Mudge

Sure, if you can find them. The part number was even posted for the correct bracket, however the dealer wont have it, unless you are somehow very lucky. IIRC there is only one year bracket that fits, so finding it in a junkyard is going to take you quite awhile, and with that you may as well just make or buy the bracket.

Cast heads, icky Some V8 guys have actually "improved" front/rear weight distro over the L6, that block is LONG.

If people are bidding on it, "then it is reasonable." Is that your rear?

Ruin what balance? Just because a car is light doesn't have to mean it shouldn't ever see horsepower, however it should be stiffened up if you want to put in a torquer. If you were implying weight distribution, the V engine sits further back, and the 5.0L Ford is lighter than the L6 according to people who have done the swap. A shortblock 2.8L F54 with internals and no flywheel is near 230 pounds, weighed it myself. With heads/intake/carbs etc, it does add up. I dont know the accuracy of this next measurement, but an L6 with manual trans was reported as 600 pounds.

280Z/ZX are basically the same, mounts and manifolds are compatible since both are FI and the head design is largely the same. There are round port and square exaust port heads to choose from that support FI. The difference between the years that is obvious are the blocks, F54 in the ZX/ZXT cars which is stronger than the earlier block, for a daily driven low output NA car I wouldn't say that matters, other than a newer engine may well have less miles on it and last longer, higher compression = less blowby/more power/better MPG.

http://www.lt1intake.com or a machine shop can work the intake for a rear distributor, but you'd need to find some way to make certain they'd know the dimensions otherwise it wont line up, so if you have the dough I might just go to someone who does it already, like the URL above.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292

Shoot, I likewise appreciate all the help I have gotten from the members of the site, experience counts in a BIG way as far as avoiding mistakes, and getting the job done faster/cheaper and hopefully right the first time. Len and his buddy stayed until around 4AM to help finish the swap. I have some pix of the swap in the gallery, as well as the wiring harness as it sits on my couch right now, basically as pulled. I didn't get to work on it tonight and I have to get up in 8 hours, so this will be a 3 day swap (provided tomorow goes well time wise). Things would have went faster if I had more metric stuff, doh http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_personal.php?user_id=3098

You will power them with your stock harness, you splice a few lines everything else you dont touch. Imagine if you were putting in a V8, you dont pull out a Camaro wiring harness for the brake lights, you only need to support the driveline and whatever it requires to make it tick.

Found the part I needed, going to use 3/8" line for the return.

You wont be using any of that, nor will you end up using the stock gauge stuff, but do NOT cut anything from the dash area until you have the harness out, unless you know for certain you dont need it, like the power window motors etc Everything going to the back of the car in the passenger floorboard area can go, there is a very thick patch of cabling there to cut free. Things that are hooked up to fuses relays I would keep. Since I am not done with my setup I will stop there, I have seen only a little bit out there on wiring stuff. Basically you have to pull it, and figure out from there what you need. I am going to shave down my harness mostly due to weight/size, otherwise you could carry over the whole thing and only use what you want, but it would also be more confusing that way.

Randy, I know, but I can't have a 75 tank by tonight. Brad, the stock N42 went yesterday, you and I both took a loss on our deals, I dont know what the future holds head wise, right now I am just concerned with getting the car running and reliable. Wiring SUCKS, I have what seems like 30 pounds of wiring if not more, I had to cut one relay box to get it out of the firewall so I have about 40 wires to solder.

Kragens dude says they close at 8, 6.5 hours to go.

I need to do the return line today, and am going to use the drain plug on the bottom of the 240 tank. Does anyone know the fitting size, so I can try to dig something up? Parts store closes in 4 hours, if nobody knows (tried searching, can't find specs) I'll hopefully figure it out. I am using the stock 240 tank for now, yes.

There is a certain crossdressing buddy of Len's who was telling me about a 980 pound car with 300 HP that he was AutoXing.

Hot expanded air = fast air The only issue with heat is you need to keep it down obviously to not destroy the turbo, if your running very hot though then I'm going to guess your lean or the timing is off.

Power window connectors wont matter, I have an 82 turbo engine that got transplanted into the 240 yesterday, but I dont have the wiring done yet as I just woke up.

Ramen tastes good, but man it is a killer with sodium and fat levels. I eat alot of turkey burgers right now but that too puts my sodium rather high, so I make up the rest of my protein intake with whey and milk. I was at a 200% sodium intake level previously, although I'm heavier than the 170 pound college student they used to conduct the study with.

ZX --> ZXT, didn't know they were close enough in volume.

What is alot? I still have 500 NA HP in the back of my mind, maybe someday.

I hope you didn't want the dash Len

I had a 69 Firebird 400, but I also want a 68. 67s are nice too, but the rear is a single leaf setup (can be changed), and the first year anything generally has some bugs to work out. The vent window can also be viewed as neat, or a problem (other than theft).

First gen Camaros give me a woody, good chance I will replace my 94 Z28 with one within 6-12 months.

I dont think your fuel pump would be up to snuff volume wise but I could be absolutely wrong.

Looks like a 240SX/Probe hybrid.