so the filter is there to trap them. I don't think there's any performance advantage to be achieved by removing the canister.

cool links, thanks...

Wow. Very jealous making. Especially that crazy aggressive timeline.

Fiberglass is going to be less than ideal. It's not as strong. And, as Terry (our resident 'glass expert here) continually points out, fiberglass to metal bonding can only ever be thought of as temporary. Eventually it will separate. Areas such as the floor are not necessarily critically important structurally. But, you may put your foot there and it may become a hole once more. BUT, and this is an important consideration, rust on this cars is like roaches in your house. If you see one or 2 small spots, you more than likely have many more lurking. For instance, that hole in your floor, if it's in the middle part of the floor, then the rail/floor support beneath it is probably full of rust. And the frame rail in front may be rusted out as well. It typically takes a whole bunch of rust action to create a hole - which means that a much larger area of the surrounding metal has also become severely corroded/weakened. Do some poking around with a sharp screwdriver or scratch awl. It can be fixed - it's mostly just labor. And welders are getting cheaper - Lincoln is now selling a $250 "hobby" welder at Home Depot. Great tool to have.

I know that the mount that came with my 4L60E on my LS1 is interlocking. But it's actually easy to see with that one since it's sort of a different design. I would be very surprised if the GM mount was NOT interlocking as it's very easy to do with the simple pressed steel pieces that are used in it's construction. But then, the Datsun unit is not interlocking. You know, they must've just like Mr.K's Nephew work on that aspect of the car. That front diff mount - there is absolutely nothing good to say about it. Oh, I am the other guy who did the DeGroot style mount. I am very happy with it and it is undoubtedly completely bulletproof. It was more difficult to construct though (http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount). This one looks lots easier to fabricate. Although, if there are issues with EBrake cable routing, the DeGroot mount might be a better solution.

I pushed it over as far as I could with the current mounting system. That was meant to be a joke since the thing is just hung by the luggage straps (which I'm glad I didn't remove when I splornked out the well - they were in the way but I left them). In the real mounting situation, it will go over a bit more. Not exactly sure how much. The tank is about 32 inches wide. I was a little worried about the lack of a spare tire. But then, when I removed the spare (for the first time ever), it was totally useless, dry rotted. So, it wasn't doing me any favors by being there. 16.8 gallons should equate to quite the cruising range.

It came off a 99 Camaro (according to the yard anyway). It supposedly holds 16.8 gallons. It has all the elec. stuff for the LS1 integrated with it including the charcoal canister.

It fits pretty nicely: I think I'm gonna add some structure to the rear area first - some heavy tubing for some extra crash proofing. Don't want no Pinto syndrome. I have it in "backwards" - The Camaro uses it flipped around. But this way, not only does it fit in nicely, but the filler stays on the passenger side which equals less work for me.

Definately the right way to go. You end up not even really needing that front crossmember piece anymore either. It really would be key for people to be able to buy these. Maybe work some arrangement with Mike or Ross? (Of course, I don't need one )

What? $400!!! That is BS. Those are fairly universal. You should be able to get one from a salvage yard from most any metric car - doesn't have to be from an old, rare-ish Z. They do serve a valuble purpose beyond merely a warning light. If one circuit fails (ie front or rear), the lack of pressure in that side will cause the switch to close that side off, and in the process, trip the warning light.

Here's some more progress on the rail and lines: Frame Rail Page Had a hell of a time stuffing the lines thru the two holes in the main frame rail. I have some more wrestling to do. I was almost ready to tack the new rail in place, but I got called in to decorate eggs. Oh, extra happy times - I get to remove the driver's side control arm and driveshaft in order to get the lines up in there. There weren't no way to stick them in first, since I had to get them up into the frame rail in the engine bay first. Sigh. You'll notice from the updated pix that I got a little squeemish and put much bolstering inside the rail to protect the lines. Especially in the forward part, just before it slants up to the strut rod mount. There I used 2 pieces of railing channel (Used for wrought-iron-style railings) welded together for an extra super uncrushable support since that's the area most likely to get abused by a jack. I used lots of rubber hose everywhere to prevent rubbing damage too.

But, you do have a large IC and a more efficient centrifigal "blower" vs the roots type that this car has. ( you like how I said that as if I had any idea what I'm talking about?)

Well, now I am interested in this discussion. I'm putting in a A4 initially, because I am too poor to afford a T56 right now. I currently have 4.11 in the car. I figured I'd leave the 4.11 in there initially, but plan to drop in the 3.54 since I presume that with the torque of the LS1, the light weight of the 240 and the low gears, I'll be cording them rear tires quick fast. But, I definately plan on getting a T56 asap. So, it sounds like I should hang on to the 4.11, or possibly not even pull it out. Seems like there was other discussion here about people not even using 1st gear with the T56 though. Looks like that trans has ratios that are just too wide for real world use???

Control arms for a Chevy V8? Odd.... Perhaps you meant for this to go in the Suspension forum?

Sharp. Those 17X9s don't rub in the front? My 17X8s are pretty close at full lock. What kind of tires are those, Kumho's (kuhmo, khumo - H is in there someplace)?

