jeromio

I got an R200 from a 75 (which is a guess) 280Z and it had the square pinion flange. Won't work with the adapter. I also got an R200 from an 85 200SX turbo which does have the round flange that works with the JTR Neapco adapter. Perhaps 280ZXs have the same round flange...?

Yeah, except that ljohnson was talking about his car.... ( Well, someone had to pile it on)

I'll play. My guess is that it's an R230 limited slip. It's not a regular R200 because the case is much different - too short and the mounting ears stick out more and there are only 2 of them. I say LSD only because it has a finned cover.

I never would've imagined anyone replacing stock stuff, so, I'm not sure why I kept the stuff, but, I think I do still have all of it. The rotors (do I still have those?) would likely need to be turned. But everything was working when I took it off the car about a year ago. May still even have pads. If you're interested, email me. I wouldn't need anything beyond shipping charges and some incentive to clean the stuff off and box it up...

Wow. That guy got a heck of a car for less than $13K.

You might want to do a search here on John's cars before you proceed....

Well, the install of the LS1 is not so straight-forward. There's no JTR kit for instance. You can use modified "setback plates" (much longer), and secure them to the strut rod mount, which is what LoneStar1 did (pics of his car in Member's Rides). But you'll then have to work out how to mount accessories. I have some info on my site. And I will be publishing some actual measurements at some point. But, the route I took involves some fabrication and some tinkering.

Get a scratch awl or a sharp phillips screwdriver. Lift up the carpeting, scratch and poke hard. On my car, I could easily poke a hole thru the rusty metal. Same with the area under the battery tray. I searched and searched and I couldn't find any cars when I looked. So, even though my car was rusty, I bought it anyway and fixed the rust (replaced with 14ga). It was a pain in the ass to be sure, but, I wanted a Z car, so.....

The ZXt CV half shaft swap is really easy. Definately a bolt in DIY job. You can do as I have done and just grab the companion flanges with the shafts, swap the dust shields over (they gots to be spot welded to the ZX flanges) and create your own seal. Or, and I don't think anyone has done this, but I don't see why it wouldn't work, get Ross's adapters, and weld your 240 companion flanges to them. Yes, the whole idea is to use those adapters with the 280stubs that have the 2 extra splines, but the bolt surface (rectangle) part is the same for 240 and 280 flanges, right? Anyway, that eliminates the need for the seal voodoo, the dust shield swapping and gives you a sconch more room for the shafts (apparently the hybrid flange is shorte than the ZX flange). Plus, you could then have the option of getting rebuilt shafts from the local parts store (or carparts.com), and just pay the core, since you wouldn't have to worry about getting the ZXt flange. I paid $125 for my shafts and the flanges, but I also got the rear calipers too. I think new shafts are like $90 plus core charge each. Took like one saturday to do the work.

Try a search on welder in Misc. Tech or maybe Non Tech. This has been discussed before and there are a few threads with lots of info and opinions.

Hey - off topic, but I really like your lower valence/spoiler. Where'd you get that piece? Those wheels are really nice. Do you have any pics of the brakes w/out wheel mounted?

Save yerself some bucks: http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm

I don't think the heat from the burning out of the rubber is anywhere near hot enough to cause any tempering of the mustache bar. Not mentioned here, and probably because it's obvious, but Don't remove the bushing sleeves from the mustache bar. They are the only sleeves that stay when replacing bushings.

I don't see why a solid front mount/"soft" rear mount would cause your diff to break. For example, hypothetically if you unbolt the mustache bar, you're still going to be able to move the diff up and down and probably rotate it it side to side and axially. That front mount may be "solid", but there's still some give in the system. That diff is a whole lot stiffer and sturdier than the sheetmetal structure that it attaches to.

I dunno if this will help you, but: I had an L28 with an L24 flywheel and clutch from a 4spd that I used with a ZX 5 speed. I had to use the 4spd clutch fork since I used the 4spd slave cylinder. It all worked very well, but then the clutch springs wore out prematurely. Everything else about that (probably old - on the car when I bought it) clutch and pressure plate looked fine. The throwout bearing was pretty gunky, but the disc looked like it had alot of life left in it. Springs were just shot I guess. It had started to rattle and shifting got rougher and rougher until it just didn't work anymore. I then installed a ZX clutch. But visually, both clutches looked identical to me (except for the one being shiny and new). I don't know what if any differences there are betwixt the various clutch/flywheel setups.

