Mudge

How about tbagginfreak.com ?

Yep, in the BMW vs Integra series the tegs supposedly do better in the rain.

They seem to go for $25 here, but $50 is alot less than a $400 intercooler, I have no idea what the market would be like in your area. They also go on eBay regularly for $20-$40.

I got mine for $10, not exactly a huge waste of money - although the wiring if your car is FI will be different, otherwise there aren't many differences.

Anyone know which wires where, trigger the fuel pump? I am wiring a new relay, but if I can use the stock triggering that would be nice. I believe its two thick green wires, I will try to find them on the harness.

I think I may actually fire it up today, engine turns over and I have power to lights again.

CamaroZ28.com over 30k members. For parts Jason Cromer: 1-877-726-8295 in Florida (dealership) has good pricing and no rippoff shipping, just call before 5PM Florida time on a weekday and ask for him by name.

I dont know about the early cars (?) but my 73, with steel lines and stock brakes front/rear grabs like a mother. Step on the brakes hard and they will just lock up the tires.

Thanks for the help Kito!

Found the linkage, need to find whatever plate that is at the top/rear. http://rick.thebowersplace.com/webstuff/Engine/Engine1.JPG

I need a picture or text layout of what wires go where, on the alternator, if you have FI that will help me since this is a turbo engine in a 240Z... One slide single conductor on connector goes to P on the alternator, I dont have this, where does it go to on the harness? BAT terminal on the alternator, not sure where this goes, should I look for a black wire or a red one? There are a couple candidates that are black, or white/red stripe, but no solid red stuff. I'm thinking that I need the white/red stripe wire. There are two more leads that are I think marked E, but my brain is fading already. Then there is a two prong connector which thankfully I do have, on both the stock and new harness. ------ I am fairly certain I have the starter wiring correct at this time. No headlights come on and I assume this is maybe due to the alternator looking at how the wiring harness works, but I'm really not sure as newer cars dont care about the alt being hooked up for lights. I will have to check my fuses if fixing that doesn't help. Also, if anyone has an FI car if there is a good pic of the throttle actuation/linkage that would be nice, I can't find anything yet that is close enough for me to see how it works, I didn't study it before hand or take pictures, and I only have one peice that looks like it belongs there but am not sure how the whole thing works. This being such a rush job I didn't think things through terribly well on a couple points, oops.

Goes to show you the industry isn't always what its cracked up to be, even if someone says they are happy with a product sometimes its crap (ala head porting).

Figured ground would ground somewhere, but there are two end terminals for bolt down. I will keep looking. Positive runs to starter, any idea which side or does it not matter? Do you have a diagram of the alternator side or picture? After this I'm about home free. I appear to be missing one plug (prong) that goes into the alt which is mostly what I'm worried about, I think the rest of the wiring is correct but not positive, and of course I'd rather not fry something. I should have taken pix before hand, somehow didn't occur to me.

Does anyone have a picture of what the wiring to the starter solenoid looks like? So close, yet so damn far.

I figured out which is which, black with yellow stripe is ground. Now, anyone know where they go to on the chassis/engine?

Just make damn sure it is out of the way of the underside like Dan's, my twice pipes made it impossible to jack up the car, without twisting the body OR unhooking the muffler and bracketry.

Someone with an 80s ZXT car, maybe even ZX wiring is similar... I am trying to figure out which battery posts go where. One of them is bare, with what looks like a ground connection and then connects to something else, maybe the starter? Then there is another terminal set with a small box on one end, with red green and black wires, which is a connection spot for about 3 different connectors on the harness. I am assuming this goes to the positive lead on the battery but am not sure, everything is black as far as terminal covers so nothing is obvious as a modern car would be, and should have been then. There is no red on any of the posts in other words.

If you are talking about CV jointed half shafts which I think you are, then you need to use adapters. I assume this because the ZXT has CV jointed half shafts, so I figure you are talking about the same thing. As for the booster, most people seem to want it, but some race with no booster at all, so it is a personal preference thing on braking assist power.

They make only front wheel drive style offset wheels so far as I know.

I dont know what the stock sizes are, I'm using 3/8" for the feed on the turbo convert.

You can use any fuel filter that is for FI pressure and fits the fuel line size your going to use, could be a VW Rabbit if you want.

I didn't even notice the T Baggin moniker, nasty! LoL

I agree with John, not a good idea. Plus with the long friggin L6 head, it wouldn't be good for it regardless.

If he is seeing 128-130 (Gtech should be off by a couple), then he should see a 10.4-10.5 with slicks, if he's an honest second slower though then it sounds like he should see low 10s, but it is Gtech after all. Cars with hook hit 10.8@130, 10.7@133 etc

Cheezfrog LoL, yes the video was cool. I would be very supprised to see a 10 second Civic.