Well, I done did it. I took an essentially rust free frame rail (floor support) and hacked it apart. It was beat to crap - obviously several previous "mechanics" thought you could put a jack under the thing. So, here's what it looked like inside: I couldn't resist adding a few beads up in there. I didn't take a picture of the hideous hole I put in the "middle" metal. I bolstered the hole with a bead which should also make for a nice, roundish, unsharp rim for the lines to pass thru. Of course, the lines will have rubber sheathing where ever they contact other surfaces (within reason). I did hit this whole area with a wire brush and rust converting primer. Here's the new rail before getting bent up. The lines are in there just for show (straightening spooled lines is a huge pain BTW): This is made from 14ga mild steel. It is primed - not sure how much of that will remain un-burned after welding. There's also a similarly ugly, beaded hole at the engine compartment (top) side of the rail for the lines to exit. The other remaining challenge is putting a hole in the sub-frame area of the rail (it will be one piece, going from strut rod mount all the way to rear sub frame). And then there's the wrestling with lines, bending and coaxing them from A to B. Not looking forward to that. But, when I am done, the fuel, return and rear brake lines will be all nice and safe and hidden away. The only real worry I have is someone jacking up the car by this new rail. The rail on the passenger side is also 14ga and has held up very well over the past year or so. I did apparently scrump on a speed bump once or twice (car was real low when it had the 14inch wheels), so it has some dents and scrapes, but the structure is completely in tact. BTW, I will also be doing the subframe connector dealio ot the passneger side.

Perhaps I'm living in a world of blissful ignorance, but I've welded cast iron manifolds (and other items) several times using my mig welder. For instance, the manifold on my truck was totally shot - the flange was broken off and the entire bottom section of it had corroded away to nothing. I ground away the goobered parts and then welded it up. I did weld over about a 5 inch swath to make sure that things annealed and would be less likely to crack. It's held up now for about 5 months.

That diffmount design sounds very intriguing, Pete. I'm anxious to see the pictures. I think my DeGroot mount is bullet-proof, but it sounds like this U mount might be easier to construct. As to the Nissan design, completely stupid. I mean, it's design incorporates a freaking rubber band!

Here's the link to Owen's write up: http://www.v8zcar.com/s30z/turnsigassy.htm Apparently 87 Maxima or Stanza switchgear will bolt up to the Z column. Problem I'm having is locating the 87 Maxima or Stanza parts....

I'm now entering full project creep mode. This thing will never get back on the road. Specifically, I have decided not to route fuel lines in the tunnel. So that means that I may as well re-route the rear brake line. It also means that I need to go ahead and replace the bent up driver's side frame rail (floor support) since it's - Not going to protect the lines in its current state. - Will need to be replaced at some point anyway. - I'd have to undo and then redo the lines when I do replace it since the lines will be right next to it. Welding near fuel lines is too much exceitement for me. So, of course I am going to do sub-frame connectors on both sides "while I'm at it". God I could just kick myself. Anyway, on to the actual topic: what's the best way to route the lines? Should they go on the inner side, or on the outside? Or, should they actually go Inside the new rail? I like the inside idea because the lines will be completely out of the wa and totally protected. I could add drilled cross blocks at a couple points that would have plastic or rubber grommits. The problem is that the lines have to enter and exit at some point(s). That involves drilling holes in the frame and then strengthening the entry points, most likely with sections of pipe or else washers welded around the holes. And although it would be very cool for the fuel lines to poke up out of the frame right where they need to go, shielded from heat and so forth, routing them thru that area will be tough. I don't plan on replacing the entire frame rail, just the part from the strut rod mount back. So I'll have to drill a big hole thru the bulk head metal aft of the strut rod mount and then line that hole with rubber or something and I imagine it will be hard since that's a tiny 2.5 inch wide space. My second choice is to route the lines on the outside of the rail and then poke them up thru a hole in the sheet metal just under where the brake booster sits. I'm having a hard time deciding though. Any opinions?

Very odd. You have the "correct" lower transverse link (short piece that is curved, right behind the diff cover). But you're mustache bar is flipped the wrong way. The ring ends of the mustache bar should be forward. The mustache bar should almost touch the 2 uprights, which will be in front of it. The R200 bar is different because it has a slight curve to it. This pushes the diff forward about 1/2 inch. The R180 bar is straight. It is flipped the "wrong" way. As blueoval mentions the early cars had the diff mounted in an odd position too far forward. I think I'm confusing even myself with this supposed explanation. I have pics here: http://240z.jeromio.com/images/411rear

I agree with Pete on the coilovers. A complete coilover package is really not much more expensive than new springs. But you can choose from way more rates and ride height is completely adjustable. Most setups retain the original isolator, so it's no more or less harsh than stock. As to the motor stuff, IMO, the equivalent costing/hp producing turbo motor will be much more streetable than the high compression N/A motor. Modern high comp. motors depend on sophisticated EFI for streetability on pump gas. Norm has certainly done amazing, low budget things with his N/A carbed motor, but I doubt his car is as easy to drive in traffic as an EFI L28 turbo.

My first reaction is to say that it would be possible, but very likely not worth it. You'd need to be able to mount all the same sensors - including the knock sensor, to the plain 350. I think you could get the MAF, TB, coilpacks, ECM, injectors and sensors, used, for about $1000. That gets close to the cost of the aftermarket systems. But you'd need to add the laptop cables and LS1edit software for another $500. So, in the end, something like the new Holley system or SDS would be less $ and much easier to implement.

I haven't had any problems with the 15/16 inch relocation. Like I say on my site, I found some information that suggested 1 inch, so I see no reason to think 15/16 won't be just fine - especially on a lowered car. I did move mine out by 1/4 inch at the same time though, which probably is why I didn't have as much trouble with my arms. I just cut little triangles out of the ends and then hammered down the sheet metal on each arm. BTW, the 1/4 inch out really increases negative camber. Probably too much for a street car. I'm gonna end up having to get some adjustable arms to dial it back a bit (how's that for turning lemons into beer?).