Nice. I'm jealous. I was really thinking about doing this swap. At one point I actually made an offer on a donor Supra. Looks really nice in there. No steering interference at all. Those motor mounts look pretty straight forward too. Damn. I've been wasting all this time moving my engine half a degree one way, half an inch another. Ugh. That Wolf3D can't have been very friendly to the wallet though, eh? As to the shifter thing, hell I had to cut metal out of the tunnel when I swapped in a ZX 5spd on my L28. Are you using an NA box or the turbo one? How does the trans mount work out, full custom or modified stock?

A picture of that car was posted a few months back. Here's a link to that thread: http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=9&t=000455&p=

How 'bout this: (http://www.roadraceengineering.com/exhaustparts.htm) They sell it in a 4 inch dia. by 12 inch long (3 inch inlet/outlet). Seems like there should be enough room for that. It's about $10 cheaper than the Dynomax bullet which is also about 5 inches longer.

That's what I thought. I paid $5 for a plastic box from a 280 in excellent shape. Except that it won't work with the 240 dash. I have pondered cutting it up to make it work, but, I think it would be easier to just make a sheet metal one.

Pictures would be really helpful, thanks. Are you running a resonator? I've been looking at the 4 inch diameter ones, Spintech, etc. Wondering if there's room in the tunnel for one. I'll be running 2.5 Y'd to 3 inch. Undecided on muffler, but from all the posts here it seems like a resonator is key for reducing droning.

Yes but how much of the blame for that poor launch is the power curve of the engine? Perhaps the higher torque of the Buick motor will lower those 60 times quite alot...?

Here is one of the results of a search using r200 r180 as the search terms: http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=000249&p= There were a couple of other results from that search that also might be helpful.

I guess this is mostly a question for Lonestar1, but anyone who has a electronic A4 might be able to help. The shifter linkage stuff is really in the way of the exhaust on the driver's side. Not only does the shifter arm point downwards, but the cable bracket is really large and hangs down right where the exhaust needs to go. Routing the 2.5 inch tubing below this mess is not an option - I'd have only an inch of ground clearance. So, It seems like I can move that bracket so that it's above the pan, instead of below it. I'm then gonna have to really beat the crap out of the tunnel to make room. I had to wack about a 1/2 inch just to let the thing fit in its normal, low position. Perhaps I could use some other cable arrangment to go with this Camaro shifter? One that doesn't require fat-assed brackets. Anyone have any ideas? The other downer of all this is that I don't plan on having this A4 in there for very long. I'm gonna put in a T56 as soon as I can afford one...

There are 3 kinds R200 CV half shafts that I am aware of: The 200SX units, which are waaay too long, the 300ZX half shafts, also waaay too long, and the 280ZX Turbo half shafts, which are only a little bit too long. (Oh, I guess there's also the 1988 300ZX turbo Limited shafts that go with the viscous diff). The shafts from a 280ZX turbo don't require any modification. You can either use these with their corresponding companion flanges and 240Z stub axles (and a custom seal), or with 280Z stub axles, and Ross's adapters (standard seal). The latter is a better way to go because the Ross/Scottie custom flange is shorter than the ZXt flange. Plus, you don't gots to mess with seals.

Damn, those are cool as hell. My guess is they're cold formed from a steel tube - picture a section of 10 inch diameter tubing cut about 16 inches long. This gets stuck into a machine that mashes it - forcing outer edges to fold inward until they meet each other. Then the inside gets seem welded, probably by the same machine. That's just a guess though. I can see a seem weld inside, and nothing outside, so, it makes sense. And that place sells 14ga mandrel bends! Beefy. Tight radii too - 4". I wonder if it's worth it to use such heavy material for an exhaust. 16ga is probably plenty tough.